Routes in South Africa for selected grade

This gully provides a pleasant descent route. Two abseils of 20m and 14m from big yellowwood trees are required during the descent.

1. 21A1 Climb the corner under the big square roof and rail out left (pulling on cams) to the continuation crack. Hanging stance in the crack to the right and just above a tree.

2. 17 Follow the crack straight to the top.

Begin just left of 'Haak-en Steek'. From the second grey grassy sloping slab walk onto the broad ledge on the right about 15m above the stream.

1. 20m 7 Move up 1 m, traverse to the right 2 or 3m to a blunt nose. Climb up this nose 11 m, move slightly left on broad ledge and up another 4m onto the big ledge.

2. 10m 7 Climb over the branches of a stamvrug tree to the right into a chimney which is climbed for 5m, and emerge right onto a good ledge.

3. 15m 7 Start at the right end of a ledge climbing up over two blocks. Move left towards the chimney and climb up the blocks to the top.

The climb is on a prominent buttress at the corner formed by the main kloof and the wooded gully opposite 'Trident Ridge'. Variations to the right and left are possible. Ascend the buttress to a small pinnacle, thence directly to top of krantz.

No Description.

At the left hand side of the smooth rock wall on which 'Lifebuoy', 'Shady Overhang' and 'Bat's Overhang' are situated. The route follows an obvious line immediately to the left of the smooth rock wall.

An easier start is up the deeper recess about 5m left of the smooth face.

A more difficult first pitch 13 is up the shallow recess about 1,5m left of the smooth face. From the belay practice ledge (large block here) continue on up right-angled recess.

Crack/chimney with large wedged block 12m downstream from 'Convalescence'. The climb finishes through the first obvious break in the overhangs to the right of 'Convalescence'.

1. 18m 7 Follow crack to block (one can pass between block and face). Gain top of block via its right hand face. Continue up nose, starting a few meters to right of stance on large ledge.

2. 15m 7 It is possible , by ascending small white recess on right side of face, to pass to the right of the main overhangs.

At the upper reaches of Trident Kloof a steep grassy gully enters the kloof on the right side opposite the entrance of a well-wooded side kloof on the left side. This gully is bounded on the downstream side by a steep rock wall about 40m long terminating in 'Trident Chimney'. Starting at a point near the lower portion of the gully where it reaches the bottom of Trident kloof, the climb goes up the main rock face adjacent to the ridge bounding the gully. The route is not well defined and a fair amount of variation is possible, becoming more difficult downstream.

The start is from approximately the same position as for 'Easy Option'. Having gained the rocky ledge about 9m above stream bed follow this to its left extremity from where a 3,5m wide slab inclined at an easy angle slopes up almost to the summit. The route lies on this slab all the way to the top.

The climb starts in the middle of a small face set at right-angles to the main kloof, immediately after the first narrow part of the kloof, after the junction with the side kloof on the true left side.

1. [7] 16m

   Climb a crack about 0,5m wide, in which is a large root. The first 6m is grade 7, after which the crack eases off and the next 10m is 5/6 which leads onto a sloping grassy ledge with a big tree.

2. 17m 7 Continue the same line, behind the tree and into the recess; at the second tree, more pleasant moves are made by climbing the face on the left of the recess, although the recess may also be climbed. 17m of grade 7 rock and scrambling to top.

From the point at which Rock and Castle gullies join. traverse left(downstream) on to main kloof face. After traversing 45m, ascend 45m to top by any of several possibilities up a recess.

In the main kloof downstream of Knight Gully a long pool extends the whole width of the kloof, so that it is necessary to wade to cross it. This section of the kloof can be negotiated in either direction, and wading avoided, by ascending the right hand wall of the kloof to a ledge about 12m above the pool. Ascend to the ledge at the downstream end is assisted by "monkey ropes" hanging to a rock step at bed level. A traverse along this ledge for the whole length of the pool is possible.

50m downstream on a face opposite the pinnacle is a large and obvious 30m chimney which provides an easy climb.

