Routes in Australia for selected grade

The first climb done in the Organ Pipes. A very pleasant outing. Start 8 metres left of big dead gum tree.

1. 20m (7) Follow crack, or face just left of crack, up buttress to ledge and the former location of a plaque to climbing pioneer Bob Craddock (who died in a car accident).

2. 25m (6) Step up and right around to the front of buttress and up to belay left of big tilted boulder.

3. 10m (8) Up short wall just left of boulder then up flaring chimney. An alternative to this pitch is to traverse left for 3 metres above the void and then climb the steep wall 7 metres left of the chimney. Optional fourth pitch is grade 10: From big ledge climb steep wall on right and finish up a crack on the left of the pinnacle. No one seems to do this these days but it is quite good.

The corner crack 4m left of Flake Crack.

1. 15m Up corner to chains.

2. 15m Left up corner and gully.

3. 22m Walk left, up into chimney.

Instead of going up to the front, follow the track around and up onto the north shoulder of the Pharos. Start at a low-angled, blunt spur just left of a vegetated gully.

1. 43m (8) Up the buttress to a small ledge. Continue on steeper rock to another small ledge. Step off right side of ledge (straight up is grade 14) then up to a ledge below a short gully.

2. 15m (4) Up the gully to a large ledge. Continue up to the next ledge, the Tennis Court.

3. 20m (8) From the top of the pedestal, climb the tricky weakness left of the red overhang. Belay on the first good ledge.

4. 23m (7) Up to subsidiary summit, step across gap then up to summit.

Start 1m R of 'Play School', 1m L of 'Moonlight Dilemma'.

Retrobolted so now a nice easy beginner lead. 5 RBs to DBB.

The first route at Mt Piddington, and still one of the best. If you're at this end of the crag at the end of the day this route is a nice way to significantly shorten the walk out. It's not too hard to climb it with packs on, then do a 200m bush bash due east along the ridge to the firetrail. Start 17m left of 'Infidel' opposite the Cottage Boulder. It is the left most route on the slab. Now has a million bolts which didn't originally exist.

1. 30m Up slab to bulge, hand traverse around to the right and up to belay with an eclectic assortment of hardware.

2. Up slab, veering left and up. Pitches 1 and 2 can be run together if you have double ropes, or even on a single rope if you think about which bolts to skip and which to extend.

Start: Start 10m R of 'Tiresias'.

1. 12m (7) To ledge then R up ramp.

2. 23m (7) L, over crux bulge and into chimney to finish.

Right hand route on Kid's Slab

(Training Ring to Right).

Double ring top rope anchors installed. Access cautiously from top. Tim Booth A trad route for beginners on their first climb. Start at the crack in the middle of the wall then pull 1m right and up the jugs. Step back left for the final crack, or go direct the whole way (a tad harder).

The left of the two obvious trenches in the face where the path arrives at the crag.

Ledges and large cracks on the R of the asgard wall. The groove through the overhang is awkward.

Do Jihad and Rain of Terror, put your walking shoes back on, then:

1. Walk to the other (southeast) end of the Wedding Cake to 2 bolt anchor.

2. Abseil 35m down the southwest side (down the grade 16 Wedding Cake Return Pitch) to bushy area.

3. Walk NORTHWEST for 30-40m, down a few metres, then back southeast for ~150m (exposed at times) to where the track ends in a little alcove below some 6m high cracks/corners. Squeeze through the slot to rubble ledge and big spike.

4. 55m The Stegosaurus Pitch! Great fun. Place minimal pro on this to avoid drag, your primarily protecting the second, its mostly scrambling. Up the LH corner or the crack just R (same grade) onto the ridge. Then head southeast over the lumps, up 5m chimney onto the biggest lump, then chimney 8m down off it (due to the amount of rope out, both leader and second are basically soloing these chimneys), and walk/scramble another 15m southeast to 2 bolt rap anchor atop the next chimney.

5. 38m abseil/walk diagonally down the ramps above the seal colony to the base of Pole Dancer. You can place 1 or 2 cams (#1-3 range) as directionals for both abseilers, and leave them there as lead pro for the return scramble. This is the only spot where a single 70m rope is not quite enough but it's a good ledge by the time you run out of rope so no problem if you are ready to go off the ends. You are now at the base of the Pole Dancer first pitch chimney.

Marked 'WL'. The beginners classic! Up the juggy face crack with good pro to ledge. The top 4m tier is spectacularly pocketed, but poorly protected.

