Showing all 33 ascents.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | ||||||||||||||||
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Fri 2nd Aug 2024 - Piatra Craiului | |||||||||||||||||||
Valea Ciorânga Peretele Ciorânga Mare | |||||||||||||||||||
4 R2 |
Loz în frig
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1
R1
40
lead by
cristi rotaru
Easier than it looks. Crux is at the middle of the initial crack, great green cam placement at your chest. Sewn up on small/medium cams and offset nuts
2
R1
60
lead by
cristi rotaru
Bushwhack
3
R2
60
lead by
cristi rotaru
Took flight on a 5 move when my foothold broke. Upper half of this crack is quite friable, lots of loose boulders, which makes the pro not that great either. Then got so much adrenalin from taking flight on a gear belay that my very experienced partner had taken quite a while to build that I cruised the 6+ part on sight:))
4
4
20
lead by
cristi rotaru
Think we traversed higher than we should have. Oh well | 180m | |||||||||||||||||
Sat 8th Jun 2024 - Piatra Craiului | |||||||||||||||||||
Valea Ciorânga Peretele Ciorânga Mare | |||||||||||||||||||
4 |
★★★ Lespezile Lirei P1
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1
4
Bondar version | ||||||||||||||||||
Retreat off p2, runout was wetter than we would have liked
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Sun 2nd Jun 2024 - Piatra Craiului | |||||||||||||||||||
Padina lui Călineț Văi și brâne | |||||||||||||||||||
1B |
Brâul de Mijloc
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Partial from Valea Podurilor to Scocul Bun. Already in summer conditions, a bit of snow to avoid under the Ulcior but nothing special.
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Sun 2nd Jun 2024 - Piatra Craiului | |||||||||||||||||||
Valea Vlădușca - Vâlcelul Căldării Ocolite Văi și brâne | |||||||||||||||||||
1A |
Traseul Anghelide
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On descent
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Sat 13th Jan 2024 - Piatra Craiului | |||||||||||||||||||
Padina lui Călineț Văi și brâne | |||||||||||||||||||
1B |
Brâul de Sus
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Hornul N portion. Retreated pretty quickly due to shit snow
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1B |
Padina lui Călineț - firul principal
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Good snow up to Saritoarea Mare, snow deposits and some windslab above. Most obstacles partially uncovered. We roped up for the last big obstacle (my head not in it that day) and descended the way since climbing nontechnical terrain on shit snow in high winds didn't sound fun
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Mon 20th Nov 2023 - Piatra Craiului | |||||||||||||||||||
Padina lui Călineț Văi și brâne | |||||||||||||||||||
M2 |
Brâul de Mijloc
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A completely different fucking experience in unconsolidated winter snow. Our initial plan had been climbier, but blizzard conditions meant we decided to stick to easy alpine. Was ... not super easy. Also managed to take a tumble into the bushes near the bivy spot, lol. As the poem says, "agatat in vid de-un jneapan" XD
Did the bit from Scara de Fier to Amfiteatrul Coltilor Gemeni. Small detour on what was probably a portion of Braul cu Scorusi (we saw a mouse!) .Wanted to do the median portion of Valea Podurilor, but the entrance traverse would have been too sketchy (and impossible to protect) in the current conditions. Having nothing better to do, we tried to see if you can get from the lower saddle of ACG to the upper one on the ridge rather than by descending and ascending. You can, it's 1 40m pitch of M2 with marginal pro opportunities (climbing the "fang" itself is sketchy AF due to super chossy rock and the aforementioned shit pro, but there's a ledge to be taken left after the initial chimney) and 1 rap down off a tree near the ledge (red cordelette now on it) |
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Sat 18th Nov 2023 - Piatra Craiului | |||||||||||||||||||
Valea Vlădușca - Vâlcelul Căldării Ocolite Văi și brâne | |||||||||||||||||||
1A |
Traseul Anghelide
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On descent. Alpine rope technique class. 10-20cm snow
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M3 |
Vâlcelul Crăiței
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Alpine rope technique class. Straight up unti the traverse to Anghelide canyon, rather than taking any of the right chimneys.
