Guidebooks
Help

Ascents as trad by Francesco Mancino

Searching in:

Ascent filters:

  • Milestone
  • Protection
  • Wearable
  • Journey
-

Route filters:

Climber filters:

Sort by:

Showing 1 - 100 out of 130 ascents.

Grade Route Gear style Quality
Wed 14th Aug 2024 - Bohuslän
Kungshamn Holländarberget
6- En Pärla i Smögen - with tim Trad 10m Good
Thought start, need to know how to jam! Amazing location, but the route is a bit short.

 
Tue 13th Aug 2024 - Bohuslän
Nordens Ark Svaneberget i Sotenäs
6- Easy Bohusvals - with ben Trad 20m Average
Indiana Jones feeling on this one. Some good moves, but too much vegetation.

 
6+ Höstsonaten - with ben Mixed trad 35m, 1
Took a fall on the very top, where it traverses into berkristisk polska. Managed to get my foot stuck in the rope while clipping a blindly placed cam, that did eventually hold the fall! Need to work on layback on lead. The route is great, committing at times, but solid placements and lots of different slab climbing.

 
6- Bergkirstis Polska - with ben Trad 35m Mega Classic
Sun 11th Aug 2024 - Bohuslän
Lyse & Brastad Stale
6- Jakob - with Ben Trad 23m Good
Slabby climbing, trust your feet!

 
4 Bosse - with Ben Trad 20m Good
Very straightforward, good route for beginners.

 
5+ Mia - with Ben Trad 23m Very Good
Tricky positions, but well protected. Fun!

 
Sun 28th Jul 2024 - Södermanland
Simonsberget
5a Siste man hem - with Ola Trad Average
Good jams, pretty short.

 
5c ~6a Kamarina - with Ola Trad 24m Very Good
So much climbing! From offwidth to fingers and jugs! Very long and rewarding climb, not over until it is over.

 
5b ~5c Notan - with Ola Trad 10m Good
Nice jams, one trycky move. Done toghethner with kamarina.

 
6a Kristi himmelsfärd — 2 attempts - with Ola Trad 20m Very Good
Slab crux, where I slippped off 8 years ago... And again now! Good that it is well protected, bring small cams and nuts!

 
Fri 26th Jul 2024 - Runsa
Huvudväggen
6- ~6 Vampyren - with Sam Tidswell Trad 17m Classic
Stockholm classic, one of the few routes here that rivals bohuslän. Incredibly pumpy. Was on it 8 years ago, today whent "onsight".

 
Sat 20th Jul 2024 - Uddeuddberget
Sydväggen
6b Swing it magistern - with davids, Matt Evans, simon Trad 20m
Hard crux in the end, much easier if you know where the holds are. Good gear placements, fun route.

 
Tue 4th Jun 2024 - Ryssgraven
5+ Aurora - with Ola Trad 15m Very Good
For stockholm, this is a really nice trad lead. A little sparse in protection in the start, then good moves on bomber gear.

 
Sun 12th May 2024 - Bohuslän
Brodalen Galgeberget Stora Galgeberget Sydväggen
5+ Q.Robur - with Ola Trad 35m Very Good
Crux in the beinning and the very end. Really pretty long route, good job Ola!

 
Sun 12th May 2024 - Bohuslän
Brodalen Galgeberget Stora Galgeberget Västväggen
6+ Easy Bagatell - with Ola Trad 25m Classic
Lots of climbing in those 20m! Definitely easyer if you are tall, and more technical than it looks (dihedral feet!). Fiddled a bit with a placement, but managed to send anyways!

 
Sat 11th May 2024 - Bohuslän
Hallinden Högberget
6- ~6 Karl Alfred — 2 attempts - with Ola Trad 17m Classic
Took a fall on a cam that I had troble committing to, but it held well! Varied route, with a lot of climbing and a hard crux.

 
5- Romperampen - with Ola Trad 40m Very Good
Trevlig tur upp för berget, spännande sva följd av stemming och stora grepp.

 
6 Jantesprickan - with Ola Trad 30m Good
My first bohuslän 6! This is a route that you climb with your whobe body, was also my first real knebar. A journey into the rock.

 
Fri 10th May 2024 - Bohuslän
Hallinden Vettekullen Stora väggen
7- Jum jum - with Ola Trad 22m
Small jams lead to a crympy crux, then easyer but fun climbing. Super well protected, good first try on a 7-.

