Routes in Northern Beaches

Thin slab to juggy overhang.

Great climbing, wanders a bit. Reachy. 1m left of the seam in the middle of the wall. 4 BR's to DRB lower off.

Start as for B. Steeply up to roof, then out roof to chain lower off in break (Chain lower off is safe and in good condition but poorly set up.) Or continue up Unfair Dismissal

3m R of Lunatic. Follow the slab up and over a small roof finishing up obvious flake and R edge of blunt arete.

Excellent climb with interesting moves. Follow the right arcing line. Originally graded 19, but a few people have suggested that it is a little bit easier than that.

2m left of E.

Up the thrutchy bum crack, then either up the well protected headwall (BR), or pleasantly left up groove to top (BR on left protects top out). Double RB belay.

Protection: Cams: BD #.4, #.5, #.75 x 2, #1, #2, 1 carrot

Anchors: ring bolts with shackles

Great fun!! Straight up to ledge then jug up over easy lip and blast straight up.

Start: Right end of the cliff, left of crack. Obvious. Either rap from anchor at the back of the ledge, lower from base of Arete on R (Hectic Penguins). Should continue up Hectic Penguins for the full line.

Nice warm up, 3 U's and a lower-off

Start: 8m right again or 10m left of track. Initialled.

A real adventure, one of the best 23's in Sydney. Starts up undercling, traverse left up into the cave, then up left of cave to anchors.Back jump to fixed biners to clean.

Starts in obvious corner. Straight up slightly overhung past a single BR, then directly up past 3 FHs right to lower off. Corner can be slippery when wet

Fun start then up to engaging headwall and anchors on top of broken cliff.The best climb on this wall.

Easy climbing on big holds, very fun on great rock.

Stand start on big undercling on the far left of the roof. Climb rightward to top out on the nice sidepull feature. Tsz Ying Yau

A classic steep slab-climb.

Start: 1m left of 'Arachibutyrophobia'

Great climbing! Crux to start (BR), then sustained climbing (BR) to ledge (cams recommended here). Continue up pleasant headwall (2 BRs) to belay as for CoD.

Test your dance moves, up slab and then right on roof to main head wall.

Cool moves on great rock.Hardish start , funky traverse to jugs and anchors in roof.The best easy climb on this wall.

Traverse right to left as for Cruel Sea into the heuco, but then cut out the crux sequence by going straight towards the topout as for Dead Calm. Stay low all the way with the "upper V5 Lip" being out.

Kiu Hei Chu | Phillip Booth | Darien Winarso (No cut beta)

Start at short flake right of where the track meets the base of the huge block.

Up flake (good cam in pocket on right) to ledge. Up the lovely sustained slab above (3 good BRs). Double RB belay / rap anchor. Traversing left at the top only scores you a 14!

Protection:

Cams: BD #1 (red), BD #.5 (purple)

Carrots: 3

Anchors: Good ledge with ring bolts plus shackles.

Straight up on good holds, great fun!

4m Right of 'A'. Start as for 'Trickles' to first RB then continue straight through crimpy features past 2 more RBs. Up onto final ledge and onto headwall.

Easy if you're tall. Start is marked TST. Up corner to ring (shared with Kicks) then left across scoop (crux) and up to lower off.

On top of elevated block, in front of the vertical crack. An excellent route for beginners.

Step across onto the wall and right to BR. Head straight up the wall (small cam and BR) to rounded top out. Double RB belay / rap station.

Marked. 2m left of CB (just left of tree).

Pleasantly sustained. 3 BRs and optional cam near top. Double BB belay.

Start at the right side V5 and straight up. Heel hooked and feet off the adjacent rock for the full grade. Good warm up for the V4.

One of the best routes in Sydney!Are you ready to get your tilt on? New bolts (1994). Start, up log (as for SSS) then rightwards (put sling through 2nd bolt to avoid leverage on biner) and through roof

1m right of TST. Up the wall past ring (shared with TST) then right and up. Originally graded 20 with no bolts, someone bolted a 'new' route 30cm right of the original line!

Up and heading slightly right, up and over to overhang and roof top.

Start: 1m left of 'Liquid Insanity'. Steep wall past 2 BRs to ledge, then crack / corner to break. Step right to double RB belay, or (recommended) finish directly over block (BR to double BB belay).

2m R of CM. Up overhanging nose to lower offs.

Mantle your way onto ledge, then easy climbing to the top.

Classic line. Traverse the lip of the overhang on the north side of the southern boulder. Sit start on the sand on the left, sit finish (!) on the grass up on the right. Plenty of jugs, do it any way you want. V3 without using feet on the wall.

Start is marked ITV. Up past 4 carrots. Shares first ring with Frantic.

Delicate start to tough overhang mantle. from ledge walk right finding large hidden jug side-pull(for shorties you can equip draw from this hold and clip). Positive crimp rail on right side of arete above bolt, then airy traverse back onto main face.Easy mantle to chain anchors on top of cliff.

1m left of NYACS, below obvious crack in centre of wall.

Steeply up crack to traverse line. Step left (crux) then follow crack up to headwall slab (BR). Double BB belay.

