Routes in New Zealand for selected grade

Curving crack right of It's Now Or Never. Start under tree about 6m up.

On the "Wet Entrance Wall" Th e stream disappears underground about 50m south-east of the cave dry entrance. Start on the far bank. Climb past two parallel cracks to a bulge. Move right over the bulge and direct to the top. Natural pro, tree belay.

To the left the wall degenerates to a tree-lined slope before outcropping again. Start 2m to the left of the second tree growing at the foot of the cliff . Climb to a sharp edge and large hole, then up a groove.

The route starts at the next sizeable outcrop some 15m to the left . Climb to a small overhang below the tree with protruding flake (what!?). Move right to gain a ledge, and finish by the right-hand tree.

Climb up past a single bolt on juggy flakes. Route name, grade and description provisional pending further information. FA Unknown.

A corner on your right as you walk down the gully between the cliffs. Look for a large vine jammed in it. Start left of the vine (crux), then bridge up the corner.

On the left-hand cliff (going down the gully) facing the sea is a shallow scoop. Climb this, avoiding some loose rock at the top.

You’ll notice this right leaning crack as soon as you reach the point. The start is likely to be wet at high tide. Begs to be climbed.

On the microwave looking boulder 100m south of The Point. Climb the arête using the least sharp holds you can find finishing up the slightly overhanging face.

A sharp but pleasant arête to work up, topping out top left. Named in honour of Langs Beach royalty.

Climb the crack on the left side of the pillar of 'Ogopogo Strikes Back' (17). Good nut placeable from the ground saves your ankles, juggy but somewhat powerful start leads to easier ground above. Plenty of options for cams/nuts, enjoy mantling up at the top.

Climbs the blocks to the right of 'The South Face', follow the blast hole line towards the anchors of 'Fingertip Face'. Some good placements on the first half, the bolts can be used for a mixed route or there's a small crack with a couple of placements leading up to the anchor.

Grade 16 if the ledge is not used.

Climb the block for 3m, then up the chimney to the chockstone below the bulge. Over the bulge and up to easier but poor rock. A good belay can be hard to arrange.

The chimney at the back of the arch with chockstone half way up. Climb to the chockstone turning it on the outside (crux). Ascend easily till the chimney has to be vacated out onto a slab on the right, then up easy but poor rock.

There is a large knob of rock on the top of the ridge that can be belayed off, or chuck a sling around it and climb down the gully on the other side to the belay of "The Angel of Calcutta" which is on the right wall of the gully.

Face out to sea and head up the huge crack in the left wall towards the roof. Climb the roof crack and belay at a bottomless stance from big gear.

Pitch two: Out towards the sea and up a fist crack on the outside wall.

Start as for "J.E.M.", and then climb the crack to the large rubbly ledges. Scramble to the first groove on the left wall and get established in the crack. At the top of the crack there is a crack that leads diagonally up to the right to the anchors of "Fight or Slight". While airy it is easily protected to get up to use these anchors to abseil off.

Originally either used a tree tree belay or exited to the left to the anchors of J.E.M. which created drag with an up and over redirect.

Climb the slabby rib, moving right from the ledge at 5m . Up for 3m till you can step back left onto the rib, and on to the top. Belay off blocks at the top or continue up the gully to anchors.

A slabby wall with Titanium Rams Horns for belay, behind the large block and finishing at the same pohutukawa as ‘Slap and Tickle’.

Rams Horn Details: https://youtu.be/3QKKx69xN7M

The short crack facing the sea, Crux is the second section of the crack proper, tree belay back from the top.

Start on the rail to the left of Lockdown, finish same Mantle as Lockdown but can use feet on the left.

Sit start, bottom rock on right is out, stay within the cracks. Finish somewhere in the dark green abyss.

Sit start to top

Sit start, use the face and crack

Sit start, Climb the outside arete on jugs and traverse the tops to the opposite side finish and step down.

One move wonder sit start on arete and ledge top and mantle

Climb the slab then traverse left to the top, watch for loose rock

Mediocre hold quality to the top, be careful

Use the block, crack and arete's to gain the top

P1: Aid through same overhang as Nightingale, then move left for 7m under the big roof until a belay stance with a bolt and good wire. P2: Climb up and slightly right for 3m then move up and right on slab on top of the second overhang. Continue up groove on right and ledges to the top of Nightingale. Double bolt belay. P3: Climb out left to the rib and swing round onto slab. Climb the slab the slab to its highest point keeping to the cleanest rock. Double bolt belay. P4: Not generally climbed now but it is possible to climb further slabs up and right. Belay and descend from pine trees.

