Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
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Thu 30th May 2024 - Watagans | ||||||
Monkey Face Middle Crag | ||||||
17 | ★ Visage | 9m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
10 | ★ Significance | 7m | Average | |||
Thu 30th May 2024 - Watagans | ||||||
Monkey Face Smear Slabs | ||||||
14 | ★★ Without a Lead | 15m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Thu 30th May 2024 - Watagans | ||||||
Monkey Face Central Gully | ||||||
12 | ★ Chutney | 13m | Average | |||
18 | ★ Centennial direct finish | 9m | Average | |||
Off the couch after Covid. The walk up the hill was almost enough…
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Sat 27th Apr 2024 - Watagans | ||||||
Gate Crag Walls of 2000 | ||||||
15 | Pinch me I'm dreaming | 12m, 4 | Average | |||
Rpt
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19 | ★ Midway | 12m | Average | |||
15 | ★ Shanes 3 | 11m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
The top is definitely harder than 15, could easily be 18
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13 | ★ Shanes 2 | 11m | Average | |||
Rpt, the mantle at top was tenuous with only one hand
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16 | ★ Spider Lair | 10m | Average | |||
Rpt
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19 | ★ Plain Dumb | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Rpt
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Sat 1st Jul 2023 - Watagans | ||||||
Monkey Face Middle Crag | ||||||
20 | ★★ Colour Card | 16m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Rpt.
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14 | ★★ I'd Rather be Canoeing | 18m | ★ Good | |||
Rpt, nice climbing, very spaced gear. I’ve done my due in past times
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17 | ★ Visage | 9m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
Rpt, much nicer today after a bit of traffic. Probably should be 19
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10 | ★ Significance | 7m | Average | |||
Rpt
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10 | Marginal Existence | 7m | Average | |||
Done this a few times and the start is quite hard as is continuing up offwidth on lead. I will argue for upgrade. The start is at least a metre lower than the old days
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18 | ★ Mirror Mirror | 12m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Rpt
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15 | Brand X | 13m | Don't Bother | |||
Some offwidth practice.
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Wed 21st Jun 2023 - Watagans | ||||||
Monkey Face Middle Crag | ||||||
16 | Bombayment | 10m, 3 | Average | |||
Rpt
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19 | ★ Davafly | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Rpt
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20 | Plum line | 10m, 3 | Average | |||
Rpt
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19 | ★ Vengemite | 12m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Rpt
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19 | ★ Marmite | 12m, 5 | Average | |||
Rpt
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Sun 18th Jun 2023 - Watagans | ||||||
Monkey Face Smear Slabs | ||||||
14 | ★★ Without a Lead | 15m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Rpt to clean anchors
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Sun 18th Jun 2023 - Watagans | ||||||
Monkey Face Stopper Walls | ||||||
23 | ★★★ Weena | 30m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
2 sits, better friction than last week. Worth it to get john Wilde back in the saddle
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19 | ★ Clear and present danger | 15m, 5 | Don't Bother | |||
Rpt to put rope on weena
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13 | ★ Stopper (Direct) | 35m | ★ Good | |||
Rpt
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Sun 18th Jun 2023 - Watagans | ||||||
Monkey Face Turkey Walls | ||||||
22 | ★★ Turquosine | 12m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
A bit sandy after no ascents for years, did all moves after a brush.
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21 | ★★ Profanity | 14m | ★★ Very Good | |||
One slip in off fingers section
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19 | ★★ Bereska — 2 attempts | 18m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Felt too tricky as the warm up, did it later in the day
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Mon 12th Jun 2023 - Watagans | ||||||
Monkey Face Stopper Walls | ||||||
23 | ★★★ Weena | 30m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Rpt to clean. 2 snakes visible but neither impacting the route. Required a few rests, was hot in the sun.
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21 | ★ Ghetto Blaster | 7m, 3 | Average | |||
Rpt to get out
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19 | ★ Clear and present danger | 15m, 5 | Average | |||
Rpt. Can climb quite nicely.
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Sat 10th Jun 2023 - Watagans | ||||||
Monkey Face Smear Slabs | ||||||
17 | ★ Cadbury Flake | 12m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Rpt
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14 | ★ Hang in there Baby | 20m | Average | |||
Rpt, cleaning
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22 | ★ A Bridge Too Far | 16m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Rpt, though I did sneak in a bridge up high
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17 | ★ Electric Turkey | 20m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Rpt, cleaning
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Sat 10th Jun 2023 - Watagans | ||||||
Monkey Face Space Ape Area | ||||||
14 | ★ Orangutang | 6m | Average | |||
Tue 6th Jun 2023 - Watagans | ||||||
Monkey Face Middle Crag | ||||||
17 | ★ Visage | 9m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
For a short climb this is full on. Gave it a good brush.