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Sat 9th Sep 2023 - Piatra Craiului | |||||||||||||||||||
Padina lui Călineț Padina lui Călineț | |||||||||||||||||||
6+ A1 |
★★ Creasta Coarnele Caprei
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1
4+
40
lead by
Dana Bazacliu
Did the original pitch, belaying off a rock. Dana tried the 5+ leftmost variant (quite friable), I did the 4+ right one (not friable, but grassy, some pro opportunities available on the right). The theoretical new bolt belay is actually a single bolt, and the following 4+ chimney is only protected at the base, so we continued on the original pitch.
2
6+ A0
50
lead by
Dana Bazacliu
Did the old pitch, but broken down in 2 pitches (can't increase pitch number on thecrag), by using the new P1 belay (1 bolt, 1 tree, not 2 bolts like on the drawing) as an intermediate belay. First bit is cool but really pumpy - aided my way up until the overhanging dihedral, which I freed, but rested on the rope. 25m 7- if free Second bit just has 1 draw I pulled on, at the initial overhang, and then easy (5 or less) terrain to the belay at a rock. 25m 70
3
5-
60
lead by
Dana Bazacliu
Also broken down in 2 pitches on account of rope drag. Final belay on rock horn + red totem
4
6-
30
lead by
Dana Bazacliu
Did the original version, with the photogenic layback (protectable by slingable chockstone). Belayed at a rock right after reaching the ridge, since Dana wanted to warn me about a very loose rock on the ridge (still there, there were people in the gullies below). Bolt belay (2 bolts) is 10m onwards on the ridge, at the base of the first face, which would be a 50m pitch then.
5
3
30
lead by
Dana Bazacliu
Had almost forgotten about that bushwhack
6
6 A1
60
lead by
Dana Bazacliu
My favourite pitch. Accidentally stepped on a piton, so rather than 6/6+ let's say 6 A1.Fancy, balancy, well-protected 6 UIAA face climbing mixed with 5 UIAA friable alpine crap | 270m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||||||||||||||
Not quite the pitches in the CR drawing, since not all of the belays are actually where that shows them.
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Sun 3rd Sep 2023 - Piatra Craiului | |||||||||||||||||||
Valea Ciorânga Peretele Ciorânga Mare | |||||||||||||||||||
6+ |
★★★ Muchia Bondarului
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1
4
45m
lead by
Ruxandra V
Intermediate belay at the bushes since I forgot to turn right and climbed the peak instead
3
3
45m
lead by
Andrei Badea
Tried to lead, got scared above the bolt (felt there was ground fall potential with my long slings, still had 30m of terrain to do), switched leads
4
5
40m
lead by
Andrei Badea
Very airy and beautiful pitch, probably the most stylish
5
6+
45m
lead by
Andrei Badea
Rested on the rope a couple times in the crux but freed the moves. Reached the right exit all pumped, was informed I'd better not take a fall above the cam (red Totem, our largest) since it's a long pendulum to the point where ropes were slung across a horn. Waited until the pump went away, climbed half the crack, bumped the cam to a placement as high as I could reach, rested again, climbed the crack to good holds, reached down to remove the cam, continued. Still can't commit,it seems... | 260m, 3 | |||||||||||||||||
Thu 29th Jun 2023 - Piatra Craiului | |||||||||||||||||||
Padina lui Călineț Văi și brâne | |||||||||||||||||||
1B |
Brâul de Mijloc
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Not my day today. End up losing the line on the one bit I did before (Caprelor secondary - Padina lui Calinet). Find it again 1 overhang below me. Rap off a tree, rope a bloody mess. Get down, get myself off the rope, drop my reverso. Downclimb a gully, get my reverso back, climb a gully. Drop my trekking poles off my backpack. Somehow I managed to get home with all my gear, if not much left of my pride.
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1B |
Valea Podurilor - firul principal
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When you end up falling, twice, off a 2m tall 3 UIAA bit just because it's a tad lubey, it's a sign from God you're not supposed to solo the 12m slab that's next. Not today at least.
