Routes as alpine in Oceania

Filling in the few gaps left by the original old men. Looking down over the top at Charlie’s HB Slab there is clearly a RH finish up an incipient line. SOMB takes the direct line to this half way between HBS and Choss.

Obvious easy couloir on right side closest to access gully.

An angled climb slightly right of the chimney and separate to the main ice. Some rock involved.

Obvious easy gully line on left with various steeper exits

Obvious right facing corner with steep finish on left side of wall

A high groove exit with a thin crack below it marks this climb. Take the most direct line up to the crack and then to top,

Take the easiest line up and left to gain the high groove and the top.

Start at short right curving ice below granite nose .

Up ice and right of rock nose, gear in rock. Traverse up and right to finish in thin groove in upper rock face, rock and ice gear.

Belay of large boulder then walk off

Major steep ice flow on right leading to steep wide corner crack with ice choked finish.

Up the overhang to the right of Tree is not an Anchor, proceeding right through the slight overhangs and wettest parts of the crag, has some (non-climbable) ice forming during winter so I guess you can technically call it mixed climbing and not just dry tooling.

for Top rope solo access, you will need to create several redirects with trad gear from the natural tree anchors above.

Start off block, approximately 2m above ground/snow level, on lowest point of bluff. Follow thin broken cracks vertically and left up to sloping beautiful finger crack Traverse left across gully, over orange slab and back right up corner crack. Belay on large ledge Step left and up through break in rooflet, past old piton and easily up headwall with good gear

We found a couple of old pitons up the top and one on the route so assume at least some of this route has been climbed. If anyone has info please put forward

Start of small ledge, approximately 2m above ground/snow level, 2m right from Rusty Piton start Nice climbing up corner. Step left through rooflet onto thin slab seam. Delicate moves. Wild moves through overhang breaking left. LOOSE ROCK Awkward moves onto unprotected slab then easily to belay ledge. Traverse 5m right then up vertical fist crack, pumpy over bulge. Continue right and up orange wall on nice edges with small gear. Belay on pinnacle peak. Solo across gully and right to obvious steep crack. Few pumpy moves lead to nice slab and top out.

An excellent excursion along the ridge of the amazing Yulludunida dyke formation. More akin to walking along the back of a stegosaurus than climbing, but some parties may want to rope up for some of the more exposed sections.

40 min hike in from the car park. As soon as you breach the tree line, head right until you can’t head right anymore (sheer cliff), then follow the ridge line. Alternatively you can join the ridge earlier if you want some steeper climbing (more akin to a grade 5-6). As you ascend the walking trail head directly for the ridge as soon as you can see the rock outcropping. This is shortly after the path hits a ledge with a good lookout. You may need to do a little bush bashing.

You can avoid some of the more bouldery sections but try to keep to the highest point of the ridge to get the most out of the climb. There is a sling at the hardest down climb about ⅔ into the climb. A short 10m rope may be useful here to assist in the descent.

The walk out involves a bit of bush bashing if you follow the ridge to the end. The higher you stay in the crater the less vegetation you will encounter. Aim to zig zag along the bare rocky areas for ease of travel. Aim for 3-4 hours return at a leisurely pace.

Chimney behind the block left of route 4. A brave solo by a man hardened by domestic duties

From the Organ Pipes area follow the track left. The well worn track becomes steep until an exposed move is encountered. The fall from here would be fatal. Past this move, scramble over a series of boulders and bushes until the hiker's track is rejoined.

An excellent alternative to the Hiker's route. This route has frequent red paint marks from base to summit. A well formed downhill track starting just east from the carpark at S26.89052, E152.88797 will lead to the beginning of the route. From here scramble up easy slabs traversing towards north-west following the marks. The track then climbs straight up for the central part followed by a leftward traverse on easy slabs to a small cave before veering right and up to an exposed and highly scenic finish to the summit.

An alternate finish to this route that goes north at the top (but a bit more exposed) is mapped at https://www.google.com/maps/d/viewer?mid=1ULqnVajNBViUxVymtbjh6jbnrcM&ll=-26.89356304264415%2C152.88713100000007&z=17

Project. Obvious double arête pillar up to tree. Equipping incomplete. The whole thing may just collapse and kill me, so best you stay off it.

Follow the Peasant's Ridge track until on the main ridge before crossing the creek to peasant's ridge. Ascend this rounded ridge easily in open forest until over a knoll. Follow the pad up the crest until coming across a rocky razorback. To ascend the razorback follow the apron to the west until it becomes easy to move up on the top. Once on the razorback follow this for about an hour with some huge exposure on either sides and some spicy moves as it narrows to a sheer knife edge. At the end of the razorback a tricky descent is forced on a short slab with little holds. After the razorback the ridge widens and is heavily vegetated but easy to navigate. A second rocky tower have to be contoured on the west until the ascent is forced in a slimy corner. Good hold exist on the face to the LHS with some exposure. The final rocky outcrop is again bypassed on the left until an easy looking ramp will take you to the top of the ridge just above old hut saddle. Scramble easily to the top of east peak.

