Rating | Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Date | |||||||||||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
3396
points
| 7c+ |
★★★ Changing Plans Direktissima
![]() | 22m, 10 | Pha Tam Kam | ★★★ Classic | Wed 6th Mar 2024 | |||||||||||||
Three boulder problems into an exposed tufa escape! This line took work, and was a nice challenge for me. Hot conditions surely played a role in my perspective on the route's difficulty. The clip on the long runner at bolt 3 is a hassle, and I wish that there were a bolt there instead.
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|||||||||||||||||||
3393
points
| 7c+ |
★★★ Special Forces
![]() | 18m, 10 | Pha Tam Kam | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 25th Feb 2024 | |||||||||||||
Took me longer to send than anticipated; I fell repeatedly on the final deadpoint move. A glorious, aesthetic, comfortable line straight up the streak of white rock which first catches the eye when one enters the valley. Redpointed in the morning, with loads of stoke and a generous early belay.
|
|||||||||||||||||||
3378
points
| 5.13a Easy |
★★ 刀锋战士 Samurai
![]() | 26m, 11 | 阳朔 Yangshuo | ★★★ Classic | Mon 8th Jan 2024 | |||||||||||||
Pinches, pockets, and very cool moves. A friend gave beta for the technical crux, but it took major effort to unlock two meters of the rock higher up! My solution cranked a left hand two finger pocket, my weakest and most dreaded grip due to past injuries. This vicious pocket limited the number of attempts and rehearsals I could make, and scared the hell out of me on lead. I rested a bit left mid-route, but found the position very unnatural to avoid or ignore and thus feel fine with it. Wear a helmet; some loose rock.
|
|||||||||||||||||||
3374
points
| 5.13a |
★★ 物极必反 B.Cross
![]() | 25m, 10 | 阳朔 Yangshuo | ★★★ Classic | Mon 25th Dec 2023 | |||||||||||||
So technical! Fingers, footwork, balance and positioning all play their part. I used an extended draw on the janky final bolt, and downclimbed to mitigate fierce rope drag by unclipping the two bolts above the ledge. I was stuck falling on the final crimpy moves for quite some time, steadily losing skin. Good rest and recovery, slight optimizations, beta advice from a friend, and a mega supportive belayer made the send!
|
|||||||||||||||||||
3370
points
| 5.13a |
★★ 箭头 Arrow
![]() | 25m, 13 | 阳朔 Yangshuo | ★★★ Classic | Wed 13th Dec 2023 | |||||||||||||
Fingery, then powerful and pumpy as the cliff steepens. The face into the diagonal crack offers a sustained, technical sequence on crimps and pockets: a glorious set of hard moves.
|
|||||||||||||||||||
3271
points
| 7c Easy |
★★★ Changing Plans
![]() | 22m, 9 | Pha Tam Kam | ★★★ Classic | Sun 3rd Mar 2024 | |||||||||||||
At least a grade easier than the direct variant; I still felt fresh after traversing in. The final boulder problem, into the tufa, remains wonderfully technical on superb crimps.
|
|||||||||||||||||||
3258
points
| 7c Easy |
★★ Tetris
![]() | 5 | Chong Phli - Spirit Mountain | ★★★ Classic | Sun 21st Jan 2024 | |||||||||||||
Short extension, just a pair of hard slab boulder problems on a rope, but I really loved solving and climbing this! I climbed by extending ‘Buzzsaw’. I first sent this problem starting from the ‘Buzzsaw’ anchor, but it didn’t feel right doing it that way. I am happy to have spent more time on it, and feel great redpointing it from the ground!
|
|||||||||||||||||||
3191
points
| 7a+ ~7a |
★★★ True Manhood
![]() | 34m, 16 | Pha Tam Kam | ★★ Very Good | Sun 17th Mar 2024 | |||||||||||||
This line is disappointingly soft for the grade, although there is surely some contrived beta which makes it a 7a+. The left side of this crag, the white face, doesn’t get nearly as much traffic as it deserves.
|
|||||||||||||||||||
3187
points
| 7c ~7c |
★★ Flight of the Bumble Bee
![]() | 28m, 13 | Cat Ba Island | ★★★ Classic | Tue 30th May 2023 | |||||||||||||
“Some argue these last moves are 7c” - count me amongst them. Remains listed at 7c in the 2023 guidebook, and goes as hard as most 5.12d / 7c that I’ve climbed. Right hand ring finger split deep and bled profusely, but I managed to redpoint with a taped tip.
|
|||||||||||||||||||
3176
points
| 7a+ Hard |
★★★ Dogs Run Free
![]() | 22m, 13 | The North Wall | ★★★ Classic | Thu 25th Jan 2024 | |||||||||||||
Not my preferred style, felt quite hard in the crux. A short section has non-trivial ledge exposure, one heady clip. I found a bad rest slightly to the side, but I think it’s on route.
