Rating | Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Date | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
3224
points
| 25 | ★★★ Trojan | 86m, 2 | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Thu 21st Sep 2023 | |||
Another trip objective goes down without too much of a fight. Happy to flash on Paul’s gear.
Plenty of different styles on this but the heartbeat on the pod was a bit surreal.
|
|||||||||
2993
points
| 23 | ★★★ High Dive | 25m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Fri 22nd Sep 2023 | |||
Super last route of the trip. Steep trad.
Collected 68 stars on 31 routes in 7 days
|
|||||||||
2991
points
| 23 | ★★★ Despatched | 40m, 2 | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Sun 17th Sep 2023 | |||
What a route, full commit fun.
Got lucky in a few spots and very pumped by the end of the traverse. Good gear in all the right spots just wish there was move of it
|
|||||||||
2912
points
| 23 ~22 | ★★★ Intransience | 25m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Tue 19th Sep 2023 | |||
No pressure lap on Paul’s gear. Fun enough with plenty of run up top but over good gear.
Would be 21 at Shipley with bolts
|
|||||||||
2834
points
| 28 | ★★★ Venom | 60m, 4 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ★★★ Classic | Sun 14th Oct 2018 | |||
Project one tick.
Felt pretty hard first lap, punted if after the traverse second shot, sent the no pressure shot on the 3rd.
Some incredible holds on this one, bit spooge today.
|
|||||||||
2829
points
| 22 | ★★ Honeycomb | 30m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Fri 22nd Sep 2023 | |||
A great crack that should see more repeats. Don’t worry about the bees, they left us alone.
Plugged a few C3’s in the narrow crack for the move then easy jugging to the top
|
|||||||||
2828
points
| 22 ~21 | ★★ Cecilia | 25m, 4 | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Tue 19th Sep 2023 | |||
I worked myself up expecting a solid lead, turns out it’s easy and a lot of fun. So much so I did two laps.
|
|||||||||
2828
points
| 22 | ★★ The Second Coming | 57m | Arapiles | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 18th Sep 2023 | |||
One of the best routes I did this trip. Both pitch’s challenging my mind and skills. I lead both pitch and got a bit lost up top of the second.
|
|||||||||
2827
points
| 22 | ★★ Glory Rodent | 20m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Sat 16th Sep 2023 | |||
Took me a couple up climbs to commit to the start, then just hang on.
|
|||||||||
2762
points
| 25 | ★★★ Mr T (Mr Josh Left Variant) | 35m, 9 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ★★★ Classic | Fri 19th Oct 2018 | |||
Did mr J years ago so nice to do the other variant. Probably a touch harder but doesn’t really add anything. Pumpy warm up.
|
|||||||||
2747
points
| 22 | ★ Spasticus Autisticus | 17m, 3 | Arapiles | ★ Good | Sat 16th Sep 2023 | |||
Harder than it looks from the ground but fun enough. The only no star route we did all trip
|
|||||||||
2659
points
| 21 | ★★★ Trinity Wall | 30m | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Thu 21st Sep 2023 | |||
Crazy route in a wild spot.
Took a couple attempts to establish on the line including a down climb.
Steady climbing with great gear and lots of memorable holds
|
|||||||||
2579
points
| 21 | ★★★ A Taste of Honey | 27m | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Fri 22nd Sep 2023 | |||
Redemption, almost 10 years after I back off it due to wet holds. Felt pretty easy on Paul’s gear.
|
|||||||||
2527
points
| 23 | ★★★ Spoilt Mercy (Link-up) | 32m, 10 | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sat 21st Mar 2020 | |||
Another great route on this wall but a touch more pumper then I would have liked for a warm up. Has a taipan feel about it after the crimp traverse.
|
|||||||||
2491
points
| 20 | ★★★ Thunder Crack | 30m | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Sun 17th Sep 2023 | |||
One off the life list. A great challenge in a wild position. Must do.
|
|||||||||
2483
points
| 24 | ★★ Highlites | 27m, 8 | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sun 30th Jul 2017 | |||
Not quite the warm down I was looking for but a sick route in its own right. Pumpy open hander bottom half, crimpy foot free traverse middle then engaging top. I was working hard.