Also known as Peasant's Ridge, this is the easiest route up Mt Barney. From Yellowpinch, follow the road that follows Cronan Creek and skirts the south face. Around 4km hiking will bring you to the entrance for the trail which is clearly signposted. From there, follow the obvious track up the mountain, encountering two very minor technical difficulties at "The Slab" and "The Staircase". Eventually, you will find yourself in East-West Saddle, also known as The Rum Jungle. From here, the ascent to East Peak is relatively straightforward although vague at times. Although this is the easiest route on the mountain, it still requires a long approach and 1000m of vertical gain and loss. As such, it is often underestimated by inexperienced parties - don't go underprepared.

Walk up the road next to Cronan Creek past South Ridge trail head, until Egans Creek has been crossed, then walk another 200m. Immediately before the next creek crossing, ascend the spur on your right (marked by a star picket Nov 2022). A gentle incline on a footpad followed by some steep scrub bashing will bring you to Savages Peak. There are fantastic views from here. The route turns north and then north east towards West Peak along an enjoyable razorback outcrop and a jump over the void at the top of the rocky ridge is the highlight of this section. The ascent up West Peak is made through a narrow gully that is the crux of the route and needs to be done with care. In no time West Peak summit is reached.

Overall, Savages Knoll at the crest of this ridge and the razorback route that leads to West Peak are quite spectacular and yield some unique views of East and West Peak.

A nice day hike up the ridge starting from Yellowpinch Carpark, with the final 1km to the summit offering nice scrambling in a fantastic position. Navigational aids receommmended in case the faint track is lost, especially post-fires.

The rocky ridge directly south of Logan's ridge. It starts at a creek junction behind Yellowpinch Hill. Can be accessed by rockhopping Logan River either sides of Yellowpinch of traverse south from lower Logan's Ridge. Both approaches are long, steep and extremely vegetated. This is an off track route. Once the rocky ridge proper is reached, the scrambling is pleasant, typical Barney slabs on bomber rock. Once the ridge ends on the bottom of the east face, the summit can be reached by climbing an obvious long gully on the right side of the east face or by escaping to Logan's Ridge with a slow and scrubby traverse.

A superb scramble up an exposed rocky ridgeline. Access by walking back along the road from Yellowpinch carpark before heading into the bush towards the ridge. The scramble is more difficult and exposed the more left you stay on the ridge.

Start at Lower Portals carpark, follow the track over the first ridge to Rocky Creek. Leave the track on the left and follow a bearing SSW towards isolated creek gully. The base of the ridge has 2 distinct buttresses and the right one, to the north, has a scrambable line. The ridge is relatively open, slabby and leads over Isolated Shoulder to the summit of Isolated Peak. A cruxy buttress at half way requires careful navigation to avoid roping up and some exposure. This ridge is fairly short but more difficult than Logan's, for a comparison.

Eagle's Ridge is the longest route on Mt Barney, stretching from Lower Portals to East Peak. Follow the spur across Tom's Tum and Isolated Peak before gaining North Peak and proceeding to East Peak. Bring a rope, lots of water, a headlamp, and get ready for a big day out (something between 7 and 12 hours). A rope is not mandatory as all difficulties can be avoided. If you wish to follow the true ridge exactly as it lies, than there is a mandatory rappel off the South West side of Isolated Peak.

This ridge has clean rock all the way to the summit of the southernmost Tum, just north of Isolated Peak. The scrambling is easy with the exception of the first 40m, right at the beginning of the rock apron, where some delicate and exposed climbing is necessary to reach a lower gradient above and the ridge proper. Views of Isolated peak impressive east face are enjoyed for most part of the ridge. Once on top, Eagles ridge trail is joined. This ridge is easily approached as Isolated ridges but to the north.

Enter Barrabool creek from Barney creek. The ridge starts at the first creek intersection, in the middle of the two streams. A steep slog over scrubby and loose terrain, going through 3 distinct rocky outcrops. The first two can be either scrambled or bypassed on the RHS (west), the last one is an unavoidable dirty slab scramble with little exposure. The summit of Barrabool Peak has some spectacular but rough camp spots. The final ascent to West Peak (Mt. Barney highest point) is loose and dangerous. A faint food pad can be followed intermittently in a straight line from the saddle, aiming at a point to the left of the summit proper. Easy scrambling but very loose and steep terrain. Once on the top, veer right for a scrub bash to the summit.

A less travelled route up Mt Barney, beginning from Upper Portals and following the ridgeline south to Bippoh Peak (Midget) and then up West Peak via its Northern Ridge. Heavily vegetated.

Beginning at Lower Portals, this alpine flavoured adventure follows Barney Creek before going up Barney Gorge all the way to Rum Jungle in the saddle between East and West Peak. This route can be dangerous after heavy rain.

An unlikely but excellent scramble up the rocky northern aspect of the mountain. Follow the spurline all the way from Burbank campsite to arrive at the base of the north face. Ascend scree slope to gain the ridge where some low-angle rhyolite columns make for interesting scrambling.

An easy ridge hike with a few sections of scrambling. This route is loose and vegetated with little to recommend it.

From the second pyramid it is possible to down solo back into the gully. This is considered the 'normal' descent by locals.

A classic ridge traverse.

