Routes in Oceania for selected grade

Queensland's own mountaineering-style classic that has introduced the climbing experience to many a gibbering bumbly. This has always been the traditional easy route up to The Scrub (below the summit overhangs). Rap stations are present on five of the 8 pitches (Aug. 2019). Most of the rock on the route is quite worn making route-finding easy. Many parties rope up for these 5 pitches, interspersed with unroped scrambling.

Start: 20m R (down the slope) of where the E face walking track meets the rock. Marked "CR".

★★ Caves Route Variant 4 - Caves Route Pitch 1

1. 17m 4 A short pitch that allows the belayer to see roped parties (or top rope from the ground). Traverse out right across big ledges, skirting the vegetation above, then straight up to the DBB.

2. 38m 4 Continue straight up, across big ledges & skirting trees, to the big shoulder & DBB belay.

3. 36m 4 Traverse up R up rock steps, then trend left to ledge with small tree, from here, up the narrowing rock face with surprising exposure to belay ledge (single clip biner) and mouth of Cave 1.

4. 50m 1 Unroped scramble up into Cave 1 & the big Cave 2. Walk to far L side of this.

5. 47m 4 Traverse carefully out L side of cave along the narrow, precipitous ledge, until possible to move up to the terraced slab above. Up steep wall above with no protection to either of 2 rap stations. (The higher being the better option for roped parties.) (A belay is available from one of the trees on the LHS of Cave 2.)

6. 100m 1 Unroped scramble from the belay ledge, up the rock steps up to the scrub, & follow this (worn) track through the scrub till you hit a large rock slab. Head down right to the rock slab & mount this up to the prominent chimney/corner.

7. 35m 4 NOTE: THIS 5m SECTION OF CLIMBING IS ABOUT GRADE 15! Up the sheer vertical face on small but good holds, till possible to mantle into the chimney. Easier now (grade 4) up the chimney & rock face above, crossing ledges to a DBB. (This is the true line, but a log that helped the original party climb into the chimney is no longer there. To avoid this hard section, take the Caves Route Variant - the grade 3 slab, out to the left.)

8. 195m 1 Walk/scramble up the shoulder, up rock ledges & bush, till you hit the West Track (Hiker's track).

*Note: There is also another Caves Route variant that avoids the chimney section which starts right at the base of the chimney by taking a short contour to the right hand side until a large cave is found. Go to the end of the cave and scramble up for about 25 m until the top of the NE face is reached. This second variant is slightly easier than the one described above.

Great beginner's route.

Start as for 'Sickle' and go up this a little way then step left to short ramp then up shallow corner. Climbing it direct is around grade 8, but has no protection.

4 carrots up the slab (take brackets). The first move is tricky for those at the grade. Anchor consists of a solid single D-shackle off a chain.

Hard start, then easy climbing to the ledge.

A direct finish continues up the crack above this ledge at about grade 18.

A pleasant jug-haul arete.

Start: The arete right of the walk-down gully.

Climb the corner system, which these days is laced with long lengths of fixed chains to ease the way for soloing (this being the fastest way to get up to the Bluffs climbing areas). If you do decide to solo up or down it, don't underestimate the polished rock and the deathfall potential; consider using a suitable running tether. Start 15m R of Bygone, under the huge left-facing corner system, behind Fang Buttress.

Climb the obvious corner. Beware of the brown snake that likes the top out jug on the left hand side.

Seriously, beware in summer

Start: often used as the descent route.

A pleasant, low-angled buttress.

Start: Start 20m L of Melville's Cave.

A superb scramble up an exposed rocky ridgeline. Access by walking back along the road from Yellowpinch carpark before heading into the bush towards the ridge. The scramble is more difficult and exposed the more left you stay on the ridge.

An excellent excursion along the ridge of the amazing Yulludunida dyke formation. More akin to walking along the back of a stegosaurus than climbing, but some parties may want to rope up for some of the more exposed sections.

40 min hike in from the car park. As soon as you breach the tree line, head right until you can’t head right anymore (sheer cliff), then follow the ridge line. Alternatively you can join the ridge earlier if you want some steeper climbing (more akin to a grade 5-6). As you ascend the walking trail head directly for the ridge as soon as you can see the rock outcropping. This is shortly after the path hits a ledge with a good lookout. You may need to do a little bush bashing.

