Ascents of Jimmy and the Big Boys

Great route, first 24. Happy with that!

Yay, I sent this today! Turns out doing the same thing over and over again (the direct crux) eventually does bring progress - beta: match on rail, rf far right in pocket dropknee, lh rail lockoff, hard pull as rh goes up directly to leftside of top rail). I find the first half of this route nicer than Sickle Moon with a hard solid crux. I was less scared at the top and kinda figured out what to do using that sidepull.

I got convinced to give Jimmy a go. Made it through the crux eventually (yes, the direct way 🙄) and almost gave up at the top because hot dang that is hard and scary! Precise food placement, lots of positive self talk and slow movements I hunkered down and found my way to the top. It’s an excellent climb however that top is yucky. Hopefully it goes better next time.

Knee bar for what. Must use Jeroen’s magic beta and stay straight through the roof 👌

Repeat with Direct line putting draws in. Think direct is 24 and to the left drops a grade to 23.

Everyone moans about this route being soft but then they go left at the bottom roof around the crux. The correct way and how I believe this line was intended to be climbed is directly through the bottom roof (next to the bolts) This makes it consistent and at grade 24.

Found the top section a bit balance-y and scary

Nice jugging.

Great route, with an exposed crux and ending.