Park at the Dove Lake carpark (arrive early to avoid shuttle bus). Walk the West side of Dove Lake and take the Lake Wilks Track up to the Face Track. Approximately 200m North (Left) on the Face Track a definite (cairned) pad heads uphill (1.5 hours). Alternatively, walk on the east side of the lake and take the track up to Hanson Peak (a left hand turn just near Glacier Rock). Follow this along the ridge line, summitting Hansons peak and linking into the Face Track, all the way until the cairned path that leads off to the left up to the summit of Little Horn. If you take this approach and come to the sign for the Lake Wilks track you have come too far.

Follow steep path to summit of Little Horn, then begin scramble down towards saddle. 1-2 short (<10m) abseils may be advisable depending on conditions. Walk/Scramble across saddle to base of Weindorfer's Tower and a vegetated ledge.

From here, a narrow pad may be visible on the right (West) side leading to exposed scrambling; consider roping up. The route takes the line of resistance over rocks and vegetation, approximately following the line of the ridge.

After the summit of Weindorfer's Tower there is a 23m abseil from a large boulder; tat may be in place. The start of this abseil can be safely scrambled down in good conditions taking you to a Horn that can be slung for an approx. 10m abseil. The route then continues as before, though generally easier and on the left (East) side of the ridge, with one very exposed rocky traverse on the right (West) side.

The route eases as approaching Smithies Peak, then descends slightly to main summit path which is followed to Cradle Mountain summit. Return via summit walking track.

Gear: 50m rope, abseil tat, 10-12 slings, large nuts/hexes. Helmets recommended, climbing shoes unnecessary.

Time: 9-10 hours car to car.

If the weather turns, there are a couple of points where you can bail out fairly easily. This is after descending Little Horn (there is actually a path leading from the saddle to face track) and after abseiling off Weindorfers tower, this would involve a bit of bushbashing, but doesn't look too steep.

A big day out in rarely climbed terrain on the West Face of the Acropolis. Graded at 19M1 but would go free at 21/22.

The three first ascensionists were benighted and had to spend the night weathering out a storm under a single space blanket and makeshift shelter.

Take your best set of brushes to clean the moss from those lovely cracks, be prepared to kick off the odd bit of choss and unleash the froth as you crank your way up some great climbing.

Approach as for The Plenipotentiary and start at large boulder near the start of The Plenipotentiary. Tat and mallions are required for the descent raps. Pitch lengths are approximate.

• P1: (12) Up vegetated slope, aiming for obvious deep orange crack. (25m)
• P2: (12) Traverse left and up to corner crack on large ledge. (15m)
• P3: (17) Up corner crack to large tooth shape block. (25m)
• P4: (17) Up corners and ramp to top of large chock. (25m)
• P5: (17) Up dirty corner on left to large vegetated ledge. Aim for obvious twin crack system up and left. (15m)
• P6: (19) Up superb twin splitter crack to large vegetated ledge. Can use huge block as anchor. (25m)
• P7: (22) Up thin and technical corner crack to large ledge. Should be at same height of The Plenipotentiary pinnacle. (20m)
• P8: (17) Right and up off width chimney. (10m)
• P9: (10) Exposed traverse into vegetated exit gulley and then protect as you work up the path of least resistance to summit. One slip on the vegetation would send you plummeting several hundred metres to the valley floor. Rope up, take a parachute or be prepared to turn into a red smear if you slip. (50m)

Descent:

• Walk along ridge to the next west facing green gulley.
• Approx 20m rap off chock at top.
• Scramble down until large cliff and locate to large chock on left side of descent gulley. 60m rap.
• Scramble down until end of gulley and locate large wire and torque nut/hex on right side of gulley. 65m rap (doable with rope stretch on two 60m ropes).

From Barron Pass scramble up through scrub to a steep wall with an overhang above it. Continue R of this through a gap and climb short wall on L to gain ridge. Straight up ridge for three rope lengths leads to a knife-edge ridge and summit of White Needle. Alternatively, keeping L of the ridge from Barron Pass, there is a scrub clutching scramble to the top.

Decent mixed climb. Grade 8-10 climbing on solid rock.

Two-pitch mixed climb with bolts on the first pitch. Better than the Central Buttress.

Easy gully used for descent from upper Grand Pinnacle snow fields.

A great summer or winter traverse, in either direction. Rock is sound over most of the traverse if you stick to the ridge proper. If going southbound, bring another rope for the 50m abseil down the Great Pinnacle. Take a few cams and lots of long slings. Ice axes are a must for winter conditions.

