Routes in Oceania for selected grade

Start just left of Moby Dick. Scramble up L then traverse R once level with the little roof. Now straight up to a dyno finish.

Pretty much a separate route - straight up to the finish of Horrorscope.

As usual, make sure of your gear when you're this close to the ground. The L crack on the pillar.

Start in the gully R of Bam Bam, on the L wall. Thin crack to ledge.

The seam.

Start: Start on the L side of 'Wuss Wall'.

A badly protected difficult start, which has been done many ways, eases off to nondescript climbing.

Start: Start about 5m R of DL.

You might see him on this route. Delicate and scary. Start: 2m Left of Howling Wolf at the arete.

Up arete to break. Difficult blind step up to top.

The thin line.

Start: Start 2m R of PL.

Start: The tenuous line up the slab 2m right of 'Ball Terrier'.

Start: An equally tenuous line up the slab right of IDKWtCi-D.

Straight up, avoiding using any holds of SD itself.

Start: Start 1m L of SD.

The intermittent crack.

Start: Start in the centre of the wall.

Wonder why they didn't do them both in the same day?

Crack 1m R of Straw Dogs.

The line in the middle.

Start: Start in the middle of the small buttress uphill from 'Deep Freeze Wall'.

Up to horizontal, left 1m, then reach to flake on bulge and up.

Start: Start 1m L of H.

Where strapping stumbled off left into easier ground, step right, past bolt and direct to the top. Enough spice to make you think.

Links the middle section of Polygap into the top of Evans Above via the obvious higher traverse. Reach left from the stance on Megalomaniac to clip first and second bolts of Polygap then head up, verring slightly leftwards. Traverse left via tricky underclings and smears to join Evans Above where it steepens. Twin ropes and or long slings are handy.

Initial moves poorly protected. Bring micro cams, RP's and also some large wires, a 7or8 can help if you're creative. Start 3m R of Mari. Thin flake then R into corner, then stay L of the gully. The RHF takes the groove on the R (21) for the last 10m.

Apparently this route had a peg, however that appears to have fallen out (the missing peg shouldn't stop you from getting on it though!). Take lots of #1 RPs. Often mossy, may need a brush. Start 2m R of Devoid. Finish up the gully, before traversing right to the chains of Electric Warrior.

Poor pro up wall with large scar at 10m. Start 2m R of F.

Wall with poor pro. Start 2m R of IPD.

Pumpy and scary. Wall to join flakes, then go 3m R and finish just L of D. Start 8m L of D.

Up the slab, going R and L a bit. Start just L of FotR.

The slab, scary up high. Start just R of FotR.

Small corner, past BR, to ledge, then continue. Start 2m R of SUYS.

The weakness to the break, traverse L through roof and over. Start just L of JC, off the top of the detached pillar.

Another traverse which needs a strong second. May have been somewhat sanitised by the later bolts of GftP and BE. A very noteworthy ascent for the era by a young Lindorff. Start as for JC.

1. 20m (22) Up JC for 6m then R along subtle traverse line, below SL, to flake. Step down R to pedestal on Cecilia.

2. 30m (22) R to flake, slightly up, then further R to join Frontispiece.

Start off the detached pillar either by leaning across and climbing steeply up, or a committing, but significantly easier leap. Then follow the crackline up the leaning yellow wall, joining the R facing corner at the roof. 1 good FH, 3 manky carrot bolts (don't trust these). Bolted anchor at the top is back from the edge so if you want to lower off them you may trash your rope. It's also ok to step R to the GoB anchor and deal with a bit of sideways swinging.

Committing traverse R gains ledge, then up R and up black wall. Start 10m R and down from Cecilia. Trad anchor on top.

Start 1m R of T. Up the R-leaning flakes, then the face.

An exhausting undertaking up the major line on the wall (left-trending crack). Once graded 20! Steeply left to left leaning flake and poor rest. Step left then up.

Start 10m down R of Copyright in small gully. Up steep limestone-like wall past bolts, and R over bulge, then back left and up to an old wad of cord to lower off. There is also a few more FHs 2-3m R of this line - anyone know what this is?

Starts just right of Rasputin. Short problem past ancient fixed wire. Climb groove to the wire, then using a flake, up to roof and onwards to ledge. A good anchor can be found on the wall above this or there are chains at the top of Tres Hard.

Well chalked bouldery start to large undercling, then up into groove, finishing above little roof. Well protected and classic climbing.

The next 3 routes are on the upper level, access by scrambling down gully from the top to fixed rope and plank. Directly above Tres Hard is this slightly less hard crack.

Thin seam with bolt on next wall down from Pitchfork that looks about 5 grades easier than it actually is. Tenuous and technical and maybe even be 24. Someone go to onsight it and let me know! Lower off.