The obvious high-level rib overlooking the large pool upstream. It is past the old mine workings where the gorge narrows. Cross stream and head up through bush to the right of the rib. Step left for 3m until a small cave is reached. Climb out of the cave and follow a shallow corner past a peg until you can step right to easier ground. Descent via abseil. This description is old and needs updating.

Climbs the skyline ridge by the easiest line commencing to the right of Shelob. Descent is by abseil. Now very overgrown and difficult to follow.

This climb may be lost to history

Starts level with and across the gully from the pine tree at the top of Shelob. Pitch 1, 15m: Climb the rib for 3m to a groove on the right. Climb the groove, step left at the top and climb up to a tree belay on the right. Pitch 2, 20m: Move left 2m to an in situ peg. With its aid gain the steep rib on the left. An extra sling used on a spike on the rib has since been eliminated. Climb the pleasant exposed rib more easily to a tree belay. Descend by abseil.

The crack above the Skyline Buttress, prominent from the bridge.

Double bolt anchors Obvious bolted line

May need to be rediscovered and cleaned. This description needs updating.

May need to be rediscovered and cleaned. This description needs updating.

May need to be rediscovered and cleaned. This description needs updating.

May need to be rediscovered and cleaned. This description needs updating.

Pitch 1, 20m: As for the standard route to the cave. Pitch 2, 40m: Instead of leaving the cave on the left as for the standard route, exit right. Traverse into a shallow groove and climb this for 5m, Traverse right across a slabby bulge (tree runner), ascend the bulge and the short groove above. At the top of the groove pull out left onto good ledges. This should be the belay ledge for the standard route. May need to be rediscovered and cleaned. This description needs updating.

Up the obvious crack. Takes lots of gear, hence the name. Belay off the Pohutukawa tree.

The right hand side of the face with the sandy base. V0 for the sit start else VB.

The left-facing corner near a Kanuka tree. Bridge and pull through the easy roof, then up and traverse right near the top (don't go between the trees), finishing up The Slot Machine.

For climbers who want to lead good and do other things good too. Layback or jam this obvious great fingers-to-fists learning crack, which accepts a full range of cams and 2 optional nut placements.

Straight up the crack in the middle of the face.

Up the right side of the slab, next to Rise of The Sloths, near the body sized crack. Hard for the grade due to the old school style. Probably a 15.

Keep climbing onto P2 of R.O.T.S. For a nice long pitch dubbed 'Tinkerbella', Grade (19/20).

Second line of bolts right of 'Animal Farm', start scrambling up on to the ledge then into the groove and follow it straight up the easiest terrain,keep the ledges on your right, trending slightly left on the top slab to the anchor. Double bolt D anchor.

Up the pocketed face right of My Little Pony, then tend right and back left to the Pink Fluffy Unicorns anchors. Nuts, cams and hexes in pockets, good for teaching less standard placements and gear extension. Now retro bolted, WTF?

Short chimney at the back right of the cave as you go in from Captain Cavemans first pitch anchor. Left of Year of The Monkey. Quick clip anchors.

Starts 2m above the lake. Follows the crack and big holds finishing below the start of Temple Of The Stone Pilots.

The "deep water solo" of Kawakawa Bay. Access is gained by rapping down the tree or off Pirate King then swim across. Care is needed to avoid the rock at the bottom if you were to fall off.

Accidental retrobolt of For King And Country.

Climb the left-facing corner and crack to the bolted belay on the ledge below the bulge. A great trad lead for beginners.

Immediately left of the overhanging flake. The crack and face above, TBC Belay

An awkward start move leads to easy climbing up the middle of the face past 3 hangers then mantle onto the large ledge (crux) and belay off the DBC belay. One of the nicest 14s around.

The small corner groove at the far right hand end of the crag . Climb the slab & arete then pull over the small overhanging section onto the slab above. From this point climb the twin crack’s in the head wall and belay further back in the bush, DRB belay. (Pro CD, Wires, Hex)