Ascents in Portugal by Rui Fonseca

Warm up, already had forgotten how to do the crux moves

Linked until the 5th draw but a wrong right hand move had me flying off the wall. Then linked until the top

Probably the best route I have climbed in the Valongo area. Aesthetic line with amazing holds from start to finish

Very cool movement on vertical wall with crimps and side pulls and underclings.

Okay holds but weird moves

Fun start on jugs with an amazing rest, then an interesting crux that was quite easy to figure out, and then the route kinda ends, on the top there are some cool holds but the protection is quite bad, you could easily hit the ledge bellow. Also a lot friction on the rope and places where rope goes against sharp edges.

Didn't like the exposed route base

Amazing route, slight overhang start on good holds and feet, and cool moves to get over the roof on undercling tufa and a crack with jugs. First try I got really optimised beta and did all the moves resting once on the first fixed draw. On the second and third attempts I fell around the same spot, on the crimp just bellow the roof and going up to the undercling tufa. On the fourth attempt I managed to get the undercling and get my feet up, right hand to the crack and shift the weight there, left hand also in and go again with the right hand in the crack jugs, to then get the left hand pocket but in that moment I felt I was going to lose it, my left foot was badly placed and overall in an awkward position but somehow managed to get my right foot up (and at the same time I found my power scream - "MERDAAA" ) and go right hand shoulder to the holds to the right, which were very wet as it was raining that day (but everything up to there was dry) but managed to hold on and get into the rest position and clip the second fixed draw from there (which was already bellow my waist). From there it was only a few easy slabby moves to the top. Super excited with my send as I was not expecting it, first 7b send after only getting the first 7a send 3 weeks ago

Better attempts at the end of the session, as I was able to lockoff my right arm and jump more in a straight line

I tried some new betas from the jug: going right hand to far shallow hold near the tree to then go left hand to the crimp, and the other one going directly to the crimp with right hand. My previous beta was using the pinch hold right hand and then getting the crimp. The method that I liked the most is going directly to the crimp. The downside is that you go blind to the hold, so it is easy to get it in a worse position, and also the left hand gets only the remaining space left out by the right hand. Over the session I did multiple attempts at figuring out the top out, like using the left hand limonete, going to the next right hand crimp, tried both feet on the jug, a shallow right hand pocket near the tree, the useless right hand sloper, and nothing worked.

Some attempts at the jump, not enough to reach the lip. I also checked out the top out and it will not be very easy, the holds aren't great

First 7a route sent! The second go was much easier after cleaning the herbs and some holds and going in the right sequence. This route is a classic of Reguengo - pretty high, 40 degree overhang and amazing jugs, and even some no hands kneebar rest.

First go to clip the draws and remove a lot of herbs that were on the route's jugs as the route probably has not been climbing since last winter. I also messed up the sequence and end up going to much to the right on the middle section.

One of the best slabs in Reguengo. Tried some moves of the route on top rope over one year ago. Now it felt easy on the first attempt.

Easy slab but quite fun. The foot holds just before the top hold are not so great which might throw some people off. The slab was quite dirty with moss so we had to clean it off.

Sit start on a very weird left hand hold, that looks like you are grabbing somebody's chin. I only managed to do the move once, and it was quite dynamic from the sit position. For me it felt like at least V6

I loved the look of this finger crack from the first time I saw it. It was a bit dirty since it probably has not been climbed for years. Overall I would say the grade is around V4

Climbed the first 3 draws as part of warm up (easy climbing on big holds). Then I tried to climb a bit more, did the moves for the next two draws but couldn't get past the one where you have both hands on ear like holds.

Amazing route! First part is easy but can get you pumped if not done perfectly since they are some big moves. After the 3rd draw the crux starts, the sequence for me was high left foot, cross left hand to pocket, switch feet and get a tiny right foot, and reach the ear like hold with the right hand, then raise right foot again to a small crack to bump the right hand to the hold right above which is a jug, and clip the draw there. Then there is another easier crux, going with left hand to a small and hidden but deep two finger pocket, and then a few more moves to reach the top. On my both attempts from the ground I feel on the left hand cross move.

Rainy day so not a lot of routes to choose from. Intense moves on bad holds. Good footholds though.

Second session, progress on the first two moves. Then the rain came.

Very cool slab movements on some big crystals and a good left edge

Top quality route, I had so much climbing it. It's a crack straight from the bottom all the way to the anchor. The first 5 meters the crack is quite thin and used it for fingers, then after the second bolt it starts to grow and you can do hand jams. The feet also get much better. Amazing route to practice jamming which is not very common. I cleaned the route with a iron brush, there was a lot of cobwebs in the crack and moss on the wall, the whole area probably needs to be cleaned every year after winter.

