Showing all 61 routes.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | Crag | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
14 | ★ Open to Public Scrutiny
Several rings to lower off. If you want to access 'Sundeck' clip the lower offs and move past them to double U bolts at the base of 'Piccolo Luna' Start: Start at inviting looking section of slabbiness. FA: Garth Miller & Jay Williams, 1992 | 20m | Mount Alexandra | ||
14 | ★ Snooze and You Lose
2m right of 'Parents in Pain'. Look for faint blue rectangle painted at head height. Up to the closed little corner/seam on surprising holds. This route shares an anchor with "The Gruffalo". FA: Garth Miller - Solo, 1991 | 24m, 9 | Mount Alexandra | ||
14 | ★ Selective Cleansing
One for the Kiddies FA: Simon Vaughan, 2012 | 10m, 3 | Mount Alexandra | ||
14 | ★ Bloke Man
FA: Ken McKeon, 2005 | 9m, 3 | Nerriga | ||
14 | ★ Blackboy Back Flip
Mount a small ledge and move up and left to the first bolt. Follows the crack on the righthand side of the arete for the central third, then nice moves out to the right across the face and up to lower offs. | 12m, 3 | Bungonia Gorge | ||
14 | ★ Modge
Juggy start, crux last move. FA: Simon Vaughan | 10m, 3 | Bungonia Gorge | ||
14 | Ding Dong The Pope is Dead
Up crack to break then up the slab on its right side. FA: rod, 2005 | 10m, 3 | Nerriga | ||
14 | ★ Intro To Slabs
Great little warm up or introduction to slab climbing. FA: Adam Rabjohns | 7m, 3 | Penrose Forest | ||
14 - 16 | ★ New World Order
The first climb to be put up at the crag. Start: Under roof on right of the wall. Climb up to cave then out left side. Tend right and up to stance and continue up long slab to anchors. Can go direct to first bolt. Starting beneath the first bolt of NWO, pull off a few bouldery moves to the first bolt. Direct start for NWO. FA: Rod Wills, 2007 | 18m | Wingello | ||
14 | ★ Twins
Fun trad line up obvious twin cracks | 12m | Badgerys Lookout | ||
14 | ★ TT
Obvious crack. Right and very close to Bloke Man with shared anchors. FA: Unknown | 9m | Nerriga | ||
14 | ★ The best of the Late Shift
Right to left traverse. Start at Bloke man, from second bolt traverse left all the way across the cliff at same height clipping on each route, finish up Nameless Epic. FA: KM & Cameron Naughton, 16 Oct 2016 | 20m, 8 | Nerriga | ||
14 | ★★ Work That Crack
Start in the corner, then on good hand holds to the top. FA: Adam Rabjohns, 2017 | 8m | Penrose Forest | ||
14 | ★ O
The cracked corner. FA: Craig Sloss | 10m | Mount Alexandra | ||
V0- | Magoo
Head up the obvious feature. FA: David Nott, 2012 | 4m | Binalong | ||
14 | Formica
Up corner, step around arete and to anchors on slab FA: V Wills | 9m | Wingello | ||
{US} V0- | ★ Snail Rail
Sit start on the bottom of the rail moving up, try and use only the rail before moving to the top. Fun if you are waiting for a pad. FA: Christopher Lean, 2013 | 3m | Binalong | ||
14 | Skier's Crack
A short but sweet little splitter at the left side of the 14 wall, then follow the ramp and flake to the top. Tree & gear belay. Obvious from the descent gully, this was surely not missed by earlier climbers, but was never described. | 8m | Mt Gibraltar | ||
V0- | Bug In My Eye
Sit start and up. Easy. FA: Ben Davies, 2012 | 3m | Binalong | ||
14 | Informed Consent
Middle of easy slab. FA: Kevin van Tilburg, 2000 | 9m, 4 | Wingello | ||
14 | 9th's on a rape charge
Left side of easy slab. | 8m, 3 | Wingello | ||
14 | ★ Onwards
Nice corner 10m R of Suicidal Dreams. Belay at rings on right (belay 2 of The very Easy Route). Done before, thought to be RRD for many years. | 20m | Mt Gibraltar | ||
14 | Redacted 1
Right side of easy slab. Original name was identified as being offensive and was changed. FA: Rod wills, 2009 | 9m, 4 | Wingello | ||
V0- | Nothing For Paddy
Just a warmup, nothing special. Up through easy moves following the crack to the top, do some laps if you feel like it. FA: David Nott, 2012 | 4m | Binalong | ||
{US} V0- | Dancing Gums
Up over the slab. FA: David Nott, 2012 | 4m | Binalong | ||
14 | Snooze you Loose.
