Routes in Vermont for selected grade

This is the access climb to get to the Eagle Point climbs, rather than actually on the Eagle Point cliff.

1. Climb the obvious crack in the front of the buttress. 100ft. 5.8.

2. Continue up, careful of loose blocks at the top. 100ft. 5.9+.

3. optional - climb loose final face with poor protection to top. 30ft. 5.9 X.

See the hilarious account of the development of this route here: http://www.famousinternetskiers.com/steep-jugs/

An excellent, interesting climb with two, truly fantastic anchor points with phenomenal views of Smuggler's Notch.

Pitch 1: 5.7+ 90' Belayer should wear a helmet due to loose rock on the route. Climb up the easy slab past 3 bolts. The next bolt, use a long draw to reduce rope drag later. Climb up the steep jugs on the face for 4 more bolts, trending left. Pull up and over the final, left-facing bulge to gain the bat cave ledge. The anchors are on the roof of the bat cave to the right - a bit run out from the last bolt. A bit chossy, so be careful not to pull loose rock off the wall.

Pitch 2: 5.9 60' On the right-facing side, make bouldery moves to get off the ground. Then, move up the face above the anchors. Swing onto an exposed arete and straddle it to the anchors.

Anchors: fully bolted with rap rings.

During the first ascent, the second climbed the route with a beer in one hand. More beers were enjoyed from the top to celebrate not having to drill any more bolts.

Pitch 1: 5.7+ Same as first pitch of "Steep Jugs," but at the bat cave, scramble left to belay from a grouping of trees by the left-facing wall of the buttress' prow.

Pitch 2: 5.9 Stick clip the first bolt if possible. Climb up the sharp, quartz holds on the roof to gain an upper stance from which to clip the second bolt. Climb up the easy face to the anchors shared with "Steep Jugs."

Just to the right of Breaking and Entering. Tricky start, then easier ground to a steep finish on hollow sounding flakes.

Right leg of the A.

Finish under the roof, left, at the "Two-pitch Route" anchor.