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Summary
Limestone
The south face of the Marmolada, with some of the most beautiful and sought-after routes, represents an absolute reference point for climbing in the Dolomites.
Description
All day sun
The South Face of Marmolada has about 200 routes; the majority are works of art that represent the evolution in mountaineering and the maximum expression of difficulty, effort and beauty.
Enjoy the ca. 5000 pitches!
Access issues
Designated
Descent:
"Getting up is only half the battle" (Confucious Caeser Messner, ca. 1453)
Due to the epic size of the South Face of Marmolada, the descent (in decent time present its own various difficulties.
Cablecar from Punta Rocca / Serauta --> Malga Ciapela. If you are fast, up until 4pm you can catch this cablecar from Punta Rocca back down.
Hike down towards the middle cablecar station (Serauta). Shortly before reaching it, turn left onto the ski slopes. Follow them up to the Fedaia pass where the refuge of the same name is found (2057 Mt.). From here return to Malga Ciapela (useful to have 2 cars or hitchhiking).
Approach
1-2 hour
2-3 hour
Driving/parking:
From the hamlet of Malga Ciapela, follow the road that leads to the campsite and to the Malga Ciapela farmhouse. Continue up to the "accesso divieto" ban (the road then becomes a dirt road) and park the car. From here, it is easy to access most climbs on the eastern half of the S Face.
- Hike (western half of the S Face):
- (ca. 1 hour)
Take the red/white trail nr.610, first along a dirt road and then an easy path leading to Malga d'Ombretta (1904m). Along the way it is possible to take shortcuts (marked with poles).
Once you have reached the hut, continue along path nr.610 which goes up towards Rifugio Falier (2074m).
Access to climbs:
From here follow various trails to the individual areas. (approx. 1 hour)
Where to stay
Rifugio Falier, Club Alpino Italiano (20 june - 20 sept, 56 beds w/ pillows & blankets, recommended to book on weekends) http://www.rifugiofalier.altervista.org/
Bivacco Marco dal Bianco (Passo Ombretta, 9 beds with mattresses and some blankets) https://www.clubalpinoaccademico.it/index.php/bivacchi/item/144-bivacco-marco-dal-bianco
Ethic
The South Face of Marmolada, like many areas in the Dolomites, has a long history of bold, cutting-edge alpinism and rock climbs.
The ethic is predominantly mixed, however pitons are often favoured over bolts in sections that are difficult to protect with traditional gear.
On any given climb, expect to place traditional protection through most pitches, and also to back up/reinforce some anchors. Generally, the crux sections or hard pitches of a climb will be better protected with pitons, due to many parties slowly reinforcing difficult sections over time.
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Selected Guidebooks more Hide
Author(s): Maurizio Giordani
Date: 2017
ISBN: 9788885475021
A selective guidebook covering Marmolada’s south face, the highest mountain in the Dolomites, describing 192 multi-pitch routes with many of them between 300m and 800m long.
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Hansjörg Auer † at South Face of Marmolada - hansjorg-auer-on-via-attraverso-il-pesce-dolomites.jpg
Fri 2 Jun
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