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Lokomotive-Esse Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

vilda_hkvdf Richard Schneider Kai R. David M. Felix Ollie Arnold Player Two Simon Oli

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Lokomotive-Esse 21 routes in Cliff

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 50.965926, 14.084452

access issues

Das Klettern ist in der Sächsischen Schweiz nur nach den "Sächsischen Kletterregeln" gestattet.

Dementsprechend darf nur an genehmigten Felsen geklettert werden. An allen anderen Felsformationen besteht Kletterverbot.

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at DAV Sachsen or current list of climbing bans / aktuelle Sperrungsliste.

inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

descent notes

Abseile 23m

ethic

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake. For climbability an extra model was developed.. CHECK IT at unclear conditions.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.
inherited from Sächsische Schweiz
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Überfall

Vom "Dom" über den "Kesselgrat" (2 Nachholeringe) zur Pfeife. Überfall zur "Esse". Rechts queren und Riss in Südwestwand zG.

FA: Albert Kunze, O. Perry-Smith & H. Simon, 1903

V Trad 25m
2 Pfeifenkante VIIb Mixed trad 1
3 Toter Riss

Wie "Nördlicher Pfeifenkamin" am "Dom" zur Einschartung. Nach links und Handriss (R), oben nach links und Nordkante zG.

FA: Arno Sieber & O. Bruchholz, 1916

VIIc Mixed trad 1
4 Toter Riss Erwähnung

Nach dem R oben rechtshaltend Rissspur zG.

VIIc Mixed trad 23m, 1
5 Nordbahnhof

AF VIIIb

FA: Joachim Friedrich & Gunter Hommel, 1997

VIIIc Mixed trad 3
6 Heißer Sommer

with support VIIIb, VIIIc

IXa Mixed trad 2
7 Nordostwand VIIIa Mixed trad 2
8 !Todesbeginn

FA: Jürgen Höfer & Joachim Friedrich, 1997

Xa Mixed trad 4
9 Wechselbalg

FA: Thomas Willenberg, 1997

XIc Mixed trad 3
10 Milder Winter

AF IXc

FA: Bernd Arnold, G. Müller & G. Lamm, 1983

Xa Mixed trad 3
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
11 Lammriss

FA: Oliver Perry-Smith & R. Fehrmann, 1905

VI Trad 24m
12 Lammriss Variante

FA: Oliver Perry-Smith, 1906

V Trad 24m
13 Lammriss Variante Erwähnung

Von der kleinen Platte linkshaltend und linksgeneigten Handriss zu Band.

VI Trad 24m
14 Lammi

AF VIIa

VIIb Mixed trad 24m, 1
15 Südkante Originaleinstieg

Von Band in Höhe der Untermauerung (SW) in kleiner Verschneidung zu Band. Weiter rechts queren zur Südkante. Diese (nR) zG.

VI Mixed trad 25m, 1
16 Südkante Heute meist

"Lammriss Variante" zu Band und nach links zur Südkante. Diese (nR) zG.

VI Mixed trad 25m, 1
17 Heizer IXb Mixed trad 3
18 Südwestwand Originaleinstieg

with support VIIc. "Südkante Originaleinstieg" zu Band...

FA: Gerd Schuster, W. Schuster, S. Kliche, H. Mrosek & H. Müller, 1947

VIIIa Mixed trad 27m, 3
19 Südwestwand Heute meist

with support VIIc. "Lammriss Variante" zu Band und linksansteigend (1.R "Heizer") zum 1.R.

VIIIa Mixed trad 27m, 4
20 Verbindungsvariante

with support VIIc

VIIIa Mixed trad 2
21 Saxonia

with support VIIb

VIIIa Mixed trad 3

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop
V Lammriss Variante Trad 24m
Überfall Trad 25m
VI Lammriss Trad 24m
Lammriss Variante Erwähnung Trad 24m
Südkante Heute meist Mixed trad 25m, 1
Südkante Originaleinstieg Mixed trad 25m, 1
VIIb Lammi Mixed trad 24m, 1
Pfeifenkante Mixed trad 1
VIIc Toter Riss Mixed trad 1
Toter Riss Erwähnung Mixed trad 23m, 1
VIIIa Nordostwand Mixed trad 2
Saxonia Mixed trad 3
Südwestwand Heute meist Mixed trad 27m, 4
Südwestwand Originaleinstieg Mixed trad 27m, 3
Verbindungsvariante Mixed trad 2
VIIIc Nordbahnhof Mixed trad 3
IXa Heißer Sommer Mixed trad 2
IXb Heizer Mixed trad 3
Xa !Todesbeginn Mixed trad 4
Milder Winter Mixed trad 3
XIc Wechselbalg Mixed trad 3
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