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Mon 19th Jun 2023 - Piatra Craiului | |||||||||||||||||||
Valea Vlădușca - Vâlcelul Căldării Ocolite Văi și brâne | |||||||||||||||||||
1B |
Valea Vlădușca - secundarul sudic
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On descent to Braul de Mijloc, the easy, Scocul Bun portion
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1A |
Vâlcelul Crăiței
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On Hornul Rosu. Then from Braul de Mijloc upwards, on a nameless gully + ridge between Scocul Bun and Valcelul Ulciorului
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Mon 19th Jun 2023 - Piatra Craiului | |||||||||||||||||||
Padina lui Călineț Văi și brâne | |||||||||||||||||||
1B |
Brâul de Mijloc
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Partial from Locul de cort Elis to Valea Podurilor. Descent on Muchia Cotofenei.
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Sun 18th Jun 2023 - Piatra Craiului | |||||||||||||||||||
Valea Ciorânga Văi și brâne | |||||||||||||||||||
1B |
Valea Ciorânga
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Partial, up to the Ceaun, since the day's target was Tunelurile lui Tontsch.
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1A |
Padina lui Râie
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Partial, on descent from Tunelurile lui Tontsch
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Sat 22nd Apr 2023 - Piatra Craiului | |||||||||||||||||||
Prăpăstiile Zărneștilor MCM | |||||||||||||||||||
7- Hard |
★★★ Le Slaubeause
![]() | 10m | ★★★ Classic | ||||||||||||||||
Route is really cool and v psychological. Graded as a 6 in the park topo, really closer to 7-/7 (not only my opinion). Could get to the third bolt, couldn't make it past the crux there. Need to problem solve more
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Sat 22nd Apr 2023 - Piatra Craiului | |||||||||||||||||||
Prăpăstiile Zărneștilor La Refugiu | |||||||||||||||||||
6 |
★ Diagonal
![]() | 25m | |||||||||||||||||
Tired and a bit off my game after Slabeause. Didn't have guts to lead it, was iffy about following it too but at least I got to the top
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Sat 22nd Apr 2023 - Piatra Craiului | |||||||||||||||||||
Prăpăstiile Zărneștilor Prăpăstii | |||||||||||||||||||
5 |
Memorial Gică Trufășilă
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Tried to play on mobiles with it, didn't really have as many good placements as I thought I would. Ended up doing it as a sport route with 1 shit nut and 1 halfdecent friend
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3A |
Traseul Începătorilor P1
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1
lead by
gabriel bazacliu
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Friable and poorly protected, albeit v easy. Decided it wasn't worth it
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Sat 1st Apr 2023 - Piatra Craiului | |||||||||||||||||||
Padina lui Călineț Văi și brâne | |||||||||||||||||||
M2 |
Brâul de Sus
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Hornul N portion, retreated at Saua cu Iarba due to snow conditions
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Sun 15th Jan 2023 - Piatra Craiului | |||||||||||||||||||
Valea Ciorânga Văi și brâne | |||||||||||||||||||
1A |
Vâlcelul cu Smirdar
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This is when the snow started getting shitty. The bushes are still partially uncovered so we weren't worried of anything big taking off, but we did crack a bunch of windslabs (still too small to slide much). Above Acul de la Amvon, the situation was clearly going to get dangerous on the usual linkup (top of Canionul Cioranga) so we did some careful crossing to Muchia Timbalului Mare (on bushes and a secondary ridge), which was possibly the best part of the climb - a snowy M2 ridge, reasonably exposed at times, we shortroped
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M3 |
★★ Vâlcelul cu Fereastră
![]() | ★★★ Classic | |||||||||||||||||
Short and sweet. 30cm of powder snow over bare rock. Mostly on a single Quark, used 2 on the penultimate obstacle for the slightly overhanging topout.
