Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
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{UIAA} 5 | |||||
Ghana Eastern Region Mount Krobo Fudge Boulders | |||||
{UIAA} 5 | ★★ Cailler Haselnut
Set: Guido von Ohlen FA: Guido von Ohlen | 10m | |||
Kenya Baringo Lesukut Island | |||||
{UIAA} 5 | 9
Routes 8 and 9 start from an easy slab found some 8m. above the water level and between the 2 great pinnacles, from either of which the slab can be reached. From the easy slabs move diagonally rightwards to gain a very steep corner with loose blocks at its base (almost directly above a chimney leading up to the right pinnacle ledge). Climb directly in the comer, trending right to top. | ||||
{UIAA} 5 | ★ 8
Routes 8 and 9 start from an easy slab found some 8m. above the water level and between the 2 great pinnacles, from either of which the slab can be reached. Climb to 2 facing corners. Gain base of left one with difficulty and finish up right corner and a slab wall to the right of it. | ||||
Kenya Mt Kenya Tereri | |||||
{UIAA} 5 | ★ WNW Ridge
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Kenya Mt Kenya Point Slade | |||||
{UIAA} 5 | East Rib
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{UIAA} 5 | Speaker's Corner
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{UIAA} 5 | The Great Slab
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{UIAA} 5 | South Face
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Kenya Mt Kenya Midget Peak | |||||
{UIAA} 5 | Nek Lace
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{UIAA} 5 | Midgit Minimus
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{UIAA} 5 | SE Buttress
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Kenya Mt Kenya Point Pigott | |||||
{UIAA} 5 | Tyndall Buttress
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{UIAA} 5 | ENE Ridge
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{UIAA} 5 | South Face
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Kenya Mt Kenya Point John minor | |||||
{UIAA} 5 | South East Ridge
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Kenya Mt Kenya Point John | |||||
{UIAA} 5 | Point John Couloir
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Kenya Mt Kenya Nelion and Batian | |||||
{UIAA} 5 | Mackinnon's Couloir
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{UIAA} 5 | NE Pillar of Nelion
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{UIAA} 5 | East Gate
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{UIAA} 5 | NE Buttress of Batian
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{UIAA} 5 | French Route
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{UIAA} 5 | Northerly Glacier
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{UIAA} 5 | West Ridge
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{UIAA} 5 | West Face
Start from Two Tarn Hut. Ascend the Tyndall Glacier to the foot of a steep snow-slope rising up rightwards between the two hanging glaciers, Forel (left) and Heim (right). Then climb directly up the snow/ice-field for about 250 m, making for a rib on the upper part of the face which is not too evident. Most parties pass to the right of it. Climb up to the right to a cave (bivouac site), and either make a long traverse left to the gully (IV inf.) which leads up to the summit; or climb up the rock (V) trending right to the South-West Ridge. The first three-quarters of the route used to require modern ice gear, but at time of writing (2023) the route probably needs reassessing as most glaciers have severely receded. Time: 10 hours. FA: R.A Caulkwell & G.W. Rose, 1995 | ||||
{UIAA} 5 | ★★★ Tower Ridge
Season: Christmas to mid-March Time: 13 hours. This route ascends the prominent ridge, which splits the hanging glaciers of the West Face, from the snowfield / amphitheatre on the South-West Ridge Route. The climb begins from the Tyndall Glacier, left the obvious rock buttress located immediately left of the South-West Couloir. The route works its way up the left side of this buttress to gain the ridge proper approximately 100 m below the prominent Lower Tower (situated lower left side of snowfield/amphitheatre). The major difficulties are low down on the route. From the start, three pitches (IV sup., IV, V), lead to a belay beneath a leftward curving arch. The route then ascends the wall on the left of the arch (V sup.) then breaks rightwards (A1) through an overhang onto easier ground. The route continues up, keeping left of the ridge, for three pitches (III, V, IV sup.), to reach the ridge proper beneath the Lower Tower.One long pitch (IV inf.) reaches the very base of the Tower. The route then leads rightwards on eas ground (good bivouac site), around the base of the Lower Tower (Il), then back leftwards above the Tower (Il), to gain ridge overlooking the West Face. Climb the ridge (Il) to the Upper Tower, which is climbed direct (IV). Continue up the ridge for four pitches (Ill sup., IV, Ill), to reach the South West Ridge. Follow this to summit. FA: Z. Drlik, 1980 | ||||
15 FR:4b | |||||
Uganda MCU Muyenga Quarry Right Hand Wall | |||||
15 FR:4b | ★★★ dibora
FA: Pierre Gay Perret, 15 Jul 2017 | 10m, 4 | |||
10 - 15 | |||||
South Africa Northwest Province Magaliesberg Castle Gorge | |||||
10 - 15 | Castle Gorge Pinnacle
This is a 15m high pinnacle on the right hand side, reached by following the stream past Castle and Knight gullies and wading through pools for about 100m. The pinnacle may be climbed by a difficult route on the stream side (15) or by a route (10) on the upstream side starting where the pinnacle joins the wall on the kloof. | 15m | |||
15 A2 | |||||
South Africa Western Cape Cape Winelands Castle Rocks | |||||
15 A2 | Via Diretta
The route lies to the right of the amphitheatre on the Central Turret. It follows a prominent rib that merges into the face halfway up and thereafter it ascends the face above. The first pitch commences on the left of the rib. Scramble up 6o feet to the bottom of two recesses.
