Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Date | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
16 5c | ★★★ Diedro de Jim (Jims Dihedral) | 50m | Frey | ★★★ Classic | Tue 8th Mar 2005 | |||
2nd pitch harder than eternity, same type of diagonal classic crack
|
||||||||
16 17 | ★★ Blood, Sweat and Tears | 40m | Frog Buttress | ★★ Very Good | Sun 10th Jun 2018 | |||
Found this really fun and not thrutchy at all
|
||||||||
16 17 | ★★ The Second Affinity (Affinity) | 22m | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Wed 21st Oct 2015 | |||
What a great little route
|
||||||||
5.9 | ★★★ Golden Locks | 30m | Tennessee Wall | ★★★ Classic | Wed 1st Nov 2023 | |||
5.9 on MP and in guidebook that seems fair, hardest start of the day. Stellar route once above the slippery start
|
||||||||
16 | ★ Winston Alley | 10m | Frog Buttress | Average | Sun 3rd Aug 2008 | |||
why do I feel like Im going to fall on the 16s here?
|
||||||||
16 | ★ Horse-drawn Zeppelin | 12m | Frog Buttress | ★ Good | Sun 3rd Aug 2008 | |||
Good after the jamming bit
|
||||||||
16 | ★ Mainliner | 20m | Frog Buttress | ★ Good | Tue 4th Aug 2020 | |||
Something new to warm up on
|
||||||||
16 | ★ Castor | 22m | Frog Buttress | ★★ Very Good | Sat 9th Jun 2018 | |||
Got to love that chockstone, good warm up
|
||||||||
16 | ★★★ Satan's Smokestack | 40m | Frog Buttress | ★★ Very Good | Tue 3rd Jul 2018 | |||
While infinity was occupied decided to jump on this. Actually really pleasant, stayed out of chimney for first third with little gear, then slunk inside, but the 3 dimensional climbing was fun and not too thrutchy at all.
|
||||||||
16 | ★ Integrated Injection Logic | 15m | Frog Buttress | ★ Good | Sun 2nd Aug 2020 | |||
Heaps of good protection. Nice climb hidden away
|
||||||||
16 16 R | ★★ Marmot's Mall | 12m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Fri 11th Oct 2013 | |||
heaps of gear
|
||||||||
16 | ★ Chocolate Coated Parents | 12m | Joll's Bridge | Don't Bother | Sat 20th Dec 2003 | |||
historical interest only
|
||||||||
16 | ★★ Centurion (Centurian) | 10m | Point Perpendicular | ★ Good | Mon 3rd Jun 2013 | |||
Fun route
|
||||||||
16 | ★★ Before the Flood | 30m | Kaputar | ★★ Very Good | Mon 8th Jun 2020 | |||
Doesn’t look like much due to vegetation, but these don’t impact on climb. Deserves more traffic
|
||||||||
16 | ★★★ Ruby Of India - with David Gray | 210m | Mt Maroon | ★★★ Classic | Thu 30th Jul 2020 | |||
Led half the climb. A busy day, we were the middle of 3 parties so spent more time waiting than climbing. Should have got up earlier Nevertheless it was a really nice climb that exceeded expectations except for pitch 2. Continued to the true summit before walking down. The 2 pitons people have stressed about recently on p3 are both old and rusted And clearly been there for a long time.
|
||||||||
16 | ★ Tierry le Fronde Direct Start | 45m | Frenchmans Cap Area | ★ Good | Sat 20th Feb 2021 | |||
Better than the gully.
|
||||||||
16 | Evelyn's New Clothes | 12m | Arapiles | Don't Bother | Sat 15th Oct 2016 | |||
May be the first time I've dissed an araps route, didn't like it, rock terrible top 2/3.
|
||||||||
16 | ★ Stentor 3rd Pitch | 12m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Thu 15th Oct 2015 | |||
I feel nervous about the chicken heads, but they seem solid
|
||||||||
16 | ★★ Libretto | 50m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Thu 6th Nov 2014 | |||
Went up someline 2m to left of where I should've, with interesting steep moves to base of P2 which linked into one long pitch.
|
||||||||
16 | ★ Jason | 30m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Sat 1st May 2004 | |||
lower section fun
|
||||||||
16 | ★ Dylan | 15m | Arapiles | Average | Sun 8th May 2022 | |||
A little thrutchy, not too bad and something new to do
|
||||||||
16 | ★★ Arab | 110m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Mon 9th Mar 2020 | |||
Alt with Dave. Nice and airy. I had to hang pack from waist and lower out from toe hook to get to jug. Must have missed something, or maybe it’s just poor shoulder mobility.
|
||||||||
16 | ★★ Yo Yo | 90m | Arapiles | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 14th Dec 2007 | |||
Final route this trip due to rain. Great way to end. Did P1-3 as one, and then final pitch, with Gunter.
