★★ Mrs Balls 19 PROT:X

SCARY! 1st pitch has 1 peg and 1 bolt and a run-out of almost 35 meters. Don't fall. Further bolts to be added soon and then the route will be much more enjoyable. Pitch 1 - Climb up the flaky corner crack past a peg to a foot ledge and a bolt. Friction up and then diagonally left to reach a hidden crack to belay on large cams. X rated pitch! Pitch 2 - Follow the wide corner crack (BD5 & 6) to belay on chockstones. Awesome! Pitch 3 - Continue up the crack crossing over to the right and up a crack system. A hard pull over a bulge to belay on a ledge. Pitch 4 - Climb up a groove with good but spaced gear past a steepening and then up the easy slab to belay in a cave. Pitch 5 - Squeeze up and out right of the cave and scramble up easy ground to the belay bolts on Hoab Hanab. Abseil down this route from here. TOPO here: http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201215046/Great-Spitzkoppe-Northwest-Face-Mamba-No-5-and-Other-New-Routes