Routes in Slovenia for selected grade

Lots of old pitons in the route. The main pitch has a big crack, good to have a Cam #3.

The amount of equipment needed depends on each individual climber and his need for protection (mental condition). However, it is definitely recommended that you enter the wall at least with basic mountaineering equipment.

The route is not equipped.

Entry Entrance through a deep gutter - chimney.

The route runs in the right part of the north wall. It offers a pleasant climb of moderate difficulty on a fairly good scale. Above it joins Severni raz, with which the last two stretches have in common.

Entry In the ravine, which leads below the Severni raz, we climb another 20m. We enter the ramp on the left.

Descent On the way to the top of M. Mojstrovka or down the Hanzova a) along the Hanzova to the end b) between NŠG and M. Mojstrovka along the path to Vršič

Entrance 30 m to the right of the western ravine. After the dismembered overhanging wall into the abyss below the overhang. Left along the shaft 15 m, then straight up over the overhang into the lighter world (a medium-sized pin is recommended for protection at this point, preferably two). 60 m to the right and up over the slabs behind the arete/ridge, then to the left and over the overhang into the ravine. Continue along the ravine to the edge of the wall.

Entry In the direction of West ridge along the ravine and scree up to the saddle. We then descend to the other side approximately 50 m down into the entrance to the left corner of the roof (which is halfway up the wall).

Descent Left down the Hanseatic path to the saddle between Mala Mojstrovka and Nad Šitom Glavo. Then we turn right down towards Vršič and soon we come across a well-trodden path that leads us to the scree below Grebenc and further towards Tičarjev dom to Vršič.

https://www.slovenskestene.si/smer/smer-debelakove/

https://www.bergsteigen.com/touren/klettern/smer-debelakove-grosse-mojstrovka/

http://www.primorskestene.com/?mod=catalog&id=652&action=viewRout&action_id=87&language=sl&lang=sl

https://gorja.net/putopisi/256/velika-baba-nova-centralna-smer/

https://www.plezanje.net/plezalisce/velika-baba-zahodna-stena/smer/nova-centralna-smer

Bring 70m long rope as a few anchor points are more than 60m apart. Or be prepared to build your own anchor point.

It is a long route, so calculate between 6-9 hours of climbing, depending on your speed and traffic (it is a popular route, can be busy on summer weekends).

https://www.slovenskestene.si/smer/juzni-raz/

Sit start