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Seasonality
Description
Big chossy mixed and sport. Lots of sun though wind can pick up to cool things significantly. Be prepared.
Access issues
General Access
The Penion de Ifach is a nature reserve and you need an "access ticket" to be allowed there. They're free and can be done here: https://www.tramita.gva.es/ctt-att-atr/asistente/asistente.html#asistente/IDE
The website exists only in spanish a english guide can be found here: https://parquesnaturales.gva.es/documents/80305041/172756741/Guía+Inglés+web.pdf/2be5e90d-f951-c629-652c-7a6817dd372b?t=1653466195299
You can do them on the day (AFAIK 300 are allowed per day) and you get a pdf with the entry allowance. You'll need an ID/Passport or drivers license to complete the form. Fines for not having one are €600-€6000 according to a plate at the entrance.
Season
North Face is closed for nesting from 1st April until June 30th.
Approach
For south face, drive to marina under cliff (
38.637528, 0.071929). Plenty of parking if you're early. Walk 5 min alongside the ocean on pavement under cliff, past helipad and drinking water fountain and human faeces to where the wall meets the water. Take the only trail, initially at base of wall, sometimes meandering left. Walk off top along tourist trail.
For north face, approach along the main summit trail from the visitor's center (38.639222, 0.072698).
At the last turn before the tunnel is a small path straight up to the wall, leading you directly to the start of Pany
Ethic inherited from Comunidad Valenciana
- La piedra caliza es blanda - por favor, limpie sus gatos antes de escalar.
- Use su propio material para top-ropes.
- Cepille las vías y el magnesio al terminar la vía.
- Llévese su basura, colillas, y papel higiénico.
- Aparque con consideración y no bloquee pasos de tractores.
- Limestone is soft – please, clean your shoes off dirt before climbing.
- Use your own gear for top-rope set-ups.
- Brush the line and remove all tick marks and chalk excess.
- Pick up rubbish, cigarette butts, and your toilet paper.
- Park considerately and don't block essential laybys or farm access.
Plan your Trip
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Selected Guidebooks more Hide
Author(s): Roberto López
Date: 2020
ISBN: 9788409212781
A selective guidebook for Costa Blanca describing more than 3,400 sport routes in the provinces of Alicante and southern Valencia, stretching from Gandía in the north to Orihuela in the south.
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Author(s): Renaud Moulin & Jose Luis Palao
Date: 2019
A selective guidebook describing the best sport climbing areas around Alicante and Murcia in the Costa Blanca area, covering 20 main areas and 1,000's of routes.
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Author(s): Chris Craggs & Alan James
Date: 2013
ISBN: 9781873341674
A selective guidebook describing all the main rock climbing and sports climbing areas within the Costa Blanca region of Spain, covering 40 crags and over 3,000 routes.
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Accommodations nearby more Hide
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Photos Browse all photos
Alexey on ★★ Valencianos 5+ - IMG-20200212-WA0024.jpg
★★ Same 6b+ - via_same.jpg
★★ Pany 5a - pany_start.jpg
★★ Pany 5a - pany_top.jpg
Fri 2 Jun
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