Ascents in New South Wales and ACT as various tick types

Decided to rapp down after pitch 4 as we didn't want to do the last pitch in dark. Also learnt that unfrequented long trad lines wondering on sometimes seemingly blank limestone walls can be very time consuming to navigate and be mentally challenging.. This route gave me a moment of pondering to myself about why the hell im out here.. But afterwards cherishing the moments and craving to do it all again. Led pitches 2 and 4 which were both great! Mostly found lots of good pro on my pitches and I sure made use of all of it. Sadly we probably didn't do the best part, The top 2 pitches, and are keen to return for that.

Plan was to do first 4 pitches of air Malta but we were so excited to see shiny hangers up good rock we jumped on this by mistake.. It seemed a little off as there was no obvious mantle in p1 etc and it was bit longer but the grade seemed on point so didn't think to much of it. I led P2 thinking im up for a 20m 21 and got served a ±50 metre 24. Somehow managed to queak through for the onsight though.. Yeeew! First 2 pitches are both very good.. The rest remains something to aspire to..

A veritable waterfall. Shhh Pat, don't tell them we left booty...🤫

Made an after work attempt with Alex during a (slightly shorter than anticipated) break in the rain this week. Cruised up the first pitch and started on the second pitch just in time for the heavens to open up. I got drenched in seconds as the climb turned into a waterfall. Bailed off a ring and we rapped back to the ground

Led the first pitch but it started pouring with rain about half way up, so much so that i had to run it out from about halfway to the belay ledge as i couldnt hang on to the slippery holds for long enough to put the bolt plates on. Rapped off and did the long hike out in the rain. Saw the mountain goat on lunch ledge when we went back to collect our gear. (I was 14)

Climbed the first two (linked together), then ran out of light and had to bail. Some beautiful moves and some dodgy rock, a bit more of a mixed bag than expecte really. The first pitch was quite classic, but the second sucked really. Will be back to check out the upper pitch later.

We tried to do "one last climb" on Saturday at 6pm. Lead P1 without much issue. The chimney is pretty poorly protected, and falling would lead to serious injury, but the moves are easy enough, so I made it to the anchor without much issue.

On P2, Nat got off route pretty severely and ended up traversing right, when she was about 2m to the right of the p2 anchor, due to tunnel vision caused by how run out she already was and the onset of darkness, with almost no gear to the tree on top of Mazurka. When I started seconding, now in the dark, I was kind of over it at this point and just wanted to get to the tree to bail, so I decided to french free. The first cam I pulled on blew, and I fell about 8m. After getting back up, when I got to the next pro, I saw that after taking that out, I had about 20m of traversing to do on a slopey slab in the dark, with only 2 pieces of gear, which after blowing a cam already, I did not trust anymore. Too afraid to continue on, I regretted my mistakes leading up to this point and spent a good 30min contemplating how to get out of it. There were no extra placements anywhere near me, just a sandy pocket that had the .4 I was stuck at.

I ended up cleaning up the sandy pocket, I was stuck at, after which it could take an extra .3. I then had myself lowered on the two cams on tag line and top rope, clipping the carrot of Mirrorman back in as extra safety.

Now definitely don't want to make excuses for our poor decision making:

• Don't start a multi at 6pm
• Make sure you leader brings a head torch (we did have them but they were in the second bag)
• If the guidebook states "poorly" protected it probably is.

But I feel like this multi would be more classic if P2 had an extra carrot between the prominent pocket that takes a .3 - .4 cam that I bailed on and the anchor. It would still be an excitingly runout pitch even with the extra carrot. More than happy to pay for this bolt and help placing it.

P1+2 only. Excellent climbing so far.

Simul P1+P2 together. Simul 1+2+3 looks totally doable with a large enough rack. Rapped the route due to an approaching storm. Help yourself to our bail gear!

Don't be a yellow bellied landlubber, get some citrus into ya bod and drag yourself and a fellow seadog down to Perry's to battle your Vitamin C deficiency and embark on a voyage of (self) discovery up through this sea of orange.

Definitely one of the better days of rock climbing I have had. At 11pm the night before I asked Elliot if he wanted to go rock climbing and he said "yeah maybe" which wasn't a very promising response I thought. Then half an hour later he messaged back saying he was psyched and asking if maybe we could do something "he wouldn't normally do". We spoke about Pierces but Elliot was setting till 12 so I figured the sun might be a bit much and then I said "how about Stiletto?" which brought forth a wave of froth over the airwaves. In the conversation that followed I briefly mentioned sourcing a stick clip and heading up Scurvy but that idea was mostly discounted.

The next morning I had a delightful sleep in and Elliot pottered over to mine just after midday. We faffed with gear for half an hour or so and then went to Coles to grab some muesli bars and head torch batteries. When we got back to the car Elliot said something like "fuck yeah! lets go do Scurvy" and I thought something like "fuck me we are really going for it" and suggested we try and get that stick clip. I messaged Liz but when she didn't reply straight away (she has a proper job with real responsibility and can't be on her phone always at work (or writing long winded trip reports on the crag)) I thought that really stick clips are aid and would detract from the vibe of the thing. So we fucked that idea right off and headed to the car park.