 
6- Tröttmössans tystnad - with Ola Trad 22m Very Good
Very exposed, good holds and a reachy well protected crux. Good start of the vacation!

 
4+ Cora - with Ola Trad 25m Very Good
Nice jams and offwith. A camalot nr.5 could be good to have.

 
Fri 10th May 2024 - Bohuslän
Hallinden Vettekullen Nedre
6- Hard Free at first - with Ola Trad 12m Very Good
Good placements lead to a cool boulder crux with high feet, did feel a bit like sport climbing.

 
Sat 30th Mar 2024 - Södermanland
Simonsberget
6b ~6b+ Raclette - with Matt Evans Trad Classic
Amazing climbing, but a bit runout start. Took a fall on my onsight attept, then managed to follow clean. Lots of igeniuos cruxes.

 
6b Ricks utsteg - with Matt Evans Trad 10m Good
Took my first proper trad wipper on it, many years ago. Today felt good as a second.

 
5c Direttissiman - with Matt Evans
1 Trad
2 Second
Trad 25m Classic
Fri 29th Mar 2024 - Södermanland
Simonsberget
5c Pelaren - with Matt Evans
1 Second
2 Trad

Fist jam! First lead of the season.

3 Second
Trad 35m Very Good
6 Toppsprickan - with Matt Evans Trad 10m Good
So rusty! Techy route, took me a while with the last placement but whent well. Followed on it many years ago.

 
Sat 29th Jul 2023 - Brattberget
Stora väggen
6- Rätt Medicin - with Ola Mixed trad 35m, 1 Good
Long and even route, with good moves in scenic setting. Could use some cleaning.

 
Tue 25th Jul 2023 - Lofoten
Austvågøy Kalle-området Kallebukta Apa
6- ~6 Apa - with Ola Trad 15m Very Good
Good first jams on the top of boulder overlooking the beach. Flowy and hard, really glad to send it 7 years after I fist tried it. On send run i used two #4 and one #3.

 
Mon 24th Jul 2023 - Lofoten
Austvågøy Festvåg Store Festvåg
6- Skiløperen - with Ola Trad 40m Classic
Great combination of hand jams and jugs, whith just a little overhang to not make it too easy. Middle crack was a bit wet, but could be climbed anyways. Bring a lot of cams!

 
Mon 24th Jul 2023 - Lofoten
Austvågøy Festvåg Lille Festvåg
6- Gaukerisset - with Ola
1 3+ 20 Second
2 6- 45 Trad
Trad 65m Very Good
Atletic and committing crux, then super long and pretty chill crack, with crazy exposure.

 
Sun 23rd Jul 2023 - Lofoten
Austvågøy Kalle-området Paradiset Main Cliff
4+ Lett bris - with Ola Trad Average
Sun 23rd Jul 2023 - Lofoten
Austvågøy Kalle-området Paradiset Svenske Diedret
6+ Svenske Diedret — 2 attempts - with Ola Trad 20m Very Good
My first "real" trad redpoint. I fell on the crux a couple of times, then used aid to set up a top-rope on the crux. Figured out the beta and sent on the first red-point go. Very tecnical route, super fun!

 
Sun 23rd Jul 2023 - Lofoten
Austvågøy Kalle-området Paradiset Butter Arms
5+ Cant believe its not butter - with Ola Trad Good
A #5 cam would have been useful in the end. Fun route!

 
Sun 23rd Jul 2023 - Lofoten
Austvågøy Kalle-området Paradiset Living in Paradise
5 Living in Paradise - with Ola Trad 20m Very Good
Sat 22nd Jul 2023 - Lofoten
Austvågøy Pianokrakken
4+ Pianohandler Lunds Rute - with Ola
1 4 35m Second
2 4+ 20m Trad
3 4+ 20m Second

led part of it.

4 4+ 30m Trad
Trad 110m Good
A bit discontinuos, but fun and pretty.

 
Sat 22nd Jul 2023 - Lofoten
Austvågøy Vågakallen
4+ Nordryggen - with Ola Trad 510m Classic
Ett riktigt alpint äventyr. 14tim bil till bil. Ledde alla 4or, som visade sig vara riktigt fina och krävande på olika vis. Fantastska utsikt, mycket exponering.