|
|||||||||||||||||||
3175
points
| 7a+ |
★★ Soulshine
![]() | 15m, 8 | Chong Phli - Spirit Mountain | ★★★ Classic | Wed 24th Jan 2024 | |||||||||||||
Jamming my fingers saved me from sweating right out of the crux. A little heady clipping above the ledge. Super stoked to onsight this route; I tried hard and committed fully to my read.
|
|||||||||||||||||||
3173
points
| 5.12d |
★★★ 妖缝
![]() | 13m, 8 | 白岩下 Baiyanxia | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 13th Apr 2023 | |||||||||||||
Short but intense, a case study in power endurance and efficient execution. Crimps, pinches, underclings, a deadpoint, an obligatory two-finger pocket, a heel hook, a kneebar, and amazingly good friction; the movement and holds are consistently varied and indelible. The line even stays dry in moderate rain! Banger.
|
|||||||||||||||||||
3166
points
| 5.12d ~5.12d |
★★ 比基尼小姐
![]() | 22m, 10 | 枣庄 Zao Zhuang | ★★★ Classic | Sun 19th Mar 2023 | |||||||||||||
Excellent orange and grey limestone throughout. The lower route is well interspersed with rest, but as you move higher the action gets hotter. Sublime face climbing at the top offers a variety of crimps, small pinches, and delicate footwork - one key move is also harder for the tall! Graded 13a on the topo, but subjectively felt like 12+ to me.
|
|||||||||||||||||||
3152
points
| 5.12d ~5.12d |
★ 梦想
![]() | 22m, 9 | 清远英西 YingXi | ★★★ Classic | Wed 1st Feb 2023 | |||||||||||||
Interesting balance moves in the first half, and an awesome, exposed, fingery ceiling flip above the rest ledge. Graded 5.13a on old and new topos. To me, it felt like it could be a 5.12+. I should note that techy face cruxes are my preferred style and strength, that I am tall, and that I worked the route while on a multi-week stint of constant climbing on similar limestone. Whatever the grade, it remains that 梦想 offers beautiful features and superb flow.
|
|||||||||||||||||||
Supporting theCrag is not only good for your Karma
it also gives you access to great benefits on theCrag and beyond. | |||||||||||||||||||
3150
points
| 5.12d |
★★★ 好久不见
![]() | 28m, 14 | 清远英西 YingXi | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 25th Jan 2023 | |||||||||||||
A proud line starting high off the ground atop a huge boulder, ascending an exceptionally high quality yellow limestone face. Subjectively, this route presented the hardest sustained sequence that I have climbed to date. No individual move is nails hard, nor harder than other crux moves I have climbed around this grade; brutality lies in the sheer intensity of linking everything. I repeatedly climbed clean as far as the final, cranking balance move of my beta - only to peel off, again and again. A last minute beta change sealed the deal, and closed this mentally intense project.
|
|||||||||||||||||||
3138
points
| 7b+ ~7a+ |
★★ Potatohead
![]() | 10m, 4 | Pha Tam Kam | ★★ Very Good | Fri 9th Feb 2024 | |||||||||||||
Had a lot of fun solving the boulder problem, but the send felt much easier than graded.
|
|||||||||||||||||||
3135
points
| 7a+ Easy |
★★★ 阿要辣油
![]() | 14m, 7 | 南京 | ★★★ Classic | Sun 2nd Jun 2024 | |||||||||||||
Thanks to LuoYe for crux beta. Happy to climb the boulder crux smoothly! However, between final bolt and anchor I was drawn in by a good hold, and compelled to messily climb the left face. A few moves were fairly left of the final bolt, close to the next route - but in reflection looking at the line, I feel OK with this. With no clipping hold for the anchor I reached the literal top of the mountain, where the white limestone crown is weathered slippery smooth. The anchor was right beside me at knee height, but so difficult and sketchy to clip! On the way down I tried the obvious alternative finish, and found it much easier. Go figure!
|
|||||||||||||||||||
3132
points
| 5.12d |
★★ Heavy Flavour
![]() | 17m, 8 | 临安狮头岩 Lion's Head | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 27th Nov 2022 | |||||||||||||
Highly aesthetic line, both visually and kinaesthetically. The sequence above the ledge demands a relentless flow of movement, climbing what feel like fractal variations of the same crimpy boulder problem right up to the committing crux deadpoint. Sharp crimps, pinches, finger locks, delicate footwork, and enough overhang to feel powerful and intense. A work of art hewn in stone.
|
|||||||||||||||||||
3115
points
| 5.12c |
★★ 月亮 Moon
![]() | 25m, 8 | 阳朔 Yangshuo | ★★★ Classic | Sat 25th Nov 2023 | |||||||||||||
Superb technical climbing on slippery feet, crimps, and open hands. I majorly struggled making the anchor clip, and almost whipped with the rope in my hand!