You can avoid some of the more bouldery sections but try to keep to the highest point of the ridge to get the most out of the climb. There is a sling at the hardest down climb about ⅔ into the climb. A short 10m rope may be useful here to assist in the descent.

The walk out involves a bit of bush bashing if you follow the ridge to the end. The higher you stay in the crater the less vegetation you will encounter. Aim to zig zag along the bare rocky areas for ease of travel. Aim for 3-4 hours return at a leisurely pace.

Tourist Track. Slippery and well worn. From the carpark, follow the NP signage:

★★ West Track (Tourist Track) 3 - 20230413_115159-sr.jpg

up the increasingly steep track, to the intimidating start (colloquially called "Chicken Rock", because many day-trippers choose to turn back at this point). In the V groove, top left corner, the steep start is about a grade 5 or 6 and access here is slightly overhanging:

★★ West Track (Tourist Track) 3 - Chicken Rock

but an easier start can be found down right, about 15m right of a large tree:

David Duffy on ★★ West Track (Tourist Track) 3 - Chicken Rock

up the sloping face, on good holds, about grade 3. Once this hurdle has been overcome, the remainder of the climbing then becomes an easy scramble at about grade 0-2, to the summit.

The easy climb up the slabby back of 'Owl Pillar' starting off the ledge just left of Midnight Makeout.

10m or so L of Are We Dancer. Vegetated right-trending access ramp (line of least resistance) to the L side of the Sun Bowl sector (with lower off). First FH at about 10m.

A nice day hike up the ridge starting from Yellowpinch Carpark, with the final 1km to the summit offering nice scrambling in a fantastic position. Navigational aids receommmended in case the faint track is lost, especially post-fires.

A classic ridge traverse.

Park at the Dove Lake carpark (arrive early to avoid shuttle bus). Walk the West side of Dove Lake and take the Lake Wilks Track up to the Face Track. Approximately 200m North (Left) on the Face Track a definite (cairned) pad heads uphill (1.5 hours). Alternatively, walk on the east side of the lake and take the track up to Hanson Peak (a left hand turn just near Glacier Rock). Follow this along the ridge line, summitting Hansons peak and linking into the Face Track, all the way until the cairned path that leads off to the left up to the summit of Little Horn. If you take this approach and come to the sign for the Lake Wilks track you have come too far.

Follow steep path to summit of Little Horn, then begin scramble down towards saddle. 1-2 short (<10m) abseils may be advisable depending on conditions. Walk/Scramble across saddle to base of Weindorfer's Tower and a vegetated ledge.

From here, a narrow pad may be visible on the right (West) side leading to exposed scrambling; consider roping up. The route takes the line of resistance over rocks and vegetation, approximately following the line of the ridge.

After the summit of Weindorfer's Tower there is a 23m abseil from a large boulder; tat may be in place. The start of this abseil can be safely scrambled down in good conditions taking you to a Horn that can be slung for an approx. 10m abseil. The route then continues as before, though generally easier and on the left (East) side of the ridge, with one very exposed rocky traverse on the right (West) side.

The route eases as approaching Smithies Peak, then descends slightly to main summit path which is followed to Cradle Mountain summit. Return via summit walking track.

Gear: 50m rope, abseil tat, 10-12 slings, large nuts/hexes. Helmets recommended, climbing shoes unnecessary.

Time: 9-10 hours car to car.

If the weather turns, there are a couple of points where you can bail out fairly easily. This is after descending Little Horn (there is actually a path leading from the saddle to face track) and after abseiling off Weindorfers tower, this would involve a bit of bushbashing, but doesn't look too steep.

An excellent alternative to the Hiker's route. This route has frequent red paint marks from base to summit. A well formed downhill track starting just east from the carpark at S26.89052, E152.88797 will lead to the beginning of the route. From here scramble up easy slabs traversing towards north-west following the marks. The track then climbs straight up for the central part followed by a leftward traverse on easy slabs to a small cave before veering right and up to an exposed and highly scenic finish to the summit.

An alternate finish to this route that goes north at the top (but a bit more exposed) is mapped at https://www.google.com/maps/d/viewer?mid=1ULqnVajNBViUxVymtbjh6jbnrcM&ll=-26.89356304264415%2C152.88713100000007&z=17

Just in case you feel the need to tick an ascent of the stone stairs at the L end of 'Left Main Wall'.

