Routes in North Shore

Up the slab then dyno to the higher hidden sidepull

Unique and fun feature climbing. Start matched on good rail under layback crack. Move up the layback then transition to the other size, via some tricky moves. walk off to right side.

This is the route that starts at V0 "What am I doing here?" - 4 U-Bolts + Anchors.

Originally climbed back when the pyramids were being constructed. Now on some more friendly bolts. Start up the boulder problem 6, then do another boulder problem, followed by a dyno and another 2 boulder problems to get to the anchor. The grade is an absolute guess, and the real name and first ascensionist is a mystery. (does anyone know?)

Link Riders of Rohan into the Nudist extension finish. Reasonably classic and good pumping fun.

Start: 2m L 'Grannies From Hell'

Up arete. Chain lower offs

Carrot retro bolt 2016, need replacing

Line up right side of slab. Start over ankle breaking rock up faint groove to join edges that increase in size with height.

Technical smearing, padding and slabbing at its best. Very sequency with every move harder than previous.

Start up from the sloping rail and move quickly to the chalked jug. A series of big moves through increasingly bad slopers brings you to the roof. Even bigger moves to more friendly holds on the lip and swing on through to the anchors of the Nudist Route. 2 FHs followed by 2RBs to the anchor. Grade in the realm of 25. Stick-clipping the first bolt strongly recommended.

Start up the nudist. When you get to the anchors throw for a big move right around the mossy face then follow the lip of the roof for another 5m on a sightseeing tour of bygone bolts (clip the fresh ones though). Finishes at chains, second or back-jump to clean.

A great little climb in the backyard of the North Shore!

Start: Marked "24 Thunderbird". The first climb you reach after the walk down on the far left of the crag.

Over chossy undercut onto balancy, slabby face (1 carrot, 1 FH) up to old blue sling on RB. Out to lip of roof 1 carrot and 1 fixed hanger. Then go diagonally through roof passing 2 ring bolts. Ignore previous route info this is how the route is done.

Start: Up centre of yellow wall.

The BRs on this climb are well past their best.

Start: 4m L of EOL. Up, directly through roof to big 'pillow' hold. Chain lower off set back on left. Rebolted.

Initialled, further down track. Up past BR on orange rock.

Stand start on the slopey ledge. Pop to top and mantle.

Stand start on the big flat undercling. Dyno from here to the jug up top,

From two reasonable slopers, move powerfully right and into the roof, then pull hard for the top.

Start under the small rooflet on the main cliff, move right to some positive and curvy edges, then up. Halfway through the mantle the name should become apparent.

The blunt overhanging arete, using sidepulls. Hard moves at the top.

Up the slab then dyno over to the hidden jug.

In the middle of the overhang, behind the tree there is some big juggy holds.

The slanting crack, using edges at the top. Highish. Can be dirt and have things growing in it if it has be untouched for a while. Pretty good when clean if you like this sort of thing.

Climb the arete on the left, using the break. Slopey at the top. Alternatively move onto the break and finish going straight up from this.

Start in the big, pockety breaks beneath a right facing corner/seam. Use this feature to move up left on slopey edges. Slab on up to the top. This is an excellent problem.

The left side of this slab. Harder than it looks but really good. Finishes abit left at the top.

Climb up the middle of the slab. This time using a pocket and staying left of the seam at the top.

Start at a thin slot. Climb to a shallow pocket in the horizontal seam. Stay right of the vertical seam at the top. Tenuous but fun.

Sitting in last good hold in cave beneath stairs. Move up obvious arete and mantle the sloping top.

An excellent slab on nice rock. Use the right facing feature and some face holds to climb up to a slopey but good top.

The splendid looking arete, which isn't as good as it looks. Start on the ledge and thrutch on up the arete. Finish right as per the next problem.

Starting at the top of the stairs, traverse right to the nose and top out.

Start left hand next to your foot and right on diagonal palm. Stand and traverse to high crimps and top out above.

Top gets pretty dirty and can be covered in moss. Bring a big brush.

Start in the jug rail on the walking track side of the boulder. Traverse to the left and head up the arete; big slap move to sloper and top out to the left. Make sure you are a competent swimmer or have a swimming instructor with you who is trained in rescue...

Seated start under arete of ‘down climb.’ Right hand sloper, right toe hook, left hand small edge. Up arete via big slopey pinch. May be v5?

Right in the middle of the face to the right of 'Serpents Touch'. Semi-standing start using the left hand sloper and the right hand vertical ridge/pinch. Fly straight up the face, staying in your lane. (The sit start is still v4 but more desperate.)

Start left pinch and right sidepull on the face to the right of The Breach. climb the face over the top. Arete is in for hands only.

Delicately up the pillar/slab.

Start on good hold just left of arete and traverse via big jug and two high pockets all the way to the grey band. Monos help to make the reaches.

From the low rail move left into base over apex and top out on the left half the peak. Chris Beers

Sit start in the pockets then up. Desperate mantle.

Start on the ledge and move up on good holds to a committing mantle straight up. Avoid the often gecko filled hole.

Start in the higher of the two breaks on the left of the wall. Do a big move right to a big, frictiony, pocket. Climb up to very small, sharpish edge on the arete and on to the top. An excellent problem.

Start on the arete formed by the wall and the scoop of the little cave. Use the crozzly pockets and edges to get to the break. Hard moves getting to the top. Take care with the landing on this super fun problem.

Straight up from the shared start with 'Terranium'. Funky.

Climb the slab with out the arete, utilising the big hold under the little rooflet. An excellent slab climbing experience with a little spice at the top.

The bottom holds look a little dodgy, but are still there. Climb the overlap/rib, finishing left of the tree. Don't use the tree. An excellent problem.

