Routes in Halls Gap Area

This is the LH line on the narrow easy angled buttress leading to a steeper headwall. Up the L side of the buttress and finish up the LH crack.

Up 1m R of Lassi to finish up the RH crack.

Around R of MC. 1m R of the arête are some protruding holds. Up holds and slightly R to finish up middle of headwall. Quite good short route.

3m R of Lahore. Up to and up short L leading groove

Start as for SR then head up and R into next groove and up this.

Short steep R facing corner 6m R of TM. Up corner and steep arête above avoiding large questionable blocks to left. Not recommended.

The easy option. Along the top of the cliff between the Northern Cliff and the descent gully to the Main Cliff is an isolated block. Up to and up the easy chimney on the Northern face.

Start as for JLW but head R up blocks to short crack. Up this.

The LH cliff has a chimney crack at its LH end. Up to an up chimney. Suspect block on L edge near top.

From the saddle where the cairn is head around the L end of the gully cliffs and follow the cliff line L about 15m to a short orange corner with a striking arête to its L. Up the corner to a large ledge. Finish up short steep crack.

3m R of Papadum chimney is a shallow L facing groove. Up to and up groove. Finish up wall past FH.

Directly behind RP or uphill 6m from Emu Kebab. Up and L to short wide crack. Up [BD#4 useful]

5m R of BH. Easily up onto detached flakes. Clip FH and step R. Up and L to groove and up this past FH. Finish up wall to R of flake [wires and small cams].

11m R of Mughlay a short steep crack with a block 1m to its R. Crack [use block] to a tricky exit. BD#4 useful.

2m R of Mughlay, a couple of nice face moves past 2FH. 18/5/2015

Line 1m R of Coat of Arms. Small cams protect the start.

Right of Lentils and Rice is a block with a passage behind it. The front face of this block has an obvious crack/seam up it. 1 FH near top. Packs a lot of fun into a small package.

Link up of 'Rush' and 'Was It Worth It?'

Start as for 'Rush'. Then left into 'Burden Of Proof'.

Up 'Beelzebub' until holds right past 'Wilbur'. Until bulge, then reach high for hold. Then left at 23 or right at 22. Then past bolt on 'Wilbur'. Then tends right to top.

Up 'Beelzebub' until holds right past 'Wilbur'. Until bulge, then reach high for hold. Then left at 23 or right at 22. Then past bolt on 'Wilbur'. Then tends right to top.

Climbs the centre of the very high slab. Finishes once your on the ledge.

Start Matched on the big juggy flake under the roof, move up & left through sloper to funky rail, then up and right through overhang on good holds to a bit of a spicy top out.

Start matched as for Man Overboard, but continue traversing left and top out on the left of the prow. Watch out for dodgy broken rock.

Bridge between the boulders to establish feet on the rail for v5 problem and the larger boulder. Use the big holds along the crack to traverse the boulder and finish on the V0 at the other end. Finish is the hardest part.

Three quite fun moves! Sit Start with funky pockets on the left under the Juggy Flake. Figure out how to pull of the ground then move to the jug, and (dynamically) up and right to a sloper on the lip of the overhang. Top out directly with a gnarly mantle!!! Don't be temped to escape left to an easier top out. Can be started deep in the overhang on crimps at about V6 (V6 FA: Oliver Tobias Bug?)

Note: Community feedback prompted grade change from V3 to V4.

The fantastic short ripple-textured wall on the uphill face of the boulder, far right hand side. Start with the crimps at face height and campus until you can put your feet somewhere useful before topping out right. This is also the easiest way off the Juju Boulder as its not far to jump to the ground from the upper holds of Trippa Snippa.

This is the stand start to Peter Pantastic. Start with decent handholds at or above head height, follow rightwards to top of Peter Pantastic.

The beefy main line of slopers going to the top of the uphill side of the boulder. Sit start on crimps and bad feet, climb up and right before big moves through the slopers and to the top.

Start as for Rapunzel on the magic pumpkin, but trend up and left with difficulty to the tallest part of the boulder. A tad contrived.

Left of Slap A Bunny. Climb the featured face.

