Showing all 77 routes.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | Crag | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
V12/13 | ★★★ Deep Blue Sea
Crazy roof right on the waters edge of the ocean. Start from two good crimps at the back of the cave, followed by 8 hard moves in a roof to a cool headwall and top out to the right. First boulder of the grade sent by an Australian woman - Amy Fenton in 2017. Amy suggested a downgrade, saying "The consensus probably sits at a slash grade (V12/13) but I am definitely no authority. Before Deep Blue Sea my hardest tick was V10 so the idea of skipping two grades and going straight to V13 didn’t sit right with me." Aurel Gelot | Travis Bettison | Mattias Braach-Maksvytis | Amy Fenton | Sam Farrar FA: Chris Webb Parsons, 2008 | Black Cave | |||
V13 | ★★★ Ammagamma
Originally put up as 'Ummagumma' (also at V13) starting in the 3-finger pocket - Klem added the first (hard) move a week later. Previously V14 until Nicole repeated it in a single day. FA: Klem Loskot, 1999 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | |||
V13 | ★★ J1
An awesome testpiece from Saxon. Has seen very few repeats. Very small and painful holds and a tricky tricky exit. FA: Saxon Johns | Jessicca's | |||
V13 | ★★★ Gandalf the Grey
Awesome moves starting as a sds back in the cave traversing through all three layers of granite, out, around and then up to top out. FA: James Scarborough, 2002 | 3m | Mt Yarrowyck | ||
V13 | ★★★ Madball Sit-start
Sit start to Madball - FA Klem Loskot 1999. Originally graded 8a+/V12 but later upgraded to 8b/v13 by Klem. Lots of sequences now exist. | 3m | Norton Summit | ||
V13 | ★★★ SleepyMan
Link 'Sleepy Hollow' into Cave Girl FA: Dai Koyamada, 2000 | Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | |||
V12/13 | ★★★ Finding Max | 5m | Copper Rocks | ||
V13 | ★★★ Mana
| Iskra Crag | |||
V13 | ★★ CaveRave
Klem Loskot's piece de resistance - Climb all of Cave Man and keep going into the crux of Dead Can't Dance, and finish up 'Rave Heart'. FA: Klem Loskot, 1999 | Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | |||
V13 | ★★★ Eman's Punt
Crouch start on right hand incut crimp and left hand terrible sidepull. Hard move into start of Matty's Dyno to finish as for that problem FA: Emmanuel Madayag, 30 Dec | 3m | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
34/35 | ★★ The Seam
Start slightly left of Knifey Spooney. The fainted crack feature on that compact wall. This line link into the crux of Spoonman. Probably the hardest climb in Queensland at the moment. Set: Frey Yule, 2010 & Radest, 2013 FFA: Sam Bowman, 11 Aug 2019 | 20m, 10 | Mt Coolum | ||
V12/13 | ★★★ The Mono Proj
Guess this needs a new name. Low start on the first of the monos and the obvious incut edge, with a pretty crucial toehook. Climb straight through the roof for a few moves before finishing up The V7. One of QLD's new hardest boulders. FA: Sam Bowman, 22 May 2020 | Terrors Creek | |||
V13 | Cherry Picking
| Victoria Range | |||
V13 | ★★★ Academic Revision
Start about 3m to the right of "Room with a View" matched on jug at back of cave and climb virtually directly out of the roof, towards the same finish jug as "Room with a view" continue left topping out as for "Room with a better view" FA: Michael Tonon, 5 Apr 2016 | Blackwall | |||
V13 | Rule number 1
| Victoria Range | |||
V13 | ★★ Water Under the Bridge
As for 'Deep Blue Sea', once at the lip finish up 'Cruel Sea' Dylan Soin FA: Dylan Soin, Aug 2021 | Black Cave | |||
35 | ★★★ Schweinebaumeln
"Dangle pigs". Australia's 2nd 35. Formerly a Lee Cossey project, generously gifted to Alex to keep him occupied. Starts just shy of the wall splitting arete 15m right of Ristretto. Tends rightward to breach the main roof close to its right hand end, and up wall above. Set: Lee Cossey FFA: Alex Megos, 10 Apr 2015 | 35m | Blue Mountains | ||
