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The Wave

  • Grade context: UK
  • Ascents: 3
19

Seasonality

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Access issues inherited from Peak District Limestone

For up-to-date access information please visit the BMS RAD database. https://www.thebmc.co.uk/modules/RAD/

Ethic inherited from Peak District Limestone

Being a national park, consult the local guide books and the regional access database for any closures. As usual, Nesting birds, and protected flora should be preserved. Some crags are on Private land, and therefore act reasonably if asked to leave.

Routes

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Grade Route

Sit beneath the overhang on an undercut and slot. Reach the edge, relying on undercuts and sidepulls. Initiate a rightward swing and finish on Ned/James's Problem.

NA: Jim Pope, 2023

Combine the start of Wave Mechanics with a transition into Dan's Groove.

Begin sat as for Dan's Groove, using an undercut pocket. Next, progress by traversing across the left side of the upper roof using a beak and sloping holds, finishing at the elevated break.

Commencing from the sturdy head-height jug break, reach for the prominent roof-level hold (distinguished by its pointed thumb spike) and dynamically reach the jug holds situated around the roof. Finish at the elevated break.

Start on a Left pocket and Right undercut. Go rightwards along the ramp of lovely slopers, then, blast straight out of the roof above via long moves on poor holds. Finish on a jug in the high break.

Begin from a pair of challenging, low-quality holds. Extend upwards to a beak for the crux. Proceed to ascend directly, relying on crimps and slopers as you make your way upward.

Start from the large jug. Move right to a sidepull, and continue by navigating through the roof section, finishing at the elevated break.

FA: Ned Feehally

Ascend directly up the right side of the wall (past Perfect Sloper), bypassing the buck-toothed jug.

Directly start The Ramp from a standing position. Place your left hand on a small backhand tooth and your right hand on a meager sloping pinch hold. Progress and finish into The Ramp.

FA: Ned Feehally

Start as for Point Beak. After the initial sequences, head leftwards along a series of crimps that form a distinct line of edges, and finish up The Ramp.

Start as for Sine Language. Instead of finishing through the final roof, transition to the right and complete by following the path of Point Beak.

Ascend vertically from The Ramp, navigating your way through the broadest part of the roof using sloping holds and undercuts.

FA: James Noble

Start in a double gaston position just left of Undertow, head directly over the lip.

FA: Aidan Roberts, 2023

Start LH on an edge, RH next to it on a really bad edge. Reach RH up into a flat undercut. Build feet up and go left hand to the lip. Match the lip and finish straight up via some easy moves.

All revolves around utilising the undercut.

FA: Ned Feehally

Information needed

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Steve Broadbent

Date: 2022

ISBN: 9781913167110

A selective guidebook describing the best sport climbing areas in the northern half of England and Wales, covering 89 crags across Cumbria, Lancashire, North Yorkshire, the esoteric Filey sea cliffs, the Peak District, Cheshire, Clwyd limestone, the A55 and North Wales coast, and Llanberis slate.

Author(s): Alan James & Chris Craggs

Date: 2020

ISBN: 9781873341582

A selective guidebook describing the best Trad rock climbing and sport climbing found on the limestone crags in the Peak District, covering over 3,000 routes at 30 crags.

Author(s): Ian Carr & Gary Gibson

Date: 2018

ISBN: 9780903908399

A comprehensive guidebook describing the trad climbing, sport climbing and bouldering in the southern area of the Peak District, covering 50 crags including the classic areas of High Tor, Dovedale, Wirksworth, Matlock and the Manifold Valley.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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