|
|||||||||||||||||||
3113
points
| 7a+ |
★★ Schwing dei Ding
![]() | 20m | Pha Tam Kam | ★★★ Classic | Thu 21st Mar 2024 | |||||||||||||
Peculiar, unique crux. Creativity and three dimensional thinking were needed, even with flash beta from friends.
|
|||||||||||||||||||
3101
points
| 5.12d |
★★ 武探花 Kongfu No. 3
![]() | 13m, 5 | 昆明 Kunming | ★★★ Classic | Thu 18th Aug 2022 | |||||||||||||
Hand-to-hand combat from bolt one to bolt four. Footwork delicate to the point that I needed stiff shoes to pull any moves - and I still lost an edge, but managed to hold on, during my send. I found two viable options for the second crux; execute a ‘three finger death punch’, or ‘be like water’. Short, but not just a single crux route!
|
|||||||||||||||||||
3096
points
| 7a+ |
★★★ Superstition
![]() | 15m, 8 | Chong Phli - Spirit Mountain | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 26th Jan 2024 | |||||||||||||
I benefited enormously from the detailed beta of several friends. Every hold and movement was as I anticipated from the ground, and I climbed through the crux statically. I really enjoyed how the climbing transitions from slabby to steeper.
|
|||||||||||||||||||
3048
points
| 7a |
★★ Tied Up
![]() | 12 | Pha Tam Kam | ★★★ Classic | Sun 17th Mar 2024 | |||||||||||||
I’d had my eye on this route for some time, and finally went for it today. I read the problem flawlessly from the ground; everything that I envisioned and planned actualized into smooth movement.
|
|||||||||||||||||||
3047
points
| 7a |
★★★ Sintersizer
![]() | 20m, 9 | Pha Tam Kam | ★★★ Classic | Sat 16th Mar 2024 | |||||||||||||
Nicely varied holds: tufa, pockets, jugs, and a couple of positive pinches. Heat and humidity made the route feel quite intense at the top.
|
|||||||||||||||||||
3046
points
| 5.12b |
★★ 三好学生
![]() | 12m, 5 | 昆明 Kunming | ★★ Very Good | Fri 24th May 2024 | |||||||||||||
Hard, finger intensive boulder problem. Happy that my right hand could handle this one today.
|
|||||||||||||||||||
3045
points
| 7a |
★★★ Stalker
![]() | 28m, 10 | Pha Tam Kam | ★★★ Classic | Fri 8th Mar 2024 | |||||||||||||
Super cool little cave mid route. Steep jug haul the entire way, loads of fun.
|
|||||||||||||||||||
3037
points
| 5.12c Easy |
★★ VIP
![]() | 18m, 8 | 枣庄 Zao Zhuang | ★★★ Classic | Sun 12th Mar 2023 | |||||||||||||
The brief but sustained crux is headlined by a memorably bomber finger pocket. Looks long from the ground, feels short when climbed.
|
|||||||||||||||||||
3002
points
| 5.11c Hard |
★★★ 大象席地而坐
![]() | 10 | 南宁 Nanning | ★★★ Classic | Tue 31st Dec 2024 | |||||||||||||
Brutal. Full body engagement.
|
|||||||||||||||||||
3034
points
| 5.12b |
★★ Get Shorty
![]() | 17m, 6 | 昆明 Kunming | ★★ Very Good | Tue 16th Apr 2024 | |||||||||||||
Technical climbing on sparse bolting. Worthwhile! My first climb above 5.12a since finger injuries five weeks prior.
|
|||||||||||||||||||
3031
points
| 7a Easy |
★★ Cyber Punks
![]() | 15m, 7 | The North Wall | ★★★ Classic | Sun 21st Jan 2024 | |||||||||||||
Pumped at the top, so I skipped the final clip and went for it!
|
|||||||||||||||||||
3014
points
| 7b Hard |
★★ Boulder Dash
![]() | 36m, 21 | Pha Tam Kam | ★ Good | Thu 8th Feb 2024 | |||||||||||||
Manufactured holds through the bottom boulder problem hurt the route’s quality, for me. I skipped the traverse quickdraw on redpoint, and whipped safely there on one attempt. I had trouble getting this one done, maybe due to inefficient beta or the style; it took significantly more work than Ghosts ‘n Goblins beside it.
|
|||||||||||||||||||
3013
points
| 7b |
★★★ Ghosts 'n Goblins
![]() | 36m, 21 | Pha Tam Kam | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 4th Feb 2024 | |||||||||||||
Stellar, a truly fantastic line and style. Wonderfully long!
|
|||||||||||||||||||
3012
points
| 7b Easy |
★★ The Cure
![]() | 21m, 10 | Pha Tam Kam | ★★ Very Good | Thu 1st Feb 2024 | |||||||||||||
Technical start. I broke off a large jug and a foothold on my redpoint, somehow didn’t fall, and finished with blood streaming down my hand - dramatic!