Amazing crack on a diedral. You can also climb just in opposition with the feet. Then you quickly reach the chimney that is the anchor now. There are two bolts above but the anchor itself is missing. The next moves to reach it didn't seem as easy as the rest of the route. It would be amazing if the crack would go on for more 20 meters.

Easy but some moves make this not a 3

Only did some of the moves in isolation: first one from undercling and crimp to the horrible slopper, the big move from the big edge to the side pull and the mantle. The crux will probably be the second move, from the undercling and the sloper, bringing a mad heel hook forward and going with the left hand to the crimp.

Did a couple attempts, my best link was from the start (right hand on undercling on the boulder base), right hand to the right, and adjust until you get close to the hold used for the right hand on the stand start version, then walk feet and do a left foot toe hook next to the next hand to get the pinch used for the stand start left hand. I couldn't then walk the feet again from this position as I was quite tired. From there on you are on the same position as the stand start.

Start with right foot toe hook which makes it easy to get the right hand on the sloper. Then the crux is to cut lose with the feet, and bring the left heel hook next to the left hand, on the edge. The trick for me was to get my body high and tension my back and shoulders in order to control the swing and not lose the the left hand sloper. I could do this move two times in maybe 20 attempts. Then after the heel hook the left hand bumps up on the edge until you feel a small feature but that feels amazing, right foot to the pinch where the left hand starts and right hand to the top edge, and then quite easy mantle up (just don't look down).

Hard to find the right feet to use. For the first move I used a right foot to the right on some wall texture, and left on a very small bulge down and to the left of the left crimp. After the first left hand move which took a few tries to get, I then adjusted and bumped the left hand to get a better pinch position on the undercling. Move the right foot high, under and left to the starting crimps and gain height in order to activate the left hand undercling, while moving the left foot high and far to the left, which enables the right hand match to the undercling. After readjusting the right foot I got the good holds and reached the lip jug, then to top out I moved my left hand far to the left on a small crimp, right foot next to the right hand on the jug, and that way is very easy to mantle up.

Nice route on the longer end, the first half is easy with only one or two tricky moves, then you get to rest before the roof section to finish. Some big holds to clip the last quickdraw, but the last moves before the anchor are the most demanding ones, I got quite pumped but found some sequence that worked.

Probably the best 6a route in the area, amazing holds and consistent engaging climbing from start to finish. Already gave it 5 stars when I reached the third bolt

Repeated it to set up a top rope and understand the crux beta better.

A more fun start than "Bailado ilegal" but shares the same crux, so both routes are pretty similar. This time I did the crux with a much better beta: right hand on the crack a raise the left hand to the small 2 finger hold then re adjust feet, especially the right one and with that reach the bigger crack hold near the next bolt.

The holds of start moves are great, then on the crux there are some technical moves on a traverse to the right, important to keep the body position balanced just right while holding the right edge.

Easy start then a cruxy sequence with a hand crack and some small holds.

The last moves to mantle to the top anchor are a bit exposed due to the potential swing

I had to get back on the route to retrieve my quickdraws after the last climber fell on the last quickdraw and failed to get back on the route. I chose to go on top rope since it's much easier and faster to get the bottom draws. Then when I reached the fifth draw, I added an additional one clipped to the belayer end of the rope, so that I was always climbing with at least two bolts clipped.

On the third attempt it was my best one so far, with the refined pocket beta and better foothold on the third draw, but then on the forth draw I messed up a bit and wasted a lot of energy. Still I was able to get the undercling and get to the fifth draw, and tried to rest on the hold that you clip the draw. Got some air but I was already close to the limit, I did a couple moves, got the good left hand before the slopers and tried to clip the last draw but I failed to clip and took a fall. After resting for a bit I reached the top.

Route to warm up after resting for lunch and the heat.

Second attempt I went more serious, but didn't the the foot position perfect in the first draws and ended up using a lot of energy, and fell going for the undercling hold. After resting for a bit, the moves to the top were fine. Then I worked on the crux sequence, I first tried doing the left shoulder move, right foot and right hand directly to the platform instead of using the pocket. Then I also tried the dynamic beta, jumping from the sloppy crimps to the platform. I chose to stick with the original beta of going static and using the pocket. Then I also worked on the moves after the third quickdraw. There are two pockets there, I was using the right one as a shoulder hold, but then I found the left smaller pocket much better since it also makes for a good body position for the next moves.

Coming back to this route after having the first session one month ago. First try was to remember the moves and holds. Crux sequence was easy to repeat.

Warm up route. Finally sent it, took 3 different attempts over one year.