V13/14 | ★★★ Deliverance Project
Low start with obvious low flakes (low left hand sidepull and right hand under the roof) and left toe. Hard starting move up to the diagonal flake and then up to jug rail to topout on the slab. The pedestal supporting the rock is out. Estimated 13/14? Has been done from one move in (starting with right hand gaston on the flake) clocks in at ~V10/11 Has also been done in two overlapping halves from the start (T Farrell 2023) | 8m | Albany | ||
V13 | Healing Hands
Stand Start - Classic FA: Sam Edwards | Oatlands | |||
36 | Wheelchair
Starts as for the Wheel of Life, but halfway through Sleepy Hollow traverses into Stimulation and climbs the whole of Stimulation (with the exception of the first move) till its end, which is also the finish of Silverchair – hence Wheelchair. FFA: Alex Megos, 2013 | Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | |||
V13 | ★★★ The Sanctuary
Reverse Rodeo Clown to the start of Anger Management, get a decent rest and the finish as per Anger Management. Fun Power Endurance. Could be V12. 8b+/c Route FA: R. Hofmann, 16 Apr 2020 | Wedderburn Cave | |||
V13 | Stuck South of the Border
| Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | |||
V13 | ★★★ Academic Analysis
Climb "Academic Revision" through to the finish of "Room with a view" traverse right through some crimps to the obvious flat ledge of "Sinusoidal" and head directly up the slab, with some spooky feet to top out. FA: Tom Hodgson | Blackwall | |||
35 | ★★★ Kitten Mittens
Start 8m right of Beta Vinyl, 3m L of Tiger Snatch. Heads straight up, passing through the left end of the low horizontal break of Velvet project / Tiger Snatch. Then heads straight up to Sitting Bull's final break. Finish as for Sue's Last Ride. FA: 10 Nov 2016 | 30m | Blue Mountains | ||
V13 | ★★★ Dead Wrong
Sit start on the big undercling below the start of crooks and castles and heads straight up to finish on good block 1 m from top of cave. FA: Sam Bowman | Mt May | |||
V13 | ★★★ Zeus (Boulder)
The creme de la creme. Sit start on crimp, punch up then across right and up a series of shallow pockets via a rad cross move, finishing on jug under the bolt. FA: Sam Edwards | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | |||
V13 | ★★★ Two Hands
Starts near fallen block on undercling for right hand and sloper for left, big dynamic move over block to sloper then up through edges in cave and top out as for everest. Repeated 1/5/05 by Sharik Walker FA: Joe Hodgson, 2003 | 4m | Bonnet Bay (Bouldering) | ||
V12/13 | ★★ Moonchild Project
Sit start with left hand on the half pad crimp rail and right on the nothing pinch, shoot up to the variety of crimps and the puzzle get's real! Potentially much harder than the estimated grade | 4m | Cedar Creek | ||
V13 | X-Treme link
Links X-Treme Cool into The big flake link FA: Dai Koyamada, 2000 | Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | |||
V11 - 13 | Witness the Brittleness (Possible Regrade Project)
Possibly lives up to the name. It would appear that holds have broken since Brad S and Nick W first documented this boulder. A powerful, aggressive crimp boulder that needs a repeat to reconfirm the grade. Would appear at least V11. Sit Start on good two finger side pull and crimp. Hard first moves left into small crimps, then finish as for ‘Kiss My Witness’. Brad S and Nick W (Pictures on StrandedClimbers.Blogspot.com.au) | Terrors Creek | |||
V13 | Rootarted
| Victoria Range | |||
V13 | ★★★ Worm
Start one hand under the roof on the decent undercut and one hand with the hold on the lip, traverse left and finish up "Joe, Joe Dynamo". Originally started under the roof with 2 undercuts which is now broken, starting one move higher brings the grade down from the original v14. FA: Chris Webb-Parsons, 2006 | 4m | Nowra | ||
V13 | ★★★ Genesis