|
|||||||||||||||||||
3011
points
| 7b Easy |
★★ Go Bananas
![]() | 17m, 9 | Pha Tam Kam | ★★★ Classic | Mon 29th Jan 2024 | |||||||||||||
Technical boulder on nice crimps. Sharp on the skin.
|
|||||||||||||||||||
3009
points
| 7b ~7a+ |
★★ Trippin'
![]() | 20m, 9 | Chong Phli - Spirit Mountain | ★★ Very Good | Mon 22nd Jan 2024 | |||||||||||||
Good crimps, delicate footwork, one heady clip.
|
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2991
points
| 5.12b Easy |
★★ Life Buoy
![]() | 16m, 7 | 阳朔 Yangshuo | ★★ Very Good | Thu 23rd Nov 2023 | |||||||||||||
Unique movement and careful body positioning throughout. Short and pumpy, tough on skin.
|
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2987
points
| 5.12c |
★★ Sumo Wrestler
![]() | 13m, 6 | 临安狮头岩 Lion's Head | ★★★ Classic | Mon 26th Sep 2022 | |||||||||||||
Fantastic friction throughout a particularly technical crux sequence. The crimps and pinches are sharply textured, and each serious attempt cost me a layer of skin. My right index finger split and bled during the redpoint; if the moves hadn’t gone I wouldn’t have gotten another try.
|
|||||||||||||||||||
2984
points
| 5.12b |
★ The Wiggle
![]() | 22m, 10 | 阳朔 Yangshuo | ★★ Very Good | Tue 31st Oct 2023 | |||||||||||||
Oddly named route; there was no wiggle. Just brute force and an aggressive three finger drag midway through the boulder. Pretty cool sequence.
|
|||||||||||||||||||
2983
points
| 5.12b Easy |
★★ 蜻蛉 Damselfly
![]() | 27m, 11 | 阳朔 Yangshuo | ★★ Very Good | Mon 30th Oct 2023 | |||||||||||||
Boulder problem starting on the big ledge above Dragonfly. Overhung, but totally a slab footwork crux! Missing first hanger above the ledge. The runout fall looks safe, but I placed a long runner on the second bolt in order to protect the first few moves from the ledge.
|
|||||||||||||||||||
2983
points
| 5.12b ~5.12c |
★★ Mr Greenwood
![]() | 21m, 7 | 阳朔 Yangshuo | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 30th Oct 2023 | |||||||||||||
I climbed direct, and didn’t use any of the big holds off to the right on the 5.10a’s bolt line. By far the hardest 5.12b I have climbed to date. Totally my style, still felt at least a grade stiff. Fantastic climbing, thin and technical throughout, intense on fingers. A proud send for me - for the line, not for the grade!
|
|||||||||||||||||||
2975
points
| 7b |
★★ Quarks
![]() | 13m, 3 | Railay | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 3rd Oct 2023 | |||||||||||||
Tight crimps, committing crux footholds. Delighted to send as a one day project whilst still weak and underweight from high altitude.
|
|||||||||||||||||||
2973
points
| 7a Easy |
★★★ Si (Four) 四
![]() | 27m, 9 | 安顺市 | ★★★ Classic | Thu 4th Apr 2024 | |||||||||||||
What a striking line! Follows a lovely crack the entire way up, cleaving the karst in half. Good holds and good rests the entire way.
|
|||||||||||||||||||
2972
points
| 5.11c ~5.11b |
★★ 乞力马扎罗
![]() | 12m, 5 | 南京 | ★★ Very Good | Sun 2nd Jun 2024 | |||||||||||||
Jamming helped me with this route. The cracks are sharp, so a bit of pain is obligatory. Single crux for the grade, possibly soft?
|
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2972
points
| 5.12c |
★ 观景台 / Observation Deck
![]() | 30m, 13 | 六盘水 Liupanshui | ★★ Very Good | Mon 8th Aug 2022 | |||||||||||||
All about the final two bolts and the anchor. Thin hands, thinner feet, an intense crimp sequence. Big rests make the lower route a breeze. On one redpoint attempt I took a big whip, falling with the rope in my hand whilst attempting to clip the chains.
|
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2970
points
| 5.12c |
★★ 小酒馆
![]() | 25m, 13 | 六盘水 Liupanshui | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 1st Aug 2022 | |||||||||||||
Thin limestone slab with two footwork cruxes concludes underneath the main event, a burly ceiling flip on marginal hands. Pulling over the roof presents the major crux, as it should be.
|
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2970
points
| 5.11c ~5.11a |
★★ 两个锤子
![]() | 12m, 5 | 昆明 Kunming | ★★ Very Good | Fri 24th May 2024 | |||||||||||||
Has perhaps gotten easier due to broken rock? Feels like a 5.11- to me.