Thanx for the rebolt, Evan??
|
|||||||||
2477
points
| 26 | ★★ The Fortress | 18m, 2 | Arapiles | ★ Good | Tue 19th Sep 2023 | |||
I shouldn’t have bothered. The only route I fell off this trip and the worst
|
|||||||||
2452
points
| 25 | ★★ Shattering Reflections Of Climbing Ability | 15m, 3 | Victoria Range | ★ Good | Fri 16th Sep 2016 | |||
Easy flash thanx to Pauls gear. Hard crimpy start but gets easier and easier to the top out. Some of the Rock is a bit soft but fun.
|
|||||||||
2413
points
| 20 | ★★ Kingdom Come | 45m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Thu 21st Sep 2023 | |||
Lap on simo’s gear. He made it look 24 but turns out it is 20 and good chimney practice.
Up to the lower off.
|
|||||||||
2328
points
| 19 | ★★★ Judgement Day | 67m, 1 | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Mon 18th Sep 2023 | |||
First and third with Mitch.
Super rock and a great position on one of the best walls. Loved it.
I thought the second pitch was harder than the third.
|
|||||||||
2328
points
| 19 | ★★★ Morfydd | 30m | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Sun 17th Sep 2023 | |||
Great route, I will climb it again no doubt.
Keeps you working the whole way with plenty of funky movement.
|
|||||||||
2232
points
| 27 | ★★★ World Party | 53m, 9 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 7th May 2015 | |||
This was taipans parting gift for the couple of days hard work and average weather.
After a couple quick working shots on the crux and a good brush I sent through the crux pitch and then went on to Onsight the top. A climb that will stay with me forever and a fight that left me feeling totally wrecked. Amazing linking the top two pitchs. |
|||||||||
2202
points
| 24 | ★★ Redneck Love | 35m, 16 | Bare Rock | ★★★ Classic | Fri 9th Jan 2015 | |||
Long Long and wicked fun.
As far as a warm up goes I was pretty pumped at the top after a well fought fight. The mix of trad and bolts keeps you on your toes the whole way with many thought provoking sections and sick moves.
Buckle up and enjoy the ride.. |
|||||||||
2157
points
| 18 | ★★ I'm A Little Dinosaur | 25m | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Sat 16th Sep 2023 | |||
I have always wanted to do this route, tricker then I had expected
|
|||||||||
2157
points
| 18 | ★★ Gilt Edged | 40m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Sat 16th Sep 2023 | |||
Tuff at the grade, great route to get into the style. Mitch lead the second pitch
|
|||||||||
2082
points
| 25 | ★★★ Henry Bolte | 30m, 3 | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Fri 8th May 2015 | |||
What a way to finish the trip...
Messed up the Onsight but dialed it down for the send. Sweet route if you like slope crimps and mono's.
|
|||||||||
2081
points
| 25 25 R | ★★★ Medusa | 35m, 3 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ★★★ Classic | Mon 4th May 2015 | |||
Wow that's a pitch and a half.
I tried getting all the gear in the right places with long runner but the rope got stuck in the first flake, mega drag
Sent second shot but was really working up top and that first run out is very gripping!!
|
|||||||||
2071
points
| 23 | ★★★ Birdman of Alcatraz | 30m | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Fri 8th May 2015 | |||
Nice to tick off another araps Classic. Not that hard but super fun at the grade with great gear and a awesome mix of styles and climbing. I found the last layback section the hardest.
|
|||||||||
2070
points
| 23 | ★★ Variance | 18m, 4 | Victoria Range | ★★ Very Good | Tue 5th May 2015 | |||
Sadly not as good as I was hoping Some cool moves for sure and great rock but it kind of cuts left when the going gets tuff.
|
|||||||||
2069
points
| 24 | ★★ Land of Green Navels | 30m, 10 | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sun 27th Oct 2013 | |||
Had the cams so the time was right to try this old mixed route. Its not dissimilar all the other slabs in the area, good fun and pumpy.
Sux about the sandy broken flake at the crux otherwise it would be classic.
|
|||||||||
2050
points
| 23 | ★★ Pocket Full of Dreams | 25m, 2 | Victoria Range | ★★★ Classic | Wed 17th Oct 2018 | |||
Nice warm down route after you do the first moves
|
|||||||||
2047
points
| 25 | ★★★ Samarkand - with Paul Frothy Thomson | 150m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 11th Dec 2015 | |||
Stone fort goes down.
What a rad trad day out in the gross and what an awesome climb. 98% good rock and bomber gear the whole way. Not that hard for the grade, I think I managed to sport climb any of the harder crack sections.
