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Routes in Southern Tablelands for selected grade

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Showing all 61 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity Crag
14 Open to Public Scrutiny

Several rings to lower off. If you want to access 'Sundeck' clip the lower offs and move past them to double U bolts at the base of 'Piccolo Luna'

Start: Start at inviting looking section of slabbiness.

FA: Garth Miller & Jay Williams, 1992

Sport 20m Mount Alexandra
14 Snooze and You Lose

2m right of 'Parents in Pain'. Look for faint blue rectangle painted at head height.

Up to the closed little corner/seam on surprising holds.

This route shares an anchor with "The Gruffalo".

FA: Garth Miller - Solo, 1991

Sport 24m, 9 Mount Alexandra
14 Selective Cleansing

One for the Kiddies Start just left off the corner, up the blunt arete.

FA: Simon Vaughan, 2012

Sport 10m, 3 Mount Alexandra
14 Bloke Man

FA: Ken McKeon, 2005

Sport 9m, 3 Nerriga
14 Blackboy Back Flip

Mount a small ledge and move up and left to the first bolt. Follows the crack on the righthand side of the arete for the central third, then nice moves out to the right across the face and up to lower offs.

Sport 12m, 3 Bungonia Gorge
14 Modge

Juggy start, crux last move.

Sport 10m, 3 Bungonia Gorge
14 Ding Dong The Pope is Dead

Up crack to break then up the slab on its right side.

FA: rod, 2005

Sport 10m, 3 Nerriga
14 Intro To Slabs

Great little warm up or introduction to slab climbing.

Sport 7m, 3 Penrose Forest
14 - 16 New World Order

The first climb to be put up at the crag. Start: Under roof on right of the wall. Climb up to cave then out left side. Tend right and up to stance and continue up long slab to anchors. Can go direct to first bolt.

Starting beneath the first bolt of NWO, pull off a few bouldery moves to the first bolt. Direct start for NWO.

FA: Rod Wills, 2007

Sport 18m Wingello
14 Twins

Fun trad line up obvious twin cracks

Trad 12m Badgerys Lookout
14 TT

Obvious crack. Right and very close to Bloke Man with shared anchors.

FA: Unknown

Trad 9m Nerriga
14 The best of the Late Shift

Right to left traverse. Start at Bloke man, from second bolt traverse left all the way across the cliff at same height clipping on each route, finish up Nameless Epic.

FA: KM & Cameron Naughton, 16 Oct 2016

Sport 20m, 8 Nerriga
14 Work That Crack

Start in the corner, then on good hand holds to the top.

FA: Adam Rabjohns, 2017

Trad 8m Penrose Forest
14 O

The cracked corner.

FA: Craig Sloss

Trad 10m Mount Alexandra
V0- Magoo

Head up the obvious feature.

FA: David Nott, 2012

Boulder 4m Binalong
14 Formica

Up corner, step around arete and to anchors on slab

FA: V Wills

Trad 9m Wingello
{US} V0- Snail Rail

Sit start on the bottom of the rail moving up, try and use only the rail before moving to the top. Fun if you are waiting for a pad.

FA: Christopher Lean, 2013

Boulder 3m Binalong
14 Skier's Crack

A short but sweet little splitter at the left side of the 14 wall, then follow the ramp and flake to the top. Tree & gear belay.

Obvious from the descent gully, this was surely not missed by earlier climbers, but was never described.

Trad 8m Mt Gibraltar
V0- Bug In My Eye

Sit start and up. Easy.

FA: Ben Davies, 2012

Boulder 3m Binalong
14 Informed Consent

Middle of easy slab.

FA: Kevin van Tilburg, 2000

Sport 9m, 4 Wingello
14 9th's on a rape charge

Left side of easy slab.

Sport 8m, 3 Wingello
14 Onwards

Nice corner 10m R of Suicidal Dreams. Belay at rings on right (belay 2 of The very Easy Route). Done before, thought to be RRD for many years.

Trad 20m Mt Gibraltar
14 Redacted 1

Right side of easy slab.

Original name was identified as being offensive and was changed.

FA: Rod wills, 2009

Sport 9m, 4 Wingello
V0- Nothing For Paddy

Just a warmup, nothing special. Up through easy moves following the crack to the top, do some laps if you feel like it.

FA: David Nott, 2012

Boulder 4m Binalong
{US} V0- Dancing Gums

Up over the slab.