|
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2967
points
| 5.11d |
★★★ Ssss
![]() | 16m, 9 | 阳朔 Yangshuo | ★★★ Classic | Wed 13th Dec 2023 | |||||||||||||
I managed to flash on pre-hung draws with excellent, detailed beta from a friend. Climbing flash with super strong support is very fun!
|
|||||||||||||||||||
2963
points
| 7a |
★★ Cheeky Fucker
![]() | 22m | Pha Tam Kam | ★★★ Classic | Sat 2nd Mar 2024 | |||||||||||||
Awesome horizontal climbing, pumpy and three dimensional.
|
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2962
points
| 7a |
★★★ Schwitzerland
![]() | 19m, 8 | Pha Tam Kam | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 28th Feb 2024 | |||||||||||||
The most climbed 7a in Laos for a reason - a wonderful route. Flashed on supremely detailed beta.
|
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2961
points
| 7a Easy |
★★ Sound of Music
![]() | 20m, 10 | Pha Tam Kam | ★★★ Classic | Sun 25th Feb 2024 | |||||||||||||
Delightful to climb with thorough beta from a friend. Excellent holds and moves.
|
|||||||||||||||||||
2946
points
| 5.11d |
★★ 爱人大动作 Small Man, Big Move
![]() | 25m, 11 | 阳朔 Yangshuo | ★★★ Classic | Fri 13th Jan 2023 | |||||||||||||
Started up this route on a whim at the end of the day, a stranger’s Petzl Spirits already placed and perfectly extended. I thrashed a bit through the ceiling, pumped but fighting hard, focused on staying static and working high feet. The route is graded 11c in the guidebook but 11d here, and I’m not sure where I stand on the matter given my somewhat desperate onsight. The overhang is both powerful and committing, and without extended draws in it would have been even harder.
|
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2944
points
| 5.12b Easy |
★ 聪明的人类
![]() | 14m, 5 | 枣庄 Zao Zhuang | ★★ Very Good | Thu 22nd Jun 2023 | |||||||||||||
Short route, technical and very crimpy. I solved the crux by going direct, but many prefer to climb to the right.
|
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2944
points
| 5.11d |
★★★ 长城 The Great Wall
![]() | 25m, 10 | 阳朔 Yangshuo | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 5th Jan 2023 | |||||||||||||
A good position just before the crux enabled me to carefully scope the holds, and fully commit to my execution. I almost lost it right below the anchor, too pumped for the final easy move, but was able to sort out a decent resting stance and get enough back to pull through. Onsighted while hanging my draws.
|
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2936
points
| 7b Easy |
★★★ License To Climb
![]() | 25m, 13 | Vịnh Lan Hạ | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 25th May 2023 | |||||||||||||
What an adventure. Left harbor at 5:30 am. Torrential rain in the early morning. Onsight burn was a lost cause. First three bolts were slick and a few key footholds, all the jugs, and most pinches were damp. Moisture and blind moves made hard climbing; I reached bolt 9. Fortune turned with wind, drying the rock, but the climb remained intensely hot and humid.
On redpoint my right arm locked at the elbow, heat cramp, and I was just barely able to shake it back to execute the upper sequence - glorious! The rock is rare limestone flowstone, a golden line of melted candlewax threaded between crispy, blackened drainage streaks. Good conditions must be tricky; committing access and a unique environment. I must say that subjective grade is surely condition dependent. |
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2925
points
| 5.11d |
★★★ 硬腿子
![]() | 10m, 5 | 南京 | ★★★ Classic | Sun 6th Nov 2022 | |||||||||||||
Sharp friction and good climbing on a unique quartz/conglomerate mix. Fingery holds on this one. Managed to successfully problem solve whilst in motion, and pull off an onsight while hanging my gear.
|
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2924
points
| 5.11c ~5.11b |
★★ 小朋友 Little Homie
![]() | 24m, 8 | 阳朔 Yangshuo | ★★ Very Good | Mon 25th Dec 2023 | |||||||||||||
Not sure where the elimination holds are supposed to be, but I probably used them. Felt like 5.11- to me; some moves were definitely harder than 5.10+. Personally, I don’t think eliminations belong on a sport route.
|
|||||||||||||||||||
2919
points
| 5.12a |
★★ Trapennzi
![]() | 13m, 4 | 昆明 Kunming | ★★★ Classic | Tue 21st May 2024 | |||||||||||||
Very fingery, two boulder problems. Being able to even climb this is a great measure of how far my finger injuries have improved.
|
|||||||||||||||||||
2917
points
| 5.12c |
★★★ Orangina
![]() | 21m | 清远英西 YingXi | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 5th Feb 2022 | |||||||||||||
A highly aesthetic line directly up the middle of the cliff face, ascending picturesque white-grey mottled rock. Strenuous on fingers, body tension, and smeared footwork. I really had to reach; definitely harder for shorter climbers. The final bolt felt a bit sketchy to clip.