The enjoyable crack and groove starting below and four metres left of 'Penny'.

Start at the leftmost line of bolts on the 'Main Wall'. Rap/belay from ring #6.

Climbing 101. Possibly grade 6.

Poo is very serious issue which challenges ongoing access to popular climbing areas such as Andromeda, Slider, or Coolum.

Either don't poop at the crag, carry it out, or take the time to learn proper bush toileting procedures. Don't act surprised when you see crags being closed.

Last climb on Legends Wall: easy up to first bolt, over the bulge, then easy to chains.

Mini bolted slab in slot at left end of wall. The first pitch is good for kids.

1. 6m (6) Up boulder, step R to DRBB.

2. 18m (8) Up following closely spaced bolts.

The first bolt is situated at chest height when standing on the ground so it can be clipped before you set foot on the route. The second bolt can be clipped one move from the ground. The anchors are set for easy clipping and cleaning.

Next route left of: Join The ACAQ And Become A Legend. Easy moves up to the first RB, crux is passing this, then easy moves up slab to chains.

The obvious arete. Not well protected.

The right of the two obvious trenches in the face where the path arrives at the crag.

Marked 'CG'. Similar climbing to Cee Gee Also, but slightly harder.

The undercut direct start to 'Marshmallow Sea' is definitely a little harder than the original.

A great beginner's lead. Climb the blocks to a ledge. Up the twin cracks to the next ledge. Easily up to the tree.

Start: 3m right of SI.

1. 24m (8) Corner, face to ledge under overhang.

2. 35m (8) Corner, right, back to corner and up.

Gum tree and bollard for anchors.

Stand start below the so-called crack-like thingy.

An easy-featured grey slab. Start: As for MMC, up and immediately veer R, following slab & 4 BR, up to DRLO.

BE & B Cameron 9/8/15

Stand start with good edges, climb the face.

6m R of boulder against cliff (forming step). 1. 16m (8) Up and left passing BR to get to big flake. Follow flake to DRB and lower off or continue the next pitches. 2. 26m (11) Up and L to follow flakes to stance. 3. 24m (6) Straight up to the top.

Around the right side of the boulder facing uphill.

Easy stand start. SDS goes at about V3.

Worth the walk if you're not too hung-over, with amazing scoopy rock on the latter pitches. Start as for 'Prohibition'.

1. 25m - Climb the left slanting crack and ramp as for 'Prohibition', but continue along the ramp until it levels off.

2. 30m - Up the amazing scoopy/blocky white slabby rock above to a ledge and abseil anchors (you can finish here - walk right).

3. 30m - Up the easy slab behind the belay.

Start: Arête right of F&J.

On the mossy boulder opposite Petit Miam.

1m left of Gog.

An easy classic. Take wide gear for the top pitch.

1. 12m (8) Up chimney 1m left of Gog to bushy ledge. Fun climbing with good pro.

2. 24m (8) Corner then wall and ramp on right. Alternatively, finish as for Cider in bottleneck chimney above.

Beautiful, easy face.

Start: Start 2m R of FoF.

Stand start with good holds, climb the wide arete.

Stand start pulling up on horizontal fault and follow the line to the top out.

Sit start and climb the arete on its right side.

Unlikely to be a FA, but hey, I'll claim it until someone else does.

This climb has been upgraded from 8 to 9 in the 2011 Guide Book "ROCKCLIMBS AROUND MELBOURNE" by Glenn Tempest.

Start 1 m right. Up slab to ledges and top out. Anchor from baluster 8.

Corner to roof then out to slab. Single ring bolt on slab to cater for significant run out. Tree belay/rap at top.

Start: Low angled corner to roofs.

Another ancient ramble. Start as for Pad Nag, but trend right up past piton and onto rib.

Stand start and climb the short face into the runnel.

Middle of wall, topout on jug to the right.

Sit start. Easy climbing straight up the arete to a top out.

Up the corner using medium to large gear. Stainless carrot belay 3m back from top.

Marked 'PL'. Another good lead for beginners. Up nice groove with adequate pro.

Classic, square-cut corner starting dirctly behind small pine. Finish up easy ground above corner.

Short slab crack with lower off. Great training ground for fledgling trad leads.

Something of an easy classic. The major corner to the ledge and rap rings.

Poorly pro down low. Shallow open corner 3m R of oxbow. Up corner to step R onto arête at where cracks converge. Up to just below blocky overhang. Step right onto juggy arête and up to the top

A way to the top of the cliff. Unfortunately it breaks down very quickly into an unpleasant gully.