|
||||||||
16 | ★★ Menage a Trois | 23m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Sat 29th Sep 2018 | |||
My comfy shoes were skating all over the place. Time for a resole maybe
|
||||||||
16 | ★★ Coming on Chris | 25m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Sun 25th Nov 2012 | |||
Quite improbable position, good fun
|
||||||||
16 | ★★★ Watchtower Crack (The Watchtower Crack) | 95m, 3 | Arapiles | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 3rd May 2004 | |||
what a line, led all 4 pitches
|
||||||||
16 16 R | ★★ The Confession | 45m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Mon 3rd May 2004 | |||
slabfest
|
||||||||
16 | ★★ Nativity | 36m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Wed 18th May 2022 | |||
Got on the right route today. Quite nice. The low roof shared with Honeycomb feels stout for the grade
|
||||||||
16 | ★ Hum | 30m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Wed 21st Oct 2015 | |||
Not too bad
|
||||||||
16 | ★★ Decree Nisi | 25m | The Black Range | ★ Good | Thu 13th Oct 2016 | |||
Had finally dried out
|
||||||||
16 | ★★ Fat Wall Ordinaire Banana Blasé | 30m | Mount Buffalo | ★★★ Classic | Sun 24th Jan 2016 | |||
Much better than it looked, nice moves, small gear, no fat cracks as guidebook implies
|
||||||||
16 | ★★ Corner And Crack | 25m | Mount Buffalo | ★ Good | Mon 25th Feb 2019 | |||
Felt easier than the corner due to nice size jambs
|
||||||||
16 | ★ The Corner | 18m | Vaucluse | ★ Good | Fri 27th Nov 2009 | |||
I only had 3 cams.
|
||||||||
16 | ★★ Van | 44m | Blue Mountains | ★ Good | Tue 9th Dec 2014 | |||
One hard move, harder than anything on Turkish delight
|
||||||||
16 | ★ Can You Place It | 8m | Fingal Gym | Average | Sat 11th Feb 2006 | |||
one move wonder
|
||||||||
16 | ★ Belly Button | 29m | Bulahdelah | ★ Good | Sun 25th May 2008 | |||
Fun trad route
|
||||||||
16 | Not Lichen it | 40m | Bulahdelah | Average | Sat 1st Nov 2008 | |||
very old skool trad 2 pitches
|
||||||||
16 | ★★ Secret Swinger | 74m | Wolgan Valley | Average | Sun 20th Mar 2011 | |||
dirty but a way to the ledge I suppose. Combined P1 and 2 because cave looked awful. MB P3
|
||||||||
16 | ★★ Rohanda - with lous Blundell | 40m | Point Perpendicular | ★ Good | Wed 7th Jan 2015 | |||
Led in 2 pitches for some multipitch practice. Second pitch up arête is nice.
|
||||||||
16 | ★ Psychic Aberration | 35m | Point Perpendicular | Average | Sun 6th Mar 2016 | |||
Sandy and some nearby crap rock if you abseil too far
|
||||||||
16 | ★★ Man Overboard | 26m | Point Perpendicular | ★ Good | Sun 6th May 2007 | |||
Cruisy. An Arapilean 14!
|
||||||||
16 | ★ Caballero | 10m | Ebor Gorge | Average | Fri 20th Mar 2015 | |||
The gr de 16 offwidth feels harder than the 20s
|
||||||||
16 | Patient Scruff | 30m | Kaputar | Average | Sun 26th Feb 2006 | |||
not deserving of a star
|
||||||||
16 16 R | ★★ Clandestiny | 72m, 3 | Kaputar | ★ Good | Sat 17th Apr 2010 | |||
probably best as one long pitch
|
||||||||
16 | ★ Carezza | 38m | Orroral area | Average | Sat 22nd Apr 2006 | |||
the granite takes a little getting used to! Did this cos Possum was taken.
|
||||||||
16 | ★★ Thor Variant Start | 28m | Moonarie | ★ Good | Mon 7th Oct 2013 | |||
Quite fun, esp the improbable start
|
||||||||
16 | ★★★ Outside Chance | 50m | Moonarie | ★ Good | Mon 7th Oct 2013 | |||
First route at Moonarie linked with Buckleys
|
||||||||
16 | ★ Lassie Come Home | 12m | Freycinet National Park | ★ Good | Wed 26th Feb 2020 | |||
Probably fine, I just felt like I was going to slip off
|
||||||||
16 | ★★ Ice Nine | 35m | Freycinet National Park | ★ Good | Sat 31st Dec 2011 | |||
Linked both pitches. A bit tricky and ledgy in places
|
||||||||
16 | ★★ Japhlion | 250m | Freycinet National Park | ★★★ Classic | Mon 2nd Jan 2012 | |||
Great day out, though took us a while to find start.