Onsight odd pitchs, clean second evens.
If you have been thinking about doing this climb I highly recommend it. |
|||||||||
2036
points
| 24 | ★★ Arch Enema | 17m, 5 | Summerday Valley | ★★ Very Good | Tue 9th Jul 2013 | |||
Glad the slab gets 24 online as it felt harder then 23 on the rock. The climb isn't that great (sharp) but the squeeze is heaps a fun. Perhaps a second bolt should be added to the anchor to make the lower before the chimney safer.
|
|||||||||
2035
points
| 23 | ★★ Give a Dog a Bone | 20m | Bare Rock | ★★ Very Good | Fri 9th Jan 2015 | |||
Just like an arapiles steep trad gully grovel but in all the best ways. The steep groove start kept trying to spit me out but like a tick I dug in and up to easier ground up and left. Great layback finish with bomber gear.
|
|||||||||
2031
points
| 23 | ★★★ Mr Siegel | 18m, 6 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sat 27th Dec 2014 | |||
Sweet climb with many funky moves and cool holds. The start move to a pocket is tricky and would be pretty hard for the short. The rest of the route is a great mix of styles and rest holds. Save some gas for the top.
Worth bringing a couple of cams down for sure.
|
|||||||||
2018
points
| 21 | ★★★ Tranzister | 40m | Wolgan Valley | ★★★ Classic | Sat 18th Aug 2018 | |||
The reason we came here 7 years ago (but forgot small gear) and the reason we came back today. Great onsight by Emil which set the theme for many flash repeats placing gear. Hard pull at the crux roof with bomber gear then good crack holds above.
|
|||||||||
2014
points
| 25 | ★★★ The Free Route | 65m, 8 | Fortescue Bay | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 4th Jan 2012 | |||
A 5 year dream realize.
Onsited the 24 first pitch, it wasn't to bad and good fun. The rock on the whole pillar is immaculate with just a couple hidden holds. I was given the chance to onsite the second pitch so I gave it 110% and came up gold. Long pitch with two crux's so good and such a wild spot. Topped out and noticed a guy taking photos of me from the main land. He left me his bussniess card on my bag. A climb I will never forget.
|
|||||||||
1992
points
| 17 | ★★★ Mari | 35m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Tue 19th Sep 2023 | |||
Well I almost fell off the start by jamming the crack instead of lay backing. Great steep corner above
|
|||||||||
1983
points
| 21 | ★★ Powder Monkey | 30m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sun 30th Jul 2017 | |||
Felt pretty touch and go on the warm up. Really good with a few commiting moves with a uk grit feel.
|
|||||||||
1971
points
| E4 6a E4 6a | ★★ Indoor Fisherman | 10m | Froggatt Edge | ★★ Very Good | Thu 9th May 2013 | |||
First E4 and last route of the trip before the rain started. Glad to climb something a little harder and only wish we had more time to push the limits a little further. Sad to be leaving the grit but glad to still have working ankles.
|
|||||||||
1960
points
| 23 | ★★ Pocket Full of Dreams | 25m, 2 | Victoria Range | ★★★ Classic | Mon 5th May 2014 | |||
Very good line and I am very glad the the first bolt has been replaced. Its all about trust in your rubber on the start the trust in your hands on the damp holds at the top of the run out.
|
|||||||||
1953
points
| 23 | ★★ Incensed | 15m, 3 | The Rock | ★★ Very Good | Sun 1st Jan 2017 | |||
Back dated
Got all hot and bothered on my first shot, cleaned it up second. Climbs better then it looks and is really good fun. It was a bit tricky to fine the holds the first time. |
|||||||||
1950
points
| 22 | ★★★ Psychodrama | 45m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Fri 25th Sep 2015 | |||
What an awesome long adventure. I didn't mind the unprotected start just set a good over grip start for the rest of the route. With no chalk on the route some of the slab sequences could have gone either way. Piddo classic for sure.
|
|||||||||
1939
points
| 23 | ★★ Infant Terror | 45m, 16 | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sun 16th Nov 2014 | |||
45 metres of pumpy orange goodness. Andy onsighted the full climb then lowered back the the top of the first pitch. I second the first pitch with some wild and hard traverse moves then keep plugging to flash top pitch. Pretty dang pumped at the cliff top. Windy!!