20m (8) From the right end of Flinders Lane, climb a juggy corner into a chimney. Belay on second ledge. 45m (4) Up the chimney-gully.

Start 2 m right. The line of least resistance up the easy ledges. Anchor from baluster 9.

Start 3m L of 'Bird Dance For Shiva'.

Up the ledges then the loose corner to top.

Nice rock, nice moves, brilliant nut pro. With that many superlatives it's gotta be worth a star, right?

Start: Start right of 'No Turning Back'.

2m right of PLE. Sit start. More easy climbing up another prominent arete.

Start in corner 3m L of 'Pseudo-Cox'. Faintly marked "CC".

Climb awful face past a number of pins. From here the climb originally traversed L to corner and tree then upward to more wire netting. Now the tree has grown so large you'd be doing well to make it that far. Probably not worth the effort.

A good way up to cave 4 and beyond, not as clean and classy as The Caves Route but a nice change of scenery.

Start about 50m right of Black Orpheus, in a gully that is accessed by scrambling up just before the track drops down and starts heading around the northern side of the mountain. This route has many variations - this description is only one of them.

1. Scramble up the gully, left of Candy Mountain, then up right, into the prominent corner and follow the apron right towards Ross Miller Route until a ramp is met on the left. Scramble up this ramp to a corner belay below the first bolts of the Ross Miller Route.

2. Climb the left leaning gully, to a prominent steelwood tree. Belay from here.

3. Traverse right and diagonally up, following a line of small trees (slings) to a ledge, below a steep short gully. Belay from solid tree or gear.

4. Move left and up (grade 2) or climb the gully directly to avoid rope drag, heading in the direction of cave 4, either stop at the ledge at the bottom of the ramp in front of cave 4 or continue up to the prominent tree on the ramp. Find a suitable tree to break the pitch.

5. Continue up and towards the right side of cave 4 (facing cave) into the gully/chimney, with a cruxy move to top out into cave 4. This pitch can be done without rope. The most popular escape is the Cave 3 traverse (grade 2, now bolted, with anchor), on the left far side of the cave, to join Caves Route, or keep scrambling to the right and in the upper cave 4 to the start of Prometheus II (marked). Due to the weakness of the trees on this route, abseiling is not recommended.

The set of twin cracks 2.5m L of arête to small corner in upper section. Great rock. Belay from "SIASSB" anchor.

Some fun slab surfing. Not the best landing so bring a spotter.

Up left on rounded rail

The corner crack at the far R end of the main slab.

Up grey wall around corner from Highly Evolved.

Start: Start between the two chimneys.

1. 25m (8) Add a few grades the further you start to the right. Up jugs just L of crack to ledge.

2. 21m (8) Up to follow large crack.

Stand-start.

Located on the arete at the bottom of the third terraced area/gully uphill and L of main cliff. Start at arete, up steep juggy section to small ledge. Traverse 2m R, then up to a ledge. Move into the gully/groove on the R and up.

Climb up L of the staghorn on the downhill side of the boulder. A nice little slab to get your confidence up if you're new to the game!

The crack/corner marked 'SO'. A jug fest. Pretty Iffy.

Sit start using right side of crack only

Chimney up between the isolated rock and cliff face.

Stand start at near the decent tree, and traverse the entire boulder. About the same grade regardless of height above the ground.

Commonly used as a descent scramble, but originally reported as a climb.

Easy ramp 4m R of Angry Ants, lower off above ledge.

Start as for FO but trend diagonally left on juggy holds to finish on CP.

Stand-start. Move up on jugs.

On the back of the Kite Runner boulder, 5m south of Flat Crack, climb the short, uphill face. Sit start.

Easily up the right side of the face, on good edges.

Sit start then up the slightly loose flake. Be careful. The downclimb

Stand-start. Jugs everywhere.

Easiest way down can also be climbed upward.

Double ring top rope anchors installed. Directional ring 3meters lower than anchor on opposing wall.Access cautiously from top. Tim Booth The corner crack marked JC. Up the crack...ahhh thats what number 11 hexes are

Start marked 'V'. The chimney you can see walking up the short gully. To the left of OS.

Up the very good easy feature. A good beginner or kid's problem, with an easy descent off the back.

Corner between aretes

Sitstart up left edge only.

6m right of OA.

1. 12m (8) Juggy slab to arete.

2. Up arete.

3. To top.

Mildly tricky sit start, but then straight up the face on very good holds.