Protection: - 1 carrot - Cams: BD #.3 (doubles), #.5 (doubles), #2

Anchors: 2 carrots (too close to the edge) 2 trees about 2 meters back from edge

Up crack to ledge, then up easy jugfest to small overhang jugs.

Mantel start 1.5m R of Dunning Kruger Wall and right to seam.

A true heist with only the correct beta can you unlock this climb, thin start to funky crux. Anchors in roof.

Straight up wet start using dry holds to break then boulder problem and pump fest on awesome rock with permadraw anchors. Back jump to clean.

STart in small orange groove 6m L of Ready Set Go, 15m L of Flack, and 30m L of where the track hits the cliff. Hard move to start then up arete.

Start as for Iron Chef then head right after the fixed hanger. Shares first ring with Into the Void.

Start: 2m left of Two Steps Forward. Start with your back to the tree. Straight up past 3 BRs, then small cams (0.4 and 0.75/1 Camalot) in breaks to a Double BB.

Where Ikon should have gone.

Start: As for Ikon, middle of black slab, left of K. Straight up past 2 BRs and RB. Double BB belay.

Nice easy wall, start just right of crack (TPI).

Start 28m left of the track. Through bulge and up, originally done solo with a long-gone tree for aid but now clipping bolts through the bulge

Classic slab with balancey finish. Take a double set of cams and some slings (as there are a few placements in the same break) and a thin finger sized cam for the top. Up slight ramp to Ubolt, then hole, then carrot. Up wall past cams to DRB lower off situated 4 meters back on the next face (caution with drag), avoid the tree anchor as it causes wear.

As for Technorabble, but avoids the crux by moving right, you can clip the 4th bolt from the jugs, then up and traverse L to 5th bolt and up.

Start at under cling slab up and trending left as the lip does until you reach the roof.Back jump to fixed biners to clean.

Aleksandra Balyanova

5m left of LLL.

Sustained, thin and steep climbing up good looking orange wall. 3 RBs to double BB belay.

A prominent rounded boulder sits atop the rock platform above and 15m to the right of PWCB. The climb is marked.

Atmospheric. Good moves up steep, sandy pockets. 2 RBs to double RB lower off.

Same as 'Right to Left' but topout as 'Dead calm' / 'Aquarius' instead of finishing on the starting hold of the V4

Exposed roof swinging on good jugs. Start in orange rock 15m R of Areeba. Right side of cave and traverse L along lip. Easiest to lean right and set up lower off from rings on top of right-hand route (Jeff's Wall)

A great warm up route. Great climbing on Good holds, over hang to sting in the tail.

Start: As for Apyla but straight up (rebolted 2018).

Narrow arete / wall between BTDT and O. Good sustained climbing past 3 BRs to double RB lower off. Mid size cam recommended between 1st and 2nd BRs. Slow to dry after rain.

Straight up and head right after first RB following the lip past two more RBs and crux mantling onto ledge. Finish as for 'Quick Fang Down the Parkway'

2m left of M.

3 BRs to double RB belay which is 80cm back from the edge.

Great line climbing through some of the best features of the Orange Wall, with loads of good holds on great rock! Up the lower ledge, up passing the "hueco" into to a balancy move to the anchors.

As for J.

Step onto wall and follow crack (micro cams) until it finishes. Up wall past BR to belay as for J

2m left of M at seam.

Wall and Crack trend left, though do not go further left, rather stay straight. Sparse pro. takes three cams and a nut. Double RB belay which is 1m back from the edge.

Easy looking wall 10m L of where the track hits the cliff. Start behind a nice block for sunbathing.

2m left of ET.

Fingery to crack, up, then corner / chimney. Belay as for ET.

2m left of JD.

4 BRs and cams up excellent, sustained, steep wall. Double BB belay.

Far right cave problem. Can be done in a number of different ways including a crazy dyno that could potentially send you rolling down to a rocky but somewhat refreshing swim in the ocean.

Mattias Braach-Maksvytis | Oliver Chen

Up to the flake and layback which makes up the left side of the window.

Start: Left side of east face of north boulder

Stand Start on big undergoing on the far LHS of the roof. Climb straight up through juggy pockets and a high pinch. Don't underestimate the topout or the terrible landing.

For the following routes, descend by either rapping off the double RBs above Abseil Wall, or by walking down 10m left of Ikon.

2m left of CnU.

Thin start up crack then trend right and up stylish arete. 2 BRs and cams to double BB belay.

Protection: - 2 carrots - Cams: BD #.1 (marginal), #.3 (doubles), #2 Anchors: Ring bolts on top with nice view.

Style up the insanely juggy arete. Heaps of fun! Yes, the rock is solid.

Start: North-east arete of south boulder

Chimney left of CPoM. Up (slung chockstone, wires, friends) to double RB lower off on CPoM.

East side of the South Boulder.

Some nice pockets on the white streak. Straight up

Fun wall, start as for Airtime Traverse and straight up

Marked. 2m left of SB. BR, runout to break (cam) then up over bulge (BR) to BB and RB belay

Start Matched on the lower far right jug at the lip of the roof. The separated wall on the right is off.

