Routes in Australia for selected grade

1. 30m (15) 11 bolts. Starts about 30 metres to the left of the access track, marked with a 'T'. Look for high fixed hanger on very easy terrain. First pitch is very easy, a little wandery over ledgey terrain.

2. 15m (17) 7 bolts. Starts to get a bit steeper now with a lovely bit of ramp to make you think. The blocks before the corner system may be a bit disconcerting for some. Just head across these gingerly and pull into the awesome orange corner.

3. 15m (18) 6 bolts. This is a brilliant corner with a bit of a sting at the crux {naturally}. Check out the biggest bucket in the world as you pull back left when you get higher on the pitch.

4. 20m (15) Pretty much straight up from the anchors then trend right and on to a large vegetated ledge.

5. 30m (16) Head right from the belay and step around the large gendarme with the two bolts on it. The step across the void after the gendarme is breathtaking. Route joins the top of Voyager shortly after this. Head on up to the halfway House terrace ledge for more sport goodness. Use long extenders (120cm+) for at least the first 5 bolts.

Descent: Abseiling back the way you came is not recommended and has resulted in numerous stuck ropes. It is recommended you head up to Halfway House, follow the fixed ropes up and left from the anchor. Once at Halfway house head right and abseil down Clemency. The top anchors for Clemency are beneath the tree with the fixed rope.

Please note that there is a fixed rope heading down and right from the anchor of Troposhpere, this does NOT lead to an anchor that you should abseil from.

Starts on left side of arête. Straight up to finish.

Optional friend no longer needed to protect start.

Follows the obvious orange streak up the middle of the wall. Ringbolts.

Start at big "PT" mark.

Nice climbing up past 5 RBs then run it out a bit up easy slab to anchors. There's a ground anchor at the base for lead rope soloing.

Crux undercling came off winter 2015. The change is pretty minimal but it's probably a bit harder now.

An absolute classic at the grade, and a test piece jamming problem. Up the pumpy and strenuous hand crack, milking the numerous rests and stances as they come to hand. Some of the best hex placements at Frog are found here. Straight up to DRBB.

One of the all-time classic routes of the region, if not Australia. Fantastic climbing up the searing crack on a stunning wall. Rap anchors on ledge at the top of the first pitch. Start at the base of the mega obvious crack.

1. 22m (18) Blast up the crack, you won't get lost. This pitch is also known as Yorkshire Crack.

2. 10m (23) A rarely repeated direct finish to the route goes straight over the overhang above the first belay, passing some old carrots en route.

Start at "D" mark.

Up past 3 RBs then steeper moves R past 4th RB. Trend gently L onto slab and up past a RB and a FH to anchor shared with 'Nic Chips Diffs'.

Pleasant wall 6m R of K.

Starts at the obvious layback flake 4m left of On Edge. Most link pitch 1 & 2 and forego the final pitch, descending via lowers or onto ledge and sketchy traverse right (use a rope) to rap anchors on Angular crack.

1. 15m (17) Up sustained layback flake (big cams) to ledge (most link straight into 2nd pitch)

2. 15m (17) From ledge head right and up obvious crack through rooflet to lower-offs or onto ledge and carrot belay

3. 23m (??) Rarely done chimney pitch off to the left.

Lower-offs and new belay carrots added 2016.

Start 2m left of SOF. Up tending right then left through crux, to easy top section. Double fixed biners at top.

Updating previous description, there are now anchors and a full complement of ringbolts on this route.

It looks (December 2015) like the natural line here is sharing the beginning of Quirrel's Quarrel) to the top of the block then moving left and up (gear placements and bolts).

Ringbolts. The L rap ring on the anchor is now worn about a quarter through, still fine but may need replacement soonish. Until then, consider rotating it before loading so your rope wears on a different spot to extend its life.

Bold start to gain slightly overhanging face then up scoops on rings to double ring lower off. Good fun at the grade.

Short and fun - a popular warm-up. Most find this a pumpy little 18.

Start 2m L of 'Tombstone Row'. Marked "B".

A fun, well-protected KP sport route. 5 RBs to DBB.

Used to be a carrot patch for the sports bunnies, with an awesome final wall. Now it has rings all the way. Carrots are still there, so take some brackets if you need to share a belay. Don't go as a party of 3 unless you are experienced, it eats too much time. If you have a pack, haul it on the second rope if you're getting tired. Don't leave toilet paper or rubbish, you're in a National Park, behave accordingly and don't get on routes like this if you don't know what that means.

