Routes in New Nowra - Braidwood Road

Thin and hard. For those about to crimp we salute you!

Start: Same Batman start as 'Red Member'.

3m left of Leech as Bro.

Big pockets to start then lovely juggy wall above. Rod has only placed one bolt on this route.

Some sweet rock climbing past some ring bolts

Start: Clip 1st bolt on GCR.

Not bolted yet. Hard steep start off pockets (inc mono!) then techy thin finish.

Puts the bight back into the line that mustad traversed away from.

Start: Same start as With Mustard

Unbolted exposed arete. Easy to bolt, but will be hard to climb. Someone needs to put some bolts in here, looks great !

Chimney up and be re-birthed through small squeeze onto an excellent viewing platform for Sahara & Stairway to Heaven.

traverse across and get yourself established on a technical arete a few big moves and your at the anchors should be around grade 19-21

Start: The anchors are in all you have to do is add 4-5 bolts

Project by Simon Vaughan

Make the first break without to many problems then try to get established on the middle section that has a worrying lack of holds. Hard pulls to a great break and then a brilliant top section.

Not bolted yet. Starts just right of dirty crack and climbs face to the top of the cliff.

Bouldery climbing, lovin the power of the undercling.

Start: 3 mtrs left of CC

hard moves of the ground to mid height then meander up

Start: just right of the corner

Hard moves of the ground to mid height then meander up. just right of the corner

Project

Start: Up WFW and then direct to Freeloader varient

Up crack just right of nice grey slab trend left to Hitchikers anchors. Trad. 2 metres right of Hitchikers Guide to the Galaxy

Choosy roof crack then splitter hand crack up wall 10m left of Enlacement. This has only been top-roped. Needs more hammering of choss before I dare to lead it!

Directly up the crack when you emerge from the chimney walkthrough 15m right of Seafood Tapas and 10m left of Prawn Cracker. Up the crack, trend to the left of a cave then back right and up the face to finish.

Crack line 2 meters left of a deep chimney at the left end of the wall.

Start: From the large ledge.

It starts in an overhanging wide crack with some soft, suspect rock for the feet. It works up through a pod that can be stemmed and face climbed around.

Start: The route follows the obvious overhanging corner left of Dad's Comb.

The leftward slanting ramp to the left of Emergent. Undoubtedly very similar to the climb near Shelob's tunnel in the Lord of the Rings. Up, up, up the leftwards ramp, then follow the weakness direct to the top.

Start at the obvious diagonal crack on the right end of the LMS slab. There is a very faint '18' painted/chipped into the rock at the start. Climb up 7 meters follow the seam as it diagonals left. Top out, belay on large cams under blocks.

The obvious crack splitting this wall. Mixed route with trad gear needed down low, bolts up higher to anchors.

Obvious corner crack. Large gear. Two belay bolts set well back from the top can be used to belay.

The corner crack to peapod and overhang. Done in the days before Friends were invented and the hexs rattled out around your ankles as you passed them by. I rather like the newer names.

Start: Corner crack on the left side of the cave structure

A pleasant adventure. Left hand route on the black wall. As for First Impressions. Follow the line of fixed hangers just right of the empty space and finish up on the nose and easy ground above. Take some medium to large cams, double rope handy to reduce drag.

The left leaning splitter crack in the wall 4m right of major corner. Some classic crack climbing and with bolted face climbing at the top. Take small to medium cams and medium to large nuts.

The next 4 routes have a common start at a FH just to the left of a scrubby corner, on the right of the overhang. The leftward trending line on the blunt arete left of AHMS. Take a selection of wires and cams and a couple of slings. As for Angus Has Me Stumped. P1 (20m, 20, 6 bolts) Clip first hanger of AHMS then traverse left to tread at break, up past 2 hangers, step left around nose and on past another hanger to belay on ledge with tree. Double bolt belay. P2 (20m, 16, 1 bolts) Exciting traverse leftward past hanger to corner, up and traverse left at top and on to top.

The unmistakable corner/crack feature 100m south of the waterfall/creek has been climbed before, first ascent details unknown. 1). Climb the steep slab past 6 bolts to a double bolt belay at the base of the corner crack. 2). Climb the corner crack to top or lower off option.

The zig zag trad crack trending leftwards.

Up obvious corner to flake system and some kind of shenanigans above

The crack corner under the impressive orange wall with 2 unknown routes on it.

Right hand end of overhang/cave. Up crack to top.

The completely overgrown scrubby corner left of the abseil route, the only evidence being a bolt and chain anchor at the top.

Why anyone would climb a rotten corner like this i don't know but i have, probably with a good helmet on. And yes we graded it 10.

Start: Two meters right of CL in rotten corner.

Follow obvious zigzagging crack. Classic trad climbing finishing of with a few bolts. (20m) FA Jason Lammers 13/03/2010

A few meters right of ROTF. Up obvious crack to top.

Start 10m right of the abseil route at the base of a crack corner behind a turpentine tree. Climbs the line to a bolt and chain anchor?lower off on the right under the roof.