Start at the end of Cocaine. Pull onto crimps, make a big move up to side pull. Continue up over bulge and slab with great technical movements.

Go straight up squeezing the prow from both sides from a stand start. Entertaining!

The horrible overhanging off width at the back of the boulder with "Jill". Sit start with your body in the chasm and work your way up and outta there! Don't break your crown.

The RH cliff is about 60m R of Altitude Sickness. It has a steep compact central buttress bounded on the L by a corner. Start 3m L of this corner. Up loose slabby face following dirty cracks to deep crack/groove in steep headwall. Up this on suspect rock to finish up easier groove above. An unpleasant experience all round.

The corner R of THofS. Start down R and finish up a narrow chimney.

The short corner at the left end of the outcrop has an unexpectedly tricky finish.

This is at the LH edge of the very LH buttress just L of an obvious crack in the headwall [Ponderosa]. Climb thin L leaning seam to ledge. Step L and up headwall past the block with a crack behind it.

Good clean crack climb. At the far LH end of the east facing blocks is a block with an obvious crack/groove in its upper wall. Start at the short steep corner down and R of this. Up corner, L under bulge, up awkward crack.

About 20m R of the Ponderosa block is a large orange block. [Gerrymander takes a line on the RH side of this block.] At the LH side of this block is a short chimney between the face and a detached boulder. Chimney up to the chockstone. Step onto the wall and head up across a R leading ramp line to finish up the headwall. Head R to descend.

The RH edge of the Gerrymander block has a big chimney/corner. Up this with some interesting moves near the top.

Down and R of Bonanza about 15m is a thin crack up the L side of a slabby wall. Nice moves up this crack, step L and up steep thin crack in headwall.

2m L of the nice crack of Mughlay is a deep chimney. Up this.

22m R of Footling Precipitation. Up onto the flake then up past 3FH to a DB and rings. Lower off.

Next line of bolts to the R. Up past 3FH [the top one is shared with FS] to DB and rings.

About 7m R of The Crowning. Climb up onto small flake then up buttress past 2FH to a small ledge. Up and L past 3rd FH then traverse L to DB and rings. [It is possible to protect the traverse L with a medium wire behind a flake]

Links together possibly the cleanest rock on the cliff. Starts as for CRC at reachy R leading overlap. R into line, up, then take tricky R leading line across wall for 5m. Then straight up wall, finishing up blunt arete.

Start as for Bella and climb to 2nd bolt, then delicately left across hanging slab and up wall on good natural pro, veering R slightly towards the top.

The bolted line up the clean streak just right of Forced Labour. Thin moves past the first FH then up past 2 more FHs to lower off rings.

About 4m R of Elbow Grease. Up chimney crack to ledge, finish up crack on arête to the L.

About 10m right of Lifters and Leaners. Start near the right hand edge of the face and head up a featured slabby wall to the thin cracks in the middle of the headwall. Up these [small wires and cams] to finish up short groove.

About 5m R of the large split block there is a short right facing groove with a couple of stacked blocks in it leading to a ledge. Up the groove to a ledge, follow thin crack to horizontal break, over bulge and up.

Sustained and interesting. Up Brexit to the ledge. Traverse right to the next thin crack. Up this to the horizontal, step right and up line in headwall.

An easy climb on good rock in a nice position. The arête forming the left hand end of Billy Goat Point. About 5m left of the split blocks.

Start 8m right of the cave exit, 2m right of and below an obvious flake crack. Climb the tricky face to a break. Layback excitingly up the flake then follow cracks and features slightly leftward to the top.

Up Turkish Coup to the break. Traverse right to the crack line. Up.

In the gully behind the Western Lookout is a short wall with a clean cut crack towards its right hand side. Lovely rock and tricky jamming.

Start 8m right of the LH end of the cliff. Climb the short crack and its right wall.

There is a cave formed by a large boulder leaning against the face. Walk through this. Start on a boulder 4m R of the cave exit. Head boldly up to a prominent jug, then continue up the featured wall above.

There are 2 obvious deep lines on the cliff [you can see them from the carpark]. The left one.