People have stupid epics on this all the time. Please read :- http://www.chockstone.org/Forum/Forum.asp?Action=DisplayTopic&ForumID=15&MessageID=26665&Replies=58&PagePos=0&Sort=#NewPost

Generally safe, but run-out at times, with a few loose patches of rock. Take helmets as belayers are lashed to small ledges and can’t dodge shrapnel. Take 2 50m ropes (for rapping down, or retreating), 16 draws and a few slings.

There is a blue emergency bin below Pitch 6, with some water, food, clothing, torches, and basic shelter. Don't call 000 just because you are benighted, so the police don't have to go out at night to babysit you. Please arrange to replace anything you use.

ACCESS: It’s halfway to Hotel California from Mirrorball. Rap in as described above then walk along the track to the right (facing the cliff). After 30m, drop down around the base of Old Skule (clean arete on next pinnacle) and go 70m horizontally right thru the scrub till you hit an orange buttress. Continue down a bit and about another 70m to red rope and BBB sign:

★★★ Bunny Bucket Buttress 18 - 20220101_075236.jpg

Now scramble up and right to a ledge 15m above the track, right of a chossy white patch, just right of a short squeeze chimney. Walk 10m right on the ledge till you see the bolts at the boulder problem start. (If you go down hill to a big fallen boulder, or see a 30m high black then orange corner (Randy Rabbit Ridge), or traverse beneath a choss cave, you've gone too far).

Print out topos and route description or save them to your phone, as you probably won't have reception down there.

1. 20m (18) Traverse out right and back left to flake, reachy. Up to ledge, 2RB.

2. 20m (18) Right and up seam and corner to ledge. Up a move and diagonally R to arete, then R to ledge and 2RB.

3. 40m (18) Up dirty slab and R across corner, traverse R to nose and up corner and nose to ledge. 2RB on block or walk R 8m to 2BB at base of wall.

4. 30m (8) A hard hands-free problem, diagonally R past bolts to 2RB on block further up or tree belay at the top of the slab.

5. 40m (8) Climb across ledges and walls (and a lot of bush...) past bolts to below orange overhang, L to 2RB below corner.

6. 40m (18) Up choss and head out L staying low under roof. Rope drag possible, but its fine if you sling the first 4 bolts. Head up pumpy wall to big ledge. 2RB.

7. 40m (18) Up vertical pump. Needs 15 draws. 2RB.

8. 40m (13) Left across ledge, diagonal L past bolts and across groove. Climb loose left wall to 2RB on top. Rope drag possible, but it's fine if you sling the first few bolts.

Stickclip if you are short (tricky start). Ringbolts. There is a loose ~10kg block at halfway: keep people clear below and try not to dislodge it.

Shared start with previous, then straight up. Fun jug hauling. Rebolted 2017.

Probably the most popular route at Nowra at the grade. Great friction work.

Start 2m L of 'PITG'. Marked "SCB".

Follow the zigzag line of 6 RBs to lower-offs. There's a 7th RB above the anchor if you want to continue up the last section and top out instead.

Ensure that you and your belayer have good communication skills if leading this climb as the belayer can not see the climber when they reach the anchors because of the slab, you have to go halfway across the road to be able to see your climber at the anchors.

Start on the very right end of the terrace next to the big chimney. Climb up past a tricky move at the first bolt, then try some left edge bridging at the 2nd roof to overcome the crux, then cruise your way up (yes 3 roofs on this one).

Climb the slab beneath the cave passing a nice flake. Continue above cave tending slightly left to a flake, then back in line to lower-offs.

Start: Start 2m right of BW

Popular, mostly due to the bolts, easy grade and the weather protection. The middle of the three mini-routes. Wall to fun flake feature, then up tricky wall to finish. Some loose rock at the top.

Rings, just to the right of Pompadour.

Follow R leaning corner and crack. Five U-bolts to a spicy move at the end. Lower-off. Similar style to Dreamcatcher at an easier grade.

One of the most popular middle grade routes on the cliff, and deservedly so. The splitter crack up the face to the R of Micron. This route offers amazing gear, fantastic movement and some hair-raising moments thrown in for free! Rap down RURP from the DBB on the wall at the back of the ledge, not in behind the pillar as for Micron, which is notorious for stuck ropes.

A really good route, one of the most pleasant 18s at Arapiles. Start 3m R of Jason. Jugs to bulge and over to stance on right. Step left and up thin line.

Start left of the cave as per BD.

Start 2m L of 'Vegemite'.

Good climb with sustained moves up nice rock. 6 RBs & DBB. There's a ground anchor just L of the base for lead rope soloing.

Take extra hand-size cams, plus a big cam for the top. The 2 bolt belay (carrots) is easily missed - look for them very close to where you top out.

