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Undervejsvæggen

  • Grade context: FR
  • Ascents: 35
  • Aka: Road Wall

Seasonality

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Description

The big wall in front when you reach the bottom of the quarry, Upt o 40m of climbing! Several multipitch routes on this wall partly with anchors midway. So 2 pitch climbs or climb in one go and take care of rope drag. South facing, it can get hot on a summer day.

Access issues inherited from Moseløkken Stenbrud

Beware that this is an active quarry. It's open for climbing any day after 7pm and all day in the weekends/ holidays.

Ethic inherited from Moseløkken Stenbrud

Dont leave trash. If you come to climb out of scheduled hours (before 7pm on a weekday), check out if there is any activity, before you go into the quarry (they do use dynamite and big machines in there).

Routes

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Grade Route

Route descriptions for the new routes at rockclimbing.dk not very precise. Feel free to correct!

The route is completely flat. On Undervejsvæggen just right for the stairs up to Store Gumpas. The route is mainly layback on large holds. The route can be climbed as 3 rope lengths. The last rope length is a short steep dihedral, but instead of taking the dihedral you can...

FA: Peter Harremoës & Stefan Jacobsen, 19 Jun 2020

Right of the stairs to Store Gumbas on a slightly overhanging wall. Name written on the wall.

FA: Niels Gudmand Christiansen, Aug 2019

The 2nd route in the sligtly overhanging wall. Name written on the wall.

FA: Malthe Qvistgaard & Erling Strauss, Aug 2019

FA: Malthe Qvistgaard & Erling Strauss, Aug 2019

The route follows a clear line left of "Kundskabens Træ". The route starts through a roof and continues up past another roof to the shelf where "Kundskabens Træ" has a stand.

Set: Peter Harremoës, 2019

The route goes through a dihedral from the Genåbningshylden up through a dihedral to an anchor under a large tree.

FA: Peter Harremoës & Karen Bülow-Olsen, 31 Jul 2020

The route runs on the left side of the Undervejsvæggen and starts on a large shelf, from where it goes up through a marked dihedral to the top of the wall.

FA: Lars Brix & Laust Højmark, 14 Jun 2020

1 6b+ 20m
2 6b+ 15m

8/2022: First pitch overgrown, better climbSoltrappen to the ledge.

FA: Laust Højmark & Jonathan Dahl Jørgensen, 15 Aug 2016

FA: Peter Harremoës & Laust Højmark, 22 Aug 2016

FA: Stefan Jacobsen & Annette Vilen, 10 Aug 2014

FA: Simon Altschuler & Thore Jürgensen, Aug 2015

FA: Jesper Bentsen, 9 Aug 2015

Without ldge in the middle 6c.

FA: Nea Herford, 8 Aug 2014

Without the last 2 meters (extra anchor) 6a.

FA: Annette Vilen & Peter Harremoës, 10 Aug 2014

7c? Mens final Bornholm Rock Masters 2014.

Without the last 2m 5b.

FA: Peter Harremoës & Stefan Jacobsen, 6 Sep 2014

Runout between 2nd and 3rd bolt.

FA: Alma, 25 Aug 2015

FA: Niels-Jørgen Hvidbjerg, Aug 2014

FA: Margrethe Langhoff Thuesen, 4 Aug 2017

FA: Peter Harremoës & Stefan Jacobsen, 5 May 2019

Used to be 7a+, after a hold broke harder (7b?). You can also climb up the fixed rope to reach the upper pitches.

FA: Jens-Jacon Nilsen, 2011

FA: Jens-Jacob Nilsen, 2011

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Karsten Kurz

Date: 2020

ISBN: 9783981951561

This is a comprehensive guidebook describing the rock climbing and bouldering found on the island of Bornholm, covering over 750 routes and boulder problems across a wide range of grades and styles.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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