Routes as boulder in Oceania

To the right of Caffeinator, sit start the crack.

Sit start at the base of the leaning arete and climb leftwards up the line of slopers and flakes. A classic for the grade!

Sit start at the base of the leaning arete. Mantle into the scoop and climb straight up on slopers and edges.

A good looking problem taking the central feature up the wall just right of the start to 'Innocence'. Sit-start.

The right trending finish to "Charlie's Sex Tour". Climb CST to mid-height and traverse right to the large sloper pod and up the scoop.

Sit start to the right of Charlies Sex Tour on right slanting holds and traverse onto the lower line of slopers. Finish up into Bubble Trouble.

Sit start on the huge hollow flake and follow the jugs to the top.

A left to right traverse.

A slopey left-trending rampline starting in the middle of the Cut & Waste traverse line. Low sit-start then technical.

The obvious challenge right of 'Fairy Head'. Quite committing. Grade?

The giant scoop 10 meters left of Gripmaster.

Step into scoop gaining two well chalked under clings, walk up feet high and leap for rail. Needs many pads and spotters as it is committing and in serious ankle breaking territory.

Previously a long-standing open project prior to Klem's arrival. Originally graded 11, with some people thinking it's still not far off that.

[Not drawn on topo] Start as for Gripmaster, then head right towards Sesame Super 'Highway' via slopey pinches to a jug on the corner. Like it's harder relation - very conditions dependant.

A great two mover. Pretty much a 1-3-6 campus move - but with your feet on (if you get the drift).

Sit starts just right of 'Sesame Superhighway' and climbs the series of jugs to a high finish. Descend via the righthand side.

Sit start at Spanking the Monkeybars.

Big move L along the rail to decent edges. Hold on tight and move through pockets in the roof to match on the slopey lip.

Sit start on underclings below the white rail 2m left of the start of STMB. Climb to a slopey pocket and underclings to make a big move gaining the slopey pinch of STMB and finish as for this problem.

Low sit-start on the bottom-most jug, then head out past the 'handlebar' and onto the big sloper. Now cut out left via a big move to the slopey pinch, up to the pocket - then back right to the break. Match.

Start as for the original problem, then when you get to the big sloper, make a huge dyno for the break. A variety of methods exist.

Pulling off the ground and doing the first move seems the crux. Starting from a sharp L hand pinch, moving the right hand from the start to a shallow undercling, then L up to a slopeing pocket. intermediates exist before the huge ledge finish. 3ish moves?

Takes the left-trending weakness of pockets from a sit-start - on the rightside of the big horizontal. Once the big horizontal is gained, keep traversing all the way left to finish at the pocket (the finish of 'Spanking the Monkeybars')

A big link up. Sit-start as for 'A horse is a horse', then traverse right all the way into the start of 'The Nevin Rule'. Finish up this problem. Route grade of 32.

The final chapter... Start as for 'Spanking the Monkeybars', reverse 'A Horse is a Horse', then finish as for 'The Weill of Fortune'. Route grade of 33.

Sit start on two edges under the rooflet. Reach out to slopers and crimps and make a press out left to the pocket. Big reaches back right gain the big high flake and finish as for The Nevin Rule.

Start underclinging the left side of the scoop feature (just left of the start of The Nevin Rule). Move up to LH incut crimp via tricky kneebars and underclings, gaston edges to meet The Nevin Rule at the high pinch. Finish as for The Nevin Rule.

Sit-start on the horizontal on the right-side of the cave and head up via a sidepull and pinch to the slopers. Dyno for the flat-top jug to finish. Originally given V6.

Ryan

Uhuru Channel static finish!

Sit-start at the base of the hanging arete right of 'The Nevin Rule'. Follow the line up to a good jug via quite a hard 1st and 2nd move off a slopey pinch and a gaston crimp.

A lowish traverse, sit starting on some flat holds down to the right hand side of the boulder. Pull moves left to some under-cut crimps then up to gain a side pull to top out.

Starts as for 'German Motivation' then goes straight up with a biggish move to good holds

Very steep arete on the boulder facing the walking track. Shallow pocket and edge to start, then a dynamic move to a good large pocket/jug, then up arete and onto right face via series of good edges.

Even more committing! The central line up the slab. Technical and scary.

The big overhanging nose, starting on the left and traversing right to a mantle topout.

Starts on the rightside of the prow - right underneath (sit-start) with pockets of your choice. Head directly out to the lip and topout via the mantle. An excellent problem at the grade.

A shorter version of the previous problem, eliminating the low start.

Sit-start under the roof and head out to the lip to the obvious pocket on the slab - then mantle to glory.