We rapped in as for DWD to preserve our onsight (hah) and at the base stuck our head round the corner to look at the route. After ditching our gear I took a moment to show Elliot the Perry's Crack which seemed to be an experience of near religious awe for him and, upon returning to the base of the route, we saw a static line descending from the heavens. After much conjecture about who or what it may be we decided that we should stop faffing and actually do some rock climbing so I put my harness back on and started up the first pitch.

Pitch one is a pretty cool arete, I found the first three or four bolts of climbing to be quite scary and perhaps a bit dangerous, especially getting to bolts two and three. I got up this without too much trouble though and only a small amount of fear driven hesitation. Elliot came up and we were met by Matt and Jake on the belay. They went up the second pitch of Stiletto and we waited before following them. Pitch two was really fkn hard off the belay, the moves were manageable but it seemed very staunch for 26 and then there was another hard boulder above a ledge at the end which is maybe okay once you have it sussed but felt desperate for us. It had also well and truly started raining by this point for extra engagement points. Pitch three was fucking classic and one of my finer onsighting efforts with no chalk in the rain. I had some healthy encouragement from the peanut gallery as I shook my way through the slab crux a body length above my last bolt. Exciting stuff. Pitch four was wildly good, Elliot put in an absolutely brilliant effort on runout hard steep adventurous terrain. Mega classic! Pitch five saw us experience some difficulties. I couldn't figure out the boulder to turn the lip at the start and so handed the reigns to Elliot. He put in the most valiant effort getting to the very end of the pitch before a cryptic runout section stumped him and after some decent whips he came down.

Whilst we were prepared to rap and walk out if we had to bail, Jake graciously agreed to leave his fixed line in place and so at 7.30pm we did a pretty classic traverse across the face to his rap line and jugged/rope soloed out that, topping out just as it got dark. And thus ended one of the most classic days on rock I have ever had. Approaching a route like this from the ground is surely one of the raddest ways to climb and we should all do shit like this more often!!

A little bit of rain on-route obviously isn’t enough to scare us off - even if it did scare me a little. Stoked to get back out here and do a long route, and super glad I had Mike to rope gun some of those early pitches.

Prefacing this: I LOVED the slabs on jumpmaster… Honestly though, skip the ground-up, and rap in for the top pitches. The 24 is worth every bit of effort, but the first 5 pitches were 1-star at best.

WarmUp

A fun outing. Good rock and nice positions. Interesting techy climbing. The last pitch was the best - don't skip it!! Fell off near the 2nd last draw on the crux pitch 2 after most of the hard stuff - going for a hold that was good but invisible...

So good to be back on some grey limestone slabs! Left the ground at midday, and topped out at sunset. Westerlies tearing through the canyon kept it cold enough to be climbing the crux in puffy and thermals.

Pulled through the cave on the crux pitch thinking I was about to get the onsight… turns out there was one more crux!

As I bum-slid backwards towards the bolt after p2, unable to stand up due to a mix of exhaustion, overheating and pure terror, I may have considered changing my name and moving to a lonely ashram somewhere in search of whatever the opposite of what I had just experienced was...

Apart from that, it was a pretty rad day out, where everything went mostly as planned and I got to do all other pitches clean! Thanks Henry for coming along and swinging leads 🙂

Hot damn, took up eye to eye with the jug. Not sure about the grade of p1,3,4 maybe 20, 22, 21?

10 hours car to car 1 whip, lead them all, hauled them all Was very fun Last rappel is 50m Evolution in bungonia is better still

Almost every pitch on this deserves classic status in its own right. I was hopelessly outclassed on this. Full throttle from the ground.

P1 pulled on the first draw because busting an ankle at the bottom of the route seemed like a poor plan, otherwise clean. P2 yarded through a few moves, some proper hard moves and very sustained. Tried to lead P3 but got shut down at the roof, then on second swung into space and had to jug back up to the rock. P4 possibly soft, points for exposure and committment perhaps? Still a very fun pitch. P5 turns it back on, I was way too cooked for it, excellent movement. P6 is a cool little finish.

Absolutely outstanding route - I need to get stronger and come back for this. Thanks to Damion for pulling through where I couldn't.

Took a nice old whip from the top

Awesome route, with all pitches having exciting and engaging sections. One of the most consistenly interesting multis out this way. Will be back to clean it up, the two crux sections both got me, but it all goes, and well worth it.

Got whip of the day on the second pitch, where I was seconding the traverse - just unclipped a draw when my foot slipped and ended up about 4 m below the next draw - prussiking my way back up

First hard multi, pumped out a move before a reset rest. Unbelievable. Super sick climb though.

Get in quick, while there are still some holds left! Pitch three was a massive battle - felt more like 24.

5pm start after a day at ben trovarto, lucky I brought my head torch haha. Pumpy!!

I didn't expect and wasn't prepared to be rope gun on every pitch, but Angie got stuck on P1, and P2 and P3 were not short person friendly. So seconded the first half of P1 to below the crux, then onsighted the second half after a belay transition and rest. P1 and P2 were super fun, with pleasant movement and not outrageously powerful, but still extremely committing.

P3 started very hard, a bit cryptic and very punchy. Whipped on the first bolt, and sat on the first couple. Would be fun to try it again with a rope above me.

A very enjoyable and successful day out!