The start of the climb is marked by the same pinnacle referred to under 'Pink Corner'. The pinnacle is about 15m high and gullies lead up the back of it at either side to form a little neck about 2m below the summit and a gap of about 3m between the top of the pinnacle and the rock face. Start on the left of the pinnacle and climb to the neck below its summit against the main face. A small 3m face then leads to a gully which runs up diagonally to the left for 30m. Follow this gully to the foot of a chimney which is climbed for 8m to a stance on the right wall 3m above a tree. Crossing to the left side 9m of climbing leads round the corner up a subsidiary recess to the foot of a tree, whence easy rocks lead to the top.

An easy rock climb about 100m to left of 'PINNACLE WALL.

Commences on left of a huge "Sentinel" then a long traverse to the right follows after which the route of least resistance is taken up a bushy gully. Permits much variation in the upper sections. A grade 8 variation of this climb may be made by keeping to the face on the right after the traverse. Difficulty can be further increased if so desired.

An obvious gully 18m to the left of 'Needle Crag' and ascending diagonally.

On descending bear to the extreme right, beyond a small rock ridge halfway down. A tree marks the start of the descent.

This is one of the several easy routes on the western end of the Dome where the rock is broken and lies back at an easier angle.

Start in a broad upstream-facing recess beneath the first high crag encountered when moving upstream from Junction Pools.

1. [7] 15m

   Climb the recess and emerge through a gap in a pile of wedged blocks.

2. [6] 25m

   Ad lib up the knobby faces directly above the stance.

Above the confluence of the two streams in Tonquani. About 110m east of a landslide on a noticeable formation where the lower half of the rock face projects out of the krantz forming a buttress while the upper half over the same length lags further back thus leaving a terrace which stands well out over high bush on the slope.

1. [7] 4.5m

   Up in chimney on left inside corner of buttress then left above chockstone on to easy rock where a good belay is found a few metres higher.

2. 25m 7 An easy scramble to the terrace over loose boulders. Keep right. This pitch can be started at various points. The object is a horizontal crack leading into a recessed corner on right hand half of face. This corner brings the climber to left end of a ledge which runs across the face 4,5m below the top. Belay.

3. ?m 5 A walk or crawl to the other end of the ledge and over masses of chockstones to the top.

The ridge or buttress forming the downstream boundary of Short Gully.

1. [7] 18m

   Follow the corner ridge to the first belay point on a block. An alternative route to this point commences about 6m downstream from the corner.

2. [7] 25m

   Continue on the line of the ridge bearing slightly left into shallow recess then up a crack for about 4,5m to another block belay.

3. 15m 6 Scramble to top.

Commences in an obvious recess or crack at ground level at the traditional meet point. Above this point a number of grade 8 routes present themselves.

The ridge forms the right hand edge of the descent gully between 'Scandal' and 'Deluge'.

1. 43m 7 The route goes straight up the ridge.

An easy route in the deep gully about 20m upstream of the Cedarberg / Lower Tonquani junction.

Starts opposite a large dead-looking tree with a hollow trunk in the centre of the kloof. Opposite Sorrento.

1. Ascend slight recess (6m) to the left end of a large sloping grassy ledge. Continue op on ridge on left of the massive recess above the grassy ledge. Continue to a large (6x1m) ledge and climb a 2m crack on the right side of the ledge to a smaller ledge.

2. From the left side of the ledge climb the face to the top. Keep left as far as possible in an exposed position. At some point traverse left on 30 cm wide ledge and continue to the top. Climb the chunky overhanging rock above the arch visible from the ground.

Scramble 18m up right side of gully to point where grey slab (forming the square back of the large recess referred to in FROG FACE and RIGHT ANGLE) meets the right hand ridge of the recess.

1. 30m 7 Ascend corner between back face and right hand ridge to tree belays below overhang.

2. 18m 7 Climb right hand face to top.

Situated 10m downstream of COMANICI a direct clean route is available, avoiding grade 5 vegetated rock on the left and, higher up, on the right.

1. 44m 7 Climb straight up face (or on corner) for full rope length.

2. 8m 7 Scramble out straight up (5) or more enjoyably, walk 20m right behind a stubby pinnacle and climb short chimney.

Note: The climb provides a pleasant beginners route on clean rock with reasonable exposure for the grade of climbing. Spectacular views of the A2 section of COMANICI can be obtained from the final pitch, so take your camera.

The climb is on the left side of the kloof upstream from PINNACLE CHIMNEY on the corner formed by the descent gully and starts at an old well-constructed fireplace.

