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Tofana di Rozes

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Description

Tofana di Rozes is one of the prominent peaks in the Tofane Range of the Dolomites, located in northeastern Italy. It stands at an elevation of 3,225 meters (10,580 feet) and is known for its rugged and vertical rock faces, making it a popular destination for rock climbing enthusiasts. Topo Photo

Tofana di Rozes offers various climbing routes, ranging from moderate to extremely challenging, both sport and trad routes and via ferrata route such as the spectacular via ferrata Lipella, catering to climbers of different skill levels and experience.

Climbing Tofana di Rozes requires proper equipment, including a climbing harness, helmet, ropes, and appropriate rock climbing gear. It is advisable to climb with experienced partners or under the guidance of a knowledgeable mountain guide who can provide assistance and ensure safety during the ascent.

The panoramic views from Tofana di Rozes are breathtaking, with the surrounding peaks, valleys, and the beautiful Dolomite landscape stretching out in all directions. Whether you are an experienced climber seeking a challenging ascent or simply want to admire the natural beauty, Tofana di Rozes offers an unforgettable experience in the Dolomites of Cortina d'Ampezzo. Source Powrock

Approach

The best approach is from the Dibona refuge, which can be reached by car from the road that leads from Cortina to the Falzarego Pass

Descent notes

From the summit the descent develops first along the normal route and then following an easy path up to the Dibona refuge

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Routes

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Grade Route
1 5+ 35m
2 6 35m
3 4+ 50m
4 5+ 30m
5 6 20m
6 4 40m
7 5 28m
8 3 30m
9 5+ 30m

Via nuova che si sviluppa lungo uno spigolo secondario della Tofana di Rozes formato da tre balzi di roccia che formano una grande torre staccata dalla parete del Primo Spigolo. La via è attrezzata con chiodi ad espansione lungo la via e soste su spit e catena

Set: Mario Dibona, Andrea Bacchin & Armando Nascè, 20 Sep 2019

6b obligatory, exit same as for "Primo Spigolo".

FA: Massimo Da Pozzo & Giammario Meneghin, 2004

1 4+ 40m
2 4+ 40m
3 5+ 35m
4 4 40m
5 4 45m
6 4+ 30m
7 5 20m
8 4+ 30m
9 1 20m
10 5 45m
11 4+ 30m
12 4 40m
13 4+ 40m
14 4 50m

The Primo Spigolo (First Edge) climbing route is a classic climbing route on Tofana di Rozes in the Tofane Range of the Dolomites, Italy. It is considered one of the most sought-after climbs in the region. The Primo Spigolo follows the prominent ridge on the southwest face of Tofana di Rozes, offering a thrilling and exposed climbing experience.

The Primo Spigolo route requires technical climbing skills and experience, as it involves steep rock faces, exposed sections, and challenging moves. The climbing difficulty is graded V, which translates to a challenging and demanding climb.

The route is characterized by its excellent rock quality, with solid and compact Dolomite limestone. Climbers can expect a combination of face climbing, chimney climbs, and exposed ridge traverses, all of which add to the excitement and adventure of the climb.

The Primo Spigolo climbing route on Tofana di Rozes offers not only a physically demanding climbing experience but also stunning panoramic views of the Dolomite peaks and valleys. Source Powrock

https://www.planetmountain.com/english/rock/dolomites/itineraries/scheda.php?lang=eng&id_itinerario=277&id_tipologia=38

FA: Albino Alverà & Ugu Pompanin, 1946

Warning Fixed Gear: Gear

7a obligatory

FA: Massimo Da Pozzo & Marcello Menardi, 2005

FFA: Massimo Da Pozzo, 2006

The Alverà Pompanin climbing route is indeed a popular and challenging route on Tofana di Rozes in the Tofane Range of the Dolomites.

The Alverà Pompanin climbing route, also known as Terzo Spigolo climbing route, follows the prominent south ridge of Tofana di Rozes. It is considered one of the classic and demanding climbs in the Dolomites, offering a mix of technical climbing and exposed sections.

The route includes steep rock faces, exposed sections, and some chimney climbs, providing an exciting and physically demanding climbing experience.

The difficulty of the Alverà Pompanin route is graded as UIAA (Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme) V. The climbing route, 700 meters long, unfolds in 17 lengths with an elevation gain of 550 meters.

The Alverà Pompanin climbing route on Tofana di Rozes offers a memorable and rewarding climbing experience, combining stunning views with a challenging ascent in the beautiful Dolomite landscape. Source Powrock

FA: A. Alverà & U. Pompanin, 1946

FA: Antonio Dimai, Roland Eötvös, G. Sorpaes & A. Verzi, 1901

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Ivo Rabanser

Date: 2022

Author(s): Guido Colombetti

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9788855470599

A selective guidebook describing 105 different sport climbing crags throughout the whole of the Dolomites area, covering the best of the low-level sport climbing across the region, including both single and multi-pitch routes.

Author(s): Idea Montagna

Date: 2021

Climbing guidebook for the best sport climbing areas around Cortina d'Ampezzoin - the guide included 31 areas

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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