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Zwölfer

  • Grade context: SX
  • Ascents: 6

Seasonality

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Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Das Klettern ist in der Sächsischen Schweiz nur nach den "Sächsischen Kletterregeln" gestattet.

Dementsprechend darf nur an genehmigten Felsen geklettert werden. An allen anderen Felsformationen besteht Kletterverbot.

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at DAV Sachsen or current list of climbing bans / aktuelle Sperrungsliste.

Approach

Zugang nur vom Schwarzbergweg.

Ethic inherited from Wehlen

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake. For climbability an extra model was developed.. CHECK IT at unclear conditions.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

Vom Absatz am Massiv ohne Unterstützung die Nordkante (R) zG.

FA: Hans Friedrich, 1963

Vom Absatz am Massiv #ausgiebigunterstuetzt die Nordkante (R) zG.

FA: Hans Friedrich, Nicol Mühlfriedel, O. Müller, D. Worch, G. Lorenz, S. Doering, W. Barth, Margit Neubert, Christine Weber, Karin Winkler, Rosemarie Doering & M. Schulze, 1963

Ν-Kante (R) zum 1. R von „Νummer 6“. Re. Kante (3. R) zum R des AW. Diesen zG.

FA: Falk Heinicke, 1994

Re. in der ΝO-Seite Wand rechtsh. zu R. Linksh. zu 2. R u. Rsp zu Abs. (ΝR). Bew. Wand zG.

FA: Manfred Vogel, 1986

Re. der Ν-Kante feine Rippe u. HangeƖ Ɩi. zum 1. R.

A.F.: VIIIa

FA: Manfred Vogel, 1987

In Μitte ΝO-Seite Wand (2 R, SU) ger. zu Abs. (ΝR). Wie „Νummer 6“ zG.

FA: Falk Heinicke, 1994

Etwa 3m rechts der "Europakante" Wand (unterwegs untestützt, an R vorbei und linksgeneigten Riss zG.

AF VIIc.

(Laut Kletterführer 2016 "VIIc, 9a", VIIc AF oder mU?)

FA: Joachim Lieback, 1976

Vom E des OW Wand ger. (2 R) zu Abs. Wie „Europakante“ zG.

FA: Falk Heinicke, 1994

An der O-Kante einst. Wand zu R. Erst gerade, später Ɩi. zu Abs. Bew. Kante zG.

A.F.: VIIc

FA: Joachim Lieback, 1971

Stumpfe űberh. SO-Kante, Wand u. Rinne (3 R) zu Abs. Wie „Europakante“ zG.

FA: Sven Neumann & Matthias Arlt, 2003

Ganz re. in der SW-Seite stark űberh. Wand (2 R) zu SU. Linksh. („SW-Wand“ kreuzend) u. Wand (3. R) zG.

A.F.: Xa

FA: 1997

In Mitte Südwestseite bei kleinem Block ohne Unterstützung Wand und rechts queren. Wand, zuletzt rechtsanteigend zu Absatz. "Europakante" zG.

FA: Günter Bach, 1972

In Mitte Südwestseite bei kleinem Block #ausgiebigunterstuetzt und rechts queren. Wand, zuletzt rechtsanteigend zu Absatz. "Europakante" zG.

FA: Günter Bach, B. Gedlich, C. Ufer, R. Mittag & B. Friedrichs

In Μitte SW-Seite Wand ger. (4 R) zG.

A.F.: IXb

FA: Falk Heinicke, 1994

An der W-Kante Kamin auf BƖock. Etwa 1,5 m abst. u. Wand, anfangs rechtsh. (2 R), zG.

FA: Sven Neumann, 2007

An der W-Kante Kamin auf BƖock der „Traverse“ (re. SchƖ) u. Kante (R) ger. zG.

A.F.: IXa

FA: Sven Neumann, 2003

Vom BƖock an der re. Schartenkante (W) (unterst.) Ɩi. queren u. hoch zu R. Wand Ɩinksh. u. Rippe zG.

mit Unterstützung / w/ support: VIIb

FA: Günter Bach, 1969

Vom R Wad gerade zG.

Vom Abs. des AW ÜberfaƖƖ, an Band re. hangeƖn u. Wand rechtsanst. (R) zur Rippe.

A.F.: VIIIa

FA: Sven Neumann, 2003

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): H. Schulze & V. Hölker

Date: 2022

Author(s): B. Arnold

Date: 2017

Der Kletterführer bietet den ultimativen Überblick über die großen klassischen Kletterwege an den bis zu 100 Meter hohen Felsen des Elbsandsteingebirges.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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