Start on the big flake jug and make a very tough move up using the tiny crimp. A heel thrown onto the rail of 'Sushi Train' appears to help. FA: D.Kellerman, 2000 | Killarney Heights | |||
35 | The Red Line
Australia's first 35 (albeit noting the question of how to grade Wheel of Life). An open project for over a decade. Alex took about 20 shots to send it, not long after he'd onsighted 9a at Siurana. Ascents
Set: Garth Miller & lee cossey, 1999 FA: Alex Megos, 2013 | 18m | Blue Mountains | ||
V13 | ★★★ On the Beach
Sit start on hueco. FA: Dave Graham | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | |||
V13/14 | ★★★ Catalyst
"9 moves all up. Hard to grade." Mushi Brain finishing up Genesis FA: Chris Webb Parsons, 2007 | Killarney Heights | |||
V13 | UnderSiege
Links X-Treme Cool into 'Sleepy Hollow'. First ascent spread over 12 days. FA: Sharik Walker, 2000 | Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | |||
V13 | ★★★ And the Ass Saw the Angel
Sit-starts at bottom of dihedral and climbs to top of dihedral finish at juggy 2 finger and cod-mouth jug over lip - easier since a new foot sequence was discovered, compared to original crux-pounce that Tom did Sam Healy FA: & Tom O'Halloran, 2013 | Blue Mountains | |||
35 | ★★★ Baker's Dozen
Rumour is it's pretty hard. Direct start to Mono No Aware. The first 35 to be sent by an Australian (albeit noting the question of how to grade Wheel of Life). Tom Set: Nov 2014 FA: Jul 2016 | 25m | Blue Mountains | ||
V13 | ★★ Lost For Life Low Start
FFA: Dai Koyamada | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | |||
V13 | ★★ Motorhead
Stand start on the undercling. Move up using the sidepulls and a lack of footholds to reach the victory jug and to top out. FA: Elijah Mercado, 16 Jun 2020 | 5m | Forestville | ||
V13 | ★★★ The Vanishing Point
Start on the flake at the back of the roof, 1m behind the large jug. Out to lip. Originally given V14 but downgraded after a quick repeat. FA: Tyson Atwell | Oatlands | |||
V13 | ★★ The Sandman
Sit start and out the steep wall heading left to top out through the ‘skylight’ hole up high on the left. FA: James Scarborough | Bungonia Gorge | |||
V13/14 | ★★★ Necessary Evolution
Reverse Rodeo Clown into Yo Mama (Anger Management exiting Persistence) Some decent power endurance! Easy V14? 8c/+ Route FA: R. Hofmann, 19 Jun 2020 | Wedderburn Cave | |||
V13 | ★★ Dick Snot
8 move cliff, no top out. FA: Paul "Punk" Westwood, 2001 | Victoria Range | |||
V13 | ★★★ Academic Advancement
Links Academic Revision into Dr Bob top out. FA: Sam Healy | Blackwall | |||
V13 | ★★ Shaved
Sit start out steep wall to the slab top out. FA: Al Pryce | Bungonia Gorge | |||
V13 | Substance of Everything | The Balkans | |||
V11 - 13 | Quarter Pounder Low Project
The low start to quarter pounder - project. | 3m | Brady's Lookout | ||
V13 | The Manhattan Project
FA: Sharik Walker | Killarney Heights | |||
36 | Hump of Trouble
Start as for Sack of Woe, then left to very steep prow. Joins the last moves of Up Jumped the Devil. FA: Tom O'Halloran, Aug 2023 | 10m | Blue Mountains | ||
V13 | ★★★ La Lunga Oscura Pausa Caffè Dell'anima
30 moves following the obvious line in roof. Up there with the bests of Sydney. FA: Dadevi Corà, 2019 | 3m | Bronte Beach | ||
V13 | Sugoi
Links 'Mushi Brain' into start of 'Abacus'. Sugoi is a word that's typically used when you're left awestruck out of excitement or feel overwhelmed. It can also be used to express that something is terrible or dreadful. FA: Chris Webb Parsons, 2007 | Killarney Heights | |||
V11 - 13 | Good Pud Project
Sit start with two opposing vertical holds, head left via big move and finish via arete | 3m | Brady's Lookout | ||
V13 | The Scorpion King
The very dangerous problem just right of 'Butthole Surfer' and climbing out to the obvious pockets on the overhanging face above and bad landing (the drop off the terrace). FA: Gerard Bergmann, 2002 | Mt Stapylton Campground | |||