This is the most popular way to access the Summit Plateau and Crater Lake. Until well into summer, most years, snow blankets the upper mountain. But by autumn the steaming Crater Lake is ringed by stark burnt-orange rocks and dark, ash-covered snowfields – dramatic evidence that the volcano is a restless environment, a place not quite of this world. Although one-way lift tickets up the skifield are available in winter, and during the summer holiday period, first-time visitors may want to walk, if only to gain a better idea of the topography of the mountain: it is not that straightforward. In summer, guided walks begin from the top of the skifield chairlifts, up a scoria track to the Crater Lake. In winter, the short climb to the Summit Plateau from the Whakapapa skifield is many North Islanders’ first true alpine experience. From the carpark you can reach the vicinity of the NZAC Ruapehu Hut in about 90 minutes. Follow Tennents Valley to Hut Flat, and then a poled route climbs up Egmont Ridge behind (west of) the Ruapehu Ski Club lodges onto the western side of Delta Ridge. The hut is on the brow of this ridge at 2040m elevation (grid ref 310138). From here there are two main routes. Note that parts of both routes lie in paths followed by lahars on the three occasions they have been recorded on this side of the mountain. Two of these, in 1969 and 1975, occurred in ‘blue sky’ eruptions. From Delta Corner (the rocky end of Delta Ridge) it’s about another 90 minutes to Glacier Knob. Climb up ‘The Gut’ – a popular ski gully between Knoll Ridge and Restful Ridge – and continue beyond straight up the broad valley to the obvious knob on the skyline. Alternatively, just before the top sidle up and slightly to the climber’s left (east) to reach The Notch. This gives direct access to the Summit Plateau. In winter, watch for snow loading from the westerly quarter. From Glacier Knob it’s worth going south along the ridge to The Dome at 2672m. Here you overlook Crater Lake, and beyond is Tahurangi, the true summit of Ruapehu. Dome Shelter is a small emergency shelter, not intended for overnight use, on top of The Dome at grid ref 313113. During winter the door is often buried by snow and ice, so there is a hatch in the roof for emergency access. This shelter will be removed ‘when it falls due for replacement’. Check with DoC on its current status

From the carpark you can reach the vicinity of the NZAC Ruapehu Hut in about 90 minutes. Follow Tennents Valley to Hut Flat, and then a poled route climbs up Egmont Ridge behind (west of) the Ruapehu Ski Club lodges onto the western side of Delta Ridge. The hut is on the brow of this ridge at 2040m elevation (grid ref 310138). From here there are two main routes. Note that parts of both routes lie in paths followed by lahars on the three occasions they have been recorded on this side of the mountain. Two of these, in 1969 and 1975, occurred in ‘blue sky’ eruptions. From Delta Corner climb to the south-west, through the ‘Cornice Bowl’ to reach the top of the Far West T-bar (300m climb, about 45 minutes). From here, continue up the wide valley to reach The Col between The Dome and Paretetaitonga (a further 300m, another 45 minutes). It is a short climb from the Col to the Dome, best made by continuing around underneath and then back up the eastern ridge. In poor visibility the Glacier Knob route is a better descent; when descending the Whakapapa Glacier care needs to be taken to head north-northeast so as to regain the skifield. Failure to do this will leave you amidst the exposed bluffs of the upper Whakapapaiti valley – a long long way from anywhere. The Whakapapa Glacier formerly filled the upper reaches of the valley leading to The Col. Fifty years ago, on April 2, 1954, crevasses across the upper glacier forced Tom and Doris Barcham hard under Paretetaitonga, and then under the Dome to traverse Pyramid. Finally, on Tahurangi they met ‘very steep hard compacted ash. Cut many steps!’ Earlier that same year, New Zealand Canoeing Association members carried a rubber dingy up to explore Crater Lake. Although people have swum in the lake, with a fairly constant acidity of pH 1 this cannot be recommended. There is a story, possibly apocryphal, about a boat once kept near the crater for research purposes. Over time, the acidity ate away at the nails holding the craft together until on one fateful voyage . . .

From the end of the Ohakune Mountain Road, walk up the skifield cat track, and make your way up to the top of the Jumbo T-bar at 2200m. One-way lift tickets are not available on this side of the mountain. From here, leave the skifield boundary and climb in a northerly direction on a rising traverse aiming for a broad ridge at about 2350m. Continue on a rising traverse around the mountain, over rough scree by late summer, into the Mangaturuturu Glacier basin. Climb up to Pare Col at the head of the snowfield, overlooking Crater Lake.

From the Tukino skifield carpark at 1700m, climb the rocky spur south of the upper rope tow. Avoid the gully on your left (south) at all costs; it can harbour a significant avalanche hazard. A poled route leads up in a westerly direction, past a large lava outcrop (the ‘Luncheon Rock’) and crossing several gullies, to a prominent marker pole at 2150m. From the marker pole, the NZAC Whangaehu Hut can be seen about 100m below to the south, perched on a spectacular bluff above the Whangaehu River. Pick a traverse line across and onto the lower Whangaehu Glacier. Take care here: these slopes can get very icy and the runouts are not good. In good snow conditions it’s possible to keep fairly high, but it may be necessary to descend to about 2100m and then climb across and down into the valley. Once on the glacier it’s a long, steady climb up the gently convex slope.

From the Tukino skifield carpark at 1700m, climb the rocky spur south of the upper rope tow. Avoid the gully on your left (south) at all costs; it can harbour a significant avalanche hazard. A poled route leads up in a westerly direction, past a large lava outcrop (the ‘Luncheon Rock’) and crossing several gullies, to a prominent marker pole at 2150m. From the marker pole, the NZAC Whangaehu Hut can be seen about 100m below to the south, perched on a spectacular bluff above the Whangaehu River. From the marker pole, take a rising traverse north-west. The most direct route is to aim for Button’s Buttress, the large bluff on the south side of the glacier proper, and then climb up a wide snow gully to reach the Summit Plateau north of Matihao.