A couple metres to the right of of the down ramp is a break. Start here, get your feet on the slopey shelf. Go straight up using a funky pockety thing and good holds on the next shelf. This problem climbs better than it looks.

Start on the big protruding features and traverse right using a pocket. Mantle right onto the slopers.

Straight out the roof and mantle right of the broken slopers.

From Bing's starting edge, move right then up the juggy line to the top. Highball but easy exit.

Start on the right-facing layback flake and move right and up. Follow the line of The King to the mantle finish.

Starting on huge pocket jugs on the lip approx 3m right of ITSFMC, traverse the wall rightwards finishing on the holds above Mikes Five. 'Excellent'

Start matched on undercut approx 2m right of John and move up to a good jug. Phillip Booth | Peter

L6, R7, L8, L9, R10, M10 From big flat edge, use a good right hand hold and do a big move to the top. Get a swing going.

Link the start of 'Nic' into the end of 'The Edge Ladder'.

🚫 Originally done as a 'no heels' problem.

Phillip Booth

Start as for 'Nic' and traverse into the start of 'The Edge Ladder' and finish as for The Edge Ladder. Heel hooks are allowed.

Phillip Booth

L1, R2, R3, L4, R5, M5

Historical.

Line no longer exists after damage to key holds shared with 'The Edge Ladder' in 2007.

Historical.

Line no longer exists after damage to key holds shared with 'The Edge Ladder' in 2007.

Variant to Go Granny Go - put your feet out over right and spoil all the fun

Eliminate, but quite fun. Same as Moustaffa but instead of grabbing the ear with your right hand reach a little higher and use a pinch (the ear is off).

No toes above the head or any other shennanigans, Domo Arigato.

Start in the couple of pockets in the roof, explode out for the slope lip, up the prow and then continue on to finish - one of Sissy's highest problems. Classic!

From the Start jug of WAIDH, drop down onto the slopers and traverse right to the start holds of JOF. Reach up to the slopey pinch and then to the highest obvious finish hold directly above that. Alternatively, finish up JOF, but without an extra gold star for your refrigerator.

Start as for Bubbles Sit Start and traverse to the right along the slopers to finish on last hold of Bill Smith.

One move wonder Start on dentalectomy undercling and dyno abound bulge to finish hold of solution of 1993

M1, L2, M2, L3, M3, L4, R5, M5. A classic. Harder for shorties.

Worthwhile subtle variations at similar grade include (i) M1, L2, M2, L3, M3, L5, M5, and (ii) M1, L2, M2, L3, then LH to jug 50cm right of 5, and match.

Phillip Booth

Same as the 'Blame' trio but you start one hold lower matched on the undercling and can you use your feet.

M6, R7, M7, R8, L9, M9.

Phillip Booth

M1, L2, R3, L4, M4

Kneebar/heel helps.

Sit Start on the polished jugs on the lip and move up and slightly right to finish matched in the break.

Phillip Booth

Start on the far left rail and traverse all the way to the chin-up bar. Finishing with both hands matched.

Low traverse, starting at Nasty and following jugs right to finish on Sushi Train's starting jug

Start using the large pocket then head upwards.

The most aesthetic line in Queen's Country. Straight up using the amazing natural scoop and pocket.

Sit start at 'A Wild Problem Appears!' and traverse along the pockets to finish up 'Goanna Arete'.

Starting on the obvious rail, slap your way up into the small dish, then move up and out left into the slots. After a reachy move to the high jug, finish out left as for Splitting The Bible. Bring crackers for celebration.

Sit start 1m left of Guide By His Hands using pocket in the orange streak. Move straight up to the top out

Start as for GBHH and traverse the whole lip exiting at the tree. Enjoy the stopper move. Wait till you find it.

Start on obvious slot with feet splayed under on the wall. Move up face and to the right, using the obscured jug on the top right to top out.

Funky heelhook start, power to huge jug then either use obvious crimpers on the face or huge throw to good hold at the top of the face. Top out to the left.

Starts just right of "Our Father Who Art A Boulderer" under the white vertical streak

Pull on using sharp crimps and establish yourself on the good horizontal edge on the left. Reach for the small dish with your right and then go again with the right for the two finger pocket. Go with the left for the shallow depression next to the pocket. Get your feet up and fire up and right for the sinker edge at the base of the V on the lip.

A bit conditions dependent

Get established using the crimps then reach up and left for a poor sloper in the obvious horizontal scoop. Build feet and then pop up and right for the hard to spot edge. Finishing jugs are then in range

A stout test of dedication and focus.

Start the same as for SS with a hand on the left arete. Move up and to the left, traversing around the rounded corner.

From here the fun starts. Use the sharp crimpers and make your way to the end of the face.

Top out using the crack while keeping your feet on that face. The rock to your right that holds 'WIW' and 'ISS' is out of bounds for hand or foot!

Pumped by the end?

Power, reach and commitment!

Sit start just right of the rounded arete on some angled ledges. Head up to the two good pockets mid way up the way. Get your feet high and power up to thy mighty right hand slap into the rounded scoop! Hold fast, trust it and topout!

This problem loves the long but extra points for the short who conquer it.

A Challenging arete with a contrived slap in the middle. You have to feel faith in your palm to send this one

Start hugging the arete using the holds 30cm either side of it. Set up onto the rock below and move up, crimping and slapping till you get above the slap to a decent hold on the right face of the arete Top out to the right keeping close to the arete

The first V4 of the crag. Start on the right arête using the crimpers to get on the problem. With your right hand hugging the rounded arête make your way up and top out to the left. This is a stand start.

Sit start same as SHI . Power straight up and topout to the left using some interesting holds and a good thick shake full of balance