The rightmost deep gully facing the road.

1. Climb first pitch of Guiding Light to large ledge. Belay at left end of ledge near the base of wide chimney.

2. Climb the juggy left face in chimney to join the finish of the original route.

Marked with a faded PE behind the sapling. Single ring bolt half way up slab to cater for significant run out. Tree belay/rap.

Start: Right of 'Venturi'.

First climbed in 1926, this whole section of cliff, including the Modern Traverse and the terrace below, was climbed in the pre-rope era of climbing in Qld. START: RH base of Cave 3, scramble down to a wide dirt ledge, follow this around right & up into Cave 4.

Controversially retrobolted by the Modern Traverse.

It is nice

Up the crack, with a ledge and small pine at half height. A poorly protected alternative finish is further to the R, the arete L of 'Odlid Baggins'.

Start: Start beneath the deep wide crack.

This is the easy alternative to the original Caves Route's Chimney, which, minus the original log, is pretty stiff. Most rock climbers & seasoned bush walkers will choose to climb this unroped, whilst this description is aimed at those roped ascents.

1. 17m 4 Start at the "CR" painted on the rock: climb trending right past the vegetation, then directly up to the DBB belay. A short pitch which provides the opportunity to track anyone you are belaying, or abseil back down & belay them on TR.

   ★★ Caves Route Variant 4 - Caves Route Pitch 1

2. 37m 4 Continue up the ledges, mounting trees, up to the big shoulder & DBB.

3. 36m 4 Head up right from the belay, then left up the concave scoop, to a small ledge with a tree on it, from here, head up the steep, exposed section right to a natural belay ledge & a single clip biner on chains.

4. 48m Unroped scramble up through Cave 1, then left (facing the cliff), to the lh side & belay tree.

5. 49m 4 Scramble carefully over the rock & along the narrow precipitous ledge to the end, then right up the rock slab to the anchors (2 sets of anchors, the higher set being the better for roped parties.)

6. 60m 1 Unroped scramble up the rock terrace, and follow the well beaten path through the scrub to the base of the slab.

7. 55m 4 Climb the slab, directly in front of where the path meets it, to a concave scoop in the rock, from here, head out left delicately on the 45° slab & angle up right to a natural belay ledge

   ★★ Caves Route Variant 4 - Caves Route alternative

   & DBB.

8. 37m 2 Scamble across the sloping ledge, then up the small cliff face at the end to the shoulder & rejoin the original Caves Route.

9. 155m 1 Walk/scramble up the shoulder, through bush & up rock ledges to meet the West Track.

Chossy climb/scramble up the corner. Some good gear if you want.

Awesome scramble to the summit. Consider a light rack and a 60m rope.

From sleepy bay head to mt Amos via Parsons and Dove. Faint white paint marks and cairns help. Much slabbing , mantling, and a few bouldery spots.

The more commonly used access ramp / new carpark. 3m R of 'Wall Thing'. Always soloed. Be careful in the wet

Climb the high, easy angled hand crack. Watch the loose block near the top!

A useful descent route for this part of the cliff.

Start: The chimney to the left of and behind ‘Ivory Stairs’.

Up chimney.

Easy way to access upper routes.

1. 42m (5) Follow the crack to a small overhang (upper crack has foliage growing). Up a juggy wall and then head slightly R to a small belay stance.

2. 35m (2-3) Up the juggy wall, passing rappel bolts, and on to belay at Gods Ledge.

Finish up The Knob, Travellers Slab, Gregs Direct or Traverse of the Gods*

Also known as Peasant's Ridge, this is the easiest route up Mt Barney. From Yellowpinch, follow the road that follows Cronan Creek and skirts the south face. Around 4km hiking will bring you to the entrance for the trail which is clearly signposted. From there, follow the obvious track up the mountain, encountering two very minor technical difficulties at "The Slab" and "The Staircase". Eventually, you will find yourself in East-West Saddle, also known as The Rum Jungle. From here, the ascent to East Peak is relatively straightforward although vague at times. Although this is the easiest route on the mountain, it still requires a long approach and 1000m of vertical gain and loss. As such, it is often underestimated by inexperienced parties - don't go underprepared.