The first of 2 intermittent cracks above the tiny gully heading down towards Reaper. Up line through overlap then the diagonal line above to anchors on Pritchard's Neuralgia.

Scramble R along the ledge from the block at the start of Pritchard's Neuralgia. Starts up the easy corner, can be done as a sport route but worth taking a medium cam for before the first bolt. Wild overbolting mitigates the dubious jug.

Most certainly Glenn just got the grade mixed up in the first 2 routes. This is V3 and generous at that!

Take the easiest line up the face via plenty of horizontals. Start on the nice blob of rock which is uphill and L of Saraband.

A bit harder. Start 2m R of BMUS. Up via small flake then R-ish.

Up the R side of the buttress. At the head wall head directly up the crack to the right of the arete

Up the R side of the buttress. The DF up the top crack is reachy 24, the 22 way is to climb the breaks R of the arete. Start just R of S.

Tough around roof onto wall and into crackline on L. Start 2m R of the L arete of the west-facing wall, above Armpit.

Start beneath the major crack in the middle of the face. Easily and best climbed in a single pitch, use extenders or double ropes for rope drag mitigation. 25m rap to the ground from the end of the second pitch.

1. 15m (21) The steep crack up to the base of the major sickle crack. Trad belay.

2. 25m (22) Follow the L-curving sickle crack to the top. Double bolt belay.

From the cave at the end of the sickle (of Reaper) traverse 2-3m right and pull over bulge. Follow right leading flake until it ends (ignoring the RBs just to the right), then move right and up past FH and very old piton.

A link up of Reaper and the Direct Finish. From near the finish of the Reaper sickle line (about 5m before you get to the DRB), go up past 2 ringbolts and trad to final FH and (bad) piton on Reaper Direct Finish. This is best done as one mega pitch from the ground. There’s no anchor: the Taste Sensation rap chains are 8m to the right (33m rap), or if you want to lower off to strip the gear it’s ok to reverse to and thread the last ring.

From the 1st belay of Reaper, go up then traverse 4m right into exposed terrain above Incest (past bolt), then head up over bulge to gorgeous hanging slab (2 FHs) to roof. Now traverse R and finish up Wild Oats.

From 1st belay of Reaper, follow Girl Germs to the roof, then pump up the power to pull the lip and onwards to glory. Can do from the ground in one big awesome pitch and lower off Taste Sensation chains with 70m rope.

If you follow the instruction to Chaconne in Lou's guide, you'll probably find this instead. On the small pillar in front of Reaper there's a wall facing the same direction as Reaper Wall. Up the diagonal seam on R side of the face to hard move onto arete and up. TR'd a DF which is better and slightly harder.

The recent addition of a bolt has seen this route suddenly become a lot more popular. The short arete and wall (bolt) just R of 'Scourge'.

A bold journey through technical terrain and good but spaced gear. Start easily (either up the corner or traverse in from the left) to reach a prominent horizontal break, and follow this to the right. Reachy moves lead to a reinforced flake. You can soon reach left to clip a bolt (on Windsong), before arriving at a stance. From here, avoid the temptation to follow the juggy line right around the arete (you will be punished with mediocre climbing and phenomenal rope drag); instead, establish yourself on the arete and enjoy the crisp edges and outrageous exposure to the top. Double ropes are handy.

R on suss rock, up short crack, R below bulge, then straight up to roof and beyond.

Start: Start at the same spot as LE.

Climb the shallow groove with a bolt.

Start: Start just L of SaBB.

Start: Start at the major line jagging it\'s way up the buttress.

1. 20m (22) Tough jamming up first groove to gain jugs, then go L to a belay.

2. 20m (22) Tiring jamming leads up L of the major bulge to a roof.

Head up L from the terrace past 2 bolts. Descend by downclimbing the crack to the R.

Start: Start R of SaBB just above the top of 'Dreadnought Gully', at a terrace on the R.

This one is on the L side of the gully, opposite all the other routes. You need to scramble up the wall opposite Dreadnought to find it. Out the roof on the L, past a hidden BR. Very bold getting to bucket, around which you need to place a long sling for your next piece of pro.

Main left-trending diagonal, beginning with a reachy dynamic start, then trending reachily left across jugs to a cruxy exit, which is just a tad reachy. Short people often find Dreadnought easier. May well be 23.

Start 8m R of NE. Or you can avoid the crux start by starting further R.

1. 25m (22) Hard boulder problem start leading to more moderate crack weakness. At top of crack, veer left up nose below arete.

2. 8m (21) The flake on the arete to the next ledge.