|
|||||||||
1936
points
| 26 | ★★★ Rattlesnake Shake | 35m, 7 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ★★★ Classic | Sat 20th Oct 2018 | |||
Would have been the icing on the cake for a mega gramps week if I hadn’t rushed and punted the last move to the jug
Great mega taipan route with a lots of different style and some slippery holds. Get on it!!
|
|||||||||
1919
points
| 21 | ★★ Staircase | 35m, 2 | The Rock | ★★ Very Good | Sun 1st Jan 2017 | |||
Back dated
A bit scary and pumpy for a warm up. I felt like I always had my hands the wrong way around the wrong way. |
|||||||||
1880
points
| 23 | ★★ Diminishing Returns (Top Half) | 30m, 5 | Victoria Range | ★★★ Classic | Tue 6th May 2014 | |||
Super, reminded me of some of the first pitch routes on taipan. A great find Kent.
Linking unlikely pockets on great rock.
|
|||||||||
1879
points
| 25 | ★★★ Mr. Joshua Pitch 1 | 28m, 8 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 2nd Jul 2013 | |||
Wow taipan rocks!!! First shot putting the gear on fell at the crux, sent second shot pumped out of my mind. I resorted to using any and all of my body part to stay on the wall as my hands weren't working.
|
|||||||||
1870
points
| 23 | ★★ The Seventh Banana Pitch 1 | 20m | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ★★★ Classic | Tue 9th Jul 2013 | |||
The last pitch of my grampians trip, sent in the setting sun on one of the best walls in the world.
Plus the climb is very good as well, good times.
|
|||||||||
1869
points
| 24 23 | ★★★ Orestes | 40m | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Sun 7th Jul 2013 | |||
This can't be 24 surely? Great climbing at 23 with some thin moves but plenty of rests. A tricky one to clean if not seconded.
|
|||||||||
1869
points
| 22 | ★★ Dien Bien Phu | 25m, 6 | Wolgan Valley | Sun 19th Aug 2018 | ||||
Past tick
Another great slab, I vaguely remember some very thin holds
|
|||||||||
1852
points
| 20 | ★★★ Barton's Effort | 35m, 8 | Wolgan Valley | ★★ Very Good | Sat 18th Aug 2018 | |||
Tuff warm up, I can tell I haven't climbed many slabs recently cause this felt hard. Great fun though.
|
|||||||||
1852
points
| 20 | ★★★ TDM | 35m | Wolgan Valley | ★★★ Classic | Sat 18th Aug 2018 | |||
Placing gear but with chalk all over it I can't claim an onsight. I think this is better, harder and longer then tranzister. Great rock on this one.
|
|||||||||
1833
points
| 21 | ★★ Midnight Lightning | 30m, 1 | Point Perpendicular | ★★★ Classic | Sat 19th Mar 2016 | |||
I can't believe I hadn't done this before. Fun face climbing down low then commiting fridge hugging on the top arête.
|
|||||||||
1829
points
| 16 R | ★★★ Brolga | 90m | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Wed 20th Sep 2023 | |||
Another off the want list.
Slick slab made more slick by the down pour mid climb. Glad it dried quickly. Good hear the whole way, but glad we used twins.
Did as two pitches
|
|||||||||
1827
points
| 22 24 | ★★ Nose Job | 30m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Fri 8th May 2015 | |||
The way we climbed this up comeing on Chris, with the gear in it 22...Max.
Still a fun climb with some great holds and bomber gear.
|
|||||||||
1821
points
| 22 | ★★★ Iron Curtain | 130m | Bungonia Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Sat 26th Jul 2014 | |||
Radical route and despite, it being the the easiest multi in the gorge its still no cake walk. The crux is in the first 8m then continues funky and interesting climbing on all the pitches.
Recently cleaned so go give it a lap.
|
|||||||||
1820
points
| 24 | ★★ Rhinocerotic Crack | 20m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sat 12th Apr 2014 | |||
Dang it so close on the onsight, put all the gear on to the top of the crux then tried climbing back to the knee bar cave to recover. Didn't recover when I climbed back and pumped off.
