Ascents in Hell's Gate by Alex C

This route was so good -- my favorite of the trip. The main section has the best rock I found at Hells Gate, both solid and grippy. The meat of the climb was a burly section of engaging crack moves (definitely sustained enough to be solid HVS in the UK). The start is just to the left of the large tree at the base of the grey buttress that can be seen to the left of No Angels on the topo image here. Note that the last 15 or so meters after the ledge are VERY crumbly, not difficult but a bit awkward/off-balance. You can descend by rapping off a tree, coming down over what I think is Black Widow. Having scrambled back to the top to deal with a stuck rope before rapping down again, I think walking off would be scary as it's a bit loose with a sheer drop on one side, and the path may be difficult to locate from above.

felt like a sandbag purely for the tension sequence, which was desperate — and a fall would produce a nasty pendulum on sun-bleached tat tied to a very old peg.