3. 20m (-) Step L onto the front of the arete, spectacular over bulge, then easily to ledge.

4. 22m (-) Easily up. It's also possible (and maybe better) to simply traverse R and find a bollard to rap off.

Start as for Withnail and I. Climb the steep grey wall above to gain the arete proper of Cow Cragg passing a FH on its left (if you move right here it is about grade 20 and still worthwhile). Continue up the arete to join Marwood at the top.

Serious start but finish is worthless. This original probe at the Forbidden Fruit face got Kieran an invition onto the FF team.

Start 4m L of Saracen.

1. 25m (22) Tough poorly protected start to dubious flake-block, then up R to jugs. Easier runout section up to overlap, over bulge and move L to join Saracen. Belay at good ledge on L.

2. 10m (22) The crack on the R side of the yellow wall, through the bulge then R to easy finish and go across to rap anchor for Sandpiper.

Start at a large chimney at the foot of the buttress, then traverse left until at the base of a short overhanging wall easily noted by large white jug, crux, then once past this, up on difficult and sharp layaways through small roof, then arriving at the rap station (26m).

Start: The overhung arete at the base of 'Dunes' buttress, up the offwidth chimney on the right.

The short steep arete 3m R of Scribble. Off ledge into short crack, up to PR, then steep jugs. Start at Dunes' first belay.

Go 8m R uphill from Kays Third Marriage. Take the hand crack through the short roof. Start at Dunes' first belay.

Start 1.5 metres right of Rocky. Up out to the RH arete, take this to the buckets, then go L and up seam to a block.

Climb warily to first ring bolt on good holds (or stick clip if you're from NSW or like your ankles). Move right a move and up to (often seeping) pocket. Continue upwards via bomber gear to a horizontal. Move up past perfect wire slot, then head left into corner past large scar and some tricky moves on slopes to finish. Start 3m L of L.

An unlikely sequence of good moves. After the original crux, continue straight up the wall to the anchors.

As for Slap Happy (crux) to the ledge, then follow the bolts. Better than it looks and manages to stay out of Slap the Philanthropist. Start as for SH.

Short crack, bulge past bolt and gain the ledge near the R end of The Philanthropist's diagonal. Continue straight up the thin crack above the ledge. Start 2m R of L.

Up the slab L of Kincaid to a desperate slap for a jug. Finish L of Kincaid if you can be bothered (contrived). Just toproped off the chains.

Start a metre right of the rock step and follow initial couple of bolts through crux sequence to ledge, step left on ledge and up through proud rock. Small wires and small cams.

A more obvious direct version of Mr Happy. After the first two bolts of Mr Happy head straight up the wall via horizontal with small to medium cams to join the end of Kinkaid.

This is really Visual Laxative VS, joining VL immediately after the first bolt and retroing the crux.

Accidentally retroed but probably benefits from it as it might now actually get climbed. Start 5m R of Morfydd. Shallow groove to ledge then L and up concave face (crux) to second ledge. Weave R then L through juggy overhang then R up seam to finish L of arete. Some loose feeling rock.

Start as for Ali's. Take the L leaning diagonal crack on the R side of the arete, then traverse 5m R to steep jugging.

The arete right of Orc-Wood with 2 bolts

Take the middle of the face between 'Vaunted' and 'Kamikaze', with one bolt.

Start: Start just L of K.

Trend up R almost to the arete, then up past a piton to an interesting finish.

Start: Start as for TO.

Climb the arete with one bolt and not much else pro. Deviating into XI briefly at half height to avoid the widow maker loose flake is sensible (but if you're leading this you're probably a bit short on sense).

Start: Start under the SE arete of 'Fang Buttress', between DA and XI.

Up the steep flake, traverse 5m L under the bulge to a bolt, then over the bulge and up. Pro is ok but quite tricky to get in on lead.

Start: Start 8m R of Fang.

Stick clip bolt then up flake to jugs. At 2nd BR you can go straight up bulges or go L to flake and arete.

Start: Start by walking around the R (north) end of 'Fang Buttress' and going 20m up the gully behind.

Start left of the plaque. Smooth start then into the groove.

Start left of cave (as for Dramp). Left from the bottom of the cave an up a thin seam.

Downgraded to 21 by Simey, so you can probably expect it to be reachy.

Start: Start 5m R of SB.

Short steep face, finish L as for Loboff.

Start: Start just R of D.

1m left of decent route

squeezed between the other two V3s. Hard start at groove drifting right up wall.

Hard start and up face left of arete.

Great moves up slopers on arete. Probably easier than V3 though.

On the trackside of the Pinch Arete boulder. From the flake, head right to corner and up.

Bum dragging traverse, usually done left to right

Up just L of arete. mossy at top