Traverse using holds on the face above the roof in the reverse direction to the V4 ('Right to left').

Finish matched on the starting jug of the V4.

Phillip Booth

STart as for Bloggs Eliminate and step left after start.

A great Eliminate. Traverse from right to left using holds in the roof and on the actual lip only . Once you've dropped down to the hueco keep heading left to top out via the short wall on the far LHS of the cave as for DISW. The early topout directly from the Hueco is Aquarius V6.

Mauricio Chino

Fun eliminate. Start as for Cruel Sea and Aquarius using just the lip holds, then go straight up to the crimp and top out right.

Another Technical start to a thin top section, stick clip the start if unsure.

Wall right of Relax etc. Start in corner and out right, hard rock-over. lean left to clip anchors.

Just left of AS.

Stays on the vertical wall between the AS slab and the offwidth of F. DBB

Up past the natural thread.

Crumbly flakes to small crimps and a steep finish up and left.

It was named Sweatheart because it was done on one a crazily humid day.

One of sydney's best climbs. A must do!!!

Now that the lookout has moved you are pretty safe from official eyes. Take your gear and rope down the evil fisherman's descent and no-one will notice.

The rock isn't fantastic and the most of the bolts are pretty dodgy (actually, all the useful ones have been replaced with stainless), but this adds to the ambience. The roof traverse on pitch two is amazing and offers ample reward for getting off the belay ledge (the crux).

Take a normal rack of draws + bolt plates. A single set of cams (up to BD 4) and a set of wires might ease the mind (as well as offering better protection than some of the bolts). Trad belay required (cams useful) at top of pitch 2.

Start: Start on first ledge above the rocks and scrub at the base of the cliff. From the sea, climb up the first ladder on the fishermans descent and walk left about 30m (or don't descend all the way down). The climb starts just across the 'nasty step-across', below the obviuous line of bolts and the massive roof up high.

1. 20m (17) Move up and R over ledge past bolts, up corner (part of The Bolt Ladde)r then left to obvious V corner. 'Grovel' up this and then traverse left to belay ledge (2 BR - at least one of which is newish).

2. 20m (17) A very hard mantle/high reachy move off the belay ledge (the 1st move is really 19, many seconds fall from here. Make sure have and can use prusic knots) leads to pleasant, steep climbing. Traverse out through the massive roof on good jugs to the final headwall. Beware of the final mantle. 2 BB over top has been chopped—trad belay now required.

South West edge of the Northern Boulder

Sit start on the southern edge. Mantle the Ledge and then up!

Start on the deep pockets following the orange wall till you hit the roof.

One of the best 21’s in Sydney! Up over mantle, into corner, traverse left on face and then traverse back right to exciting finish! Mega!

Just left of PPW, on right side of chossy cave.

Deliberately contrived start: do it. Up arete to lip of roof. Traverse left past RB then crank straight up past BRs and cams. Belay as for PPW.

Old school start which can feel much harder if not done right, if unsure stick clip the first bolt.

21, every move! Wall left of PL/LD. Either boulder start on pockets , or easier (19?) bridge up corner to break.

Nice climbing, need to stay close to the Ubolts for the full grade. Climb up 4m R of Common Origin and 1m L of crack (TPI) to lower off above ledge.

Marked. 2m left of CO.

Bouldery start past BR, then more easily up wall (cams and BR). Grade 14 and no stars if you traverse in from HO

Protection: - 2 carrots - Cams: BD #3, #1, #.75, #.4, #.3

Anchors: Continue up the diagonal crack in the block on top of the main wall, ring bolts on the top.

2m left of SS.

Good, sustained, thin climbing up a balancy wall. Cams and 3 BRs to double BB belay.

Right hand side of cave lie down position, a few big moves on crimps to a highball mantle straight up face.

4m left of AW.

Straight up wall (cams and BR). Double RB belay. Fun; good protection.

This shares the same start up and around the roof as Slap & Tickle, including campussing up on 'unique' holds. Then head straight up the mega yellow streak with fortitude. The original guide said something like 'a full grade harder than S+T', so it's probably 25. Note with interest the orignal grades of these were 21 & 23! An extra bolt was added to the headwall in 2018. One of the finest routes at Narrabeen steeps.

(The fear of peanut butter sticking to the roof of your mouth).

Start: 1m left of 'Crack of Dawn'

Straight up past BR, staying left of CoD. From ledge head up left face of groove, between arete and crack (BR shared with CoD). Belay as for CoD.

Up slab to overhang, straight up through hard terrain with some long moves to a pumpy finish in the roof!

Blast straight up the guts on slopers to gain access to the top crux of Wake Up Time To Fly.

Gabriele G

2m left of WTT, below nasty looking overhanging crack.

Looks awful but is surprisingly good. Hard move off ground then easily up and left around roof and up slab. Double BB belay.

Technical wall left of Lunatic, lots of options, all confusing.

Corner on left of wall, Start up Room With a View, step left and clip 3rd bolt on The Heist, step left to corner and up.

Start: Right of Pickaxe. Extra bolt!

Easy looking line 6m R of where the track hits the cliff. 3 funky cruxes. Up and left.