FA: David Nott, 2012

Boulder 4m Binalong
14 Snooze you Loose.

Left hand crack. Nice and easy but take care with the exit.

Trad 14m Belanglo State Forest
{US} V0- Taken For Granite

Up the right side of the slab through easier terrain.

FA: Georgia Marjoribanks, 2012

Boulder 3m Binalong
14 Odyssey

Easiest way up second biggest buttress. Two good pitches. Start: Middle of wall on Odyssey Buttress.

  1. 30m (crux) Up wall heading left to tree.

  2. 15m Layback up.

  3. 18m Left of belay, up blocks.

  4. 18m Up corner to ledge.

  5. 18m Up overhang to op.

FA: A.Langworthy, T.Quinn, C.Thompson & Apr 70

Trad 110m, 5 Wollondilly River Valley
V0- Himmler

Sit start using the rail.

FA: David Nott, 2012

Boulder 3m Binalong
{US} V0- Layhack

Up laybacking the flake with feet to the right then topout.

FA: David Nott, 2012

Boulder 4m Binalong
14 CR

Marked start. An excellent climb up the face left of the bushy corner, with slightly tricky protection. Take care to extend gear at the sheoak just below the top to reduce rope drag.

Trad 45m Bungonia Gorge
V0- Warm Up Laps

Pick one course of bricks each, for you hands and feet and stick to it, doing laps counter clockwise. Pockets mark the edges. No Top.

FA: Cavell Martin, 14 Sep 2023

Boulder 4m Mt Gibraltar
V0- Crack Prac

Sit start, try to only use the slits, top out.

FA: Cavell Martin, 14 Sep 2023

Boulder 4m Mt Gibraltar
14 Wanderlust

One of the better ways up the third buttress. Start: Corner-crack right of third buttress.

  1. 23m Up corner-crack.

  2. 15m Left into corner-crack, up to tree.

  3. 23m (crux) Obvious corner.

  4. 19m Rightish to crack, up to top.

FA: H.Luxford & B.Cameron (alt leads) Jan 82

Trad 80m Wollondilly River Valley
14 F
Unknown 15m Mount Alexandra
14 Wonga Crack

First climb on the crag. Part of first pitch has fallen down. May need re-grading. Start: Obvious crack in middle of wall.

  1. 25m Up to, and around, bulge to top of block.

  2. 10m Corner to ledge.

  3. 15m To tree.

  4. 25m (crux) Obvious crack to ledge.

  5. 15m Up as will to top.

FA: and around, bulge to top of block. 2. 10m Corner to ledge. 3. 15m To tree. 4. 25m (crux) Obvious crack to ledge. 5. 15m Up as will to top. H.Luxford, K.Westren, H.Luxford & Apr 82

Trad 90m, 5 Wollondilly River Valley
{US} V0- Walk the Line

Up through easy territory.

FA: Georgia Marjoribanks, 2012

Boulder 3m Binalong
14 Man of Diamond

Two reasonable slab/wall pitches. Start: Immediately right of Wonga Crack.

  1. 45m Up black wall to piton, slightly left to ledge.

  2. 45m Up Wonga Crack to rising traverse line - across this.

FA: W.Moon & B.Moon Dec 82

Trad 90m Wollondilly River Valley
14 A Token Of My Extreme

the large and disappointingly underexposed off-width on the far right end of the platform. use massive chockstones in the back of the crack for the belay anchors and pro for the leader. rap in from a trad belay above for access

FA: Alek Gough, 26 May

Trad 30m Nerriga
V0- 9 Pin

Sit start on the jug, up and out to top out

Boulder Mt Gibraltar
14 Access Traverse

A fully bolted rising traverse with a fixed rope starting as for Wicket for one bolt then heading left along a series of ledges and slabby chimneys. This route is used to access the various belay stances for routes in the centre of Phantom Menace Wall. The rope in the upper half (beyond Attack of the Clones) is old - treat with massive caution!

Sport 30m Bungonia Gorge
V0- Two Handfuls of Clover

Standing at 'Pinky Flapper', reach up to the pocket, yawn, check the time, pepper your neighbour's lawn with his clover, then trend slightly left through past some big pockets and wish you were living elsewhere.

FA: Ben "Brrrrrrp" Davies, 2012

Boulder 4m Binalong
14 Left Branch

Will be reasonable climb when fully cleaned. Start: Corner left of Silvertail.

  1. 30m Leftish up corner to below tree, then left into smaller corner-crack, to tree.