Felt a couple of grades easier once the gear is on. Good fun.
|
|||||||||
1810
points
| 21 | ★★★ Cock Corner | 30m | Frog Buttress | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 4th Jan 2016 | |||
Wow this route is mega in many ways. Mega hard, mega pumpy, mega long and the crux above the ledge is mega scary. I must be getting old.
|
|||||||||
1797
points
| 22 | ★ Archimedes Principle P1 | 20m | Victoria Range | ★★ Very Good | Tue 6th May 2014 | |||
Bit soft but a good fun pitch. The sideways start puts you closer to the ground then when you start. Fun Fun.
|
|||||||||
1791
points
| 22 | ★★★ Blunt instrument/Burning spear P2 Link-Up (Blunt instrument linked into Burning spear p2) | 35m, 8 | Fortescue Bay | ★★★ Classic | Tue 6th Jan 2015 | |||
The one long pitch...
A big hold had recently broken off above the first bolt but I doubt it really changes the grade. A couple of interesting moves and a couple of cams takes you to the half way ledge and a rest before attacking the upper pitch.
I found the top sequence harder and not as good as I thought it would be. Sadly its contrived and hard to stay off the top moves of Sacred Site.
|
|||||||||
1786
points
| 24 | ★★ Kanoon | 12m, 4 | Coffs Harbour | ★★★ Classic | Sun 22nd Dec 2013 | |||
Rad steep juggy corner with a great loft crux. Top is no give away either.
I didn't commit to the throw and popped off, easy second shot. The lone mini fixed should just be replaced by a bolt.
|
|||||||||
1769
points
| 24 | FA ★★ Quran Calling | 30m, 12 | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sun 27th Oct 2013 | |||
FFA. Wow that went a little easier then I expected, the starts thin but its all about the footwork. Climbs on the left side of the arete the whole way (I climbed onto the right at one point and the rope around the arete was scary.)
Such a mega line up big arete, proud indeed.
Thanx for the catches Paul..
|
|||||||||
1757
points
| 18 | ★★ King Rat | 20m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Sat 16th Sep 2023 | |||
Did this years ago. Fun lap
|
|||||||||
1751
points
| 24 M1 26 | ★★★ Siblings Of The Sun | 260m, 61 | Bungonia Gorge | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 25th Jul 2014 | |||
Super route, been wanting to get on this for years. Every pitch is hard even the 18 top pitch.
Onsighted 1,3,5 free the others bar the crux pitch which I dogged through. This route is the full package and is even better then I was expecting.
First pitch pumpy layback, 2nd tricky traverse, 3rd pumpy 45m pitch, 4th tricky start then funky pockets high, 5th trad vagina pumpy head wall to crapy rock. 6th sweet Thailand pitch of pumpy open handers, 7th the hard one, 8th ramp to tricky pull.
Rad!! |
|||||||||
1751
points
| 24 | ★★★ Impulse | 18m | Frog Buttress | ★★★ Classic | Tue 27th Aug 2013 | |||
I finally got the chance to try this classic. Every year I have been up here I have want to climb this and today was the day.
Fell two moves from the top in a common spot on the onsight, sent second shot and donated a green C3 for the next ascensionist. Wicked and sustained climbing with thin but adequate gear.
|
|||||||||
1742
points
| E3 6a E3 6a | ★★ Telli | 10m | Stanage | ★★★ Classic | Wed 8th May 2013 | |||
End of the day pebble pulling, pretty straight forward climb with ok gear. This climb looked scary when we first looked at it a week ago, it's amazing what a week on UK climbing does for your bold score.
|
|||||||||
1742
points
| E3 6a E3 6a | ★★ The Asp | 10m | Stanage | ★★ Very Good | Wed 8th May 2013 | |||
Short but action packed crack route. Gear a little tricky, try not to fill your hand holds with gear.
It was kind of over before I knew it about good value at E3.
|
|||||||||
1740
points
| E3 6a E3 6a | ★★ Goose Creature | 15m | Llanberis Valley Area | ★★ Very Good | Thu 2nd May 2013 | |||
Pretty fun little E3 slab. The whole E grades rating is taking a little to get used to between a trad grade and the same sport grade but I think we are getting into it.
Hard hard crux but then it kicks back a fair bit.
|
|||||||||
1740
points
| E3 6a E3 6a | ★★ Zzzooming the Tube | 22m | Llanberis Valley Area | ★★ Very Good | Thu 2nd May 2013 | |||
You get your money's worth with this one. Hard slab sequences for the two bolts then its the top. I had to work for this and was very happy to reach the top.
|
|||||||||
1721
points
| 22 | ★★★ Child in Time | 25m | Frog Buttress | ★★★ Classic | Tue 27th Aug 2013 | |||
Gee I was working hard for this one. Thin sequence start then sustained thin hands for ever. I have really want to climb this for a while and it didn't disappoint.
|
|||||||||
1721
points
| 22 | ★ Yodel up the Valley | 22m | Frog Buttress | ★★ Very Good | Tue 27th Aug 2013 | |||
I would have never got on this one but damion said it was a good egg. Interesting climbing with a weird move to get into the peapod rest then bolt and rad face climbing to the top.