|
|||||||||||||||||||
2915
points
| 5.11c |
★★ Surprise Attack
![]() | 17m, 8 | 阳朔 Yangshuo | ★★★ Classic | Sun 26th Nov 2023 | |||||||||||||
High quality features up an overhung corner. Not nearly as sharp as it looks from the ground, and climbs very well in spite of a little bit of cave dust. Pumpy!
|
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2915
points
| 5.12c |
★★ 太岁传奇 Jupiter Legend
![]() | 22m, 12 | 清远英西 YingXi | ★★★ Classic | Sun 30th Jan 2022 | |||||||||||||
Long, slabby face route with a complex upper crux section. Heady penultimate clip on slippery smeared feet. I skipped the last draw on my send, as this made clipping the anchor feel more reasonable.
|
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2913
points
| 5.12b Easy |
★★★ 飘
![]() | 15m, 8 | 枣庄 Zao Zhuang | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 12th Mar 2023 | |||||||||||||
I felt my full body engaged while levering through the awesome movement on this classic line. Save some chicken for the finish! Absolute banger.
|
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2912
points
| 5.11c/d |
★★ 白壁1
![]() | 17m, 9 | 清远英西 YingXi | ★★ Very Good | Wed 1st Feb 2023 | |||||||||||||
Quite overhung, mostly on good holds. This route is a real pumper. I onsighted while hanging my draws.
|
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2912
points
| 5.12a/b ~5.12b |
★★ Raven
![]() | Bruce Peninsula | ★★★ Classic | Sun 16th Jul 2023 | ||||||||||||||
Very aesthetic rock and movement throughout. The crux puzzle was highly rewarding to unlock, and to execute! Felt like a 12b to me.
|
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2907
points
| 5.11c Easy |
★★ Bad Egg
![]() | 25m, 10 | 阳朔 Yangshuo | ★★★ Classic | Tue 31st Oct 2023 | |||||||||||||
Sequential and crimpy, same style and quality as the routes alongside it. Great cruxes!
|
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2907
points
| 5.11c |
★ Hustler's Roof
![]() | 22m, 9 | 阳朔 Yangshuo | ★★ Very Good | Mon 30th Oct 2023 | |||||||||||||
I really had to fight through the boulder problem crux; the solution I found was particularly fierce.
|
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2905
points
| 7b |
★★ The Tiger Queen
![]() | 12m, 4 | Ton Sai | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 12th Feb 2023 | |||||||||||||
The Tiger Queen taught me several lessons; not to climb the day after a sleepless night of dysentery, that early morning conditions on the beach are phenomenal, that wardrobe adjustments help with heat management. Mega line, amazing flow.
|
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2903
points
| 6c+ |
★★ Schnapsnase
![]() | 16m, 10 | Pha Tam Kam | ★★ Very Good | Thu 21st Mar 2024 | |||||||||||||
Climbs much better than it looks from below, a nice line. Pumpy.
|
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2901
points
| 6c+ |
★★★ Scotch On The Rocks
![]() | 30m, 15 | Pha Tam Kam | ★★★ Classic | Fri 15th Mar 2024 | |||||||||||||
Nice climbing through the white rock, pumpy finish. Miserable to clean.
|
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2900
points
| 6c+ Hard |
★★ Chromosomenchaos
![]() | 19m, 9 | Pha Tam Kam | ★★ Very Good | Wed 13th Mar 2024 | |||||||||||||
Pumpy! Be very careful with the patch of brown choss near the beginning of the route.
|
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2900
points
| 5.11d |
★★★ 那条顶上有黑蛇的线
![]() | 24m, 10 | 六盘水 Liupanshui | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 12th Aug 2022 | |||||||||||||
The home of an infamous black python who inexplicably lives at the anchor, in a hole 25m off of the ground. A confluence of finger strength, focus, slab trickery and general tenacity got me past the genuinely challenging slab cruxes, most notably a tensely brutal two finger pocket pull onto high, slippery feet. The upper route presented one anxious crux for me, traversing onto a bad foot smear. Conducted in good style whilst hanging my draws. The python wasn't home.
|
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2899
points
| 6c+ |
★★★ Pulverizer
![]() | 27m, 11 | Pha Tam Kam | ★★★ Classic | Sun 10th Mar 2024 | |||||||||||||
The white rock is lovely to climb, pocketed and smooth on the hands. Be careful with the ledges.
|
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2897
points
| 5.12b |
★★ 焚心似火
![]() | 22m, 10 | 清远英西 YingXi | ★★ Very Good | Tue 17th Jan 2023 | |||||||||||||
Very aesthetic route, viewed from the ground. The crux was awkward and hard, cranking out a traverse on a sharp pinch. My solution was reachy, and made use of a key right foothold in the little ceiling.
