Torre Preuß All Trad climbing 3 routes in sector

1. Start right from the plate, up and right trough cracks/corners on the ledge.

2. Ledge (join with the first pitch), go left, anchor is just below the crack.

3. Up the crack above the anchor, slightly right and up after the second piton.

4. Straight up from the anchor, layback, continue left. Anchor is at the bottom of the big chimney,

5. Climb on the right wall (on the edge), clip the sling and go left to the chimney. Continue in the chimney, to the anchor.

6. Climb in the chimney. After approx. 20m there is an anchor, but you can continue (climb on the left side) another 15m to the start of the most exposed pitch. The anchor is 3m deep in the chimney.

7. The coolest pitch (see the picture). Just go up, above the anchor keep going up and left to the outer side of the chimney. There are 2 pitons after 30m. You can belay from here. (In some topos the pitch is 40m.. so you can perhaps belay bit further somewhere below the stuck boulder)..

8. Go up the chimney to the stuck boulder. In some topos, after the boulder, you can climb on the right wall. However the rock is quite loose. I was told that it’s better to stay in the chimney..

Descend: There is probably more options. I will describe how we did it:

1. On the top of the tower on the south side there is anchor. Start rappelling and keep a bit left (if you are looking to the top) . You’ll see a new anchor after less than 30m..

2. Don’t rappel straight down. Keep left, you have to rappel to the west edge of the tower to the cairn. Not sure it this is less than 30m but it should be possible.. last few meters are easy

3. use an older anchor with a big ring on the west edge near the cairn, and rappel down to the saddle. There is an anchor (a bolt) in between (maybe after 15m) if you have double ropes, you can skip this and just rappel down..

4. Rappel down the couloir, the anchor is in less than 30m, on the left wall (if you are looking to the saddle)

5. Rappel down the couloir, 55m, the ring is on a big boulder in the couloir. If you have shorter rope, you can walk down, however there may be a lot of snow in the couloir in early summer (Jun, July)

6. Rappel down the couloir (40-50m), the bolt is on the right wall, connected with a sling with a ring in the couloir.

7. Final rappel, straight down.

Notes:

1. You don’t have to climb with the shoes, the start of the route is just 5min away from the couloir you will descend..

2. There are lot of stones in the couloir, the rappelling is quite dangerous if there are other parties descending.