A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.
Warning
Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.
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Usage policy
Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
vilda_hkvdf Richard Schneider Kai R. Elmo David M. Felix Ollie Arnold Player Two Simon Oli
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1. Lokomotive-Esse 21 in Cliff
- 2. Index by grade
1. Lokomotive-Esse 21 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 50.965926, 14.084452
- Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
- No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake. For climbability an extra model was developed.. CHECK IT at unclear conditions.
- No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
- no chalk, no pof
- Sign the summit register.
- Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
- Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
- Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.
access issues
Das Klettern ist in der Sächsischen Schweiz nur nach den "Sächsischen Kletterregeln" gestattet.
Dementsprechend darf nur an genehmigten Felsen geklettert werden. An allen anderen Felsformationen besteht Kletterverbot.
Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at DAV Sachsen or current list of climbing bans / aktuelle Sperrungsliste.
descent notes
Abseile 23m
ethic
You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★★ Überfall
Vom "Dom" über den "Kesselgrat" (2 Nachholeringe) zur Pfeife. Überfall zur "Esse". Rechts queren und Riss in Südwestwand zG. FA: Albert Kunze, O. Perry-Smith & H. Simon, 1903 | V | 25m | |||||
2 | ★★★ Pfeifenkante | VIIb | 1 | |||||
3 |
★★ Toter Riss
Wie "Nördlicher Pfeifenkamin" am "Dom" zur Einschartung. Nach links und Handriss (R), oben nach links und Nordkante zG. FA: Arno Sieber & O. Bruchholz, 1916 | VIIc | 1 | |||||
4 |
★★★ Toter Riss Erwähnung
Nach dem R oben rechtshaltend Rissspur zG. | VIIc | 23m, 1 | |||||
5 |
★ Nordbahnhof
AF VIIIb FA: Joachim Friedrich & Gunter Hommel, 1997 | VIIIc | 3 | |||||
6 |
Heißer Sommer
with support VIIIb, VIIIc | IXa | 2 | |||||
7 | Nordostwand | VIIIa | 2 | |||||
8 |
!Todesbeginn
FA: Jürgen Höfer & Joachim Friedrich, 1997 | Xa | 4 | |||||
9 |
Wechselbalg
FA: Thomas Willenberg, 1997 | XIc | 3 | |||||
10 |
★★ Milder Winter
AF IXc FA: Bernd Arnold, G. Müller & G. Lamm, 1983 | Xa | 3 | |||||
|
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
11 |
★★ Lammriss
FA: Oliver Perry-Smith & R. Fehrmann, 1905 | VI | 24m | |||||
12 |
★ Lammriss Variante
FA: Oliver Perry-Smith, 1906 | V | 24m | |||||
13 |
Lammriss Variante Erwähnung
Von der kleinen Platte linkshaltend und linksgeneigten Handriss zu Band. | VI | 24m | |||||
14 |
★★ Lammi
AF VIIa | VIIb | 24m, 1 | |||||
15 |
★ Südkante Originaleinstieg
Von Band in Höhe der Untermauerung (SW) in kleiner Verschneidung zu Band. Weiter rechts queren zur Südkante. Diese (nR) zG. | VI | 25m, 1 | |||||
16 |
★★ Südkante Heute meist
"Lammriss Variante" zu Band und nach links zur Südkante. Diese (nR) zG. | VI | 25m, 1 | |||||
17 | ★ Heizer | IXb | 3 | |||||
18 |
★★ Südwestwand Originaleinstieg
with support VIIc. "Südkante Originaleinstieg" zu Band... FA: Gerd Schuster, W. Schuster, S. Kliche, H. Mrosek & H. Müller, 1947 | VIIIa | 27m, 3 | |||||
19 |
★★★ Südwestwand Heute meist
with support VIIc. "Lammriss Variante" zu Band und linksansteigend (1.R "Heizer") zum 1.R. | VIIIa | 27m, 4 | |||||
20 |
★ Verbindungsvariante
with support VIIc | VIIIa | 2 | |||||
21 |
Saxonia
with support VIIb | VIIIa | 3 |
2. Index by grade
Grade | Stars | Name | Style | Pop | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
V | ★ | Lammriss Variante | 24m | ||
★★★ | Überfall | 25m | |||
VI | ★★ | Lammriss | 24m | ||
Lammriss Variante Erwähnung | 24m | ||||
★★ | Südkante Heute meist | 25m, 1 | |||
★ | Südkante Originaleinstieg | 25m, 1 | |||
VIIb | ★★ | Lammi | 24m, 1 | ||
★★★ | Pfeifenkante | 1 | |||
VIIc | ★★ | Toter Riss | 1 | ||
★★★ | Toter Riss Erwähnung | 23m, 1 | |||
VIIIa | Nordostwand | 2 | |||
Saxonia | 3 | ||||
★★★ | Südwestwand Heute meist | 27m, 4 | |||
★★ | Südwestwand Originaleinstieg | 27m, 3 | |||
★ | Verbindungsvariante | 2 | |||
VIIIc | ★ | Nordbahnhof | 3 | ||
IXa | Heißer Sommer | 2 | |||
IXb | ★ | Heizer | 3 | ||
Xa | !Todesbeginn | 4 | |||
★★ | Milder Winter | 3 | |||
XIc | Wechselbalg | 3 |