Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | ||||||||||||||||
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Sun 4th Aug 2024 - Bolton | |||||||||||||||||||
Bolton Dome The Pirate's Cove | |||||||||||||||||||
5.8 |
★★ Crushdepedence P1
![]()
1
| 52m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | ||||||||||||||||
Excellent climbing. Burly climbing up the initial face, then lovely slab above on P1.
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Sat 3rd Aug 2024 - Bolton | |||||||||||||||||||
Bolton Dome Railroad Yard | |||||||||||||||||||
5.7 PG |
★★ Work Shoes
![]() | 120m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||||||||||||||
Enjoyable, though requiring a strong head, as it is really run-out for a nominally "sport" climb.
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Sat 3rd Aug 2024 - Bolton | |||||||||||||||||||
Bolton Dome West Side | |||||||||||||||||||
5.4 |
★ (unknown new route)
![]() | 26m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||||||||||||||
Pleasant climbing -- not quite as good as "Sir Didymus", but a nice addition.
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5.4 |
★★ Sir Didymus
![]() | 27m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||||||||||||||
Sun 21st Jul 2024 - Känzele | |||||||||||||||||||
Arwen | Just in time | |||||||||||||||||||
5 |
★★ Monsoon wedding
![]() | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||||||||||||||
Lots of fun climbing.
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5 |
★★ Ladylike
![]() | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||||||||||||||||
Climbs steeper than it looks from the ground.
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Sun 21st Jul 2024 - Känzele | |||||||||||||||||||
Sophia | |||||||||||||||||||
4+ |
★ Tombaou
![]() | 20m | ★ Good | ||||||||||||||||
A lot of moss.
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4 |
Schichtarbeit Umgehung
![]() | 20m | Don't Bother | ||||||||||||||||
Moss, moss, and more moss. Also, the route appears to go directly through a major shrubbery.
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5- |
★ Schichtarbeit direkt
![]() | 20m | ★ Good | ||||||||||||||||
A lot of moss.
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Sat 20th Jul 2024 - Pocksberg | |||||||||||||||||||
4 |
★★ Meister Eder
![]() | ★★ Very Good | |||||||||||||||||
4+ |
★ Kobold
![]() | ★★ Very Good | |||||||||||||||||
5 |
★ Flip
![]() | ★ Good | |||||||||||||||||
5+ |
★★ Pepone
![]() | ★★ Very Good | |||||||||||||||||
5+ |
★ Don Camillo
![]() | ★★ Very Good | |||||||||||||||||
6+ |
★★ Grisu
![]() | ★★★ Classic | |||||||||||||||||
5+ |
★ Batman
![]() | 20m | ★ Good | ||||||||||||||||
Fri 19th Jul 2024 - Schwarzenberg | |||||||||||||||||||
4- |
★★ Max
![]() | ||||||||||||||||||
A lot of actual climbing for the grade.
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5+ |
★ Glühwürmchen
![]() | ★ Good | |||||||||||||||||
Sun 14th Jul 2024 - Bad Heilbrunn | |||||||||||||||||||
Große Platte | |||||||||||||||||||
5- |
★★ Salger-Gedächtnis-Platte
![]() | 32m, 5 | |||||||||||||||||
4 ~5- |
★★ Glühwürmchen
![]() | 32m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||||||||||||||
5 |
★★ Egonplatte
![]() | 30m | |||||||||||||||||
Only a single-bolt anchor.
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5- |
★★ Dachplatte
![]() | ★★ Very Good | |||||||||||||||||
Sun 14th Jul 2024 - Bad Heilbrunn | |||||||||||||||||||
Kondensstreifenplatte | |||||||||||||||||||
6- Easy |
★ Otto-Flugplatte
![]() | 23m | Average | ||||||||||||||||
A good crux section, but too much scrambling at the start to be a great route.
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Sun 14th Jul 2024 - Bad Heilbrunn | |||||||||||||||||||
Große Platte | |||||||||||||||||||
5+ |
★★★ Siebenschläfer
![]() | 32m | |||||||||||||||||
Probably this one.
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Sun 7th Jul 2024 - Calabogie | |||||||||||||||||||
Skywalk Skywalk Main Cliff Star Wars Sector | |||||||||||||||||||
5.7 |
★★ Command and Conquer
![]() | 7 | Average | ||||||||||||||||
The lower part was wet, making it almost interesting climbing. And, of course, making the interesting crux a bit more interesting due to not knowing if wet rubber would stick.
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5.6 |
★★ Princess Leia
![]() | 35m, 12 | Average | ||||||||||||||||
Only climbed until the rap anchor, since wasn't sure how much rope I had.
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5.6 |
★ Benjamin Kenobi
![]() | 32m, 9 | Average | ||||||||||||||||
Crux move could use another bolt -- it is done above the previous bolt, with definite ledge-fall potential.