|
|||||||||||||||||||
2896
points
| 6c+ Hard |
★★★ Mr. Ku
![]() | 30m, 14 | Pha Tam Kam | ★★★ Classic | Tue 27th Feb 2024 | |||||||||||||
Superb line, climbs very well the entire way. Long and enjoyable!
|
|||||||||||||||||||
2894
points
| 5.12b |
★★★ Three Levels of Shut the Fuck Up
![]() | 14m, 8 | 阳朔 Yangshuo | ★★★ Classic | Sat 7th Jan 2023 | |||||||||||||
Short but quite fierce, with no real easy sections nor any particularly great holds. Sharp in places, some crumbly rock, dusty - yet taken all together it has good character.
|
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2892
points
| 5.12b |
★★★ 愤怒的小鸟 Angry Bird
![]() | 25m, 13 | 阳朔 Yangshuo | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 1st Jan 2023 | |||||||||||||
Interesting crux movements, superb friction, and plenty of hold variation make for an awesome route. Climbing shirtless in January sunshine was wonderful.
|
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2891
points
| 6c+ |
★★★ Unbreakable
![]() | 41m, 18 | Pha Tam Kam | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 11th Feb 2024 | |||||||||||||
Wonderfully varied the entire way. There’s a bit of everything, and all high quality.
|
|||||||||||||||||||
2889
points
| 7a+ Hard |
★★ Ui ui ui Tiffy
![]() | 28m, 10 | Pha Tam Kam | ★★ Very Good | Fri 8th Mar 2024 | |||||||||||||
Intense crux, an engaging problem.
|
|||||||||||||||||||
2887
points
| 6c+ Hard |
★★ Badami Deluxe
![]() | 22m, 8 | Pha Tam Kam | ★★★ Classic | Tue 30th Jan 2024 | |||||||||||||
Steeper than it looks from the ground. Nice technical section.
|
|||||||||||||||||||
2885
points
| 6c+ Easy |
★★ Smoked Out
![]() | 25m, 8 | Chong Phli - Spirit Mountain | ★★ Very Good | Wed 24th Jan 2024 | |||||||||||||
Cool crux on twin tufa, but very dirty. Would be nice if cleaned up; I brushed it a bit for the next climber.
|
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2885
points
| 6c+ Hard |
★★★ Hunting Shrooms
![]() | 24m, 10 | Chong Phli - Spirit Mountain | ★★★ Classic | Mon 22nd Jan 2024 | |||||||||||||
Excellent slab problems, but neither as sustained nor as interesting as ‘Grace’ beside it.
|
|||||||||||||||||||
2884
points
| 6c+ |
★★★ Doctor Zeus
![]() | 7 | Chong Phli - Spirit Mountain | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 18th Jan 2024 | |||||||||||||
Sustained, top quality limestone slab climbing. Technical and thoughtful the entire way.
|
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2882
points
| 5.11b/c Hard |
★★ 马叔叔的电影票
![]() | 28m, 12 | 南宁 Nanning | ★★★ Classic | Sun 31st Dec 2023 | |||||||||||||
Comfortable climbing into a very nice technical crux.
|
|||||||||||||||||||
2879
points
| 5.12a Easy |
★★★ 大血泡 Big Blister
![]() | 25m, 14 | 阳朔 Yangshuo | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 9th Jan 2024 | |||||||||||||
Superb technical climbing, very high quality rock!
|
|||||||||||||||||||
2878
points
| 7a+ Hard |
★★ Sabbatical
![]() | 18m, 9 | Pha Tam Kam | ★★★ Classic | Fri 2nd Feb 2024 | |||||||||||||
Tough crux. We pulled off a three-person send train!
|
|||||||||||||||||||
2865
points
| 5.12b |
★ Jet Li
![]() | 17m, 11 | 临安狮头岩 Lion's Head | ★★ Very Good | Tue 4th Oct 2022 | |||||||||||||
Defined by its physically demanding crux, the final four meters to the rings. Violence is, in fact, the solution. I skipped clipping the final bolt on my redpoint. Great but more moderate climbing throughout the lower route, and a good rest immediately below the crux sequence.
|
|||||||||||||||||||
2865
points
| 5.12b |
★★ Route Makers, Heart Breakers
![]() | 22m, 13 | 临安狮头岩 Lion's Head | ★★★ Classic | Sat 1st Oct 2022 | |||||||||||||
The high, thin crux sequence presents quite an interesting puzzle to solve, with an unusually wide selection of sharp crimps to choose from.
|
|||||||||||||||||||
2856
points
| 5.11c Easy |
★★ 肉塞
![]() | 30m, 15 | 两头洞 U Cave | ★★★ Classic | Sun 14th May 2023 | |||||||||||||
Long but interspersed with rest, perhaps with multiple crux sections - depending on one’s route finding skill in dim light. Balance climbing with many lock offs and blind holds - high feet and confidence are rewarded! Last climb of the weekend, sapping everything I had left in my injured big toe. Soft for the grade, could be a stiff 11b or a soft 11c.
