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Pasjak

  • Grade context: UIAA
9
UIAA

Description

Pasjak Peak is a marked peak rising at the eastern end of the valley, virtually in the very centre of the circle formed by Torač Peak, Veliki Toljevac Peak, Štitan Peak, Surdup Peak and Velji Vrh Peak. It is 2025m high and it has two obvious ridges -the north-west ridge and the south ridge as well as the three noticeable rock faces - the north face, the east face and the south-west face. Crags have an average height of 200m and a relatively good quality, although, as in all large limestone crags, loose datails are not a rarity at all.

Via normale approach (as well as the descent ) leads along the south ridge. Marked mountain trail leads from the very lake to the summit of Pasjak zigzaging through the narrow valley between Torač Peak and Pasjak Peak, then avoiding Pasjak Peak from the east in order to reach the ridge plateau, where it forks. The northern fork leads along the ridge to Pasjak, while the southern fork turns toward the col between Štitan Peak and Surdup Peak. It takes about 1.30 hrs to get from the lake to this fork. The crags themselves and the north-west ridge of Pasjak Peak are a serious rock climbing challenge. Their average height doesn't go over 200m, but the lengths of the routes leading along them are always over this figure, since those routes also imply a lot of hiking along the broken highland terrain with plenty of crevices and ravines, and that is particularly noticeable in the north rock face and the north-west ridge. Those, actually, consist of three sections: the lower barrier, with the height of 30-70m, stretching along the whole length of the north rock face, then a large ledge, charactarized by all above-mentioned features, and the crest which is the most attractive section of the peak itself. Within it there are several prominent details - the north-west ridge, large scree leading from the ledge to below the very summit, and the central head, which is with the above-mentioned scree separated from the north-west ridge, while from the eastern section of the rock it is divided by a long, prominent chimney.

Climbing in the crags of Pasjak should be taken very seriously. On 2 August 2002, Vesna Drakulić and Bojana Tekić, members of the AOB(Alpine Section of Belgrade), lost their lives exactly while climbing one of the routes in the north-west ridge. The memorial plaque situated on the ledge where they were seen for the last time, is not just a memento to the friends who are not among us any more, but also a warning to all those people whose attention and carefullness sometimes weakens in a searh for an adventure

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Routes

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Grade Route

FA: P.Berilažić i S.Vujić

FA: M.Čalija i D.Branković

FA: M.Ivačković i I.Laković

FA: M.Ivačković i I.Laković

FA: D.Branković i M.Čalija

FA: M.Ivačković i I.Laković

FA: M.Ivačković i I.Laković

FA: D. Branković i M.Čalija

FA: D.Radunković i I.Laković

Information needed

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Fri 2 Jun
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