Routes in South Africa for selected grade

Has one bolt and climbs a ridiculously thin seam through a bulge/roof.

A complex and sequential sport journey, not a give away at its grade! It was the first 31 in the country even though there was no 30 yet at the time. The direct start is grade 32.

Starts a few metres downstream of Tomahawk, off a large triangular rock. An intense start to a rest then a headwall with just enough holds on it. This sequence is a gift from god, totally brilliant.

Involves a large dynamic one move wonder crux. Falco will buy a case of beer for the 1st person to repeat the line.

knee pads recommended

Eliminate

Stand start below the blunt arete. Climb this using tricky lay backs and edges and top out. Avoid the sharp arete on the right...

Sit start version of out of time. Do not use the protruding rock.Start on a sloper moving up onto the face.Top out.

Starts on a boulder then a journey with 3 crowd-pleasing roofs. A must-do! MCSA bolts.

Direct version of 'Stitch it'. From the obvious slopey right hand side pull keep going straight up, slightly left on small holds. Leave the chalk bag behind. A power test-piece.

Starts off the boulder. Climb up and pre-clip the 2nd draw. Dead-point your way to the chains.

Start up 'Monster' and move right at the 4th bolt. Some funky moves through the white roof, get a rest in the 'man trap' then finger jugs diagonally to the chains. 70 m rope needed. Low in the grade if you use all the latest tricks. Use slings on the bolts below the roof to reduce drag.

Climb 'Chocolate Éclair' then continue over the roof with a grunt, then up the headwall. Some very satisfying and crimptastic moves. The route remains dry during heavy rain.

Starts off the same ledge as 'Tokolosie', or from the ground. Up the orange vertical wall past hard moves including a very defensive little hold, take a rest at the ledge then up the leaning headwall via some real sequency climbing. Don‟t get butchered. Solid at the grade.

The one that killed the 'Jabberwocky'. Crimpy and gymnastic climbing to the right of 'Jabberwocky', shares first bolt with 'Hell Yeah'. An unbelievable climb, one of best sport pitches in SA. Need a 70 m rope.

Starts 6m right of 'Snapdragon' and tackles the lovely looking smooth open corner using some rather small holds. Hard for the short.

Some bolts on the blank face above a ledge, left of 'Joy Division'.

Takes the line up the middle of the face on small holds. Superbly technical.

Start next to a rock on the ground on your right, move left onto Dynomite and finish off

Start as for Hold the Chutney, but move up and rightwards to top out.

Another John Wessels spotted boulder. Start next to the small sapling power up and rightwards to finish on the arete. Hard at the grade.

Start as for E.C and traverse right across the boulder.

This problem was found by John Wessels, arguably the best 7B in Kaapsehoop! Start at the bottom, with a sharp rock jutting out. Campus start to doing moves onto slopers at the lip.

Start right hand on an edge and left hand on an awkward sidepull, traverse left on the boulder all the way ending on good holds to top out.

Start as for C.J, but traverse left and cross under pulling into the face on the other side of the boulder. Climb thinly up the face.

The 10 metre highball situated at the valley onward from Madam butterfly. Slopey pockets take you at the top. It remains un-repeated after being opened more than 10 years ago.

Sit start. Left hand on corner jug and right hand on an undercling in the back corner. Traverse right andtop out with a dynamic move up to a decent sloper with a lot of texture on it.

Climbs name come from the black heart you climb past.

Sit low on obvious jug and climb left and do a massive dyno to a perfect edge on the arete. Amazing.

Start to the right of Land claim. Start right hand on tiny undercling and left hand on flat undercling thats high. Do a big move up and right to jug.MORPHO FA Evan Margetts

Start on the slab on good jugs to the far right. Climb left and awkwardly on good holds and do a hard, big move to get through the gap and finish straight up overhang. Long and epic.

Sit start on good crimps. Go straight up.

Sit start on obvious low pedestal jug and climb up low roof.

Short and bouldery power climbing through a 40 degree wall involving multiple varied cruxes.

Sit down start, left hand diagonal pinch/crimp, right hand small low sidepull, up to a diagonal edge and up slightly to the right in scoop. The starting grip for the left hand has got smaller over time and thus is solid at its grade!

Start standing with left on a good edge and right on a small crimp, dyno up to edge slightly to the right and top out tending left. Can rip your right hand tape the joints to be safe.

Start standing in a scoop with your right in an undercling pocket at head height and your left in a small gaston lower down. Move up to a pocket and finish on jug above the pockets.

Sit start with undercling for left and right in a one finger pocket inside the heuco. Move up to an edge on the right, take pockets and heucos to the bush. The big heuco on the right may need to be off-route.

