Kestrel Buttress Mostly Trad climbing 18 routes in sector

Climb the centre of the front face direct, starting over the butch overhang, crossing the diagonal cracks and finishing with a flourish at a notch in the final narrow wall. A bit of a non-line but with some fine climbing if you are strict.

A well-rounded classic though too much of a struggle to be a real three star outing. The striking hanging fissure has a brace of awkward starts (easiest on the left) and a wide awkward exit. A couple of tricky-to-thread chockstones help protect the main difficulties of the route.

The hanging lower arete just right of the Headless Horseman traverse is reached via a very hard traverse from the right to the enticing pockets and a lovely balancy move to stand up in them. The arete above is much easier. Good cams under the roof protect (back-rope useful) and a very poor cam in the right-hand pocket just about serves for the rest.

A mini-Mincer and quite popular, though this one is easier for the tall. From the foot of the odd perched flake, climb the grungy groove to the overhang and layback rapidly rightwards round this to easy ground.

Bridge the leaning corner (without pushing too hard on the flake) and then step left to reach the rectilinear fissure, thankfully above the wide and potentially awkward lower section.

Traverse the crest of the huge perched flake (walk across or ride it - the choice is yours) to reach an easy groove. Awkward to protect so be wary of scaring beginners!