Quite classic and good fun. Climb the obvious corner on the left side of the wall. An awkward start then jamming to a little roof. A bit tricky but not too cruxy. Take care with gear in the glassy crack - cams have a habit of either skating out or walking in.

Fun climb with nice moves, I've seen 2 ppl get flipped when falling just below the lower-offs - don't let the rope go behind your legs!

Very excellent slabbing, with a thought provoking crux.

Start: Start on the juggy bit of wall 4m right of the chimney. Has a new second bolt to protect the ground fall.

A technical, exhilarating route. A great contrast to its companion climb. The majority of the route remains in the shade until late morning. Start as for Watchtower Crack.

1. 25m (12) Pitch 1 of Watchtower Crack.

2. 40m (18) Pitch 2 of Watchtower Crack to cave, continue up to below the overhang. Traverse out right on fantastic horizontal break. Tricky moves gain sickle shaped line, then move up about 6m to a stance spanning the corner, which has some good wires and is surprisingly comfortable. Don't be tempted by the piton of Gollum a few metres higher, you are much better off where you are.

3. 42m (17) Follow the flake line, which eases towards the top.

Left of 'Duckling'.

As for 'Trapeze' to the bolt (where 'Trapeze' breaks left), and continue up the arete past another bolt to a new lower-off.

Start: As for 'Trapeze'.

Scarily loose, should probably finish under the roof.

Off the ledge to the left of the dead tree. Ringbolts. Good!

A classic test piece at the grade. Start up face from the ground, or step in from the L at 2m (not as good). It is a little tricky to protect in the first 4m, but look around and salvation will come to hand! From here, climb the superb thin hands-to-fist/off-width crack all the way to the ledge. Rap chains can be found here. Cams to a #4 C4 are essential if you don't like run outs!

Bouldery start then left a bit, rightwards up yet another thin finish. Very popular warmup. Start: 3m right of Gash.

Most will agree, this climb is the best easy/moderate trad route at the Point and for miles around. Gear placement is amply available and the climbing consistent at the grade. Start in the middle of the dark south-facing wall to the right of the Man Overboard corner. Follow the sinuous crack as it slowly widens to hand size.

Tricky start then R through bulges, finishing just L of Muldoon's final arete. It's good to do in two pitches to reduce rope drag and to better protect the second from a groundfall off the bouldery start. Rather than the long scramble approach, you can also approach up the short tough finger crack a few metres L of the start of Muldoon.

Start: Start 2m R of Tantalus. Descend from DRRB at the top of Muldoon

2x clip-and-go biner anchors.

Both pitches can be combined - bring a lot of bolt plates!

1. 20m (18) Fun juggy face, through a bulge then traverse left to small ledge and semi-hanging belay.

2. 35m (15) Long exposed face. This pitch is all on carrots (10 bolt plates are needed + 2 extra if using top belay carrots). Double ring bolt belay or top out and use carrots set back from the edge. Walk off unless you have double ropes.

Nice crack with 'good' underclings and 'easy' moves. The block that the lower off was in is cracked on 3 sides and has a tree growing in it, so it was moved down to more solid rock.

Start on the right side of arête, finish by traversing left to the shared anchors with 'Maddest Hatter'.

Classic Frog climbing. Up the initial twin cracks with some difficulty to a ledge. Step L and up the single crack to a stance under a daunting roof. Sling the chock stone on the R in the wide crack, swallow hard and swing out and up the ladder of chock stones with bowel-quivering exposure! Rest your nerves in the body crack for a moment, travel into the depths of the crack, then squeeze up for a move or two until it is possible to step out onto the arete and face. Easily to the top.

Best easy route at this crag. Fun climbing and surprisingly cool holds. Starts about 5m R of UF, steep start on great holds then up the face looking for the cool pockets.

People rave about this being a brilliant jamming testpiece, when in fact its a one move wonder ... so ticking it doesn't prove you're a jamming maestro. It's a very nice little climb though. The crack 3m R of 'Christian Crack'.

In memory of Annabel Choy. Up steep wall to double U-bolt belay.

Short juggy corner.

Start 2m L of usual 'Pterodactyl' start. Marked "PTD".

Up arete and cracked corner to very high RB, then join 'Pterodactyl' at its 3rd RB.

Start 4m L of PN. Up past 5 RB's to Lower offs.

The 3rd route from the right, starting at the arête (Red Room).

A bit of a sandbag with one of the hardest moves on the whole wall. Rebolted 2017.

Great climbing up the pillar bisected by an ever widening crack. The crux is near the top, coming out of a cave into a fist jam section. Easily up and L to Plume Ledge.