|
||||||||
16 Hard | ★★ Stopping on the Red | 10m | Launceston (Cataract) Gorge | ★ Good | Wed 16th Nov 2022 | |||
Felt harder than route to left, may be body size related
|
||||||||
16 | ★ Feltham | 14m | Launceston (Cataract) Gorge | ★ Good | Sat 28th Dec 2013 | |||
Exit
|
||||||||
16 | ★ Professor Wigginsworth's Chunder Bucket | 20m, 3 | Barrenjoey | ★ Good | Mon 3rd Nov 2003 | |||
16 | ★ Abseil Wall | 18m | Barrenjoey | ★ Good | Sun 31st Jan 2010 | |||
quite OK gear despite the guidebook warning
|
||||||||
16 | ★★★ The Gates of Janus | 50m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sat 8th Jul 2006 | |||
take more medium cams
|
||||||||
16 | ★ Taurus | 21m | Blue Mountains | Average | Sun 28th Oct 2018 | |||
Only one move really, made insecure by the ferns
|
||||||||
16 | ★ Bing Bong | 20m | Watagans | ★ Good | Fri 22nd Jul 2016 | |||
Some slightly better rock
|
||||||||
16 | ★ Bacardi and Coke | 20m, 4 | Watagans | Average | Sun 3rd Nov 2013 | |||
Probably the first sports route in Aus, and you can enjoy the original carrots! Prob 17 in modern grades
|
||||||||
16 | ★★ Big Bananna | 20m, 1 | Watagans | ★ Good | Sun 28th Apr 2013 | |||
Did it from ground via Apple arete for a 25 m route. Finger crack good but short. Fortunately didnt see the snake just before anchors.....
|
||||||||
16 | Apocalypse Arete | 26m | Watagans | Average | Thu 14th May 2020 | |||
Small cams and wires in shallow seam in mid section
|
||||||||
16 | Puberty is Over | 5m, 1 | Watagans | Average | Wed 4th Aug 2004 | |||
not very inspiring
|
||||||||
16 | ★ Some Girls Do & Some Girls Don't | 8m, 1 | Watagans | ★★ Very Good | Wed 4th Aug 2004 | |||
more like 19 with hard move off a pebble
|
||||||||
16 | Napotiliano (Direct) | 9m, 1 | Watagans | Average | Sat 13th Jun 2015 | |||
Good moves around the bolt.
|
||||||||
16 | ★ Foot Loose and Fancy Tree | 27m | Watagans | ★ Good | Mon 2nd Oct 2017 | |||
Well worth doing, good hand crack and now with bonus anchors
|
||||||||
16 | ★ Blind Chook | 15m | Watagans | ★ Good | Sat 20th Aug 2016 | |||
Good providing it gets enough traffic to keep clean
|
||||||||
16 | ★ Stumbleine | 15m | The Slot | Average | Wed 3rd Nov 2004 | |||
kick the crabs out of the way at the belay
|
||||||||
16 | ★ Big Girls Blouse | 18m | The Slot | ★ Good | Wed 3rd Nov 2004 | |||
despite it being low tide and no swell still wet
|
||||||||
16 | Bones Brigade | 20m | Skate Park | Average | Sat 19th Jan 2008 | |||
rocks a bit suss. About 3m of good climbing
|
||||||||
16 | FA ★ Chiselhands | 12m | Tomaree Head | ★ Good | Sun 24th Feb 2008 | |||
Left of descent gully, interesting moves.
|
||||||||
16 | Direct staircase | 20m | Bulahdelah | Average | Sun 13th Dec 2009 | |||
maybe a few more bolts and go direct
|
||||||||
16 | ★★ The Gecko Groove | 28m | Kawakawa Bay | ★ Good | Thu 11th Oct 2018 | |||
Quite wide ie off width for me
|
||||||||
16 | Exit route | 60m | Fortescue Bay | Average | Thu 17th Feb 2011 | |||
Some ok bits between the ledges. Always fun with a pack....
|
||||||||
16 | ★ Kuwait (Wide trad crack) | 15m | Bulahdelah | ★ Good | Mon 9th Aug 2010 | |||
16 | The Wayne Pearce Experience | 8m | Wingello | Average | Tue 10th May 2011 | |||
Better than it looks
|
||||||||
16 | ★ The Number Of The Beast | 20m | Watagans | ★ Good | Sun 28th Jun 2020 | |||
Engaging and would probably get a star at Frog even. Never know how to grade offwidth. Didn’t have 3 6’s, rack was #2, 3x3’s, 2x4’s,2x5’s, 2x6’s, and a #9.
|
||||||||
16 | ★★ A Christmas Carol | 49m | Killiecrankie | ★★ Very Good | Thu 4th Mar 2021 | |||
Dave did pitch one and 3, I lead P2. First two pitches really good, borderline classic.