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Sun 16th Oct 2022 - Piatra Craiului | |||||||||||||||||||
Poiana Închisă Văi și brâne | |||||||||||||||||||
1B |
Brâul de Sus
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Partial, from Umerii Pietrei Craiului to La Lanturi
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Sun 16th Oct 2022 - Piatra Craiului | |||||||||||||||||||
Vâlcelul Căldării Ocolite Văi și brâne | |||||||||||||||||||
1A Hard |
★★★ Brâul de Mijloc
![]() | ★★★ Classic | |||||||||||||||||
On descent - one of my first real encounters with Piatra Craiului scree. Honestly got pretty scared a few times. 1 short rappel to avoid a 3 UIAA downclimb (had an iffy knee at this point, and wasn't super confident anymore)
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Sun 16th Oct 2022 - Piatra Craiului | |||||||||||||||||||
Valea Vlădușca - Vâlcelul Căldării Ocolite Văi și brâne | |||||||||||||||||||
1A |
Traseul Anghelide
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On descent from Braul de Mijloc
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Sun 16th Oct 2022 - Piatra Craiului | |||||||||||||||||||
Poiana Închisă Umărul de Jos | |||||||||||||||||||
Supporting theCrag is not only good for your Karma
it also gives you access to great benefits on theCrag and beyond. | |||||||||||||||||||
3+ |
★★ Umerii Pietrei Craiului
![]() | ★★ Very Good | |||||||||||||||||
Rope never left the backpack, did the route in less than 2h with plenty of time for sunbathing. We avoided the initial '&&(%^$%^$%' chimney on the right, and the rest of it was either not exposed or very very easy
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Fri 14th Oct 2022 - Piatra Craiului | |||||||||||||||||||
Padina lui Călineț Padina lui Călineț | |||||||||||||||||||
5 |
★★ Creasta Frumoasă
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1
4
40
lead by
Andrei Badea
We found an extra peg on the right, 2m above the start (not the one on the left that makes your ropes drag). First time on Piatra Craiului limestone, long and balancy moves for the grade, I feel. Utterly lovely. Would have liked a sling around the horn at the chimney exit since the move is unprotected for the second (there's a piton under it for the leader) and falling on it means a 5m pendulum, but there comes a point in a woman's life when she needs to accept that she doesn't fall on 4 UIAA moves on dry sturdy rock in perfect conditions. There's an argument to be had against slinging that horn since it'd need a pretty long sling not to introduce some rather gnarly rope drag (we didn't have anything longer than 120cm, and not many of those either), I think a good compromise would be slinging it but not clipping the rope in it on lead, so when the second reaches the Move they can clip into it beforehand and remove it 15 seconds later - voila, no drag!
2
5
40
lead by
Andrei Badea
Meat of the route, two cracks with good holds and long and balancy moves - such a different style than my native Bicaz, I feel. Crux is supposedly on the first, pitoned-out crack (a balancy snaky layback on a stuck flake to reach from 1 set of good footholds to another set of good footholds) but I felt the move on the no-fixed-gear second crux was harder - think there's better beta than the balance-on-one-high-foot-and-reach-up thing I did though. We used a bunch of small friends (BD 0.4 to 1) and slings for pro
3
2
45
lead by
Andrei Badea
From here on up it's an easy scramble on the ridge, with little pro possibility (sling the occasional bullshit, but life's pretty friable here) but on super easy terrain. Belay when you find a good rock.
4
4-
55
lead by
Andrei Badea
Most of it is more UIAA 1 easy scrambling, with a small chimney at the end (easy, obvious moves) | 180m | ★★★ Classic | ||||||||||||||||
Crux of the route was a boulder problem on the approach, which we found dripping wet, with moving boulders on the top-out (would have been great holds otherwise, this way I had to chimney it). Also, our initial anchor was a pretty crap boulder. Above that on the actual ridge, the rock was dry and lovely. Gear used: small friends, 6 alpine draws, 4 120cm slings
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Sun 8th May 2022 - Piatra Craiului | |||||||||||||||||||
Padina lui Călineț Văi și brâne | |||||||||||||||||||
1B |
Valea Podurilor - firul principal
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Until Saua Caprelor, where we crossed over. Decentish snow, everything covered.
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1A |
Vâlcelul Caprelor
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On descent, between Saua Caprelor and Braul de Mijloc
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1B |
Padina lui Călineţ - firul principal
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In spring conditions, a very easy F. Good snow and preexisting footprints. Apparently way more fun once you need to actually climb rock
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Showing all 33 ascents.