|
|||||||||||||||||||
2856
points
| 5.12b |
★★★ 六六大顺
![]() | 15m, 6 | 枣庄 Zao Zhuang | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 3rd Sep 2022 | |||||||||||||
There is ground fall potential at bolt two, and while clipping bolt three. On my first attempt I took an unfortunate fall on the finger pocket, slightly injuring my left middle finger. This route devours finger endurance, but the redpoint crux is in managing slippery feet! Stiff, in my opinion.
|
|||||||||||||||||||
2854
points
| 5.11b Hard |
★ Ten Pound Lunker Bass
![]() | 6 | Halton Region | ★★★ Classic | Fri 21st Jun 2024 | |||||||||||||
Felt hard for the grade - but it was also quite damp, and I also read it poorly from the ground.
|
|||||||||||||||||||
2850
points
| 5.12b 5.12c |
★★ 鸡尾冰摇 Cocktail shake
![]() | 20m | 昆明 Kunming | ★★ Very Good | Sun 14th Aug 2022 | |||||||||||||
Glossy feet and tight crimps, but only for a couple of moves. The section immediately after the crux is cool, and climbs elegantly.
|
|||||||||||||||||||
2849
points
| 5.11d Easy |
★★ Blood Moon
![]() | 15m, 10 | The North Wall | ★★ Very Good | Thu 16th Feb 2023 | |||||||||||||
Powerful ceiling flip. With good beta I was able to execute exactly what I envisioned from the ground, albeit with a bit of intensity. Absolutely not my style of climb; perhaps a bit soft?
|
|||||||||||||||||||
2849
points
| 5.12b |
★★ Office Work
![]() | 15m, 7 | 六盘水 Liupanshui | ★★★ Classic | Tue 9th Aug 2022 | |||||||||||||
There is one sharp, shiny, two and a half finger quartzite crimp which really sets the tone for this route. My beta made for two cruxes, both thin and traversing.
|
|||||||||||||||||||
2845
points
| 5.12b |
★★ 发发要命
![]() | 27m, 13 | 六盘水 Liupanshui | ★★★ Classic | Thu 28th Jul 2022 | |||||||||||||
One burn to sort out my beta, and a second to execute it. Although the crux and harder lower section climbed elegantly, I thrashed with pump through the easy finish.
|
|||||||||||||||||||
2845
points
| 5.11c Easy |
★★ 古木 Ancient Wood
![]() | 14m, 8 | 阳朔 Yangshuo | ★★ Very Good | Thu 28th Dec 2023 | |||||||||||||
Tough to read. Happy to flash this on very detailed beta, quite enjoyable. Pumpy for the grade, and really wore me down for the rest of the day!
|
|||||||||||||||||||
2845
points
| 5.11b |
★★ Bumping Tufas
![]() | 26m, 11 | 昆明 Kunming | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 21st May 2024 | |||||||||||||
Superb line! Long, and quality throughout.
|
|||||||||||||||||||
2844
points
| 5.12b |
★★ 熊猫眼 Panda eye
![]() | 24m, 9 | 昆明 Kunming | ★★ Very Good | Tue 26th Jul 2022 | |||||||||||||
Lovely, spiky red rock riddled with pockets. While the risk of a ledge impact is heady, it can be completely mitigated by extending the second draw above the ledge. Redpointed on my second burn, felt very smooth.
|
|||||||||||||||||||
2841
points
| 5.11b Easy |
★★ 泥鳅 Mud Fish
![]() | 石鼓 Shigu | ★★ Very Good | Tue 7th May 2024 | ||||||||||||||
Lovely tufa features on this short route.
|
|||||||||||||||||||
2841
points
| 5.11b ~5.11c |
★★ 黑天使 Black Angel
![]() | 石鼓 Shigu | ★★★ Classic | Tue 7th May 2024 | ||||||||||||||
Crux was vicious for me, and I really fought for the onsight. I don't think that I misread or missed any significant holds - felt hard for the grade.
|
|||||||||||||||||||
2840
points
| 5.12b |
★★★ Collective Effort
![]() | 26m, 12 | 六盘水 Liupanshui | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 12th Jul 2022 | |||||||||||||
Consistently overhanging face, richly featured with assorted tufa, big flake holds, and just enough crimps to keep things spicy. A difficult start and a technical crux lead into a long endurance climb interspersed with decent resting positions. I could not have sent without the encouragement and route beta of my friends. Catharsis washed over me as I clipped the chains.
|
|||||||||||||||||||
2838
points
| 5.11b ~5.11a |
★★★ A Life Full of You
![]() | 34m | 石鼓 Shigu | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 29th Apr 2024 | |||||||||||||
Exceptionally high quality. The red rock has a coarse grain, which makes for amazing friction. This route climbs so, so well.
|