|
||||||||
16 | ★★ Absolutely Fabulous | 88m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Tue 11th Sep 2018 | |||
Nice pitch one. Dave went a bit more direct on pitch 2 to add a few grades
|
||||||||
16 | FA ★★ Flake | 15m | Kaputar | ★ Good | Fri 7th Dec 2018 | |||
A little easier than flake crack.
|
||||||||
16 | ★ Variant of Nubile Nymph | 15m, 2 | Sisters Beach | ★ Good | Mon 29th Mar 2021 | |||
Quite steep in spots
|
||||||||
5+ | ★★ Appelcake Arete | 60m | Lofoten | ★★ Very Good | Fri 18th Aug 2023 | |||
A bit too much rope drag to do as one long pitch, stopped about 9 m below top. Nice climb
|
||||||||
5+ | ★★ Lys og Skygge | 60m | Lofoten | ★★ Very Good | Fri 18th Aug 2023 | |||
Another nice route with convenient rap chains. These routes had been always packed this past week, so we took the opportunity when vacant to do them
|
||||||||
5+ | ★ Gallionsruta | 250m | Tromsø | Tue 1st Aug 2023 | ||||
Did this the evening we arrived, always good to suss out the descent route. Ended up “ scrambling” up too far and did first pitch of Varussen before getting onto route. 24 hour daylight is great.
|
||||||||
5.8 | ★★ Passages | 30m | Tennessee Wall | ★★★ Classic | Tue 31st Oct 2023 | |||
Really nice climbing and protects well
|
||||||||
5.8 | ★★ El Cracko Diablo | 82m | Devils Tower National Monument | ★★★ Classic | Sun 19th Jun 2005 | |||
Sustained! Led both with Andrew
|
||||||||
5.8 | ★★ Quarryman | 25m | Squamish | ★★ Very Good | Wed 30th Jul 2014 | |||
Pleasant arching crack
|
||||||||
5.8 | ★★★ Octopus' Garden in the Shade | 20m | Squamish | ★★ Very Good | Wed 7th Jun 2017 | |||
Survived the walk up on jelly legs, the climb seemed ok
|
||||||||
5.8 | ★ Call Any Vegetable | 20m | Squamish | ★ Good | Wed 7th Jun 2017 | |||
A #3 size crack, fortunately a slabby one
|
||||||||
5.8 | ★★★ Skyline | 45m | City of Rocks | ★★ Very Good | Mon 8th Sep 2014 | |||
Lovely exposed route
|
||||||||
5.8 | ★★ Phlegmish Dance | 15m | Squamish | ★ Good | Sat 2nd Aug 2014 | |||
Another nice crack, also very polished for granite
|
||||||||
5.8 | ★ Rosebud | 18m | Squamish | Average | Mon 12th Jun 2017 | |||
Working on weaknesses
|
||||||||
5.8 | ★ Jacob's Other Ladder | 27m | Squamish | ★ Good | Tue 13th Jun 2017 | |||
The exit after quagmire crack, not that good gear, climbs the dyke with 2 bolts
|
||||||||
5.8 | ★ Fred Rasmussen | 20m | City of Rocks | ★ Good | Sun 3rd Jul 2005 | |||
whoa- a mega sandbag
|
||||||||
5.8 | ★★ Rye Crisp | 40m | City of Rocks | ★★★ Classic | Thu 30th Jun 2005 | |||
first and last climb at the city- did it twice
|
||||||||
5.8 | ★★ Church Bowl Lieback | 37m | Yosemite National Park | ★ Good | Sat 25th Oct 2014 | |||
Calves had not recovered from half dome. Came to do bishops terrace but once again a queue
|
||||||||
5.8 | ★★ Chianti | Boulder | ★★ Very Good | Thu 9th Jun 2005 | ||||
hard start then sweet
|
||||||||
5.8 | ★★★ Ruper | 170m | Boulder | ★★ Very Good | Sat 27th Sep 2014 | |||
Did the 5.9 rover version. Quite a bit of nice climbing once we got to the start, which we did direct through choss. The descent abseil went better.alt with dave
|
||||||||
5.8 | ★★★ The Nutcracker Suite (Nutcracker) | 180m | Yosemite National Park | ★★★ Classic | Mon 20th Oct 2014 | |||
Alt with dave
|
||||||||
5.8 | ★★ Harry Daley | 70m | Yosemite National Park | ★ Good | Mon 20th Oct 2014 | |||
Led p 2. Nice though the scramble up was unexpected from our stupid topo guide
|
||||||||
16 15 | ★ Bozo | 12m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Sat 29th Nov 2003 | |||
short but sweet
|
||||||||
16 15 | ★★ Another Man's Juliet | 48m, 3 | Blue Mountains | ★ Good | Mon 6th Mar 2017 | |||
Nice steep orange section that was pretty slippery with dirt
|