Really nice climbing with an exciting blast up the finishing flake.

1. 35m 17. Go up onto a terrace a few metres above ground level in the gully just right of the Didgeridoo Pipe. Follow the crack up past the left side of the overhang at 25 metres and on up the flake continuation to chains (30m to gully).

2. 50m. Originally went to top but this pitch is rubbish so just rap off.

Central line with a tricky middle section and slightly runout top.

Climbs just right of the main arête. Cops morning sun.

A hardish move onto the ledge (step in from the R) gains a rest. From here blast up the unrelenting twin crack system until your arms and legs wish to explode! Gain a slight rest under a bulge, and then blissfully climb the single crack to the ledge. Take a few 3-4 camalots. Walk L through the cave/chimney to rap off as for BC.

From the right side of 'Plume Ledge' (facing the cliff) Climb the obvious hand crack infront of a forked tree (belay). Great jamming up to a diagonal traverse right to a jug, then up the thinning crack trending slightly left on face holds to top mantle.

“Despite appearances all the holds are bomber... I challenge you to pull anything off!” - J. Make him a wager. Enjoyable climbing on big, nicely moulded holds.

A well bolted 18m warmup with fun moves and good holds most of the way,easiest to step left into the crack for a move; crag warmup.

The obvious flake crack on the wall facing Golden Fleece Wall.

Marked TW. Classic featured wall with awesome giant thread in the middle. Up past giant thread (don't thread in case it breaks), then up to clip-and-go lower-off. For the full value tick mantle out onto the top and belay off u-bolts a few metres back. Rebolted 2015.

Line of ring bolts up hanging slab. Apparently the crack 1m to the right is off route.

Start: 2m right (facing in) of 'Kaboomba Brothers'.

The thin wall 2m right of Camelot.

Industrial anchors surrounded by a sea of pockets. A crag classic.

Start: 2m right of 'Comausminpab'

Anchors and problem bolts replaced 08/20.

On the left arete 1m left of PD. Up arete past 2 Ubolts to lower-off up and right.

Start by scrambling 10m up to broad ledge 30m R of 'Line Of Credit'. A DBB at the base of a line of FHs is found here.

1. 32m (17) Follow line of FHs up and diagonally R over steep headwall before trending back L to DBB on spacious ledge.

2. 38m (13) Up through typical Tibro slab. Ignore 1st DBB you come to - it's there purely to facilitate retreat on a 60m rope.

3. 35m (15) Continue up nice exposed slab to top. Again, ignore 1st DBB you come to.

From final DBB it's easy to scramble a few metres right into Cave 3:

★★ Zeitgeist 17 - Top of Zeitgeist scramble into Cave 3

then up over the scree shoulder & down, into the very large Cave 2 to join the 'Caves Route'. Scramble down through Cave 1 out right, to the DBB. Descent from here, via the 'Caves Route' consists of 3 raps = will get you down on a single 60m.

Descent back down Zeitgeist on a single 60m rope: 4 raps will get you to the bottom slab and then a scramble down to the ground: rap down to the first DBB, 5m above the 2nd belay, mid pitch 3.

★★ Zeitgeist 17 - First rap station from the top; pitch 3

From here, rap to the next DBB, mid pitch 2 - about 15m above the first belay station on the big ledge.

★★ Zeitgeist 17 - 2nd rap station = 15m above first belay on big ledge

Then a 15m rap to the big ledge, and pitch one belay.

From here, a full 30m rap will get you to the top of the slab, with some careful down scrambling to the ground.

NOTE: IT'S STILL 4 RAPS USING A SINGLE 70M!

The left route

Carrot bolts!

Fantastic climb. The original route climbed the first pitch of Courage until above the grotty overhang and then traversed left. The route as described is vastly better. Start below the inset corner in recessed bay behind large Callitris pine.

1. 37m (17) Follow the corner for 17 metres, protection is spaced for first few metres. Move left at chalked-up weakness into a diagonal scooped line. Follow this to below roof and move left to terrace. DRB (35m rap to ground if required).

2. 30m (17) Pull through the first easy weakness on left side of overhangs. Traverse 3 metres right (stay low) and make an airy step across a gap. Take line leading straight up into awkward bottomless chimney. Easy chimney leads to large ledge, continue further 5m up to another large terrace. Scramble off left or climb short wall to base of French Crack.

Up weakness to the right of Side Show following left-facing flake system to the roof. Head left along under this until an exit can be made straight up to rap station. For a more exciting finish (still grade 18), go straight through the weakness in the roof

Start: Two metres right of Side Show, a vague "E" can be found scratched on the rock

At the left hand end of Steep Wall on the face perpendicular to steep wall. Considered a grade 15 if you use the boulder to the left.