Time for ascent: 8 hours. FA: R. Baillie & B. Clark, 1960 | ||||
5.7 | |||||
Ghana Eastern Region Buruku Rock | |||||
5.7 | ★ Bat Shit Crack
An attempt to find that rare route on Buruku with rock you are willing to trust gear in. On north side of monolith. So named for bats who live deep within the crack right who were surprised by Laura Staupin when attempted to climb the using her body as a wedge. Needless to say, Laura wound up coated with bat shit. Currently a short one pitch route that tops out underneath a roof at top of vertical crack systems with series of small roofs. Second pitch was work in progress, but not looking good due to chaussy garbage to the left, right and above. Set: Kelly Baker FFA: Kelly Baker FA: Kelly Baker, Laura Staupin & Danielle Knuppel, 2012 | 18m | |||
Ghana Eastern Region Mount Krobo Caveman Boulder | |||||
5.7 | ★★ Butt Cheeks
Climb over the interesting depressions in the rock and follow the bolt line straight up to the anchors to the left of the overhanging tree. Set: Craig Pearman, 2009 | 20m, 6 | |||
Cabo Verde Fogo Ribeira Wall | |||||
5.7 | Fogos First | 12m | |||
Cabo Verde Fogo Chã Das Caldeiras Ribeira Wall | |||||
5.7 | Fogo's First
Start is on the left pillar of Ribeira Wall. Great warmup route with a view of the dry riverbed and the volcano from the top. About half way up, follow the bolts around to the anchors on the right, rather than going straight up. Bolted, anchors at the top. Picture. | 12m | |||
Rwanda Happy Valley | |||||
5.7 | ★ Erin's Enigma
This route is approached by heading back down to the left (facing outward). Perhaps the nicest route on this outcrop follows the unprotected friction slab next to Doug’s Delight. 5.7 FA: Paul Dobbie & Doug Teschner | 15m | |||
Rwanda Secret Valley | |||||
5.7 | Frog 2
Just left of Frog I, pull up the steep wall and finish. 5.8 FA: unknown | 10m | |||
5.7 | Frog 1
A nice, sustained face climb to the left of Easy Up. 5.7 Reportedly a frog was first observed climbing this route, hence the name. FA: unknown | 10m | |||
5.7 | Couloir
The best route at Secret Valley. Climb the couloir to a steep crescendo finish. 5.7 +. FA: unknown | 10m | |||
Rwanda Nkuli | |||||
5.7 | Nkuli Dancing righthand finish var.
3a. Head right to a thin move past a pin/bolt, then continue right to a grassy ledge with little for an anchor. 100 feet, 5.7 4a. Continue right without protection to the top. 90 feet, 5.5 R FA: unknown | 120m | |||
Kenya Around Nairobi Ma-Voloni Mini-canyon | |||||
{US} 5.7 | Kitu Kidogo
Mantle up to the first bolt. Tricky climbing leads to the second bolt as the terrain eases off to finish. FA: Kris Fiore, Jan 2020 | ||||
Ethiopia Addis Ababa The Craglette | |||||
{US} 5.7 | Homework
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5.7 X | |||||
Rwanda Nkuli | |||||
5.7 X | Heart of Darkness (Nkuli direct finish)
3b. Step slightly left then climb unprotected rock just right of the obvious inside corner. Unprotected moves right lead to a curved arch and a semi-hanging nut belay. 60 feet, 5.5 R 4b. Step left and up nice white rock to a dubious small friend placement, then sustained, thought provoking climbing without protection to the top. 60 feet, 5.7 X FA: Doug Teschner & Erin Shutes, 2004 | 95m |