Routes in Australia for selected grade

A non existent route.

HB had previously dabbled in this vicinity while searching for a second pitch for Mirage, but after he declared the second pitch groove "impossible" nobody bothered with it for years. Luckily no one told Stuart, who sauntered in and snared one of Taipan's very best. Unfortunately the first pitch is ridiculously cruxy, so most people rap in to do pitch 2 only. Start as for Sirocco.

1. 35m (31) Follow Mirage for 18m to gain the hanging slab atop the steep white corner. Now doddle up L (ha ha) past bolts to the start of the groove, and more easily to hanging belay at chain (30m rap).

2. 25m (28) Amazing climbing up the line of shallow water scoops in incredible red stone, 7FHs to chain (25m to 1st belay, 55m to ground).

Start at tree right of corner, using pocket then straight up to roof and traverse left under roof and up shallow corner to ledge. Technical corner work then follow line to crux moves at very top . . . 'Cull The Sac' variant. Climb past roof and up to ledge at half-height ~23. Sling-horn to lower, then flick it off to retrieve.

An amazing, proud, inspirational line. The thinnest of cracks bisects this imposing face. Even the ants at Frog fall off this thin face! There was some controversy over the decidedly French style of the FFA, but no one can question the talent and skill required to ascend such an amazing line. Bolts and small wires can be found.

Magnificent. HB almost freed it (30M1 - 1 point) but it took another 15 years for Ben to finish it off, by the skin of his teeth. So far he's suggested "maybe 30, 31" for the grade - we'll go with the latter!

Start: 10m R of 'Pegasus'.

1. 35m (31) Hard moves take you R through the roof 10m R of 'Pegasus' to crux into bottomless corner. On up corner to belay.

2. 27m (-) Easy ground.

Dual Fuel? Jule Fuel? Who knows how it's meant to be spelt. The usual warning applies: there's only a single bolt between you and the ground at times.

Start as for Nomads / Red Vinyl

Start as for Red Vinyl then link into Breathing Gasoline after about 9m. This eliminates the rest on Breathing Gasoline, making this route rather more sustained! For the record, on 26/4/09, not really knowing what went where, Mike Patz sent a similar link-up at the same sort of grade, this time starting up the first few bolts of Nomads then finishing up Breathing Gasoline.

A whole new route without a single extra bolt!

Start as for Red Vinyl.

Extends Red Vinyl to the lip. No more bolts, although it does now have it's own anchor. Make sure you clip the last bolt on Red Vinyl then drop back down right, up, then back left to the crux. You need an alert belayer once you're out near the lip.

Finally freed but still popular as an aid climb, hence double bolts at the top of the wall. The impressive overhanging crack on the valley side. Up the crack to the fork and take the right-hand crack to the top. Also popular as a commercial abseiling site.

It doesnt get much thinner than this. the direct line up the blankish slab 5m left of Celluloid Heroes. The grade is height dependent.

Given 31, but it's not that much harder then the original.

The bolted seam R of Melodrama and L of Be There or Be Square, to chains.

An amazing effort by a relatively unsung local.

This completely natural (read, "not chipped or glued" like its famous sibling) has some genuinely difficult (as if the grade weren't required to confirm it already) slabby traversing early on before pulling into Punks, climbing it for a few metres before escaping out R to the arete.

Start beneath the R-leading arch, a few metres up L of PitG.

The easiest line up a great, albeit only mildly overhanging wall. Probably the world's first 8b+ / 5.14a and ahead of its time in Australian terms - it took nearly ten years before an Aussie (Stuart Wyithe) repeated it!

Despite masses of beta available on the internet, it still sees very few quick ascents, hasn't been onsighted and is still regarded as somewhat of a testpiece with a redpoint crux far above the technical crux and accounting for many an accomplished climber.

Many argue the route is easier than when Wolfgang and Stefan Glowacz did it in the mid 80's due to the increased size of the crux glue hold (the notorious birdbath). For a while considered "only" 31, it seems to have re-consolidated at 32.

Start as for Punks in the Gunks. At its traverse, instead go up, L and up, up, up to chains at the top.

Mayan

Pat Turner's unrepeated line up the main Amphitheatre overhang.