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Sun 26th May 2024 - Weir | |||||||||||||||||||
Mur de l'ouest 2ème étage | |||||||||||||||||||
5.8 Hard |
Ruban Rose
![]() | 27m | |||||||||||||||||
Sat 11th May 2024 - Kanata (Tremblant) | |||||||||||||||||||
Secteur Tomahawk | |||||||||||||||||||
5.10a |
★★★ Déclic
![]() | 17m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||||||||||||||
The finish is a bit run-out, but the climbing eases off, too.
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Fri 29th Mar 2024 - Lone star | |||||||||||||||||||
5.5 |
★ La lili
![]() | 12m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||||||||||||||
Sat 28th Oct 2023 - Agios Andreas | |||||||||||||||||||
5c+ Hard |
★★ Joker
![]() | 20m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | ||||||||||||||||
5c |
★★ Rambo
![]() | 20m, 12 | ★ Good | ||||||||||||||||
5c |
★ Dirty Harry
![]() | 18m, 11 | ★ Good | ||||||||||||||||
The most uncomfortable of my 5c leads for the trip -- the first half was always insecure -- slopy slippery hands and feet the whole way. I am just glad it was so closely bolted it was never particularly scary, despite being so insecure.
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5c |
★★ Legolas
![]() | 17m | ★★★ Classic | ||||||||||||||||
5a |
★ Django
![]() | 15m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||||||||||||||
4c |
★ Bilbo
![]() | 15m, 9 | ★ Good | ||||||||||||||||
5b |
★★ Skali
![]() | 15m, 9 | ★ Good | ||||||||||||||||
Clipping/cleaning the anchors is much harder than 5b, but I can understand that that's where the bolts needed to be.
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Fri 27th Oct 2023 - Geraki Wave | |||||||||||||||||||
5b+ ~5b |
★★ Souvlakias
![]() | 18m | ★★ Very Good | ||||||||||||||||
Might be 5b+ if you're not comfortable with a hand-jam or two, but everyone should be.
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5b |
★★ Platanos
![]() | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||||||||||||||
A bit squeezed bewteen the routes to the left and right.
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6a |
★★ Hani marounta
![]() | 20m | ★ Good | ||||||||||||||||
6a+ |
★★ Orange line
![]() | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||||||||||||||
Excellent line, too bad the adacent root squeezes it so badly.
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5c Easy |
★★ Mikros mystras
![]() | 18m | Average | ||||||||||||||||
One 5c move.
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5b+ ~5b |
★ Maleatis apollo
![]() | 18m | ★ Good | ||||||||||||||||
5c ~5b+ |
★ Nikiforos vrettakos
![]() | 18m | ★ Good | ||||||||||||||||
6a+ |
★★ Krousma
![]() | 18m | ★★ Very Good | ||||||||||||||||
Wed 25th Oct 2023 - Leonidio | |||||||||||||||||||
Lakkos Dornröschen | |||||||||||||||||||
5c |
★★ Es war einmal...
![]() | 25m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||||||||||||||
Also good climbing, but sharper than Three Kings, so sometimes the holds just hurt more.
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5c |
★★ Three Holy Kings
![]() | 30m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | ||||||||||||||||
Excellent climbing on jugs. I was tired when I lead this, having just fought with one of the 6bs (on TR), but this opened up, and we had to grab it.
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5a ~5b |
Borge
![]() | 17m | Crap | ||||||||||||||||
Badly bolted and squeezed by the route to the left. Not worth climbing unless you want to set up top-ropes on the 6Bs to the right which share the anchor.
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5a |
★ Terrier Brothers
![]() | 17m | Average | ||||||||||||||||
A real squeeze-job with Borge to the right.
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Tue 24th Oct 2023 - Agios Petros | |||||||||||||||||||
Zonaga | |||||||||||||||||||
5c |
★★ Kontakis
![]() | 20m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||||||||||||||
A bit tough for a warm up, and the holds were a bit hard to read, but were all there.
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5b ~5c |
★ Kronion
![]() | 13m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||||||||||||||
Do not get on this climb expecting a usual Leonidio-area 5a lead.
Guide book says 5a -- but no way. It is harder than Kontakis (which seemed a solid 5c) (agreed by several climbers with very different body sizes and climbing styles. |
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5b |
★★ Dutch cyclist
![]() | 13m, 7 | ★ Good | ||||||||||||||||
5a |
★ Margarita
![]() | 13m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||||||||||||||
Better, and steeper, than it looks.
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5c |
★ Locas Botas
![]() | 13m, 7 | ★ Good | ||||||||||||||||
I found some bad beta, and probably made it more like 6a at the top.