The poled route to the summit.

Typically starts at North Egmont Visitor Centre. Follow the signposted summit route from the upper carpark, being careful to take the left hand route (through the gate) when you head off. Follow the 4WD track as it zigzags across a couple of major valley systems, eventually reaching a public toilet and then Tahurangi Lodge at 1520m. This is a good decision point, as the route is well-formed and reasonably sheltered until here.

Above the lodge, the track follows the true right of the upper Maketawa Valley ('Hongis Gully') for a bit before cutting through the base of the gully and onto a set of wooden stairs to pass through the cliffline on the climber's right. Above this, the route transitions to easy scree and passes through a rock / scree outcrop before hitting a sizeable boulder ('Drinking Rock') with a small depression to its right.

Above here, it's a journey through scree following well worn trails. Gain the obvious lava flow ('The Lizard') at the poled location, and scramble that up until the crater entrance is encountered at around 2400m. Take a right and scramble the summit dome, be courteous and yell out if you dislodge any big rocks with people beneath you. Pop out onto the flat summit region, the true summit is directly behind the obvious plaque.

Route is a bit different in winter. Expect snow from around Tahurangi Lodge, the gully above tends to be hard and icy. It's generally easier to either skirt the upper gully cliffs on the climber's left, or else follow the Around the Mountain track briefly and climb directly to the top of the staircase from there. Instead of taking the Lizard lava flow up, cross into Crater Valley (climber's right of the Lizard) and enter the crater through that.

Easiest route in summer. Often used for novices in winter, but be very careful - the fall line from Crater Valley and upper North Ridge goes through the upper Waiwhakaiho Valley which has killed a good number of climbers over the years.

Much less popular than its North Ridge cousin, but only slightly harder and more interesting.

Start at Dawson Falls Visitor Centre. Follow the route to Syme Hut, which is signposted and commences on your left about 20m behind the visitor centre. Head through easy terrain for 5 minutes, then take a right at the junction (signposted) and start to climb. Lots of steps will eventually take you to wooden stairs at around 1300m, climb through these (ignoring the turnoff to Lake Dive Hut) and come out into a short spot of flat scree. Get everything sorted here (warm clothes, ice axe and crampons out in winter, food and drink) as it's another 400m of climbing before any respite in gradient.

Follow the poled route up through scree.In summer, pass directly through the obvious rock outcrop ('The Knoll') - in winter, it's easier to bypass on to the climber's left. Continue on through until around 1900m where you go over a lip and encounter the false flat. You can follow poles which swing right above the Kapuni Gorge if heading straight to the summit, but the fall line is poor and there can be deep crevasses in early summer slightly lower down. Alternatively, head through the next 50m aiming to the right of Copestone (major rock outcrop) and enter the main plateau. Head to Syme Hut from here, without a doubt one of NZ's finest backcountry huts.

If going to Syme Hut, there is a poled route down into the adjacent Rangitoto Flat (the poled route from the false flat goes directly here). Pick your way up the reasonably featureless southern face, with gradients varying between roughly 30 and 45 degrees. Reach the crater rim at a steel waratah directly west of the Mackay Rocks. Descend into the crater rim and climb the summit dome directly.

Arguably Mt Taranaki's finest summit route, a joy in either summer or winter conditions.

This guide is written from the Stratford Plateau, though the route is also accessed from Tahurangi Lodge with a rising traverse from near Organ Pipes (Mangamawhete) Valley

Start at the Stratford Plateau, and follow the signposted route through to the Manganui Ski Area. Expect this to be super busy during winter if the ski area is open.

From the ski area, head directly up following the various tows. It starts off with easy tussock or snow, transitioning into scree (in summer). From the building at the top of the Top Tow, pick a route onto East Ridge depending on season. In summer, it's typical to cut under the Policeman (dominant rock outcrop above a narrow rock spine) and scramble up to the base of the lava flow. In winter, head above the Policeman instead and cut through a short but potentially troublesome spur. Be careful with the latter, as there's a risk of having to get through off-camber ice slopes with increasing exposure to the cliffs that separate the ridge from Teds Alley.

Either way, climb East Ridge up increasingly steep slopes. In summer, the lower section is a mixture of scree and rock, transitioning to excellent rock (with one awkward scree bed around 2200m which can be avoided), followed by a summit pyramid of decent rock. In winter, expect mostly ice with sometimes awkward rime on the summit pyramid. The ridge is mostly around 45 degrees, with a short step around 2200m and increasing to around 60 degrees by the summit.

Descent from the tooth is via various means. Some parties abseil into the crater, which should be achievable on a single rope (if you can find a decent anchor). However, most parties scramble the crater rim eastward, easy (if a bit exposed) in summer and generally ok in winter depending on snow levels. In summer, grab the cables at the top of Pleasant Valley ('The Chimney') and follow them down. In winter, you might have to go further along to the col in the crater rim ('Surrey Road Entrance') and enter from there. It's possible to downclimb East Ridge, but probably not worth the time - expect to frontpoint on ice back down below 2200m at which point you can walk off.