Controversy, broken holds and a grade that would make this one of the hardest climbs in WA have meant this climb is more often talked about than climbed on.

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/long-standing-trad-project-ticked/

Start R of Trojan below boulder. Up and traverse R and up. Direct start (bolted by Carrigan decades ago) remains unclimbed.

"A fun day out"

1. 31 As for Teflon

2. 24

3. 28

4. 29

5. 27

Australia's hardest pure jam crack. Purportedly quite exciting with proper hard moves above a ledge and limited chances to stop and place gear. One for the smaller handed folk.

Gorgeous and impossible looking line. Absolute world-class classic. Batman on fix rope to start DUB anchor. Stout start at finger lock in horizontal break below anchor, progress steep terrain on pinkie locks, flairy hand jam, pinch, etc to double crimp. Enter wild crux through 60deg overhang with four consecutive finger locks, crimp, pocket, small dynos, etc to uncomfortable rest in break. From there it's easy gr26 but so good to under roof. Climb easy but very exposed roof to tricky exit gr23. Walk off with a smile. Cleaning is best by climbing it again to DUB anchor under roof, clean roof and lower from anchor clean gear to start anchor.

Please be careful with cams, although the rock is solid enough and immaculate for fingers , cams could damage this gem particularly in the crux section. Don't use cams in the finger locks, protect crux in crack above crimps and run it out. Protection is great in smaller sizes where fingers wont fit.

Some think it might be 30..

A fantastic natural line that was one of the 'last great lines' in the Grampians until Lee Cossey put a few days work into it and freed it in November 2015.

Start: On the right wall of the gully, about 15m L of 'Neptune' pitch 2, is this striking overhung curving corner/crack. Up tips finger crack to crux move from crimpy pinch to big huecos above the sickle, monkey right into the crack (drop the rope back to the belayer - or use double rope technique - to avoid heinous drag) and blast upwards to glory.

First ascent https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cCljblIsMYk

One of the best lines at the crag!! Climb Brummel Hook for 18m to just above the roof. Where Brummel Hook drifts R, instead head straight up the orange flake and keep on going and going. Squeeze hard, keep tension and don't let go. Luke Hansen

Start up Cheesemonster. At the break traverse right a few metres to join Non Dairy Cheeselike Substitute, and finish up that.

Climb meta to the last bolt then head left to the ‘jug’ rest on baby cheeses and do it’s final crux before finishing up the big cheese.

Monique's ascent was the first Aussie female ascent of a grade 31.

Un-climbed open project. FH on the main face lead the way up a slightly over hanging, blank looking face, following a faint seam feature. No DBB.

The other competitor for the most impressive line here, although it doesn't get as many stars. Yet to receive a 2nd ascent.

Start near the lonely boulder about 15m R of Bwana.

Up from the left to gain the faint arete then move R and up the steep grey face to the top.

Start as for Lord Elphinstone but then head diagonally across the wall to the right. 70m rope is NOT enough to lower off the anchor, but should be ok from last bolt.

As for Chulahoma to ledge, then head further right under roof to next line of bolts. Funky climbing to make it through roof and around lip. Grade is a total guess. Tom was working moves and had no real sequence sorted. Went up for another working burn and just climbed the whole way through. He went back a few years later and couldn't figure out the sequence that worked and it all felt hard.

Awesome sustained face climbing linking Lord of the Rings into Zorlac the Destroyer

The only bolted line in this cave.

Classic Power Route.

The journey to the centre of the earth could not be this epic. Start as per Green Grass diverging to the left at the seventh bolt when Green Grass heads back to the right. Up Up Up, staying generally just to the left of Green Grass to finish under the high roof.

Start up Thiller, climb across to 'Bite The Hand That Feeds' and to the chains.

Don't concentrate on the anchor's or you will miss all the heavenly glory. Only a fool spends his time attempting to see into the future rather than see into the present.

Direct Start into Street Fighter. V10 if your 6 and a half feet tall. Harder if shorter.

White Trash into Tramp Stamp via the project bolts.Then just keep on trucking. Slightly harder version of Tramp Stamp original.

Fred's finest linkup. Given 33 but settled at 32 after repeats? Start as for 36, then through Stugang Extension crux then climb the holds just right of circus street linking back to the end of the cave.