Up the juggy wall on the north face of John's pinnacle, close to Denim Wall. Bad pro and rock but if that doesn't put you off at this grade then it's a nice summit to bag.

Access route.

Starts at bottom of Fly Paper Wall and heads all the the way to the top of main wall. 1. 18m Right side of FPW to stance. 2. 40m Follow slab past overhang then down to belay. 3. 35m Begin up main face to arete, then right to belay ledge. 4. 20m Follow arete all the way to another belay ledge perched above an overhang. 5. 10m Up the wall behind you.

Sit start

widowed routes placeholder

Start 5m L of 'Mantlit'. Marked "D".

Corners.

Start: 10 right of previous or 18m left of track.

Not so much a boulder problem as a dirty grovel under the arete

Up the face 1.5 L of the arete.

Start: STart a few m R of EMP, 1.5m L of the arete.

Climb from right to left onto the main ramp, finish on 2 anchor bolts

Eagle's Ridge is the longest route on Mt Barney, stretching from Lower Portals to East Peak. Follow the spur across Tom's Tum and Isolated Peak before gaining North Peak and proceeding to East Peak. Bring a rope, lots of water, a headlamp, and get ready for a big day out (something between 7 and 12 hours). A rope is not mandatory as all difficulties can be avoided. If you wish to follow the true ridge exactly as it lies, than there is a mandatory rappel off the South West side of Isolated Peak.

Named for the springer spaniel that climbed it. Right side of the low angle slab.

Starts on top of boulder mashed against wall to the left of where the trail meets the main face. 1. (24m) Straight up to big flake. 2. (33m) Continue up till you reach a rightwards weakness and follow to top.

Cossey?

Start: 2m right again.

Climb the broken pinnacle from a stand start. All sides are as easy as each other.

Doh! Up left side of small corner to top.

Start: 1m right again.

Hand crack up the Polish split egg (rap off each side). The boulder is about 15m back from the top of 'Agent Orange Victim', and can be accessed by walking up the gully to the right of it then ducking left through an overhang.

Easy beginner's route, and someone can walk up and check their anchor technique. Walk, run, or hop up the slab just right of walk up.

Begins where the track meets the main face. 1. (35m) Up to ledge then follow left groove to spike. 2. (35m) Continue up to R of cave, over, out and up to top.

Easy ramble up just right of corner.

This is the most popular way to access the Summit Plateau and Crater Lake. Until well into summer, most years, snow blankets the upper mountain. But by autumn the steaming Crater Lake is ringed by stark burnt-orange rocks and dark, ash-covered snowfields – dramatic evidence that the volcano is a restless environment, a place not quite of this world. Although one-way lift tickets up the skifield are available in winter, and during the summer holiday period, first-time visitors may want to walk, if only to gain a better idea of the topography of the mountain: it is not that straightforward. In summer, guided walks begin from the top of the skifield chairlifts, up a scoria track to the Crater Lake. In winter, the short climb to the Summit Plateau from the Whakapapa skifield is many North Islanders’ first true alpine experience. From the carpark you can reach the vicinity of the NZAC Ruapehu Hut in about 90 minutes. Follow Tennents Valley to Hut Flat, and then a poled route climbs up Egmont Ridge behind (west of) the Ruapehu Ski Club lodges onto the western side of Delta Ridge. The hut is on the brow of this ridge at 2040m elevation (grid ref 310138). From here there are two main routes. Note that parts of both routes lie in paths followed by lahars on the three occasions they have been recorded on this side of the mountain. Two of these, in 1969 and 1975, occurred in ‘blue sky’ eruptions. From Delta Corner (the rocky end of Delta Ridge) it’s about another 90 minutes to Glacier Knob. Climb up ‘The Gut’ – a popular ski gully between Knoll Ridge and Restful Ridge – and continue beyond straight up the broad valley to the obvious knob on the skyline. Alternatively, just before the top sidle up and slightly to the climber’s left (east) to reach The Notch. This gives direct access to the Summit Plateau. In winter, watch for snow loading from the westerly quarter. From Glacier Knob it’s worth going south along the ridge to The Dome at 2672m. Here you overlook Crater Lake, and beyond is Tahurangi, the true summit of Ruapehu. Dome Shelter is a small emergency shelter, not intended for overnight use, on top of The Dome at grid ref 313113. During winter the door is often buried by snow and ice, so there is a hatch in the roof for emergency access. This shelter will be removed ‘when it falls due for replacement’. Check with DoC on its current status

Sure Punks was influential, but these route names are getting ridiculous!