A classic Taranaki climb, though not particularly popular.

Start from the Stratford Plateau carpark at the end of Pembroke Road. Walk towards Manganui Ski Area for about five minutes before locating an overgrown track entrance on your left. Bash through the first few metres of this after which it improves slightly, but expect scratches.

Follow bush and scrub on the obvious track. It eventually fades out and into nice broad tussock, before the ridge narrows. Sharp pinnacles are soon hit, which are normally scrambled initially before a quick hop to the climber's left will let you sidle the remainder. Be careful not to fall to the right off the pinnacles, it's a long and sheer drop.

Above the pinnacles, follow the ridge up through various outcrops. Some would be slightly dangerous in the wet, there is some scrambling on moss with cliffs only a few metres below. Clear the last of the major ridge difficulties and come out into loose but tolerable rock.

Depending on snow levels (or lack thereof), err on the side of caution when putting on crampons. The ridge eventually fades out into broad face slopes, and those slopes are not pleasant. The matrix isn't coherent, and its littered with rocks that won't tolerate even partial weighting. Expect to send hundreds of rocks into the Manganui Gorge, with a reasonable chance of eventually bailing. Further up, there is a fine layer of shingle on a hard clayish bedrock which is difficult to traverse. To make matters worse, a good portion of the runout heads over cliffs into the Kapuni Gorge.

With that said, when the upper section is snow covered it presents no major difficulties (and even offers pleasant climbing!). Follow it up until you cross over the obvious lip onto the southern face and climb as per the South Face route.

A long outing by Taranaki standards, but a nice variety of terrain with easy climbing in the right season. Despite the low technical grade, it's noteworthy more for its length and height gain - about 12km of continuous climbing and 2100m of gain, one way. The lack of summit routes from the west also means getting back to your car means retracing your steps, or heading back down to the Around the Mountain Track and circling back.

Start off at the end of Kahui Road, on the western side of the mountain. There is no carpark, but plenty of room to park at the turning bay. Follow the signposted route up to Kahui Hut, on well cut (but often boggy) tracks.

Kahui Hut is a nice play to stay for the night, quiet with a bit of history. No fireplace, so bring a nice sleeping bag in winter. You can see the gorge condition from the hut (in good weather), though most of the mountain is obscured by the forest surrounding the hut.

From the hut, you have two choices. The 'correct' route is to make your way down into the adjacent Okahu Gorge, typically via a lightly taped pest control track which comes off the main track slightly below the main hut. Follow this (careful to avoid to drops below) until it hits a slip, scrambling this into the gorge and follow the river up. The gorge is traversable right through, though it takes a few hours on an already long route. There is a decent cliff mid-way up which is scrambled through occasionally prickly terrain to the climber's left. Once you're in the tussock, keep a look to your left for a gentle slope that breaks the mostly cliffed gorge edges to enter the tussock fields above. It is certainly possible to just follow the gorge all the way up which gives a nicer view of Hughsons Ledge, so it's a call between tussock and dry streambed.

The other option is to head up about 50m past Kahui Hut and there's a closed pest control track to your right. DOC was kind enough to put up a No Entry sign (making it easier to find) - I don't have knowledge of whether that's a legal prohibition / call for courtesy etc., but in the interests of liability I would suggest confirming the specifics of access (or lack thereof) with DOC first. I would guess use of the track is discouraged as it enters a short patch of narrow and exposed terrain further up, or potentially to discourage people from walking through the fragile mossfields that litter the western face. Either way, the beautifully cut track heads straight up before traversing a narrow ridge, coming out into scrub and ultimately tussock.

From the tussock fields, continue ascending pat Turehu Hill (tall rock spine to your left). The broad tussock fields narrow and lead to a large mossy outcrop - either climb this directly which is quite steep with mostly friction holds, or head south and follow the obvious ridge which takes longer but is easier. Continue over the outcrop into the gorge proper, and follow that up.

The gorge itself is unpleasant in summer, seemingly oversteepened volcanic debris just waiting to tumble down. Even football sized rocks show little tenacity, kind of like the scree on North Ridge but on a much larger scale. The guidebook recommendation is to take the scree slopes north of the gorge (i.e. the west face) instead, but I have not personally tried this.

In winter / spring / early summer, snow coverage in the gorge makes for a lovely outing. Enjoy the reasonably shallow slopes (perhaps 45 degrees maximum) as you cut under the 150m high cliffs of West Ridge, snaking up until you reach the entrance of the crater when a quick scramble up the summit dome will bring you magnificent views in all directions.

One of the more popular alternatives to the crowded North Ridge route, though possibly because it diverges from that route at Tahurangi Lodge.

Access Tahurangi Lodge however you wish - most come in from North Egmont Visitor Centre as per the North Ridge route, but for those coming from the south it's just as quick to park at the Stratford Plateau and follow the Around the Mountain Track.

From Tahurangi Lodge, ascend the obvious tussock bulge to the climber's left of the marked route up Hongi's Gully. There is a snow pole at the top of this hump which suggests a direct route up is achievable (though steep), but it's easier to follow the Organ Pipes Valley access track (not marked on topo maps) for a short period and ascend onto the ridge proper using either the obvious tussock gully or adjacent ridge crest. The upper section of this ices over quite early in the season and may require a short section in crampons.