 
Thu 20th Jul 2023 - Lofoten
Austvågøy Pianokrakken Maurpillaren
6 Pizzatyven - with Ola
1 5- 30m Trad
2 5- 25m Trad
3 6 12m Trad
4 5 15m Trad
5 5+ 18m Trad
Trad 100m Classic
Very good route! The crack pitches felt hard for the grade, but the 6 crux pitch felt relatively easy... maybe spent too much time in the gym?

 
Thu 20th Jul 2023 - Lofoten
Austvågøy Pianokrakken
5+ Appelcake Arete - with Ola
1 Trad
2 Trad
Trad 60m Good
Nice route! First pitch is a bit bold, second one pretty hard for the grade, but beatiful!

 
Wed 19th Jul 2023 - Lofoten
Austvågøy Gandalf Gandalf Main
6- Guns n' Roses - with Ola
1 5 40m Trad
2 6- 25m Trad
3 6- 25m Trad
Trad 90m Very Good
Beatuful! Every pitch had good and varied climbing, first pitch you have to commit but get rewarded!

 
5 Gandalf - with Ola
1 5 40 Trad
2 5- 35 Trad
3 5- 25 Trad
Trad 100m Good
Start trickier than expected. Eagles nest at midnight was magical!

 
5 Gollum - with Ola
1 5 Trad
2 5- Trad
3 5- Trad
Trad 110m
Comminting first crux, then easier. Nice crack in the middle.

 
Mon 17th Jul 2023 - Ringkallen
Fikaväggen
5+ ~6- Amaretto — 2 attempts - with Ola Trad 15m Very Good
Fin och varierad. Tog en riktig whipper i mitten, sen klättrade från början med säkringar i.

 
6a Easy Jerry vad gör du - with Ola Trad 20m
Fin start. Ganska lätt om man kan sina jams.

 
Mon 17th Jul 2023 - Ringkallen
Kaminväggen
5 Ulriks kamin - with Ola Trad Classic
Välsäkrad, exponerad och "lätt om man gör rätt". Roligaste kaminen jag har klättrat i sverige!

 
Mon 26th Jun 2023 - Törnskogsklippan
Järnpinneväggen
4b Järnpinnar Trad 8m Good
Tycke den har var mycket finare en förvätad. Kul med stora sprickor och stora grepp. Bra säkringar.

 
Mon 5th Jun 2023 - Bohuslän
Brodalen Galgeberget Stora Galgeberget Sydväggen
5- Uppkomsten - with Ola Trad 35m
Fin, ger lite bergbestigarkänsla!

 
4+ Kaskelottens Återuppstigning - with Ola Trad 30m
kul avslut!

 
Mon 5th Jun 2023 - Bohuslän
Brodalen Galgeberget Stora Galgeberget Västväggen
6- Mutant variant - with Ola Trad 35m Very Good
Tung start, man måste kunna jamma! Resten lättare. Fin.

 
5+ Palimpsest - with Ola Trad 40m Classic
Lång och jämn i svårighet. En riktigt fin resa i graniten!

 
Sun 4th Jun 2023 - Bohuslän
Hallinden Hallinden Stora Väggen
6- Prismaster - with Ola
1 Second
2 Trad

Ta med mycket kilar! Fin, coola sekvenser följda av bra vilor. Varit på den 7 år tidigare, kändes som onsight.

Trad 50m Very Good
Sat 3rd Jun 2023 - Bohuslän
Bovallstrand Ävja Main
4 Tassel - with Ola Trad 35m
4- Tissel - with Ola Trad 35m
4- Diagonalen - with Ola Trad 30m Very Good
Just nice and chill. Took the higher crack after the bush.

 
Sat 3rd Jun 2023 - Bohuslän
Bovallstrand Tåsteröds Vatten
6- ~6 Nixten - with Ola Trad 20m Classic
Beatiful climb. Harder start than i thought, that got me a bit scared, the ending is worth it thought!

 
Sat 15th Apr 2023 - Ryssgraven
Supporting theCrag is not only good for your Karma
it also gives you access to great benefits on theCrag and beyond.
3 En liten grön Klet - with Ola, Claudia Trad 22m
Great position to take pictures of ett moln i byxor.

 
Sun 31st Jul 2022 - Nyckelviksberget
Main
6a Baklås - with Ola Trad Good
nice reletively long sequence. maybe went a bit to the side in the end.