Sit start if you can with your arms splayed below CHINESE PUZZLE TRAVERSE, starts with two sidepulls, up far to a big edge. Traverse to the top of CHINESE PUZZLE.

Sit start using diagonal break for hands. Move straight up to another diagonal edge and TO.

Sit start, Right hand on a crimp, left up to crimpy gaston, right to the slopey crimp, left to crimpy gaston. Top out on the flat hold ignoring the arete.

Sheldon Smith

Start on same crimps as for The Handbag but climb straight up to TO.

Beta Video

Video

Sitstart on the split crescent shaped boulder near the graffiti and do a tricky stand to the horizontal ledge. Traverse right all the way around the boulder, staying low and never using the top holds. Stay low on the slopey overhung finale using devious heel-hookery until the crux (last moves to pass the corner and exit on dark grey rock).

Landry Lushima

Bold and exposed top out

Sitstart using jugs next to the tree. Traverse right, staying low under the first roof, through the open book and crux corner. Continue right, staying low around the next two corners (including the final roof) to finish up above the slab.

Stand Start high left hand, low right hand and climb up the blunt arete.

Landry Lushima

Start low and climb the arete

Sit start in the crack, continue to climb the roof crack following it out of the cave. Once out in the open climb the vertical crack to top out.

Video Amazing Grace, 2nd ascent

Climb the face right of Excalibur.

Sit-start on an incut rail and move up on nothing holds.

Sit-start just right of Lonestar Arête, move RH to Beach Babes' vertical slot and top-out direct.

Sit-start on an edge on black rock.

Beta Video

Landry Lushima

Bum start in underclings, move up to a good edge on the right and top-out.

Beta Video

Landry Lushima

Climb the seam up the very high wall.

3rd Ascent by Landry Lushima

Low SS with LH on small layaway and RH on good layaway, climb to TO.

Landry Lushima

Eliminate problem. See video below.

By Sheldon Smith

Awesome climb, instead of using slopey jug on Dionysus use crimpy undercling - Sheldon

Climb Another Winner (Variation 1) to the rail, then downclimb Snail Trail to join Overconfidence

Eliminate. Start as for Corporal Punishment, then do a big move out right to a crimp and continue moving right using a long crimp to top out next to the tree. The good holds of Memories are off. Video here.

Stand start with BH on edge in the middle of the face, up to the hollow above, RH to pinch, TO straight up.

Start as for U19 Girls Basketball and move left to join Swim.

The Holy Grail start, into Auto Eject.

Sit start to freak of the week

Climb as for Leftfield, this time using the holds up right. The arête is off.

Stand start on a reinforced hold and move up to the lip.

Climb as for Unnamed 1 but head up right to a crimp.

One of the harder routes on the Ledge. Sustained and a touch exciting.

Start: Start on the staircase ledge about 5m to the right of the arête between 'Jeopardy' and 'Jacob's Ladder'

1. [31] 40m Scramble up the large layback seam for about 10 meters to a ledge. Climb up the centre of the overhanging face through a series of small roofs to the 'Roulette' rail. Plenty of smallish cams are useful to protect this bottom section. Resisting the temptation to sit on the 'Roulette' ledge, rail right for 1m, pull through the roof and climb directly up the face just right of the main arete to join the original line at the 'Captain Hook' rail.

2. Figure out a cunning way to get down and to retrieve your gear or join the final pitch of Roulette.

Rail right for 1m, pull through the roof and climb directly up the face just right of the main arete to join the original line at the hook rail.

One of the harder routes on the Ledge. Sustained and a touch exciting.

Start: Start on the staircase ledge about 5m to the right of the arête between 'Jeopardy' and 'Jacob's Ladder'

1. [31] 40m Scramble up the large layback seam for about 10 meters to a ledge. Climb up the centre of the overhanging face through a series of small roofs to the 'Roulette' rail. Plenty of smallish cams are useful to protect this bottom section. Resisting the temptation to sit on the 'Roulette' ledge, rail right 2m and gain the next rail using the vertical crack. From this position, pull straight through the next little roof via difficult moves to establish in some underclings. Climb past a peg and move diagonally left past the crux of 'Jeopardy' to 2 more pegs and the 'Captain Hook' rail (the end of 'Jeopardy'). Lace the rail with cams and climb the blunt arête. Pull straight through the next roof and exit out left onto jugs on the headwall.

2. Figure out a cunning way to get down and to retrieve your gear or join the final pitch of Roulette.

Start as for 'Roulette Arête'.

Left of 'Roulette'

Roof to the right of Cukoo's nest.