Above the bulge, the route flattens off slightly and transitions to broad moss slopes and ultimately scree. Follow the ridge as it gradually steepens, hitting perhaps 50 degrees on the final approach to the crater rim. The upper section is reasonable rock in summer, or snow / ice in winter.

Gain the crater rim slightly right of where the eastern edge of Sharks Tooth drops away, finding a short gully amongst the cliff faces to descend into the crater. Ascend easy slopes to the true summit.

Can be done year round, but in winter watch for rime falling off the bluffs to the south (climber's left) of the route. Also be aware that the upper sections of the route run out over cliffs.

A nice gully route with an ice step for those who choose to take it.

The route is typically accessed from the Stratford Plateau. Follow the signposted route to Manganui Ski Area, then follow the various tows until they terminate. From there, you can see a long line of cliffs above which radiate off the edge of Sharks Tooth - these cliffs separate Teds Alley from East Ridge.

Continue climbing directly up, staying left of the cliff line. The route steepens to around 45 - 50 degrees, eventually becoming hemmed in as you approach the major step at around 2200m.

The guidebook route here goes right, hitting a pitch of ice / steep snow to clear a step. It is possible to avoid the pitch and instead climb over a steep knob of snow / ice to the left of the step. This is useful for solo climbers and those without pitching skills or gear, but also avoids the issue of getting smoked by the rime that tends to fall off the adjacent cliffs and pour down the gully after a good snowstorm. By spring, the step has filled in quite a bit and might not need a rope.

Either way, above the step (or outcrop) it's a laborious few hundred metres of frontpointing to access the crater rim. The route comes out immediately west of Sharks Tooth at a flat spot, mercifully avoiding the difficulties of getting off the tooth in winter. From here, you can drop directly into the crater and ascend the summit dome.

An uncommon and potentially seasonal route, but enjoyable nonetheless. It climbs part of the west ridge of Mt Taranaki, overlapping with Okahu Gorge route.

Access Kahui Hut via the Kahui or Puniho Tracks. From there, access further up is either via a cruise taped pest control track into the lower Okahu Gorge or more directly, the 'closed' pest control track that runs off about 50m past Kahui Hut. Access to the latter is contentious, with an overt prohibition sign in the field and poster in the hut.

If coming up via the lower gorge, travel is ok as per the Okahu Gorge route description. If coming in via the mossfields, you will want to trend south and find the path of least resistance to around 1400m. There's a sloping tussock face around 1400m which gives access and a straightforward descent into the gorge around 1600m, but between the two is a hanging moss slope with a hidden cliff face below - be careful not to drop over this.

From the gorge, access West Ridge. This isn't trivial and generally the crux of the route. Historically it was done via Hughsons Ledge, a tussock / moss ledge that breaks the main cliffs. Access is via a tussock scramble from the gorge floor and then a long trend upwards. I haven't done the route, but there are two visible slips from the gorge that cut the ledge and 70m high cliffs below. The ledge narrows near the top to under 10m wide, before breaking out into a moss basin and providing access to one of the gullies on the West Ridge.

The other option is to climb onto the ridge directly via one of two gullies that cut the ridge just above 1700mm, with a distinctive and blocky lava toe splitting them. The upper one offers good travel, but it's probably above the 1+ grading given to the Hughsons Ledge route. When infilled with avalanche degree and snowfall, it can offer a consistent snow lead from the gorge right up onto the ridge.

Climb the moderate lower slopes at perhaps 40 degrees - on snow this is fine, in summer conditions it can be loose rubble. There's a short rock step about halfway up, though in good snow conditions this reduces to a short 3-5m section of 60 degree snow / rock. Beyond the step, it's largely 40 - 55 degree climbing as the gully opens out from a few metres wide to more of a face. This is a beautiful section, you can look down and see the broad face converging beneath you. The runout is still pretty good at this point, with just that small rock step breaking up the smooth snow slope back to the valley floor.

From the upper gully, there are various options. You can tend left, sneaking around the small but sheer face of a cleaved lava flow. This doesn't look to offer any technical difficulties, but the traverse across runs out over large cliffs.

The gully has a headwall, and in winter this seems to involve ugly chandeliered ice with little substance. Far from offering good pick placements, it seems to accumulate slushy snow around the weakness on its left-hand side making it an unpleasant option. With enough snow coverage, the cliffed right hand side of the gully is broken by a useful snow lead near the top. This leads to a short and icy ridge climb onto a knob, which finally leads to the open expanses of West Ridge.

From here, the route is more trivial. Follow the sweeping ridge until it merges with Bobs Ridge, then ascend to near the shallow saddle and find a route down into the Okahu Gorge. Ascend from here into the crater as per the Okahu Gorge route, being mindful that you can expect heavy rime shelling on the approach.

Not sure how much fun this route would be in summer. The upper gully looks horrendously shingly in summer conditions, and while West Ridge has one dominant lava flow which looks coherent, at least some of the route will be on shallow shingle and exposed. The descent into the gorge could be problematic, and the upper Okahu Gorge tends to be on loose blocks without snow cover.