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10 | ★ Significance | 7m | Average | |||
10 | Marginal Existence | 7m | Average | |||
Chicken wings
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20 | ★ Jonas' arete | 12m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Rpt, the grade 12 start is one of the harder aspects
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18 | ★ Mirror Mirror | 12m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Rpt, cleaned out pockets. Sandbagged self on own FA. Had to have a second go.
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Mon 5th Jun 2023 - Watagans | ||||||
Monkey Face Smear Slabs | ||||||
18 | ★ Providence | 16m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Old school 18 for sure. Good slab moves though
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20 | ★★ Smear to Oblivion | 15m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Brushing en route, nice and almost feels as secure as JTD these days
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19 | ★ Jear to Delerium | 15m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Still desperate at 19
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14 | ★★ Without a Lead | 15m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice, shame rock isn’t better, looks like it has been cleaned recently
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19 | ★ Giraffe | 10m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
Not clean today because it was pretty mossy. Gave it a brush but needs more
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15 | ★ Live 'n' Learn | 10m, 3 | Average | |||
Cleaning session. I quite like this, though short
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Sun 28th May 2023 - Watagans | ||||||
Monkey Face The Ramparts | ||||||
23 | ★★ Taipan Wall | 25m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
A couple of rests remembering the sequence post footer breakage
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21 | ★ Strapidbisectomy | 17m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
15 | Adrenaline Wall | 25m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
22 | ★ Waynes Route | 25m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
19 R | ★★ Garbage Blaster | 26m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Getting out at least despite feeling poorly
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Thu 11th May 2023 - Watagans | ||||||
Monkey Face Central Gully | ||||||
12 | ★ Chutney | 13m | Average | |||
Yep, shoulder unhappy laybacking.
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18 | ★ Centennial direct finish | 9m | Average | |||
Rpt. Shoulder playing up today.
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Thu 11th May 2023 - Watagans | ||||||
Monkey Face Turkey Walls | ||||||
19 | ★★ Bereska | 18m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
19 in a parallel universe. Always requires thinking Mc the middle part has changed over the years
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Sun 30th Oct 2022 - Watagans | ||||||
Gate Crag Walls of 2000 | ||||||
13 | Anniversary climb | 40m | Average | |||
A bit of a waste of bolts, but it was useful for multipitch “training” I guess.
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21 | ★ Dumb Struck | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Couple of clean goes straight up for crimp training
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19 | ★ Plain Dumb | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Rpt
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16 | ★ Spider Lair | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Rpt, probably the most thoughtful climb
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13 | ★ Shanes 2 | 11m | Average | |||
Rpt
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15 | ★ Shanes 3 | 11m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Rpt
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19 | ★ Midway | 12m | Average | |||
Rpt
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15 | Pinch me I'm dreaming | 12m, 4 | Average | |||
Rpt
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Sun 21st Aug 2022 - Watagans | ||||||
Dora Pinnacles Dark Side | ||||||
8 | ★ D2 crack | 8m | Average | |||
Would be good if it was longer, an actual splitter hand crack that would repel many a sport climber…
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Sun 21st Aug 2022 - Watagans | ||||||
Dora Pinnacles Rhinegold Wall | ||||||
15 | ★ Rhinegold Direct | 25m, 6 | Average | |||
Would be good with traffic. The abseilers moved in and prevented further action on the wall
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Sun 21st Aug 2022 - Watagans | ||||||
Dora Pinnacles Main Pinnacles | ||||||
14 | Avon | 10m, 1 | Average | |||
Rpt rope solo interesting on traverse
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17 | Battle of Rahmizies | 20m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
The crack was pretty clean but the top needed a bit of brushing
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21 | ★★ Rabies | 17m | ★ Good | |||
Totally blue sized jams- except for the chicken wing section. Not sure I will ever get this
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Sat 6th Aug 2022 - Watagans | ||||||
Gate Crag Central Buttress | ||||||
21 | ★ Fat lipped | 15m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Rpt
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20 | ★★ Titania | 18m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Rpt x2.