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Mon 23rd Oct 2023 - Leonidio | |||||||||||||||||||
Lakkos Sabaton Ilektra | |||||||||||||||||||
5a |
★★ Ilektra
![]() | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||||||||||||||
Good climbing, but the exposure on the arete makes it a classic.
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5b |
★ Gabriel
![]() | 20m | ★ Good | ||||||||||||||||
Mon 23rd Oct 2023 - Leonidio | |||||||||||||||||||
Lakkos Sabaton Lower | |||||||||||||||||||
6a ~5c |
★ Podikus
![]() | 28m | ★★ Very Good | ||||||||||||||||
Route-finding on a traverse can be less obvious than on a more vertical route -- but if you find the best way through, this is no harder than 5c. And quite enjoyable.
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5a - b |
★ Juliett Extension
![]() | 15m, 10 | |||||||||||||||||
Guide book suggests extension is 5b, but really 5a seems fair.
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5b - c ~5c |
★★ Giota
![]() | 15m, 10 | |||||||||||||||||
Seems solid at 5c.
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6a |
★★ Tokotoukan
![]() | 15m, 9 | |||||||||||||||||
Sun 22nd Oct 2023 - Leonidio | |||||||||||||||||||
Kokkinovrachos Red Rock | |||||||||||||||||||
4c |
★ Masterplan
![]() | 20m | ★ Good | ||||||||||||||||
4b |
★ Soft Parade
![]() | 20m | ★ Good | ||||||||||||||||
Sun 22nd Oct 2023 - Leonidio | |||||||||||||||||||
Kokkinovrachos Hospital | |||||||||||||||||||
6a+ ~6a |
★★ Psila
![]() | 40m | |||||||||||||||||
6a ~5c+ |
★★ Manolis Glezos
![]() | 40m | ★★ Very Good | ||||||||||||||||
Sat 16th Sep 2023 - Weir | |||||||||||||||||||
Mur de l'ouest 2ème étage | |||||||||||||||||||
5.9 |
★★ Diedre Mauve
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Mon 4th Sep 2023 - Lone star | |||||||||||||||||||
5.8 ~5.7 |
★★ Mysophobie
![]() | 12m, 6 | |||||||||||||||||
Harder than Gros Orteil, but I think that is just the difference between an easy 7 and a stiffer 7.
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5.7 |
★ Gros orteil
![]() | 12m, 5 | |||||||||||||||||
5.6 |
★ Esprit de famille
![]() | 12m, 4 | |||||||||||||||||
Tue 22nd Aug 2023 - Calabogie | |||||||||||||||||||
Wabun Lake Hill Side Cliff | |||||||||||||||||||
5.8 |
★★ Space Age Sunshine
![]() | 34m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | ||||||||||||||||
5.8 start, some relaxed climbing, then the 5.8 kicks back in.
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Tue 22nd Aug 2023 - Calabogie | |||||||||||||||||||
Wabun Lake Lake Cliff aka Ant Hill | |||||||||||||||||||
5.7 |
★★ Half Moon Run
![]() | 8m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||||||||||||||
5.8 Hard |
Bleep Bloop
![]() | 8m, 3 | Don't Bother | ||||||||||||||||
First climb at the crag, and my least favourite. It just wasn't, at least for me, enjoyable climbing.
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5.9 |
★★ Mad Tom
![]() | 19m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||||||||||||||
Much more consistent at the grade than the 10s to its right, making it a better climb.
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5.10b |
★ Uncharted
![]() | 20m, 7 | ★ Good | ||||||||||||||||
Maybe 5.10b? Though only at the start, rest is pretty mellow, maybe 5.8-5.9.
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Sun 20th Aug 2023 - Calabogie | |||||||||||||||||||
Lake Cliff Right Side | |||||||||||||||||||
5.9 |
★ Learning by doing
![]() | 10m, 5 | Average | ||||||||||||||||
Final moves to the anchor are not a gimme, and a bit exposed (compared to the rest of the bolting in this section).
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5.10a ~5.9 |
★★ Dissolution of Parliament 2.0
![]() | 12m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||||||||||||||
Really really hard 5.8. Might be 5.9. Especially if you don't hand-jam to pull past bolt 2.
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5.10b ~5.10a |
★★ Toxic Positivity
![]() | 13m, 7 | Average | ||||||||||||||||
Barely 5.10a to clip the anchor, at least at my height, but the final pull up to anchor height is noticeably harder than anything else on the route. Do you have to do that final move? Then, maybe, 10b. If you're done when you clip... not so 10b.