Splitter crack in the pillar left of the large roof. Right hand end of ledge,8m right of FSR, and just around right from EITR. double bolt belay. P1 (12m, 22) Rightward leaning corner then crack in face to ledge on left with shrub. P2 (23m, 17) Step back right onto jambed chockstone, up chimney and corner then black slab on right to top.

start under the leaning crack, all geared up!! all those bottom placements you think you can see are dirty and flaring, so you climb up a bit freak out and down climb a little then do some gardening.. you get decent gear at about 4 mtrs, more nut placements than cams finish up storking pork anchors

Start: ummm. at the bottom of the crack i guess!

The obvious overhanging, leaning crack. An inspiring line and a classic trad test piece.

1. 20m, 25 - Climb the crack to belay at the break or lower off, double bolt belay/chain.

2. 12m, 10 - Traverse right to corner and follow to top.

One of the original classics from some time b4 the last ice age. An easy wall with good gear. A must for all the Trad Dad's. Now bolted and given 18 in the guide (Mustard?), you be the judge.

Start: Right of SL at short and blocky corner. Under obvious slightly off vertical wall with three cracks in it. You can lower on a 60m rope to the floor with about 5 metres left (if belaying from on the block).

Route broken into three short pitches with lower offs on the first two. Climbs the right hand end of slabby orange wall and discontinuous corner. Take some medium wires and small to medium cams. 10m left of BUTO

1. 12m, 20, 3 bolts - Step onto wall at conglomerate band and up to large ledge.

2. 12m, 22, 3 bolts - Up technical slab to flake corner past a third bolt to exit up thin crack to ledge.

3. 6m, 17, 1 bolts - Up wall above ledge to top.

Up widening crack on trad. Gritty.

A nice introduction to trad cracks with good gear and not too testing. Starts just inside the gap. Climb the crack to the shared anchors.

Up the corner crack and then follow the left crack system off ledge. Another very old route, at least you get bolts for the first 5 meters.

Start: In Corner of Mythical Tomatoes.

The right route of two up an easy angled black wall.

Start: At the apex of the gully

A classic line that has been climbed before but no details have been found to date. The second of two major ramps about 80m right of M&A. (1) Starts at a seep and is worth tangling with to gain this classic line, up past 3 bolts and traverse to the corner, climbing the slab past another bolt and past relic to double bolt belay. (2) Continue up the corner to chain anchor (Two abseils from here) or on to the top and double bolt belay.

Not a lot of protection through the first wall from memory but think of England, Dave Mcleod & just fake it.

Start: At wall with scooped out bites just right of Mythical tomatoes

Line up next to the arete past 2 bolts. Makes a good exit route.

Start: At the apex of the gully

The three tiered open book corner sporting a thin crack. Has some gear left in it, it's not booty.

A bit of old fashioned run it out trad climbing, taking in all the best looking rock it could.

Start: Same as for Cab Rank under obvious bite out of wall ie under scoops.

Follow the crack system with a choice of the left or right at the first small ledge. Head up and trend right. At the large ledge you may find it easier to traverse left a couple of metres for going up and coming back onto the line.

Another old trad route. Not sure how much pro you get on it but i remember it as run out. Then again its only 14.

Start: Drop down off the ledge where 'Usurper' starts and walk towards the water fall a few meters. Around the nose you will soon see a large left leaning slab and corner with lots of rooves above it. From Cab rank you can look up to the right and see a tree growing from an orange rock ledge this is the last stance.

Start as for Heyday and climb to the stacked blocks, best to belay here. Climb the airy arete on gear (cams) and bolts to the top.

Jam up the crack to lower-off anchor.

Steep climbing in slime past 3 bolts leads to gear, then another bolt and crack to loweroff. A single rack up to #2 with double #1 and double #2 is suffice. No wires necessary though you could probably protect the whole line with a swag of hexes. Dirty start leads to pleasant problem solving on excellent rock. F.a used 4x 80cm slings (two at start cave/hole and 2x at end under loweroff.

Low angled corner crack. Start up on scree slope.

The corner crack through offwidth roof 3m right of Sunset Boulevard.

Why not add a trad climb to this gridbolted wall. Named after the second punched herself in the face when a hold let go.

Start 1m right of Roger the emu, up crack with tricky mantle onto the ledge then up easy slabby corner crack. Boulder and gear belay.

Start up corner and traverse out right. When the ledge ends go straight up through caves to lower off at top. medium wires, BD cams to #3, double the small ones. A really big sling (4ft+) is optional.

The open book corner, thin in parts and well protected. Use the bolt to batman onto the ledge. Bridge the corner to the lower off anchors on the right.

The obvious diagonal crack feature. Good gear and snappy holds will make this a popular trad route.

The crack to the right of A. Stuff in a bunch of cams, try not to pull anything off, and up you go.