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Thu 30th Jun 2022 - Watagans | ||||||
Gate Crag Central Buttress | ||||||
24 | ★★ Moonlight Raid | 20m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Did everything but the short person crux. Was in good form when I last did this,
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20 | ★★ Titania | 18m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Rpt
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Wed 22nd Jun 2022 - Watagans | ||||||
Monkey Face Central Gully | ||||||
18 | ★ Centennial direct finish | 9m | Average | |||
Sometimes it feels like ground hog day, but it was good to see Louise tackle this on lead
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12 | ★ Chutney | 13m | Average | |||
Wed 22nd Jun 2022 - Watagans | ||||||
Monkey Face The Ramparts | ||||||
19 | ★ Red-Belly Black Flake | 25m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Rpt
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14 | ★ Terminally in Traction | 14m | ★ Good | |||
Rpt
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Easy Meat direct start | 18m, 6 | |||||
A half baked attempt, it’s very friable, just do the original
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23 | ★★ Taipan Wall | 25m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Nice but suffered from being climbed on when wet a couple of days ago.
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21 | ★ Eastern Brown | 25m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Nice moves, but would be a bit of a scary onsight
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Mon 20th Jun 2022 - Watagans | ||||||
Monkey Face Big Banana Buttress & The Extremes | ||||||
21 | ★★ No Support for the Monarchy | 15m, 5 | ||||
The bolts were out, drill dust everywhere, I was meant to be evaluating new bolt positions but it was too crozzly to be sure.
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Mon 20th Jun 2022 - Watagans | ||||||
Monkey Face The Ramparts | ||||||
19 | ★ Red-Belly Black Flake | 25m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Rpt, end of day, Dave still sandbags everyone claiming it’s a 17…
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14 | ★ Terminally in Traction | 14m | ★ Good | |||
Rpt, a little mossy on the upper part
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Mon 20th Jun 2022 - Watagans | ||||||
Monkey Face Central Gully | ||||||
12 | ★ Chutney | 13m | Average | |||
Rpt no 50 or so
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18 | ★ Centennial direct finish | 9m | Average | |||
The crag warm up now with bolts
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Mon 20th Jun 2022 - Watagans | ||||||
Monkey Face Turkey Walls | ||||||
19 | ★ Killer’eska | 17m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Was pressured into leading it….
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21 | ★★ Profanity | 14m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Rpt. A little greasy today, but not enough rain to make it dirty
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Fri 17th Jun 2022 - Watagans | ||||||
Monkey Face Central Gully | ||||||
18 | ★ Centennial direct finish | 9m | ★ Good | |||
Rpt, to try out the new ring bolts. A consumer classic now!
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18 | ★ Centennial direct finish | 9m | ★ Good | |||
Rpt, to try out the new ring bolts. A consumer classic now!
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Fri 17th Jun 2022 - Watagans | ||||||
Monkey Face Stopper Walls | ||||||
19 | ★ Clear and present danger | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Rpt. A bit dirty today but the holds are now all solid it seems
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24 | ★ Speak Easy | 6m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
MF answer to a campus board. A little bit of rope assistance on the crux move, but quite happy with my crimping today
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21 | ★ Ghetto Blaster | 7m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Rpt, pumpy and exposed for such a short route
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23 | ★★★ Weena | 30m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
One brief foot misstep, felt pretty good otherwise. The usual brown tree snake just below anchors. It didn’t move.
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Tue 14th Jun 2022 - Watagans | ||||||
Monkey Face Turkey Walls | ||||||
19 | ★★ Bereska | 18m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
The pinch pillar below the roof has partially disappeared but it doesn’t affect the grade
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19 | ★ Killer’eska | 17m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
A different start that’s more crimpy, the crux is still on Bereska which is quite sandbagged at 19
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21 | ★★ Profanity | 14m | ★★ Very Good | |||
The most comfortable I’ve felt on this
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Tue 14th Jun 2022 - Watagans | ||||||
Monkey Face Central Gully | ||||||
18 | ★ Centennial direct finish | 9m | Average | |||
Now all on ring bolts
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26 | ★ Jacob's Ladder | 20m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
I’m still keen on a right hand start. Super bouldery funky moves I can barely do, and the start feels harder than 26
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Sat 11th Jun 2022 - Watagans | ||||||
Gate Crag Central Buttress | ||||||
20 | ★★ Titania | 18m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Two laps, distracted by trying to find emergency dentist
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