 
Sat 16th Jul 2022 - Häggsta
Rampväggen
5b R Gericomplex - with Ola Trad 12m Average
bailed halfway when leading it, the crux is badly protected. Not surprised it was soloed as a first ascent...

 
Sat 16th Jul 2022 - Nissedal
Hægefjell
6- Reven - with Ola
1 4+ 60 Trad
2 5- 52 Trad
3 6- 55 Trad
4 5 45 Trad
5 5 55 Trad
6 3 45 Trad
7 2 50 Trad
Mixed trad 360m, 20 Good
Very pretty. super fun slab bolted pitch in the end.

 
Fri 15th Jul 2022 - Nissedal
Hægefjell
5 Sternschnuppe - with Ola
1 4+ 40 Trad
2 5 40 Trad
3 4+ 50 Trad
4 4 50 Trad
5 4+ 50 Trad
6 4 45 Trad
7 4+ 45 Trad
8 4 45 Trad
9 3 40 Trad
Trad 410m Very Good
very fun climbing, runout at times, need to feel confy in the grade.

 
Thu 14th Jul 2022 - Nissedal
Hægefjell
4 Via Lara - with Ola
1 4- 50 Trad
2 4- 50 Trad
3 4- 50 Trad
4 4 50 Trad
5 4 50 Trad
6 4- 50 Trad
7 3+ 50 Trad
Trad 350m Good
very pretty and easy climb, pity that there are soo many people on it...

 
Sun 29th May 2022 - Bohuslän
Brodalen Häller Mallorolväggen
4+ Kaminen - with Ola Trad 30m
Riktigt alpinkänsla, en helhets-upplevelse. Gjörde 2 pitch.

 
Sat 28th May 2022 - Bohuslän
Nordens Ark Stranderäng
4+ Hard Örnen - with Ola Trad 30m Average
Real adventure climbing, hard approach.

 
Sat 28th May 2022 - Bohuslän
Nordens Ark Nordens ark
4 Easy Ödhumlan - with Ola Trad 40m Good
easy, en riktig 4.

 
5+ Järven - with Ola Trad 40m Average
görde topout till vänster, mot snögeten, missade dom fina hyllorna.

 
Fri 27th May 2022 - Bohuslän
Brodalen Rågårdsdal
4+ Toker och Glader - with Ola Trad 19m Average
4+ Drömmar om Snövit - with Ola Trad 17m Average
Sun 17th Sep 2017 - Bohuslän
Nordens Ark Nordens ark
6- Easy Berguven Trad 35m Average
Trevlig spricka

 
Sat 16th Sep 2017 - Bohuslän
Lyse & Brastad Lyse kyrka Brappersberget Sydväggen
5 Big Ben Trad 25m Good
Kul! Jamn

 
6- Sacre-Coeur Trad 30m Very Good
Läslig att leda! Men väldigt fin ;-) klarade den på första försöket idag, men hade föjt på den för typ ett år sen.

 
Sun 30th Jul 2017 - Ågelsjön
Divaväggen
5 Divaleden Trad 11m Average
Sat 29th Jul 2017 - Ågelsjön
Röda Oktoberväggen
4 Bloody Sunday Mixed trad 8m, 1
Sat 22nd Oct 2016 - Gåseborg
Gula Väggen
6a Broken Leeper - with lukas Trad 12m Good
Jam!

 
5a Myrstigen - with lukas Trad 12m Good
Sat 22nd Oct 2016 - Gåseborg
Djävulsväggen
6a+ Camp Romsdal - with lukas Trad 15m Good
Tuff att säkra, men rolig klättring!

 
6 Wall Hall Mixed trad 9m, 2 Average
Sat 6th Aug 2016 - Lofoten
Austvågøy Gandalf Gandalf Main
6 Tromsø ekspressen Trad 95m Classic
Nice layback in the beginning!

 
6 Gamle rev Trad 110m Classic
Brilliant route, much raster than it looks! Have fun!

 
Fri 5th Aug 2016 - Lofoten
Austvågøy Svolvær- området Svolværgeita
5+ Forsida Trad 120m Classic
The most aestetically pleasing Line of this grade I ever climbed! The last tree pitches are simply magnificent, exposed, easy but not banal.

