Routes in White Mountains for selected grade

1. From a small clearing with slopping blocky section which includes a small semi-detached pillar, aim for the fixed 3x bong anchor.

2. Traverse right to the bolted belay/rap anchor, the bigger horizontal crack holds gear, but it's also the best thing to use as a ramp for your feet... can be very spooky/exposed/run-out.

3. Head straight up the face, pulling the large flakes, up the corner with the tree, belay with natural pro on the ledge.

4. Go straight up from the little cave and do a balancy move to the left flake, head up the easiest path, past a 2 tree doulble ledge and up a ramp to the left up to the base of aireation buttress.

For a safer second traverse: trail a second rope or use doubles and merge pitch 2 and 3 together, only using a single rope after passing the last piece of pro at the beginning of the traverse, run this rope on the left side of the tree when climbing the chimney on pitch 3, this way, you can better protect your second across the traverse.

Near the left side of the slabs are a pair of slowly converging dikes running up the slab. This routes starts up the right-most of the dikes.

Pitch 0: friction the slab to the large sloping ledge. (Most climbers rope up on this ledge.) Guide says to belay from pin at right side of ledge, but pin did not seem to be present as of August/2012.

1. 125' (5.2) Climb the easy but poorly protected dike to a cozy belay pocket with two bolt anchor.

2. 150' (5.2) Follow the dike past a double-ring bolt anchor (top of pitch one of "Pathfinder" to a large tree ledge. Scramble up and left to the high point and belay.

3. 90' (5.6) Continue up to the base of a narrow right-rising arch. Belay on a natural thread and gear.

4. 100' (5.6) Layback part way up the arch then pull up left over the arch onto slab then up to a double ring-bolt anchor below the huge upper roofs.

5. 80' (5.5) Traverse right below the big roofs to a double ring-bolt anchor on a small ledge.

6. 65' (5.6) Continue right around the corner, and climb the final overlap by way of shallow right-facing corner to a big pine.

7. (5.2) Up and right through 4th class terrain, the occasional slab and treed ledges.

8. (5.2) Up and right through 4th class terrain, the occasional slab and treed ledges, to finish near the end of "Standard Route".

A rappel descent can be made from the end of pitch 4 on a single 70m rope. (Barely, 5 rappels, using the "Pathfinder" pitch 1 anchors.) A rappel descent can be made from the end of pitch 5 with double-rope rappels (2 50m ropes).

on Bottom Slab

on Bottom Cliff

Start 5 feet to the right of the second wooden ladder. Jam up the nice-lookingm vertical crack to the top. 60'

mid-Cliff Start