36 | Hartkäse
FA: Ryan Sklenica, Aug 2023 | Nowra | |||
34/35 | ★★★ The Full Seam (project) | 18m, 11 | Mt Coolum | ||
V13 | Genius
Start 'Abacus' finish 'Genesis'. FA: Chris Webb Parsons, 2008 | Killarney Heights | |||
V12 - 14 | Extended Edition - Project
Stand start on bad angled edges below the start for Sideshow and Main Event. Head right via gastons and sidepulls to gain gain the lip and finish as for Sideshow | 6m | Brady's Lookout | ||
V9 - 13 | Project Shoulder
Start same as Project Slap but after establishing the slopey crimp, traverse out left on tiny crimps and knobs to the arete and mantle to topout. | 5m | St Helens Point | ||
V12/13 | HARD project
Grade's a guess. Send it and tell us. | 8m | Binalong | ||
V13 | ★★★ From Dust Till Dawn
Start at the big Hueco at the back right hand side of the cave. Climb diagonally left joining Persistence after about 12+ moves, finishing as per this. Long and pumpy!! FA: R. Hofmann, 25 Jul 2017 | Wedderburn Cave | |||
V13 | Logical Progression
Extension to 'Abacus'. Need some spotters and mats for this one, its high and dynamic moves above your spotters heads. FA: Chris Webb Parsons, 2008 | Killarney Heights | |||
V10 - 13 | Gin N Juice - Project
Hard technical climbing in a steep open corner | 3m | Distillery Creek | ||
V13 | Boredom
| Victoria Range | |||
V13 | ★★★ Welcome to Valhalla
Sit-Start at the Letterbox Slot on the right hand entrance of the cave just before the end of Rodeo Clown. Reverse Rodeo Clown, into Persistence and finishing as for Anger Management. A fair bit of climbing involved. Could be V12? 8b+/c Route FA: R. Hofmann, 25 Sep 2019 | Wedderburn Cave | |||
V10 - 13 | Open Project
The clean overhanging face to the left of ‘Sudoku.’ | Launceston (Cataract) Gorge | |||
V13 | ★★ Sultan of Swing
FA: Alex Megos | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | |||
V13 | ★★ Gravity
one of SEWQ's hardest lines, sit start. Detached left boulder is out. FA: sam bowman, 28 Jun 2020 | Passchendaele State Forest | |||
V13 | Pigeon Superstition
FFA: Nalle Hukkataival, 2011 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | |||
35 | Sams mega proj
Do esoteric panties/evil agenda to the crux of esoteric agenda and then break left for a very hard 3 extra bolts of climbing until you reach sideways rains anchor. The future. | Mt Coolum | |||
V12/13 | ★★★ Sweet Hot Contrivances
Start as 'The Sweetest Contrivances' then traverse left through the overhang to link into 'Drop It Like It's Hot'. Pumpy and hard. https://youtu.be/pwsiUx_U2mg?t=126 FA: Tom O'Halloran, 5 Jun 2022 | 7m | Copper Rocks | ||
V13 | Fade to Black
Hang Start on the horrendous pinches, slap up to slopers and traverse right to jug as for Kung Fu Fighting. FA: Sam Edwards | 4m | Oatlands | ||
V12 - 14 | The Wheel of Mt Randall Project
Start with There Will Be Blood, but instead of topping out use the edges on problem #39 to come across to The Katana and finish on The Katana. A long endurance test piece that will certainly be a hard link up. Adds in a hard crux of coming down of the starting edge of #39 to the start of The Katana. Could probably shake out stemming between the Katana and Blood boulders... Contrived... Set: Clinton Martinengo | Midgegoroo National Park | |||
V12/13 | ★★ Only the Lonely
Sit start LH undercling in the middle of the hueco and RH sidepull. Do a few hard moves up and left to gain the ledge and topout. Bloody Classic. Cheers JH for the vision. FA: Mattias Braach-Maksvytis, Aug 2020 | Bangor West | |||
V13 | Pretty Hate Machine
Links Cave Bitch into Dead Can't Dance, finishing as for 'Rave Heart' FA: Matt Wrigley, 2000 | Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | |||
V13 | The Bear and the Piano
Start on the left hand sidepull and right hand crimp. FA: Tom O'Halloran, May 2022 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre |
Showing all 77 routes.