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Prigorod

  • Grade context: FR
  • Ascents: 11
  • Aka: Пригород

Seasonality

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Description

The first part of the main cliff.

Access issues inherited from Tamgaly-Tas

A large sandy patch normally forms on the usual access road at (44.083491, 77.022340), about 5km from the crag. With a 2wd, you should consider taking one of the alternate roads.

There is a gate at the entrance to the climbing area. As of 2020 the wardens don't seem to mind if you just walk through and climb. They will, however, charge a fee if you drive in, or camp inside the fence.

Ethic inherited from Tamgaly-Tas

There were some dodgy ethics in the past (chipped and glued holds), but the crag is now being developed as a modern sport crag, with respect for trad lines.

There is still plenty of space on Tamgaly-Tas rocks. There is a place for sport routes, multipitches, and trad lines. If you live or travel in the area and decide to put a route:

  • Use best materials available, i.e. stainless steel glue-in bolts and appropriate glue (Hilti Hit RE-500, Hilty Hit HY-200 or similar). The second option—expansion stainless steel bolts. If you don’t have access to suitable gear, please don’t bolt anything.
  • Contact the locals - that is Kirill Belotserkovsky on Facebook or at kirill@steelinside.com - to discuss a sector and a line.
  • Don’t bolt obvious cracks! Cracks could be done on gear, so consider doing them in the best style you (or those stronger than you) can.

If you don’t want to deal with drills, dust, and glue but want to join the process of development of the area, donate some money. One route costs approx $100, but you don’t need to transfer all the sum. Even a small donation will allow the locals to buy more bolts and set more safe routes.

Routes

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Grade Route

Start is to the right of the bolts, beneath obvious small flake. Traverse to the first bolt and then continue up to the right. Spotter or stick clip is a very good idea for the first bolt. The direct start has also been climbed.

Start at the crack right of Surpriz #2 and follow the crack to the anchors. Takes cams up to BD #5

The next crack a few metres right of Shel straha. Crack and bolts lead to a ledge. Then pull the rooflet and continue up and right to the ridge. Descend from the metal spike on the ridge.

Start at the wider crack a metre or two right of Shel boli. Climb the crack to the rooflet and then traverse left to join Shel boli.

Starts just above a boulder about 10-15m right of Cherez karniz. Climb right of the bolts for 6c, left for 6b.

Start a few metres right of Mescalito and follow bolts to the open-book corner.

FA: A. Rychkov, 2002

Starts on a gentle slab 10-15m right of Surpriz.

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Fri 2 Jun
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