The direct finish to the previous problem up a bit of blankness just right of the pocket.

Sit-start right underneath the roof on the big block (handjam). Head directly out to the big edge near the lip, then left across a sloper and good edge to a lefthand sidepull. Dyno up and right for a sloper sidepull in the groove, then slap (or lock) lefthand to the finish jug.

A funny little thing residing behind the 'Font Mantle' Block. Get in there somehow and traverse leftwards across the face to finish up the slight crack.

Start right in the back of the cave and head directly out to the lip, and a very slopey mantle topout. Desperate! Good training for 'Circus Jerkus'...

On the slightly overhanging face right of 'The Font Mantle' block. Sit-start (or crouched!) on a good horizontal jug, then traverse right (staying low) along the lip - then up around the nose to finish on a jug.

Same start as for 'Fallen Cow' - but lock up into good diagonal 'grooves' before heading right around the nose.

A direct line starting with a sit/crouch start halfway out along the Fallen Cow traverseline, then climbing through this to join the finish of 'Carlton' Coldie.

Sit-start under the 'flat' roof just where the XXXX graffiti resides. Sharp pocket and hopeless edge, then up and slightly left, finishing as for 'Fallen Cow'.

Not your average walk-in-the-park V1! 'Steep' - starting off the big 'hanging' fridge (a tad sandy) - then heading up via any holds of your choosing. Finish as for 'Fallen Cow'.

A problem located in the depths of the cave (walk in just right of Railcross)

Highball LH arete on the big boulder just opposite the start of the arete climb 'Golden Showers and Group Sex'. Committing.

Steep problem right of the right arete, ending in a mantle. Grade unknown.

Starts about 3metres left of 'Hot Henry' on the right hand side of big incut ledge. Sit start with a left flat top hold and a right undercling, top out straight up via the 2 crimps.

Starts the same as 'Gobby and the CrayJ'. Traverse right through some smallish holds then topping out using some decent holds in the seam.

Start the same as 'Lukewarm Hank' but instead of topping out continue climbing right through some big moves and top out in the seam left of 'Hot Henry's' Finish.

Climbs the low barrel roof 20m before the line of Old Henry's. Sit-start and using painful pockets, head leftwards diagonally up the wall with ever-stretched out feet. Aim for the slopey gaston and topout shortly thereafter. Rumored to be soft at the grade.

Sit-start at the base of the black streak matching on a big sloper. A dynamic move leads to the good horizontal, then a long RH lock move and onwards up the crimpy face. Highball and a tad committing above a very bad landing, but absolutely classic. Originally given V6 by coming in from the right using a LH gaston (crux) but most people ignore this due to the proximity of the ground (it's hard to stay off it!)

Sit start at back of the cave and climb left around the to finish as for two sleeps

Classic central problem through the cave.

Sit start for Two Sleeps and climb the right side of the cave to an easier exit out right of the roof.

Start as james but from flat edge dyno directly out to slopey lip and mantle.

The arete leading to a mantle on the leftside of the cave. Start matching on the block, then head up via a 'rib' feature, finishing via a mantle topout. An easier (V0) version is to head left at the sloper (thereby missing out the rib feature).

Crawl into the dark cave left of 'Passion' and sit-start on the right matching a big sloper. Traverse left via a massive iron-cross move (hence the name) and finish on the left.

The left most line on the main face. Sit start on good slanting holds and climb the right trending diagonal weakness to mantle over the huge lip.

Start as for 'Passion' and then from the crimps of that problem head right via two more crimps (or pocket) to gain the start of 'Fashion'. Finish up this.

RH right-trending crack weakness. Starts on the low jugs and climbs up the weakness to a crux move reaching up for a gaston pocket. Was massively overgraded at V5 for a long time.

Low sit-start on jugs to a big move for a bad sloper. Crux is gaining the sharp 3-finger pocket, one way or another.

A bum-dragging traverse that looks great but is obviously spoilt by the proximity of the ground (at least you won't hurt yourself!) Traverse from the start of 'Bitch Slap' rightwards all the way to the arete, and topout via a sloper and better lip holds.

Start as for 'Passion' then traverse all the way across the crux of Klapusterperle, through the start of 'Bitch Slap' and finish as for 'Winterkirsch'. Has also been done by finishing up 'Bitch Slap' (Sharik Walker) at no change in grade.

Sit-start around the corner from the main wall at the large jug. Straight up to a RH sidepull, then traverse left across the slopey lip to a very tricky Fontainebleau-like mantle. Can also be done by going left into the finish of 'Winterkirsch' prior to gaining the lip, followed by the mantle. V7 if you do it this way.