Pretty easy but a touch bold toward the top.
|
|||||||||
1705
points
| 22 | ★★★ Scorpion Corner | 25m | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Sat 6th Jul 2013 | |||
Felt pretty easy even though a muffed the roof crux. Great gear and lower off's... Perfect.
And then the rain started, time for beers.
|
|||||||||
1702
points
| 22 22 R | ★★★ Memorable Moves | 30m | Point Perpendicular | ★★★ Classic | Fri 18th Mar 2016 | |||
So glad to finally free this old dog. Scene of one of my biggest trad whipper of all time a few years ago. Felt fine today with solid moves and bomber gear.
|
|||||||||
1687
points
| 21 | ★★★ Vincent HRD | 28m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sat 22nd Nov 2014 | |||
A classic Boyce gem and a line that should be on any crack climbers list.
Traverse off the ledge and out over the void onto the line. Great gear, sustained hand jambs and plenty of jugs, plus its soft so what more to ask for..
|
|||||||||
1685
points
| 21 | ★★★ Spoilt Brats and Gash Attacks | 57m, 10 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sun 16th Nov 2014 | |||
Why have I waited so long to get on this gem. The route of the wall linking flakes and jugs into a awesome long pumper.
|
|||||||||
1681
points
| 22 | ★★★ Yankee Go Home | 26m | Frog Buttress | ★★★ Classic | Fri 8th Jan 2016 | |||
My Onsight finished with my right hand on the jug at the end of the second crux... A massive flapper and a shot and a half later I got past and into my own personal crux in the steep V groove about. 5 days on and hitting the wall.
|
|||||||||
1656
points
| 21 | ★★ World Party Pitch 1 | 20m | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ★ Good | Mon 4th May 2015 | |||
Kind of fun and a good adventure. Take lots of long draws.
|
|||||||||
1644
points
| 20 | ★★★ Odin | 30m | Frog Buttress | ★★★ Classic | Wed 6th Jan 2016 | |||
I have long wanted to climb this and it didn't disappoint. A great adventure made better when I ran out of gear and had to make it or break it up the last bomber hand jamb section.
|
|||||||||
1644
points
| 20 | ★★★ Rickety Kate | 15m | Frog Buttress | ★★★ Classic | Mon 4th Jan 2016 | |||
Awesome route that I was strangely nervous about. Hard but happy.
|
|||||||||
1638
points
| E3 5c E3 5c | ★★★ Time For Tea | 20m | Millstone Edge | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 7th May 2013 | |||
The line we most worried about climbing. Wicked finger crack slab that was finger locking fun to a tricky move before the crack fused up and your faced with a 5 m traverse and run out to the top. Brilliant...
|
|||||||||
1634
points
| 23 | ★★ I've Heard It All Before | 230m, 99 | Mount Brown Main Face | ★★ Very Good | Mon 5th Jan 2015 | |||
Big wall'in on a big sea cliff.
Pay close attention to the rap description, as andy and myself got off line and a rope stuck. Poor andy had to prussic 40 odd metres to free the rope and a big swing by myself to get back on line.
We did the 20 start with a wild and memorable belay 3m above the surging sea. Make sure you climb left on the second pitch.. The two hard pitches up top are great fun with the 23 crux crack boulder problem awesome fun. |
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1628
points
| 21 | ★★★ Kachoong | 25m, 1 | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Sat 10th May 2014 | |||
Did this a few years ago, seconded paul today. Sadly this route is more intimidating then it is hard. A couple of pulls and its over, true to the old saying "Its only gym 19 mate"
Campused the roof for extra fun.
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1628
points
| 21 | ★★★ Chinese Algebra | 48m | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Sat 10th May 2014 | |||
Sweet arapiles classic. Good to keep ticking off these mount gems every chance I get.
A varied climb with mostly great gear and pumpy crux, long and on super rock.
Get some!