  2. 35m (crux) Left into crack, to wall, to corner, to slight overhang, to ledge.

  3. 10m Up corner.

FA: H.Luxford & R.Miller Nov 82

Trad 75m, 3 Wollondilly River Valley
14 V0 Alco's Wet Dream pussy variant

A proud line striking upwards seven metres above the ground and over a roughly 10 metre, wretched fall with a good chance of a roll down the hill afterward. There are no bolts on this climb, and the first ascensionist requests you keep it that way. The lower crack will take some natural protection, but peters out at around the four metre mark. You may be able to fiddle something in above the shaky flake. There's a shaky flake, by the way. One crux- the little rooflet. Don't go left or right at the rooflet. As it's the pussy variant, you can use the boulder in front to avoid the beginning boulder problem. Pussy. Easy enough to set up a top-rope. Top out.

FA: David Nott, 2012

Top rope 6m Binalong
14 1

Start at tree on far left of wall. Up past BR. Requires bolt plates for carrots

FA: T Cartwright

Sport 10m Mt Gibraltar
14 Surprise Gully

Two top pitches compensate for the first. Start: In gully hidden behind large clump of trees.

  1. 28m Up left crack to tree, then left.

  2. 38m Corner crack immediately above gully.

  3. 34m Corner crack then as will to top.

FA: R.Miller & H.Luxford (alt leads) Jan 82

Trad 100m, 3 Wollondilly River Valley
14 This Is A Knife

Fun little climb finishing up on some nice juggy holds. Lower off's are set back over the top.

FA: Adam Rabjohns, Mar 2018

Sport 7m, 3 Belanglo State Forest
{US} V0- Worth it? Maybe.

Sit start on the attached flake, lay back using only it then go for the top.

FA: Christopher Lean, 2013

Boulder 2m Binalong
14 Short and Curly

Up crack and then step left on to blocks. Finish at tree.

FA: Matt Tranter & Ryan Hanvey, 2014

Trad 9m Mt Gibraltar
14 Easy Terms

First pitch is quite good. Start: Left side of third buttress.

  1. 25m Up wall and crack.

  2. 25m Past loose rock, then wall and slab. 3 and 4. 40m As for Wanderlust OR abseil off.

FA: W.Moon & B.Cameron Apr 82

Trad 90m, 4 Wollondilly River Valley
14 Tailspin

Flake is superb rock. Start: Corner below obvious flake and tree.

  1. 15m (crux) Up to tree.

  2. 15m Up flake to top.

FA: H.Luxford & B.Cameron Sep 82

Trad 30m, 2 Wollondilly River Valley
14 Footloose

A fair corner and crack. Start: Right side of Isolated Buttress.

  1. 21m (crux) Up to tree.

  2. 19m Crack behind tree.

FA: H.Luxford & R.Taylor (alt leads) Dec 81

Trad 40m, 2 Wollondilly River Valley
VB+ - 2 Nude Golf Karting

Sit down, grab the big rail, walk up the boulder. If you just use the slopers it may even be V2.

FA: Ben Davies, 2013

Boulder 2m Binalong
{US} V0- Creative Bloc

Sit start and up the easy bloc.

FA: Ben Davies, 2013

Boulder 3m Binalong
{US} V0- Billy Bilby's Birthday Belch

Up through easy and juggy holds.

FA: Ben Davies, 2012

Boulder 4m Binalong
{US} V0- One Heel One Slap

Another warmup. Sit start.

FA: Ben Dacies, 2013

Boulder 4m Binalong
14 Dance Of The Butterfly

Enjoyable slab/wall. Start: Thin crack and weakness about 20 metres right of Wonga Crack.

  1. 30m Follow line to tree. Either abseil off OR up as will to top.

FA: H.Luxford, B.Cameron & W.Moon Nov 82

Trad 30m Wollondilly River Valley
{US} V0- Wussburger

Up and head right through big holds onto the ledge then up and over on good holds.

FA: Daniel McGlinchey, 2012

Boulder 5m Binalong
V0- Chicks Don't Fart

Up the easy crack with big jugs to help you out. Hard to fall out of!

FA: David Nott, 2012

Boulder Binalong
{US} V0- Another Walkup

Walk up the side.

FA: Daniel McGlinchey, 2012

Boulder 3m Binalong
{US} V0- To the Loser, Spoils

Sit start.

Boulder 2m Binalong

Showing all 61 routes.

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