Routes in Middle East for selected grade

The left most boulder problem on the cliff. Despite it's danger rating, it has solid rock and movements! Start in a corner and make a big move up and right to a good pocket (can be done both static or dynamic) Make a few more difficult moves to get established in the upper corner, then enjoy a slightly more casual top out. Careful. If you blow any of the upper moves you'll come crashing down onto a large boulder and probably get really messed up...

Sit start the crack and lay back up to a nice large flat edge. Make a move or two on good edges then tackle the crux. The crux requires a high left foot to stand up into an undercling above your head. Slap the jug right above it. Then traverse easily off left.

To find it walk to the left end of the Old school wall. Climb up 5 feet to a small ledge (Where The Wire starts) and follow the cliff line to the end. Shadows and The Kung Fu Method are located right there before you turn the corner. This is the middle/obvious crack at the end of the cliff line.

A steepish route with multiple cruxes separated with good rests.

The first bolt is a bit high but there is a good clipping hold.

A deceptively hard face climb. A bouldery start leads to a small ledge where a rest can be had. Continue up the face on small edges and pockets for a few bolt or until you reach another boulder problem. Using very small holds, and even smaller feet, climb over the bulge. Easier climbing leads you to the anchors. The opening boulder problem will feel harder for short people

When it comes to movement this is one of the bets pitches at the crag! Sadly it has been the site of much controversy regarding it's bolting. What was originally a perfectly safe route has been dumbed down by retro-bolting from a few weak-minded individuals...If you want to climb the route in it's formal glory, only clip the original bolts (it's very easy to distinguish due to the new bolts being very shiny)

anyways...climb up the easy slab to where the wall turns to vertical. Make some big moves on good incut edges until you can clip the anchors from a stance under the big flake. Clipping the anchor may be harder if you're short.

A wonderful, long route that has managed to avoid the wrath of retro-bolting... Climb up the easy slab to face climbing and a dihedral with technical and thought provoking moves.

An aesthetic climb with a memorable crux! An easy and less steep start leads up to harder and increasingly pumpier climbing to the final overhang where you must dispatch a puzzling, and committing final crux. One of the best at the crag for sure

Climb past 2 bolts to a beautiful right facing corner. Shares anchors with Lichen My Whistle

This Burly rock climb will get you jacked. Watch out for a hidden pocket halfway up.

Start with a sharp boulder problem and continue up awesome climbing to the anchor.

A bouldery start followed by a brave exit from the crux.

Teeter up the arete onto the ledge and finish on the steep face.

Short, powerful, the route up the steep wall right next to the road (best to time your attempts when there isn't a bus or lorry approaching!).

The so-so short technical route in the 'hidden' sector.

Another hard 6c.

Tricky and awkward climbing. Some looseness so take care. Worth noting that anything you pull off is likely to land in the middle of the main road.

#SD Vertical crack only. Topo.

same start as "bleeding spartan" then goes left

A scary dyno move!

Nice route with tricky start (magic feet) and a generous runout from 4th to 5th bolt where you need to be careful. Same anchor with the next two routes.

A fun contrived problem. Start on a large hollow feature on the left of the face and dyno for a large ledge and finish straight up.

In far right end of the crag. Very easy start using the boulder behind. Interesting short crux sequence with easy solution.

#SD Topo.

Official grade is 6a+ but must be a mistake.

Spectacular yet pumpy start through the roof and "over the rainbow", followed by some technical moves on the face of the other side.

Very low sit-start on the ledge with a left heel-hook.

Sit-start with the left side of the big ledge.

Sit-start with the right side of the big ledge.

Climb the left side rails. Sit-start.

Traverse from the far left to the far-right, and then go up.

thin pumpy crack

Brittle bottom, cruxy center.