1. 16m 7 Climb the face bearing right to an upright sharp--edged rock. Go round this to the right then traverse left over the top and up to a 10m wide grassy ledge.

2. 17m 7 Climb up the face and later to the right of the buttress which gives way to large blocks and ledges finishing up on a squat block-like pinnacle to the right of a wide shelf separating it from the main buttress.

Commence 25m downstream from SLOB-A-GOB and 6m left of THURSDAY SPECIAL on broken rock with a slight recess.

1. 30m 7 Ascend the recess for 15m to a grassy slope. Traverse right, then continue up the line of least resistance to the shady tree mentioned in the second pitch of THURSDAY SPECIAL.

2. 14m 7 Climb from the tree in the corner up to the overhang. Move left and around the corner. Follow the ridge to the top.

Climb in the recess at the left of the black-streaked rock at water level. This recess contains the start of TOP GEAR and KLEINBOOI. Start in the extreme left-hand corner. [A – 17]

1. 30m 7 Climb the easy rock to the left of an overhang at 15m. Then continue to the left of the overhang to a large tree. Move up to a small overhang with a root under it. Rail right on to the arête and then to the top.

Commences about 15m downstream of RAF CHINK below a prominent cave.

1. 9m 7 Start over stream and proceed up to cave.

2. 18m 7 Continue up right-hand side of cave in corner. A grade 13 variation starts to the left of cave and traverses over roof of cave.

3. 15m 7 Chimney immediately above second pitch.

From the normal gathering point at the bottom of GROOTKLOOF GULLY walk up the gully for 3m. Traverse left and then diagonally upwards about 9m (still walking). The climb starts at the bottom of a low open book recess. There is a small cubbyhole at the bottom of this recess (a larger overhanging recess is to the left).

1. 15m 7 Climb the open book about 4m and move right and upwards around a steep section onto an easy ridge of large steps and trees to stance below next face.

2. 12m 5 Ascend grey rock, bearing right to avoid steep red face, onto sloping grass ledge 9m wide.

3. 14m 7 Climb 3m in a corner, then traverse left over the top of a square block to a corner about 2,5m away. Ascend the recess, where there is one harder move, and continue up and slightly right to a small platform with a tree as belay.

4. 8m 7 Move to the left into a gully and climb up the side under the tree, traversing to the right over stance at end of previous pitch, continue up through a break, move to right under steep rocks and cross over top of chimney to finish of climb at a point where a small gully gives a walking route to the top of the kloof.

This gully affords a convenient abseil route into the kloof for CLARION and other climbs in the vicinity.

This climb follows a gully recess 15m up from the STRAIGHT EDGE corner. After ascending the gully for 18m, bear generally right to end at the same point as VARIETY. It is also possible but more difficult to move out left higher up, along a traverse on the left hand wall.

Start higher up the kloof, as for start of PINNACLE NORTH.

1. 25m 7 After scrambling up from the riverbed 10m move right past start of ROUGH ROCK RECESS, which climb is in recess, and climb grey rock to a good tree and up again to big nettle tree, 10m.

2. 20m 7 Traverse to right and climb easy gully, then scramble to large tree set in a corner far back from stream.

3. 30m 7 Climb up for 4m and then move left 3m and climb round big rock blocks and up recess to big stance behind nettle tree.

4. 25m 7 Move to crack as far left as possible and climb easy crack to top.

Above the lower pool a boulder blocks the kloof. This provides a means of escape to the left when going down the kloof by a climb of 18m on roots and ridge.

This is a route starting about 10m below Middle Gully Right and sloping back at an easy angle except for the final 6m.

Commence in Great Gully at its junction with the main kloof.

1. 12m 7 Climb recess behind a 35cm wide smooth blackish tree. Bear slightly left to large sloping ledge.

2. 10m 5 Traverse left and ascend a bush covered recess to a tree.

3. 12m 7 Climb through recess on right to a triangular patch of grass and a small tree.

Note: Pitches 2 and 3 are seldom climbed and the variation below is the more usual route.

Variation:

2 & 3. 25m 10 Instead of traversing left, climb directly up to small tree in recess. Move right onto nose and up diagonally right into a brown recess. Climb recess past a stamvrug tree. Continue up and left over blocks and step left under nose to triangular patch of grass.

