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Nightmare Rock

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Summary

Mostly dry in the rain

Access issues inherited from Squamish

There are occasional crags that are on private land (and closed) -- but generally climbing is well accepted and welcomed at the various crags and areas around Squamish.

Approach

Walk north from the parking lot along the highway (there is a barricade there from the cars). There will be a massive roof visible from the road, the best entrance into the forest is there behind the road sign which leads up to the Road Runner area and then traverses right to the main crag

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Routes

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FA: Jim Sandford

FA: Marc Bourdon

FA: Dave Nicol & Eric Weinstein

Boulder up the short arete right of Hypertension

FA: Andrew Boyd

Mixed bolts and gear, furthest left route and climbs up a right facing corner past some old bolts

FA: John Howe

Mixed bolts and gear

FA: John Howe

Mixed bolts and gear

FA: John Howe

Mixed bolts and gear

FA: John Howe

FA: Rob Rohn & Tom Gibson

Mixed bolts and gear

FA: John Howe

Climb up the flake using the right side. You'll soon see why it was called Barn Door. Watch out for decking!

FA: John Howe

Mixed bolts and gear

Mixed bolts and gear

Finish at the rap station under the roof. Stays dry in the rain

Mixed bolts and gear. Climb the slab up to the rap station and traverse right under the roof

A direct start to Big Daddy Overhang.

FA: Sonnie Trotter, 2010

Stays dry in the rain. Climb the crack on the face of the big roof

FA: Andrew Boyd

FA: Kevin McLane

FA: Kevin McLane

Opposite NR.

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Marc Bourdon

Date: 2022

ISBN: 9781777147129

Your trusty guide through more than 3500 boulder problems scattered around Squamish and the surrounding area. Containing an extensive history of Squamish bouldering, info about planning a trip, as well as countless colour photos, maps and infographics, this guide provides the details for navigating one of North America's top bouldering destinations. It includes a comprehensive list of problems for when you're climbing by yourself, a new Top 100 list featuring boulders from V0 through V14, and even the infamous list of the Squamish 7 Terrors.

Author(s): Kevin McLane & Andrew Boyd

Date: 2018

ISBN: 9780986519147

A definitive guidebook describing the rock climbing found at Squamish, near Vancouver, covering both single pitch routes, and the huge multi-pitch routes up the face of the infamous Chief face.

Author(s): Rich Wheater

Date: 2015

ISBN: 978-0-9877796-5-6

With 300 routes, 600 boulder problems and a handful of fine alpine objectives, Vancouver Rock Climbing provides comprehensive coverage of the diverse climbing scene around Vancouver, Canada.

  • Provides detailed coverage of Howe Sound, Caulfeild Sea Cliffs, Cypress Falls Park, Cypress Mountain, Grouse Mountain, Lynn Valley and Deep Cove
  • Includes full-color images and maps, descriptions of conditions and approach notes for each climbing area
  • Each climb description tells you what gear to use, how many bolts there are, a difficulty rating, the pitch length and where to start and end

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Mon 29 May
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