Ascents as Red point or Ground up red point as trad by Marco de Jongh

Awesome to finally do this one on lead, I still remember having a really bad time on it 5years ago when I had just started climbing and had no clue how to jam.

I worried all the people saying double rack is fine were sandbaggers, so instead I made my own life significantly harder by bringing quads of mid size cams, double rack plus an extra 2 would have been plenty.

Definitely the best 19 I've tried!

The start is a bit spooky, backed off the first attempt so wont call it an onsight, but it still felt like an onsight to me.

Thought I still had unfinished business with this "14", But just checking the crag I've learned that I had already redeemed myself and that 3 years ago I also thought it was a 14.

Also, now I know why they say not to crack climb after rain, god was this climb wet, mossy and spoogey.

Felt much easier than the last time I tried it 3 years ago. Mega classic route, so good!

Amnesia onsight?

Get to rickety kate, must be out of crack practice as this felt scary & hard

First frog 20 🥳, and an old demon slain.

Took down low because I climbed myself into a bit of trouble by being too eager to reach the first ledge. Upon taking, my .3 skated all the way to the edge but thankfully it held, good I didn't whip on it 😅.

Down climbed and stripped gear, for a very desperate but clean send on the 2nd go. Would have been nice to have triples of .5 and .75, spent ages trying to figure out gear for the last .75 size section of thr climb, but nothing else fit and I had wisely not brought any big nuts. After nearly trembling off I placed a shitty .4 for emotional support and blasted to the finish ledge.

Good fun finally getting to lead 1 of my favourite routes!

Took me a couple of tries to figure out the start, and still nearly peeled off, onsighted the rest. What an amazing route! I keep getting on 3 star classics thinking to myself this must be the best route I've ever climbed, only to have my mind blown by the next one yet again

Felt much easier than Saturday, a very worthy alternative to Tannin

Didn't expect this to feel so much easier the 2nd time on. Awesome climbing, really nice flow after the boulder-y start

Very fun & flowy for an "access climb"

Gabby did an excellent job leading P1 as her first trad 17.

Had done this before, but for the life of me couldn't remember P2. Until I pulled around and got a good view of the traverse, and the memories of my sheer terror even on second came flooding back.

The traverse felt a lot easier despite climbing into a trap, but god was it hard getting established into the chimney.

Led p1 which was alright. Gabby accidentally climbed into P2 of D Major.

Got nearly as scared on this as 2.5 years ago, but only half as pumped 💪

Such a fun adventure! Got a little bit confused route finding at P1, looking for the sport anchor to the left is probably what I should have done from the beginning. P2 felt much easier than my memory, P3 still seemed intimidating but wish it was longer.

Somehow managed to lose my sandal at the start of P3, but luckily it dropped all the way to the ground landing 10m to the side of the rapel landing spot.

Cleaning up an old dog, felt significantly easier than 2 years ago

What a fun route! Nice and varied

Repeat, felt a lot easier than last time but I should probably run it out less

Cleaning up old dogs

Gunning the rope up

Only made it up 1/4 the first time I tried this 9 months ago, so awesome to see us finally tick this. Did run out of gear at the top even though I started with 5 #2s 😅

Had bailed on this before, good to finally send it, climbed it thinking it was only a 14

Warmup rpt

Fun climb, bit hard to guess cam sizes because of how the crack is

Quick repeat of my first ever trad lead, moves felt alot easier but for some reason way more terrified, maybe because I better understand the dodgy-ness of the gear

The gear is a bit fiddely for the novice trad leader that I am. Had to place lots of creative wires

The arete is a lot scarier on lead, stayed in the chimney as much as possible

The bulge puts up a good fight

My first trad lead