Mat Eaton's futuristic Line. One of the king lines of Coolum; it follows the line of ring bolts then climbs into the cave to the lower off anchors.

As for Cl but keep going straight up via very reachy moves.

Start: Start as for CL.

Line of bolts right of Kung Fu Muscle and left of The Last Ninja. A unique route for the mountains, bouldery and sustained hard pockets. A visionary bolting effort by Scotty B and inspired siege by Logan.

Relatively easy climbing to a desperate boulder problem crux (~V9). Most of the recent ascentionists use a different (easier) crux sequence to the original ascentionists and the grade might be coming down soon.

Climb up the start of the arch. Break left to gain small corner system. Crazy shouldery stemming to reach the jug out L. Traverse R on edges to a good rest then to the belay past some funky moves. One hell of a good route.

Start at offwidth/chimney and head steeply right

Links Space Invader in to Storm Trooper, a very sustained piece of climbing.

Start up Brain Haemorrhage to roof and head left to join Bloodline. Quite a few dynamic moves heading left up via the obvious left leaning ramp.

You'll arrive with your feet on Bloodline ledge. Suck in the oxygen and finish up Bloodline.

Note... You might be tempted to stay low avoiding the classic ramp (crux). If this is the case, give yourself a 29 tick.

Wormhole Search into Nirvanoxyne.

Was previously known as 'Motor Finance Wizard project'. Start up Thriller boulder, but instead of cutting left into Evil at the ledge, head right and up the blankish face. Huge throws on slopey holds guard the crux. The top is exciting and ever so pumpy.

The RH finish to 'Le Petit Mort'. Keep on truckin' up the steep headwall after doind most of LPM. Some people start up Chasin' the 'Shadow' instead, but they are silly.

Buckle up for adventure. First 2 bolts of Green Grass then left and up to intersect The Milkbar on left side of big roof. Climb to left of big flake and crux then over to finish as for Lord Elphinstone.

Start up Tug Boat then move R into Point Break/Microwave. Roman

The best bits of White Ladder. Historic, the first 32 climbed in Australia by an Australian.

Daniel Fisher

Rose Weller

Named after the route stole the Kim’s front teeth while he was bolting it. Start at the end of the fixed walking rope. Climb up past 3 tricky boulder problems. A good one.

Even better than the original line!! The direct start of Kneebar. Extremely bouldery and powerful compression climbing which will make you beg for mercy!

Climb Plumbus and keep trucking left into the hard end crux of astrobatics.

4m R of Evil Wears No Pants. Futuristic. Two hard boulder problems to classic upper wall. Finishes at anchor on right shared with Gladiator.

Looks like a pissy little link up but it was actually done before Aging 'Gigolo'.

Start: Start as for 'The Floating Cloud'

Looks like a pissy little link up but it was actually done before Aging Gigolo.

Start up The Floating Cloud then move left into Aging Gigolo.

The original line. From Meet The G anchors, climb around rooflet onto upper face to high anchor.

Climb the Tooth Fairy until the big hanging flake at half hight and then break out L past a bit of a kung fu pinch move. Powerful crux section.

5m L of X-Men up obscene steepness. Just awesome.

Adds an additional 5m of perfect climbing to the start of MP, start as for the sub zero boulder problem and continue into MP.

Start as for Frosty and at 3rd bolt move leftwards towards the small cave directly under the roof, blast directly through roof.

Go from UFO all the way through to bring back the kneebar. Insane bouldering.

Prepare to be dominated. Climb Miss Sixty to last bolt, then grapple the overlap diagonally R passing another 5 FH’s to shared anchor of next route. Absolute beast of a pitch. Super good.

One of the hardest routes in the Grampians. Sustained. Often mistakenly called Samosa, but the naming theme is Nicaraguan revolutionaries not pastries!

Fantastic rock and sustained. 12 bolts on the white wall.

A variant finish to Tiger Snatch. Instead of heading left under the final roof, head right to finish up Beta Vinyl.

Bit of a debate about the grade, seems 32/33!! Start as for Frosty, at the major break where frosty continues upwards, veer left via some awesome bouldery moves.