4a 25m 7 Climb crack at back of ledge and move left to enter final chimney to top.

Start at end of long earth ramp which commences about 50m above the junction of Middle Gully, just downstream of an exceptionally large chockstone blocking the kloof.

1. 12m 7 Start at the highest point of the earth ramp and traverse right for 6m past a small nose, then climb recess to a tree.

2. 18m 5 Traverse left along an upward sloping ledge into the bottom of a very narrow chimney behind a large block.

3. 8m 7 Climb chimney.

4. 9m 7 Climb sloping recess.

Variations: 2a. 6m 8 Move up leftwards then back right along a ramp to a block belay. 3a. 22m 15 Traverse up right, round the arete and up a bulging crack. Step left and up a shallow corner crack to the top. 4a. 15m 10 Traverse round a nose on the right and climb a crack in an exposed position.

On the upper band of rock. Climb the pillar of rocks to the left of Sunshine Face.

Start at the large recess/break. After the second bolt climb out right to gain the smooth slab which is followed to lower-offs.

Tagged. Major corner on the left of the Creche. Opened by 'Arielle' on her 9th birthday. Climb to the anchors under the roof.

A direct way to the 3 U-bolt 'Max' anchors. Start up the faint crack 1m left of 'Crouching Tiger' tree. After 4 U-bolts, trend right onto 'Crouching Tiger' crack.

Far right edge of the face with 'Les Trois Meufs'

Juggy face.

Climb the very blunt arete -pretty cool, but high.

Climb the arete.

Sit-start with both hands in scoop. CD to TO.

Sit-start, climb the juggy layback crack, CDR to TO.

The route lies to the right of the amphitheatre on the Central Turret. It follows a prominent rib that merges into the face halfway up and thereafter it ascends the face above. The first pitch commences on the left of the rib. Scramble up 6o feet to the bottom of two recesses.

1. 80 feet 'F inf.': Ascend the left-hand recess and pass through the bush to a broad ledge.

2. 85 feet 'F': A short distance to the left ascend a large block. Traverse to the left along the top of the block and climb up to a stance (piton).

3. 60 feet 'F: Ascend the recess by continuing past a possible line of traverse to the right until a good handrail is reached. Traverse to the right and continue up to a corner and large block.

4. and pitch 5 - 240 feet 'E': Walk round to the Crest of the rib and climbs straight up to a broad ledge below some overhangs.

5. Same as pitch 4.

6. 100 feet 'E inf.': Climbs to a stance visible on the right-hand skyline sonic 60 feet above the ledge (bush). An attempt was made to climb directly above the stance, but was abandoned owing to a dangerously loose block. Presumably this was the route followed by Mamacos and Schaff.

7. 60 feet 'A2': Two recesses will be noticed above. Climb up a few feet and traverse to the base of the left-hand one. Ascend the recess (s pitons) and overcome the bulge (2 pitons left in place) to reach an étrier stance next to another loose block.

8. 120 feet 'F sup.': This pitch is extremely exposed. Traverse to the right for 25 feet into the recess. Climb up the recess to the handrail and then traverse to the right, past the abseil cord, to a small stance. The strata and grips are all sloping the wrong way.

9. 40 feet 'F sup.': A thin, overhanging slit is visible on the skyline above and to the right. Climb up through this slit to a hidden stance.

10. 120 feet of scrambling upwards to the right takes one to a broad ledge. Walk left for about 300 feet to an obvious break.

11. 50 feet 'E': Climb up the recess and exit to the right to a stance below a bush.

12. 120 feet 'F: Continue past the bush and then move left into a gully on rounded grips.

Time for ascent: 8 hours.

Start by aiding (A1) up on three well camouflaged studs (bolt without hanger) to reach a twin crack system. From here free climb up. Old bolts!

"Strange route but worth it for the amazing headwall crack above!" Climb the tree to a bolt, get on the wall and climb up to a crack, then diagonally left using edges to a bolt. Aid (A0) through the overhanging crack using 2 bolts and continue climbing the crack when you can place the first piece of gear.

Gear: Slings, small to medium cams, rack of nuts and extra mid-range nuts. Double ropes help reduce rope drag.

Climb up the juggy slab any way you want.

Climb the slabby arête.