 
Thu 4th Aug 2016 - Lofoten
Austvågøy Presten Presten
6 Vestpillaren
1 5+ 45 Trad
2 6- 40 Second
3 6 45 Trad
4 5- 25 Second
5 4 30 Trad
6 6- 45 Second
7 6 45 Trad
8 5+ 40 Second
9 6 45 Trad
10 4+ 30 Second
11 5 35 Second
12 3 55 Trad
Trad 480m Classic
Classic, but so much People! 14 ours of which 6 waiting in Line...

 
Tue 2nd Aug 2016 - Lofoten
Austvågøy Kalle-området Paradiset Storsvaet
4 Storsvaet Trad 30m Very Good
Sun 17th Jul 2016 - Bohuslän
Hallinden Hallinds Klack Vänster
4- Morgonkaffe Trad 18m
Jättebra säkrad, perfekt för nybörjare!

 
6- Våroffer Trad 25m Very Good
Jättefin verierad klättring! Roliga rörelser i början och exponerad teknisk spricka i slutet! Grym stenkvalite... vad vill man ha mer??

 
Sat 16th Jul 2016 - Bohuslän
Brodalen Rågårdsdal
5- Till De Utpsykade Cragråttorna Trad 17m Good
Fin för graden, bra jams!

 
Sun 3rd Jul 2016 - Grönbrink
5- Dr Grankvise möter bonden Trad 25m Good
Fin klättring för graden, spännande travers!

 
Sat 11th Jun 2016 - Ryssgraven
5b Easy Dimman Lättar Mixed trad 18m, 1 Good
Really Good placements and cool rock formation. As many routes in ryssgraven it is easy for the grade and i would recomend it to somebody starting to trad

 
5 Lilla Syster Kanin Trad 15m Average
Fri 10th Jun 2016 - Hallstaberget
4b ~5a Direttissman Trad Good
Mycket fin klättring! Dock hade jag alldrig sagt att den är en 4!

 
3b Den enda riktiga leden Trad
Sun 5th Jun 2016 - Häggsta
Fyrbultsväggen
3 Sjuan Trad Classic
Hur kan man ha så roligt på en trea? Fantastisk klättring, andra pitchen är riktigt bra, men kanske lite luftig för den ovane.

 
Sun 5th Jun 2016 - Häggsta
Treanväggen
5c Hard Gillis insteg Trad Very Good
Mycket roligt krux, hårt för att vara femma. Föjde på den för ett tag sen och var roligt att göra den på led nu!

 
4c Treochenhalvan Trad 15m Good
Mycket fin klättring, i toppen av häggsta! Jämn, välsakrad och krävande för sin grad. Slutet blir lite säkrare om man har en pinkie ;-)

 
Tue 31st May 2016 - Häggsta
Fyrbultsväggen
4+ Fyrbulten Trad 35m Good
Direkta varianten.

 
Sun 22nd May 2016 - Häggsta
Omöjliga väggen
6 Omöjliga Väggen Trad 33m Very Good
Otroligt fin klättring, väldigt jämt för graden! Dock så är leden extremt seriöst och hade nog alldrig vågat mig på det utan säkringstips och lite support från kompisar som hade klättrat det. Skulle avråda att klättra den om man inte känner sig helt solid på att klättra 6or, i min fall fanns det risk för markfall från typ 7 meter höjd.

 
Sat 7th May 2016 - Bohuslän
Hallinden Hallinden Terassväggen
6 Pekkas Diplomtur Trad 22m
Approximate date. Remember it felt super pumpy, really would like to try it again some day!

 
Sat 7th May 2016 - Bohuslän
Bärfendal Välseröd Villskuddväggen
4 Jungfrun Trad 40m Good
Fin tur på berget! Jungfrun bjuder på goda minner

 
6- Villskudd Trad 40m Mega Classic
Klart den finaste leden jag har klarat. Så jämn, så spännande, så lång!

 
Sat 7th May 2016 - Bohuslän
Brodalen Häller Stora Väggen
5 Den gamla klassikern Trad 40m Very Good
Jättefin, fast man behöver minst en STOR friend, större en #4 camalot, för att undervika riktigt farliga runouts.

 
Sat 7th May 2016 - Bohuslän
Nordens Ark Svaneberget i Sotenäs
5+ Svanslös Trad 20m Good
Fin och kontinuerligt svaklättring.

 

Showing 1 - 100 out of 130 ascents.