The direct line between Sloth and EbtW, goes all the way to the top of the cliff. Watch that rope !!

A fine old classic that has just about everything in its two pitches. A great line with a fiery first pitch in an excellent position.

On the E face of the Bard Buttress there's a guano-stained recess about 25m off the ground, with a crack leading down R to the ground. Start under this crack.

1. 33m (18) Up the crack to the niche past a very old BR, then head up and slightly R from the niche to a good ledge.

2. 32m (17) A tricky steep move gains the long R-facing corner. Near it's top move R then up to the Bard Terrace.

Ann Pauligk's mid 1970s ascent, first go, was the first Aussie female ascent at this grade.

Up past FH then move L onto small ledge (FH). Pass two more FH's and up to anchor up R (shared with MM).

Start: Start: At base of gully below rounded arête.

Thin slab to juggy overhang.

Another awesomely steep line.

Start: Start 4m R of GR. Clip piton at your own risk. Sharp.

The low traverse makes it essential to use double ropes if you wish to avoid groundfall potential. After that the gear becomes more heartening, and the climbing is great. Start in the middle of the West face of Bluff Major, where the ground is at it's highest point. Finish direct to chains on R side of summit boulder, or slightly easier to L side of boulder. Please don't toprope direct off the chains as they see a lot of traffic.

Ann Pauligk's bold early-mid 1970s ascent may have been the first Aussie female ascent at this grade.

The original and classic easy sport route in the Glasshouse Mtns. Start about 15m R of 'Present And Accounted For' at pocketed water-worn runnel. If it has just rained don't bother - this route follows a waterfall groove! Most consider this a sandbag. 3 RBs, 2 FHs & 1 RB then long runout on easy slab to rap chain. Route name is based on Neil & Marty being absent from school on the day they did this. Who would have thought a simple case of truancy would lead to such enjoyment for climbers for years to come?!

The first route at The County (16/6/79). Very popular, and very classic. The obvious splitter hand crack. New lower-off from shackle on tree at top.

Move R up the slabby corner then launch up the smooth face 5m R of IaLD. 'Small' gear is all that's keeping you off the slab at first.

Start: Start as for IaLD.

Start at the top end of the chasm between the D Minor Pinnacle and the Piccolo Pinnacle, opposite Lemmington. The thin crack over low overlap then R-facing flake to chains.

About 35m R of the main wall at a left facing orange corner. Easy start and up into nice corner. Pop out of the corner and up the nice headwall. All new RB's in 2014.

Rings. Left of the 'Grey Slab' down on the main track Short little thing up to the R end of the half-height vegetated ledge with hidden anchor.

A bouldery start, eases to good holds.

Vertical face climbing with a bit of a layback section.

Start: Starts where ledge steps down, 7m left (facing in) of rap-in.

1. Cruisy pitch at the grade. Up left side of overlap then left trending layback flake to face moves and mantle on large horizontal break. 7RB to 2RB belay/lower-off.

2. Pretty ordinary but interesting moves. Worth doing if you are topping out anyway. 5RB. 'Grunt' off belay then up past awkward move on left side of overhang. Up boulder with fantastic ironstone plates to 2RB belay.

Line of U-bolts 0.5m right of Frolic. Finish on DRBB on Salubrious. If you use the Frolic crack at the start it knocks this down to a really nice grade 13ish.

Start: On ground level at far right end of small cave.

Between the Coal Sack crack and Worm Hole. A hard start, up the vertical face, to 3rd bolt, then easier finish to anchor.

The right arete of the wall starting 2m right of Old Salt. Was originally climbed starting at Old Salt and traversing right across the wall (by Tim Davenport circa 2000). The direct start up the arete was added in 2017.

2 star hand jamming ... for about 3 moves.

The obvious hand crack to the ledge and then up the flared crack in the orange face above.

Follow the ring bolts.

Start 2m to the R of 'Midnight Makeout'. Straight up clipping 2 FHs then a BR. The BR is shared with 'Midnight Makeout'. This route was originally equipped by Darrin Carter but Neil stole the first ascent by soloing the line. Naughty boy. The bolts on this route are still the original carrots bolts so take care. No dogging please.

A top little route that deserves more attention, and takes on the obvious rounded arete. Finishes at single large U/staple.

Makes a good second pitch to either of the two preceeding routes. Step warily off the ledge onto the right wall with a crescent moon shaped crack (watch the factor 2 fall off the ledge). Proceed up with much joy, and even more exposure!