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Supporting theCrag is not only good for your Karma
it also gives you access to great benefits on theCrag and beyond. | |||||||||||||||||||
5.9 |
★★ Healing Crystals
![]() | 15m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | ||||||||||||||||
Sat 19th Aug 2023 - Calabogie | |||||||||||||||||||
Lake Cliff Left Side | |||||||||||||||||||
5.9 |
★★ Uncle Jim’s Magic Box
![]() | 22m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | ||||||||||||||||
5.9 |
★★ Calabogie Dreaming
![]() | 18m, 8 | ★ Good | ||||||||||||||||
Start was damp-to-wet, so stick-clipped bolt 2. Was actually damp through the first 4-5 bolts, but climbed ok.
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Fri 11th Aug 2023 - Manuels | |||||||||||||||||||
Upper Face | |||||||||||||||||||
5.7 |
★★ Dyslexia
![]() | 22m, 8 | ★ Good | ||||||||||||||||
The second steep section was not just wet, but wet and slimy, making what would otherwise have been a very enjoyable climb only enjoyable.
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Fri 11th Aug 2023 - Manuels | |||||||||||||||||||
Baby Face | |||||||||||||||||||
5.8 |
★ Boston Mantle
![]() | 10m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||||||||||||||
Short but fun.
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Wed 9th Aug 2023 - Manuels | |||||||||||||||||||
German Face | |||||||||||||||||||
5.7 |
★★ Sick Like Dog
![]() | 25m, 10 | ★ Good | ||||||||||||||||
Pleasant.
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5.9 |
★ Hat Shit
![]() | 25m, 10 | |||||||||||||||||
First climb at the crag, and counting bolt lines from the right, thought this was "Sick Like Dog" (5.7). So, figured it would be a nice 5.7 warm up. That it was not. It was not a very pleasant 5.7, seeming quite hard for the grade. Then I found out that "German Access" was around the corner, oops.
At least it was quite closely bolted. |
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5.10b Easy |
★ Photophobia
![]() | 28m, 12 | ★ Good | ||||||||||||||||
Some technical thin edge slab climbing and good old slab smears on this one. Happy to get the on-sight, and think it is about 5.10-, so "easy 5.10b" seems fair.
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5.9 |
★★ Tach Auch
![]() | 28m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||||||||||||||
Climbed this after "Photophobia" so chose different holds and movement past the shared bolt to "preserve my on-sight".
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5.9 |
★★ Core Shot
![]() | 25m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | ||||||||||||||||
Some fun climbing on holds, not just slab.
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5.8 |
★★ German Engineered
![]() | 25m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||||||||||||||
Some very enjoyable stemming movement in the corner/groove.
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Tue 8th Aug 2023 - Flatrock | |||||||||||||||||||
Main Face | |||||||||||||||||||
5.7 Hard |
★★ Spray Down
![]() | 20m, 6 | |||||||||||||||||
Felt like glued (not always solidly) kitty litter.
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Sat 5th Aug 2023 - Swift Current | |||||||||||||||||||
Tiger Wall | |||||||||||||||||||
5.6 |
★ Astro Kitty
![]() | 14m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||||||||||||||
Pleasant little less than vertical sport climb, with nicely featured slab, and some bits of trust-your-feet. Nice way to finish the day.
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Sat 5th Aug 2023 - Swift Current | |||||||||||||||||||
Geometry Wall | |||||||||||||||||||
5.8 |
★★★ Polygon-na Climb it
![]() | 12m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | ||||||||||||||||
Surprisingly steep for a 5.8, but there are big, jugs the whole way, though, I occasionally had to convince myself the flakes were solid, and occasionally you had to do a bit of route-finding to find the jugs.
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Sun 23rd Jul 2023 - Red Rock: Pet Wall | |||||||||||||||||||
Main Wall The Laboratory | |||||||||||||||||||
5.10a Hard |
★★ Wacko Tango
![]() | 12m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||||||||||||||
Sun 25th Jun 2023 - Paroi Laurin - La Macaza | |||||||||||||||||||
5.9 |
★★ Yes Weekend
![]() | 18m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||||||||||||||
5.9 Easy |
★ Les Dents de la Mer
![]() | 19m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||||||||||||||
5.10b Easy |
★★ Waterploof
![]() | 19m, 9 | ★ Good | ||||||||||||||||
5.9 |
★★ Gemme au Départ
![]() | 19m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||||||||||||||
5.10a Hard |
★★ La Transe
![]() | 21m, 8 | ★ Good | ||||||||||||||||
5.9 |
★ Belzébuth
![]() | 19m, 10 | ★ Good | ||||||||||||||||
5.8 Easy |
Monsieur Laurin
![]() | 19m, 9 | Average | ||||||||||||||||
5.7 |
Camel
![]() | 19m, 8 | ★ Good | ||||||||||||||||
5.7 Easy |
Mes patates sont su'l feu
![]() | 19m, 9 | Average | ||||||||||||||||
Like the two routes to the left, unsustained.
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