Left hand crack. Nice and easy but take care with the exit. FA: Matt Tranter | 14m | Belanglo State Forest | ||
{US} V0- | Taken For Granite
Up the right side of the slab through easier terrain. FA: Georgia Marjoribanks, 2012 | 3m | Binalong | ||
14 | Odyssey
Easiest way up second biggest buttress. Two good pitches. Start: Middle of wall on Odyssey Buttress.
FA: A.Langworthy, T.Quinn, C.Thompson & Apr 70 | 110m, 5 | Wollondilly River Valley | ||
V0- | ★ Himmler
Sit start using the rail. FA: David Nott, 2012 | 3m | Binalong | ||
{US} V0- | Layhack
Up laybacking the flake with feet to the right then topout. FA: David Nott, 2012 | 4m | Binalong | ||
14 | ★★ CR
Marked start. An excellent climb up the face left of the bushy corner, with slightly tricky protection. Take care to extend gear at the sheoak just below the top to reduce rope drag. | 45m | Bungonia Gorge | ||
V0- | ★ Warm Up Laps
Pick one course of bricks each, for you hands and feet and stick to it, doing laps counter clockwise. Pockets mark the edges. No Top. FA: Cavell Martin, 14 Sep 2023 | 4m | Mt Gibraltar | ||
V0- | Crack Prac
Sit start, try to only use the slits, top out. FA: Cavell Martin, 14 Sep 2023 | 4m | Mt Gibraltar | ||
14 | Wanderlust
One of the better ways up the third buttress. Start: Corner-crack right of third buttress.
FA: H.Luxford & B.Cameron (alt leads) Jan 82 | 80m | Wollondilly River Valley | ||
14 | F
| 15m | Mount Alexandra | ||
14 | Wonga Crack
First climb on the crag. Part of first pitch has fallen down. May need re-grading. Start: Obvious crack in middle of wall.
FA: and around, bulge to top of block. 2. 10m Corner to ledge. 3. 15m To tree. 4. 25m (crux) Obvious crack to ledge. 5. 15m Up as will to top. H.Luxford, K.Westren, H.Luxford & Apr 82 | 90m, 5 | Wollondilly River Valley | ||
{US} V0- | Walk the Line
Up through easy territory. FA: Georgia Marjoribanks, 2012 | 3m | Binalong | ||
14 | Man of Diamond
Two reasonable slab/wall pitches. Start: Immediately right of Wonga Crack.
FA: W.Moon & B.Moon Dec 82 | 90m | Wollondilly River Valley | ||
14 | A Token Of My Extreme
the large and disappointingly underexposed off-width on the far right end of the platform. use massive chockstones in the back of the crack for the belay anchors and pro for the leader. rap in from a trad belay above for access FA: Alek Gough, 26 May | 30m | Nerriga | ||
V0- | 9 Pin
Sit start on the jug, up and out to top out FA: Cavell Martin | Mt Gibraltar | |||
14 | Access Traverse
A fully bolted rising traverse with a fixed rope starting as for Wicket for one bolt then heading left along a series of ledges and slabby chimneys. This route is used to access the various belay stances for routes in the centre of Phantom Menace Wall. The rope in the upper half (beyond Attack of the Clones) is old - treat with massive caution! | 30m | Bungonia Gorge | ||
V0- | Two Handfuls of Clover
Standing at 'Pinky Flapper', reach up to the pocket, yawn, check the time, pepper your neighbour's lawn with his clover, then trend slightly left through past some big pockets and wish you were living elsewhere. FA: Ben "Brrrrrrp" Davies, 2012 | 4m | Binalong | ||
14 | Left Branch
Will be reasonable climb when fully cleaned. Start: Corner left of Silvertail.