Between the two main lines there is a crack with a steep start.

The deep right hand line. Start from the lower tier.

Lovely slab and face climbing on good rock taking a steadily left drifting line. 10m right of Pale Rider. Up the slab past 3FH to a ledge [grade 15 to here with lower off rings on right]. Up left off the ledge past a FH and onto ramp [for the nervous a #2 or #3 cam can be used to protect the move off of the ledge]. Straight up past 2 more FH to the chains on Pale Rider.

The next buttress right of The Preacher [about 15m right]. This buttress has an obvious big groove up its centre. Open Range is the bolted line R of this groove. The upper wall is good fun. Start up a short smooth slab with a FH. Continue up easy crack [medium cam] to below bolted wall. Up wall, at the fifth FH step out R and up to a hidden flake edge. Up and L to sixth FH then up more easily to lower off chains. Alternately continue up to the large ledge and finish up Free Range to abseil off the bolts above Male Bonding. Note: There is a large flake out R of the third FH, it may be quite solid, but it is probably best to avoid using it. It is possible, but a bit harder, to climb direct from the 5th to the 6th FH. Getting past the first FH near the ground is a bit reachy. To keep the grade reasonable the vertically challenged might want to chin on the first bolt!

From the ledge above Open Range. Head up and left to the deep crack. Up this.

1. 25m. Follow easily up until ground steepens. Tending left and upwards until ledge at 25m.

2. 10m. Up wall above the ledge until top.

Follow tracks from Halls Gap; following the Venus Baths track. Just before Venus Baths, the track goes up stairs to left on the way to Splitters Falls. Follow track until near river - then over rocks to the other side. Theres a boulder feild over this: up right and around to top to the base of route.

1. 50m/3 - Starts low across river going up wall and weaving left before tending back right. Belay at boulders.

2. 50m/2 - Up over boulders up high past deep channels and belay on top of boulders up right.

3. 50m/2 - Follow major ridge tending right and up to before break

4. 50m/3 - Off to right from belay and up to large ledge.

5. 40m/2 - Up steep wall onto easy terrain - belay at large block

6. 60m/1 - Weaves on scrambles up low slabs to corner crack.

7. 35m/4 - Interesting corner and good gear. Up and over the left of this to bollard belays.

8. Over deep chasms and up far wall to left side of summit of Mackeys Peak.

Descent via scrambling back down towards pitch 7 but then left and down to right; following down slot to walking track. Track leads back to Halls Gap

Behind the detached split block and about 5m left of Brexit are some large blocks leaning against the face. Up the right edge of these to a ledge. Traverse out right on the narrow sloping ledge to a thin crack. Up this to the bushy ledge. Up the cracks on the undercut arête.

8m right of Credibility Gap. Balancey moves up to a ledge below a thin crack. Climb the detached flakes at the left end of the ledge. From the top of the flakes step right and up the thin crack.

The deep crack 6m right of Brexit. Up the crack for about 6m to a large foothold on the right. Step out left to an obvious foothold on the face. Up to the horizontal break. Finish up the headwall via the thin crack.

The next line of bolts right of HPD to lower off rings. More lovely clean rock.

Can be done as a second pitch to Open Range. Quite airy and interesting. From the RH end of the ledge above Open Range. Step out right and climb up just right of the arête for about 7m until level with a traverse line across the middle of the wall. Traverse right to the second crack. Up this passing an unusual pillar, through a small overhang and on up easier ground to belay. The abseil chains above Male Bonding are just 15m to the right.

About 120m left of where you reach the cliff is a short clean slab leading to a striking crack line. Up the slab past a FH to the foot of the crack. Sustained climbing up the crack passing a FH where it narrows down. Lower off chain at top.

The buttress right of the Feed the Chooks gully has a prominent crack starting half way up it. Start towards the left side of this buttress below the left end of an overlap. Undercling and balance right past the wedged flake. Step up to reach the horizontal break [good gear in the break]. Traverse right to below the crack. Up the crack [BD#4 useful] to the abseil rings below the short headwall. Alternately continue up the headwall to the large ledge and finish up one of the Chooks.

Start as for Feed the Chooks.

