Showing all 25 ascents.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Date | |||
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7b | ★★ Schwing mei Ding Extension (Schwing mei Ding) | 26m | Pha Tam Kam | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 4th Feb 2020 | |||
#2go another V3/4 roof problem on top of the first pitch. Use head to push against the roof for no hand resting. Then hit the jug right, many toe and heel hook and pull up. My first 7b /5.12b
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5.12b | ★★ Night Watch | 18m, 8 | 房山 Fangshan District | ★★ Very Good | Sun 16th May 2021 | |||
难点在中段,V3/4。臂展长有优势,不同身高的人beta会差很多。 #3go
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5.12b ~5.11d | ★★ 战龙在野 - with lollypop | 17m, 8 | 枣庄 Zao Zhuang | ★★ Very Good | Thu 6th Apr 2023 | |||
一天阴雨,出点阳光就灿烂。有挂还是简单不少。 #3go 屋檐下正好热身,翻过两个连续屋檐是难点,最后也别掉以轻心,手脚点有限,不要犯错。
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5.12b ~5.12a | ★★★ 幸运日 / Lucky day - with lollypop | 15m, 7 | 马山 MaShan | ★★★ Classic | Fri 1st Jan 2021 | |||
5.12b | ★★ 熊猫眼 Panda eye - with 小哈 | 24m, 9 | 昆明 Kunming | ★★ Very Good | Wed 5th May 2021 | |||
和旁边的'临时工'节奏类似:平台上一个小难点,熊猫眼休息,接着一个主要难点。两个我都是用极限臂展deadpoint通过的,真香。特别是主要难点,能少扣两个crimp直接反肩指力点,简单些。臂展长(>180)的人有优势, 短的就要多扣扣了。 难点往右偏一些会简单,不过会用到一个"临时工"的大点,应该不是定线意图。加上去年的1把,一共 #3go
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5.12b | ★★ Dwarf Toss | 8m, 4 | Sonora Pass | Sat 1st Jun 2019 | ||||
Bouldery traverse to the right at the the first bolt is the crux
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5.12b | ★★ 发发要命 - with lollypop | 27m, 13 | 六盘水 Liupanshui | ★★ Very Good | Wed 9th Aug 2023 | |||
耐力不够,以后再说
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5.12b | ★ 奇迹 | 25m, 9 | 萧县天门寺 | ★ Good | Sun 10th Mar 2019 | |||
下半段5.10难度。小屋檐下到顶难度均匀,需要指力
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5.12b 5.12a | ★★ Medicinal - with 可可 | 17m, 11 | 临安狮头岩 Lion's Head | Sun 24th May 2020 | ||||
时间不够了,第一个屋檐下的扣扣动态和后面的仰角横切是拉快挂过的。翻第一个屋檐挂左脚比较简单。
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5.12b | ★★★ 中国白 China White - with lollypop | 20m, 9 | 阳朔 Yangshuo | Fri 19th Feb 2021 | ||||
折膝上大洞没到...
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5.12b | ★★★ 罗米娜 Romina | 15m, 9 | 昆明 Kunming | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 4th May 2021 | |||
分动作
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5.12b | ★★★ 晕头转向 - Dizzy Circling (晕头转向) | 25m, 8 | 石鼓 Shigu | ★★★ Classic | Tue 8th Oct 2019 | |||
天花板需要比较好的脚法和核心,要做不少勾挂脚、bicycle、直升机、kneebar等技巧。时而头朝前,时而脚朝前,晕头转向。
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5.12b | ★★ Big Trouble Little China | 14m, 9 | 临安狮头岩 Lion's Head | Average | Sat 8th Sep 2018 | |||
Crux near the top
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5.12b | ★★★ 六六大顺 | 15m, 6 | 枣庄 Zao Zhuang | ★★ Very Good | Sat 6th Apr 2019 | |||
前4个挂片含7个V3的抱石动作。之后就简单了。长臂展和短臂展的beta应该会差很多。1 take,犯了个低级错误
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5.12b | ★★★ 飘 — 2 attempts - with lollypop | 15m, 8 | 枣庄 Zao Zhuang | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 8th Apr 2023 | |||
耐力完全不够
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5.12b | ★★★ 小糖人 / Small sugar man - with lollypop | 82m, 13 | 马山 MaShan | ★★★ Classic | Fri 1st Jan 2021 | |||
第二个难点掉了,flash失败。比 '幸运日' 难。
沿钟乳上,两个钟乳都能休息,后面都是难点。 第一个难点我够高,直接够到好点,并不难。 第二个钟乳可以kneebar休息,难点没找到简单的beta,用了一个挺难的左手指洞反肩上右高脚对抗的动作过了,V4的动作吧,比较吃核心,估计爬难了。 等腰好了再来试试。
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5.12b | ★★ 天人合一 | 20m, 10 | 镇江 | ★ Good | Sun 19th May 2019 | |||
顶部难点
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5.12b 5.12a | ★★ 破裤子 | 30m, 12 | 咸宁 | ★★ Very Good | Sun 25th Oct 2020 | |||
下半段直壁face,上半段裂缝layback。需要耐力的长线,上裂缝开始是难点
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7b | ★★ Café Andaman | 10m, 4 | Ton Sai | ★★★ Classic | Sat 21st Dec 2019 | |||
7b | ★★★ Work-Life Balance | 20m, 11 | Pha Tam Kam | Mon 3rd Feb 2020 | ||||
Left hand crimp, retreat.
又被左手crimp劝退... |
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5.12b | ★★ 图腾 Totem (图腾) | 8 | 石鼓 Shigu | Mon 30th Sep 2019 | ||||
难点是下半段仰角抱石
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5.12b | ★★★ 奇异 Singularity - with Ashley | 26m, 9 | 阳朔 Yangshuo | Sun 9th Oct 2022 | ||||
5.12b | ★★★ Grotto Monkey | 8m, 4 | Sonora Pass | Sat 1st Jun 2019 | ||||
Reachy, bouldery, power. Not good timing to climb around noon!
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5.12b | Gear on Kneepad ★★★ 陷阱 - with lollypop | 16m, 11 | 六盘水 Liupanshui | Sun 6th Aug 2023 | ||||
向右横切掉了,回不去了,心态有点崩
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5.12b | ★★★ 猴子洞3右1 - with 和尚 | 33m | 江油腰悬岩 | ★★★ Classic | Mon 5th Oct 2020 | |||
当地岩友说是10d,帮忙收挂... 第一个大屋檐就不友善,大概5.11+的动作才通过。 后面有个横切,crimp没什么脚点...通过后走错了方向,看还有10多米,就下降了。 下来后说后面没难点了。。。暴露感很强的长线
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Showing all 25 ascents.