FA: H.Luxford & R.Miller Nov 82 | 75m, 3 | Wollondilly River Valley | ||
14 V0 | Alco's Wet Dream pussy variant
A proud line striking upwards seven metres above the ground and over a roughly 10 metre, wretched fall with a good chance of a roll down the hill afterward. There are no bolts on this climb, and the first ascensionist requests you keep it that way. The lower crack will take some natural protection, but peters out at around the four metre mark. You may be able to fiddle something in above the shaky flake. There's a shaky flake, by the way. One crux- the little rooflet. Don't go left or right at the rooflet. As it's the pussy variant, you can use the boulder in front to avoid the beginning boulder problem. Pussy. Easy enough to set up a top-rope. Top out. FA: David Nott, 2012 | 6m | Binalong | ||
14 | 1
Start at tree on far left of wall. Up past BR. Requires bolt plates for carrots FA: T Cartwright | 10m | Mt Gibraltar | ||
14 | Surprise Gully
Two top pitches compensate for the first. Start: In gully hidden behind large clump of trees.
FA: R.Miller & H.Luxford (alt leads) Jan 82 | 100m, 3 | Wollondilly River Valley | ||
14 | ★ This Is A Knife
Fun little climb finishing up on some nice juggy holds. Lower off's are set back over the top. FA: Adam Rabjohns, Mar 2018 | 7m, 3 | Belanglo State Forest | ||
{US} V0- | Worth it? Maybe.
Sit start on the attached flake, lay back using only it then go for the top. FA: Christopher Lean, 2013 | 2m | Binalong | ||
14 | Short and Curly
Up crack and then step left on to blocks. Finish at tree. FA: Matt Tranter & Ryan Hanvey, 2014 | 9m | Mt Gibraltar | ||
14 | Easy Terms
First pitch is quite good. Start: Left side of third buttress.
FA: W.Moon & B.Cameron Apr 82 | 90m, 4 | Wollondilly River Valley | ||
14 | Tailspin
Flake is superb rock. Start: Corner below obvious flake and tree.
FA: H.Luxford & B.Cameron Sep 82 | 30m, 2 | Wollondilly River Valley | ||
14 | Footloose
A fair corner and crack. Start: Right side of Isolated Buttress.
FA: H.Luxford & R.Taylor (alt leads) Dec 81 | 40m, 2 | Wollondilly River Valley | ||
VB+ - 2 | Nude Golf Karting
Sit down, grab the big rail, walk up the boulder. If you just use the slopers it may even be V2. FA: Ben Davies, 2013 | 2m | Binalong | ||
{US} V0- | Creative Bloc
Sit start and up the easy bloc. FA: Ben Davies, 2013 | 3m | Binalong | ||
{US} V0- | Billy Bilby's Birthday Belch
Up through easy and juggy holds. FA: Ben Davies, 2012 | 4m | Binalong | ||
{US} V0- | One Heel One Slap
Another warmup. Sit start. FA: Ben Dacies, 2013 | 4m | Binalong | ||
14 | ★★ Dance Of The Butterfly
Enjoyable slab/wall. Start: Thin crack and weakness about 20 metres right of Wonga Crack.
FA: H.Luxford, B.Cameron & W.Moon Nov 82 | 30m | Wollondilly River Valley | ||
{US} V0- | Wussburger
Up and head right through big holds onto the ledge then up and over on good holds. FA: Daniel McGlinchey, 2012 | 5m | Binalong | ||
V0- | Chicks Don't Fart
Up the easy crack with big jugs to help you out. Hard to fall out of! FA: David Nott, 2012 | Binalong | |||
{US} V0- | Another Walkup
Walk up the side. FA: Daniel McGlinchey, 2012 | 3m | Binalong | ||
{US} V0- | To the Loser, Spoils
Sit start. | 2m | Binalong |
Showing all 61 routes.