Routes in Paarl Rock for selected grade

Climb the finger crack 5m right of The Illearth Stone, continuing up diagonally right and then to the top.

Climb up the right side of the arête.

Start below the Y-shaped crack system.

1. Move up the chute taking the left-hand break halfway up, continue on to stance amongst several blocks above.

2. Climb the chute on the left for 8m (above right is a 30cm wide ledge). Chimney up with your back towards the ledge until sitting on the ledge. Wriggle along on your bum until you can reach up left for a flake, pull up and traverse right into another groove.

Start below the Y-shaped crack system.

1. Climb the chute taking the right-hand branch.

2. Move right up a vague crack and on to the summit.

1. 5 bolts

2. 7 bolts

3. 2 bolts

4. 3 bolts

5. 4 bolts

6. 6 bolts

Start: As for Josef's Birthday Party.

1. Climb the dyke until it eases off and you can see where the second pitch (a traverse) breaks to the right. A belay is found higher up the dyke.

2. Traverse right to a small stance and (bad) crack for a (useless) peg.

3. Do an easy traverse up and to the right to reach a large dyke / chute.

4. Follow the chute until it steepens abruptly.

5. Continue up the chute or creep up the right-hand wall to the ramp above.

6. Climb the ramp to the crest.

7. Six meters left of the final pitch of Weasel there are some small holds which can be used to pull up to the top.

1. 4 bolts. Climb down diagonally left to the little garden where you'll find the record book.

2. 1 bolt. Climb diagonally up to the stance of Stairway to Heaven.

3. 4 bolts. Climb diagonally up to anchors.

4. Abseil to the ledge below

5. 4 bolts. Follow the leaning pillar up and left.

6. Walk across the slab to stance at a flake at the highest point.

7. 3 bolts. Slab walk down to a little garden in a gully.

8. 1 bolt. Walk diagonally up to a big garden.

9. Abseil to ledge

10. 4 bolts. Climb diagonally down to the terrace above the Parklife Wall

11. Walk slightly diagonally left to a rest camp among to some bushes.

12. Walk diagonally left to a stance with an anchor.

13. 4 bolts. Climb diagonally left to a stance.

14. 3 bolts. Move diagonally left and up.

15. Walk easily up to the horizontal crack and up.

Start: 15m left of Carlito's Route, 4m right of a little quartz knob. Climb (solo) the slab moving through a first and then second bulge in the rock.

"Not sure what this was supposed to be?"

Start by aiding (A1) up on three well camouflaged studs (bolt without hanger) to reach a twin crack system. From here free climb up. Old bolts!

"BEWARE!! A true alpine adventure, only for experienced climbers!" Start: About 50m right of Wonderland is a large gully system.

1. Climb the ramp / crack, then traverse left into gully, moving past a chockstone to belay from another higher up.

2. Continue up the chimney until a 'hidden valley' is reached.

3. Climb the ramp on the left, then move diagonally left up the slab into a chute, and follow this up to belay from a rock in a large cubby.

4. Follow the easy slab on the right up to another cubby above.

5. 1 Bolt. Move right heading for a ramp with small holds, carefully choosing your route over this steep bit, making your way to a bolt further up and then on to a bolted stance about 20m higher.

6: Scramble to the top.

Gear: Large hexes are useful on the first 2 pitches.

Solo. No bolts. Start to the left of Gecko, on top a grouping of rocks.

1. Climb the slab straight up towards a distinct crack / flake after 15m join Dyke's 2nd pitch (ignore bolts) which leads up to the large plateau above.

2. Climb the furthermost crack to the right (the easy recess just to the right is the "Gordon's Rock Scramble") to a ledge, on past a tree and up slabs to the summit.

Troll and Dyke overlap for Dykes 2nd pitch.

Starts left of Dyke, but crosses shortly after the start.

1. 8 bolts

2. 3 bolts

The obvious left-leaning dyke.

1. 7 bolts and chains

2. 3 bolts and chains

Solo, no protection. Take off from a rock 4m to the right of Dyke. Climb up to a crack / flake and continue straight up to the top. An easier variation moves out slightly left from the flake.

First pitch ends at the button.

1. 8 bolts

2. 7 bolts

Partially bolted. Climbs the slab right of Belly Button Brigade, with two bolts protecting the steeper rock lower down and continuing unprotected to the top. Start a little ways up the gully or your belayer will run out of rope near the top.

Solo. No bolts.

Just right of a small wooded gully there is a very easy looking slab.

1. Climb the slab past a tree to the top of the block. Step off the block (possible walk-off).

2. On the left close to the block, near a patch of black rock, is a little edge; using the edge continue straight up.

"Strange route but worth it for the amazing headwall crack above!" Climb the tree to a bolt, get on the wall and climb up to a crack, then diagonally left using edges to a bolt. Aid (A0) through the overhanging crack using 2 bolts and continue climbing the crack when you can place the first piece of gear.

Gear: Slings, small to medium cams, rack of nuts and extra mid-range nuts. Double ropes help reduce rope drag.