Very bouldery crux section involving a long series of painful pockets.

Start: Ringbolted route 3m right of 'Chinese Water Torture'. Establish in 2001, an ascent by German hardman Andy Hofman grade 8a - 8c as not sure on Aussie grades! Recent ascentionists suggest 32 after repeated attemps by some very strong climbers.

Another great line envisioned by Giles Bradbury who first climbed it at 28M1. It has seen very few (2?!) free ascents.

As for either WT or SITW. If beginning up WT, trend leftwards to join the traverse on Skin to Skin, get your ass up to the cave at the chain on top of SITW. From here wind the biceps up and punch out along the roof flake until a chain anchor around the lip. Could be the best roof climb in Australia. Awesome!!!

Lee Cossey generously gave this route to a visiting Frenchman who had become rather enamoured with it. Departs Green Grass after its crux and heads straight up and through a series of roofs and beyond. Finish at the chains for Zigzagonal. Lee Tom

Start as for Mr Meaner for 3 bolts then move a bit L. Sustained crimping for about 10m of independent climbing, eventually joining the top flake of Mr Magoo. Continue into Super Goo to the top of the cliff.

3 incredibly powerful moves. A poxy route - or a great boulder problem? Was briefly the hardest route in the country at grade 33. Now considered to be a V10 boulder problem on a rope.

Route name changed at the request of the first ascentionist.

climb the first 2 bolts of narcosis, then bust right to the lip of slip, slop, slap. clip the bolt and finish up slip slop slap!! great fun!

Start: as for narcosis

Batman or make yourself a Bachar ladder to reach the start. Then up a couple of the ladder rungs to get into the proper rock. Blast straight up and up and up to get yourself under the high bulge. Some tricky moves manoeuvring around the bulge then out left through the roof to turn the lip and climb the last few meters up the slab to high anchor. May be easier?

A fun and pumpy route with good holds following a boney start. Follow the first 8 bolts of Schweinebaumeln then step left following a short flake to end beneath the main roof.

Start up Sunshine then bust left under Plastic Exploding, traverse left and up and finish at the anchors of Spermies.

A link up. From the anchors of Snake Flake, traverse left into the top half of Groove Train via one bolt.

Start on 'ankles away' then head right through multiple roofs to a ledge before the unique 'bowl' crux and final roof. Wait for a dry spell and take some long slings.

Mostly easy first half leads to a dyno out the lower roof (requires a long sling or 2), clip a hidden chain, then up the sustained second half with a difficult sequence in the upper roof. Best cleaned by reversing to the first anchor.

Same first move as Brown Badge, then head right to finish all the way up ANS. Originally bolted by Rob Lebreton

The really obvious and desperate looking arete that overhangs the boulders, just left of Caribbean Beat Master. Overhangs at least 30 degrees - its much steeper than it looks in the topo.

Next level effort! The extension to Transcontinental, climb that route and keep cranking.

Exiting the corner of Tekken to join Balance of Evil via. a two move V9 boulder problem.

Closed Project atmo.

Second Pitch to Mirage. Quentin approached from Seventh Pillar LHV via Snake in the Grass. More like 33 according to Alex Megos.

A reachy start with a brutal boulder sequence through the roof, guards 20 meters of amazing jugs to the finish.

An excellent route that offers consistently difficult climbing in between large jugs!! Mandatory climbing at grade 26 in between the top 4 bolts, culminating in an all out dyno at the 2nd to last move, cementing the route's classical status and guaranteeing an exciting crux. 20 meters right of Phil's project, at the base of the wall's obvious flake system. Batman start

One for the bone crushers. Not sure if it's been done since a hold was broken off many moons ago. Great looking line on great rock!

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/new-31-at-bobs-hollow/

Start as for Rhythm Method but follow the right hand line of rings up the wall after 4m. Rhythm And Stealth is a rad boulder problem on top of another boulder problem with chunky moves and fingery holds. Quite a nice solid number if the weather is not so good but jugs in the cold.

The blank looking beautiful buttress left of Chinese Algebra

As for Heatseeker to the first crux above the obvious break. From here break left and follow the slopers, pinches, crimps and jugs. Oh, and pockets!! Up the awesome baked red wall that only red ledge offers.