2+

Quality alpine scramble doable in a day from Mt Cook Villiage. NZ mountaineering grade 3, approximately Ewbanks Grade 8. Competent parties may be able to solo but a rope and some trad gear should probably be carried. Start either:

• Scrambling up the scrub to the right of the buttress until gaining the ridge.
• Direct up the buttress (approx 18/19)
• following a stream on lookers left of the Buttress until it joins the route higher up.

See here for where the climb starts.

Up the easy snow slopes trending slightly left of the black thumbnail and the corniced ridge above. Steep climbing and technical crux (Wi4) lessening to 70 degree ice leads left up a snicy couloir to a ridgeline. Traverse left and straight up a headwall for 80m of 60 degree ice.

A thirteen pitch route starting just right and below where the major icecliffs begin to develop. The route follows a right ascending traverse after four pitches and then heads straight up steep ice onto the ridge 200m from the summit of Mt Walter.

Ascend an obvious gully for eight pitches, which broadens out to join the snowfields left of the summit.

Climbed during a lean snow season on mainly since with a little bit of rock/water ice. An engaging climb from start to finish. 250m of technical climbing + 100m of steep snow. The crux second pitch goes directly up a smear of steep ice that disects the lower rock band - an amazing pitch of alpine ice. Approached via Divers Col route. Descent down this via Green's east face.

P1- easy gully to belay at base of steep flow. 30m. P2- straight up steep smear of ice to belay at start of next gully. Crux. 60m P3- gully climbing with bulges. 30m. P4- angle up and right to short steep grove that takes you back left through mixed terrain.50m P5- easy mixed terrain up and right towards flow dissecting final rock band. 50m. P6 - short steep ice flow for 20m + 100m of steep snow to summit.

The eye catching southwest buttress gained from upper valley in Freds Stream, on the south west outlier of Mt Lloyd. Climb centre of delightful face for six pitches of about grade 12. Then complete a series of pinnacles and short walls. The upper part of the route provides a crux grade 16 pitch on a 40m wall. About 350 m, 14 pitches in total.

From Plateau Hut cross the Grand Plateau Glacier and follow the Linda Glacier past Zurbriggens and Bowie Ridges. Turn left at Teichelmans Corner and continue to the right of the Linda Shelf. Gain the shelf and traverse to climbers left quickly underneath the menacing ice-cliffs above (called the Gunbarrels). Join Zurbriggens Ridge at the Summit Rocks and continue up onto summit ice-cap.

Easy climb from Barron Saddle Hut

Up via Welchman Glacier

Arthur’s Pass NP’s answer to the Grand Traverse of the Remarkables. Similar in character to its southern cousin, but with poorer rock quality and slightly less dramatic views.

From the Temple Basin ski field, ascend the slabs on the east face of Mt Phipps. Many variations are possible, and it is sometimes better to choose the harder line to avoid loose rock and scree. After gaining the ridge, follow it northeast to the summit of Mt Temple. Travel along the ridge is relatively straightforward, but it is sometimes necessary to drop down on one side or another to avoid gendarmes. The descent from Temple involves scree skiing down the central fully back to the ski field.

This route follows the only marked track to a summit in APNP. From behind the visitors centre in Arthur’s Pass Village, ascend steeply through native beech forest, passing several waterfalls, to eventually arrive above treeline. Join with Scott’s Track about 200m below the summit and continue up. Descend via Scott’s Track or continue on to Lyell Peak and Mt Bealy.

Starting left of the NE Coulior and main buttress follow this up until you reach the flat ridge above the rib. Continue up the ridge crest on good rock o the summit. Mt Cook Grade +

Ascend the prominent coulior to the right of the NE Spur.

Ascend the rib to the right of the NE Spur following it up to the top of Sun Circle. Continue along the ridge climbing to the summit.

Climb prominent corner to the right of Eurostar for 3 pitches on good rock then 7 more pitches on deteriorating rock to reach the gendarme. Abseil the face climber's right of Sun circle.

Ascends the ice fall from Haast Corner to Marcel Col. If crevasses prove problematic, the route may be navigated closer to Lendenfeld than to Haast. Beware of cornices forming on the edge of the col. NZ Grade III, 2.

A straightforward route on moderate snow slopes, however conditions can alternate between hard ice in winter and a large gap with exposed rock developing in late summer. The common access and descent route for Tasman via Engineer Col. NZ Grade III, 2.

200m scrambling up good rock (grade 12) then following the snow slopes to the exit gullies to the summit. Descent via the South Ridge is normal. NZ Grade III, 4.

Best to follow the main weakness on the right of the buttress (grade 12) though a line up the centre has been climbed at grade 15. Follow the snow slope through the exit gullies to the summit. NZ Grade III, 4.

Climb the snow rib to the right of the rock butresses then traverse out onto the main face and up the exit gullies to the summit. NZ Grade II, 3+.

The most popular way up Haidinger, as well as the most common descent route. NZ Grade II, 3.

s

An easier access and descent route for the North West Ridge. Has been the scene of several fatalities, care is required in the afternoon with softening snow. NZ Grade III, 2

NZ Grade III, 3