The splitter crack leading to the roof. Start at the base of the little corner capped by a honeycombed block. Climb the crack, over the block ( a little sandy but solid) turn the roof (bolt) and continue up the crack to shared anchors with DMC.

Up R The D for first three bolts then trend left into the obvious left leading crack. Wires and cams to connect the bolts, finish at the D. rings at the end of the diagonal.

2 pitch corner crack on gear. Start at the left end of ledge that splits the cliff, Double bolt belay.

1. Traverse left to stacked blocks, up the corner and exit left to belay.

2. climb up and left to exit left of the leaning crack, bolt.

Start 1m right of blocky corner as per guidebook, up feint grey streak to top out eventually.

Start at the old chains, up the easy ramp past an old pin and some new fixed hangers up high.

Fantastic outing in a stellar position. Same start as Heyday. Take the first crack leading to the roof, exit left and follow crack to top.

Start at obvious crack feature. Wind your way up the wall topping out. Crossed by many bolted routes now. Such is progress trampling over the heritage of the trad climber.

The crack starting at the little corner 4 meters right of SC. Still needs cleaning.

...Birthday Long Weekend. A trad adventure that starts on a couple of really nice pockets caused by some quartz pebbles on the conglomerate slab. Up the slab before winding around the Right Hand arete of the Cornice and up to the highest point through a series of ledges. Moves probably only top out at 13 however all the gear is found in the horizontal breaks that wrap around the arete. There are some less than ideal and technical placements required to properly protect the climb so the grade is been upped a little accordingly. Despite its grade this shouldn't be considered a good option for an introduction to trad climbing.

Bring doubles in small camalots up to #0.75 , and singles up to #3. No wires required however you could probably find some. Starts at base of wall on right and climbs into twin crack system via Ubolts then steep pumpy sport climbing on gear. Very well protected when the moves get tough and a total pumper at the end, Make sure you save a #1 for last break and don't bail out left , direct to flake then loweroffs. Some extendable draws help for double placements in breaks on headwall.

One of the more varied bits of climbing around. Start up "beat up and thrown out" then follow the steel out right, pumpy and powerful to the top

bring one plate for the glue in carrot or improvise

Crack climbing so what else is there to say. At base of large trench like crack splitting the left side of the orange wall. Marked with an engraved initial 'T'. Bridge around the crack and through the roof. Follow crack and wall to the top and walk off to belay or rap off a tree.

Awkward start, then battle up the cracks to double RB lower off.

The corner to the left of Dalek Dick. Only evidence of an ascent is the old carrot bolt at the top for a belay (don't use it you're better off tying off to a bunch of those half burnt scrawny bushes than clipping this thing).

The classic route from the 70s. Put up by the pioneers of the area. Just because they don't have a line of stainless drilled up em doesn't mean they're not climbs!

Start: Obvious big black slab around the corner right of 'Snacky Cakes'

Another way old climb that was done before recorded time had begun. Probably by the old cockroach himself (Bill James). PS changed named from Cabrank senile?

Start: At the bottom of the right leaning diagonal ramp which splits the face in this area.

Start under right-hand end of overhang. Step out and up following crack.

Natural gear.

Something easy and easy to setup a top rope via rungs. Many gear placements, however, watch for any loose blocks. The anchor of this route is next to the rungs, ideal for close explanation of how to tie off on an anchor for first timers rather than yelling from the ground.

The obvious crack left (north) of Prawn Wall. Romp on up the right trending crack with lots of good jams and holds. Pass the tree and anchor from the double bolts at the top of Prawn Wall.

Ascend the face between LMS and the brushy gully. Start at LMS and move slightly right, then straight up. Stay left of the alcove near the LMS anchors. Top out and belay on slung blocks or other gear.

Apologies to G Hill for the name, I don't know what it should be called.

Start: 1 meter left of Little Miss Sunshine

Face between Enlaecmnt arete and Karate Chops roof crack. Climb small banksia to cavelet on lip of cave. Wave up the techy nice face above. Top-rope only at the moment.

Sharpen up your finger nails for this one, great moves on super rock

Start: 3 mtrs left of crack, as for Broken Bishop then take the right line of bolts. Leave your office hands at home for this one!

Follows the outstanding arete at the right end of the slab. Start off the block at the right end of the black slab.

Slightly overhung face just left of major corner crack. Sustained edges and pockets. 25? There is a direct finish, and an easier right version bolted.

Route right of RBI.

Start as for Busted-arse Ol Coot. At the top of the crack go right on the flake line heading back left near the top to the anchors.

Start at right end of cave. Climb up on jugs to exciting move thru the roof.

Located on wall to the left of the main cliff. Access the ledge from the left side. Start at rungs. Straight up past hole. Some good moves once you clear the bottom slab.

Feel good moves with a punchy crux finale.

Line of bolts right of Pebble Rebel.

Up the crack and fight the pump through reachy moves to the anchor (18ish to black slab before overhang)

Start off the boulder in the cave. Then up the corner, techy traverse out left, then finish up delicious pockets