Start: Start just R of DPitMotR and just L of 'Cypress'.

Standard descent route off Single Cone. Due to it's aspect it is not uncommon to find snow in the gully, even in Summer. Bolted belays.

There is now an easy scramble down on the ledges ~12m climber's right of the gully that leads to DBA that allows for a single 30m rappel to the bottom of the gully. Useful in shoulder seasons if crossing the iced/snow gully to get to other rap stations is difficult.

Directly in front of Lightbox 57. Easiest Climb at KP. Bolt is level with anchor, perfect for beginners to practice setting up and cleaning anchors.

The short, left hand crack in the corner to cave. Down-climb to clean.

The short, right hand crack in the corner to cave. Down-climb to clean.

Climb the lovely slab on the top tier of the crag using chicken-heads.

From the carpark you can reach the vicinity of the NZAC Ruapehu Hut in about 90 minutes. Follow Tennents Valley to Hut Flat, and then a poled route climbs up Egmont Ridge behind (west of) the Ruapehu Ski Club lodges onto the western side of Delta Ridge. The hut is on the brow of this ridge at 2040m elevation (grid ref 310138). From here there are two main routes. Note that parts of both routes lie in paths followed by lahars on the three occasions they have been recorded on this side of the mountain. Two of these, in 1969 and 1975, occurred in ‘blue sky’ eruptions. From Delta Corner climb to the south-west, through the ‘Cornice Bowl’ to reach the top of the Far West T-bar (300m climb, about 45 minutes). From here, continue up the wide valley to reach The Col between The Dome and Paretetaitonga (a further 300m, another 45 minutes). It is a short climb from the Col to the Dome, best made by continuing around underneath and then back up the eastern ridge. In poor visibility the Glacier Knob route is a better descent; when descending the Whakapapa Glacier care needs to be taken to head north-northeast so as to regain the skifield. Failure to do this will leave you amidst the exposed bluffs of the upper Whakapapaiti valley – a long long way from anywhere. The Whakapapa Glacier formerly filled the upper reaches of the valley leading to The Col. Fifty years ago, on April 2, 1954, crevasses across the upper glacier forced Tom and Doris Barcham hard under Paretetaitonga, and then under the Dome to traverse Pyramid. Finally, on Tahurangi they met ‘very steep hard compacted ash. Cut many steps!’ Earlier that same year, New Zealand Canoeing Association members carried a rubber dingy up to explore Crater Lake. Although people have swum in the lake, with a fairly constant acidity of pH 1 this cannot be recommended. There is a story, possibly apocryphal, about a boat once kept near the crater for research purposes. Over time, the acidity ate away at the nails holding the craft together until on one fateful voyage . . .

access the mountain from what is now the standard approach route through Kea Basin, ascending the Birley Glacier and through Wright Col

Easy up left side of scoop

Easy up right side of scoop

Scramble the big ledge staircase, top out through obvious corner.

Not really a climb, but a handy access route from the picnic rock to the base of the boulders.

Straight up the big features.

Stand start the diagonal crack

Straight up. Even easier warm-up.

Walk up the road next to Cronan Creek past South Ridge trail head, until Egans Creek has been crossed, then walk another 200m. Immediately before the next creek crossing, ascend the spur on your right (marked by a star picket Nov 2022). A gentle incline on a footpad followed by some steep scrub bashing will bring you to Savages Peak. There are fantastic views from here. The route turns north and then north east towards West Peak along an enjoyable razorback outcrop and a jump over the void at the top of the rocky ridge is the highlight of this section. The ascent up West Peak is made through a narrow gully that is the crux of the route and needs to be done with care. In no time West Peak summit is reached.

Overall, Savages Knoll at the crest of this ridge and the razorback route that leads to West Peak are quite spectacular and yield some unique views of East and West Peak.

A fun scramble, good option for quick access to the Jaws area.

Obvious gully

The trench. Marked with a square and an 'L' on the left side at the base.