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1620
points
| 21 21 R | ★★★ Quits | 65m, 4 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sat 12th Apr 2014 | |||
Wow that how you finish a classics piddo day in style. After years of wanting to get up on this wall we sucked up the balls to commit to the run out swinging jugs traverse high on the golden wall. Pity about the dirty wet approach pitch, well worth the effort.
Claw classic... |
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1616
points
| 18 | ★★ Crossfire | 25m | Flat Rock | ★★ Very Good | Sun 14th Oct 2018 | |||
Really great corner in the middle. Fun to place the trads
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1591
points
| 17 R | ★★★ Missing Link | 30m | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Sun 17th Sep 2023 | |||
Seconded this 20 years ago, fun to do now with plenty of thought provoking gear placements.
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1585
points
| 23 A1 25 | ★ Screaming Tribesman | 280m, 1 | Bungonia Gorge | ★ Good | Sat 26th Jul 2014 | |||
We attempted the top 3 pitches after climbing iron curtain. Onsighted the sweet but very pumpy 23 trad pitch. Paul gave the 25 pitch a solid crack but was shut down by dirty rock and it went down hill from there.
This pitch could be good with a good scrub.
Got lost all most linking the next two pitches to the top. Very scary and dirty slabs to the top. Would be great with a scrub but with mostly interesting and average gear I was terrified.
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1575
points
| 23 | ★ Screaming Tribesman | 280m, 1 | Bungonia Gorge | ★ Good | Sat 23rd May 2015 | |||
Just seconded paul on the 23 trad pitch. Still very pumpy but not as bad as I remember, lots of good gear if you can hang around to place it.
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1574
points
| 20 | ★ Inspiration Crack | 110m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Fri 4th Jan 2019 | |||
If you avoid the first pitch and rap to the carrots at the start of the second then this route is pretty rad multi. The rock isn’t as bad as I had expected, the moves are fun, the gear is good (takes hex’s and 2x #3, #4) the biggest downfall for me is the approach from the lookout is pretty horrible Bush bash but it’s short.
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1571
points
| 20 | ★★ Atomic Tadpole | 40m | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ★★ Very Good | Thu 7th May 2015 | |||
A great long pitch to say you have climbed on taipan. Good gear the whole way with a bomber wire on the last head wall protecting the tricky and reachy finish.
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1555
points
| 26 | ★★ Snake Flake | 25m, 4 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ★★ Very Good | Mon 4th May 2015 | |||
Flash up to the 'move' and after but couldn't stick the weird crux. It's a fun runout to the top from the piton if you don't take gear
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1550
points
| 22 | ★★★ On Edge | 28m, 5 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Fri 25th Sep 2015 | |||
Classic MikL sandbag.
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1548
points
| 21 | ★★★ Day of Reckoning | 30m, 3 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sat 17th Aug 2013 | |||
Yep still scary, seconded paul...
I onsighted this a couple of years ago. Great wall and arête climbing that is no easy win.
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1540
points
| 22 | ★★★ Pole Dancer | 40m, 12 | Cape Raoul | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 6th Jan 2012 | |||
14 hour day for one climb.
Fully worth it.
Stella.
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1538
points
| 21 24 | ★★ Alhelal | 45m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Tue 16th Jul 2013 | |||
Dogged the wet hard start (sent it last time) and wandered up the long and traversing line. Super fun with plenty of high heal rock overs. Don't worry to much about the trad rack it's mostly all carrots with a 2 and .75 cam.
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1537
points
| 27 | ★★★ Hollow Men Direct | 28m, 7 | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sun 30th Jul 2017 | |||
Yeah I sussed out. One of the last classic hard route to do at cosmic and I will be back. The route and the moves are rad but I need to come back with a better head space for the committing runouts...
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1536
points
| 21 | ★★★ Soweto | 30m | Summerday Valley | ★★★ Classic | Tue 9th Jul 2013 | |||
Looked like an easy warm up, while the climbing is easy the thin gear including the smallest Rp I had made me crimp down that little harder..
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1534
points
| 21 | ★ Constrictor | 18m, 3 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ★ Good | Wed 3rd Jul 2013 | |||
Nice one Neil, good warm up and fun climbing. Crux at the very beginning then fun slabbin.
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1534
points
| 21 | ★★ No Future | 30m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Mon 1st Jul 2013 | |||
Great thin gear route. Couple of hard moves at mid heigh then cruise. Well picked Scott.
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