1. 11m 11. Up as for Feed the Chooks to the first ledge. Take the first steep crack through the bulge to the large ledge.

2. 27m 15. Up the major steep crack on the face for about 5m. Traverse left on a sloping ledge around the arête. Up the flakes and cracks on the shoulder of the pinnacle to the slab. Up this to belay below the steep headwall.

3. 10m 10. Traverse out right to reach the exposed little corner. Up to the abseil chains [this last section is as for Feed the Chooks]. Peter Cody, Philip Armstrong [alts] 23/10/2016

Old fashioned. A deep chimney/crack line 20m right of Male Bonding forming the left edge of the Silent Reach buttress.

1. 25m 15 The chimney and the shallow corner on its right to ledge under overhang.

2. 30m 13 Up the gully on left for a few meters to a tree on the right hand side. Up the crack behind the tree. Stay in the crack line and when it runs out continue easily to the top of the pinnacle. Short [7m] abseil descent from bolts.

20m uphill and slightly right from the top of Pale Rider. A flake crack on the face to the left of an obvious crack. A good connecting route between the lower cliff and the upper walls. Up the flake and the slabby face above passing 2FHs. Finish up the right edge of the face to abseil chains [24m abseil]. Billy Goat Point is the cliff behind the abseil point. Descending from here requires 2 abseils. The first one gets you down NATO. From the foot of NATO head down and right [looking out] to a large cairn. The abseil chains are just below here. [25m abseil]

6m left of Pale Rider is a chimney. This can be approached by climbing the slab as for Pale Rider then traversing left across to belay below the chimney, or after completing another climb in the area by stopping at the ledge below High Noon when abseiling down. Up the chimney a move [FH] then step out left onto the slabby ramp, up this past a FH. Follow the thin crack on the head wall past 2 more FH to finish at the abseil chains.

13m uphill right from Ernest Tidyman. Up the technical slabby wall past 4FH to lower off rings.

Start below the crack at the right hand edge of the Dunny Brush of Doom buttress. Up into foot of crack [can be protected by a medium wire]. Step right and up past 3 FH to lower off rings.

Just right of Forceps Delivery is a thin left leaning crack. Up crack past a FH. Continue up past the second FH to a scoop. Step left to join Forceps Delivery at its third FH. Up to lower off rings.

Start low left of Overdose on small crimps. Make a few powerful moves up over small holds leading to the start holds of Overdose, continue up.

On the downhill side of the boulder, from far right traverse leftwards using the obvious sloping crack accross the overhanging wall and topout frighteningly at the tallest point of the face. Mega

Link Cocaine into Overdose. Long, pumpy, powerful, technical, awesome!

Start as for Joe for PM. Up the short steep crack on the right. Up the ramp to the thin flake. Up this and the shallow groove above.

There is a short wall just left of the Here’s Trouble pinnacle. The surprisingly strenuous and awkward little crack on this wall. Scramble leftward through the cave behind the climb for the quickest descent.

The steep right facing corner crack system up and right from the trees above Open Range. From above the overhang at the end of the difficulties it is possible to continue straight up in the crack line or step right and up another easy crack system.

Start up the chimney at the right hand end of the ledge above Open Range. There is a shallow flake crack on the right wall about 7m up. Chimney out next to this to a ledge on the arête. Move up and right about 2m to a concealed crack. Up this and the easier ground above.

This route is good for access to the climbs on the Western Lookout after doing a climb on the West Face. The wall directly behind the finish of Restricted Range and Range Hood. Up the seam in the middle of the face passing 3FH. Some small cams can be placed. Abseil bolts up and right 3m at the top.

10m right of The Preacher. Can be done as one pitch. Pitch one makes a nice short climb in its own right.

1. 12m 17. Up the slab past a FH to the overlap. Through this at the obvious break and up the slab past 2FH to DBB.

2. 12m 18. Layback wildly up the overhanging offwidth corner [3FH]. Abseil rings to the left.

Takes the right edge of the Open Range face. 5m right of Open Range is a short right curving seam. Up the seam, then pick your way up to and up the right arête finishing at the rings.