Routes in Australia for selected grade

On the lower tier below the roof boulder are some good features for warming up. Problems from V0-V5ish. About 6 or 7 problems from memory...

has not been bolted yet 3mt right of CW under the tree

has not been bolted yet. right side of big cave

Very easy start for first 5m (14) and last 6m is overhung with big pockets and a crack. It can be done directly (tape your hands) (23) or layback from crack (19).

Project on the Arete just right of "Bad News".

Highball, straight up the middle of the face, bit of a dodgy landing with the purple boulder underneath.

Sit start on the pedestal. Up via small edges

Starting on the horn on the outside procede under arch and then out through the hole.

As twins left but exit right.

Starting in undercling jug under hole move through jugs and exit left.

Start in the little alcove and come out onto the face via a long reach to the right into flake on face.

A linking traverse around the boulder. Begin with the sit start on"geodude", traverse across the ocean face, around the corner, across the lip of the overhanging face. Top out on the stepped down section on the far side

Up the high slab. Also probably the way down?

Starting on the large rails in the middle of the overhang with the left hand on the lower one and right on the higher, move up and right along the rail before going up to the lip. Involves a fun dead point move to get out from under the boulder

Well featured wall to warm up on. About 6 problems V0-V3 across the face.

The left crack, two metres right of STEB. This climb ascends a pair of cracks in a wall, crossing from the right crack to the left at the start and back to the right crack at the top.

(1) Up criss-crossing like a mad man.

Commence at base of slab. Straight up the blunt arete split by a thin crack with increasing difficulty.

The punchy little access route to the top caves, and a good warm-up in itself. This was the first route climbed at Rockford. Up and slightly left through bulgy slopers to crux move getting to ledge. Double ringbolt belay on ledge.

Old top rope problem. Kelly Hansen holds the honor of having first top rope ascent of this little beastie.Up crack to lip then crimp hard onto very thin face. Tenuous and balancy moves under right leaning Flake to thank f*#K jug. 2BR, 3BB.

Open project. Up the obvious crackline in the boulder.

This route links the start of Ernest in Africa into the top of Chase the Lady. High first bolt, can be accessed along the ledge from Madge.

3/4/94

Direct start to Get Smart.

The small seam + crack, hidden behind the large outcrop. Great moves with good pro, climbs even better than it looks.

Climb the middle of the face to the right of HYB past an ancient rust-mark that used to be a bolt. Bold climbing off the ground. Trad anchor.

A route surrounded by controversy as to whether it constituted a retro bolting of the top half of "Woo Woo Woo". The retrobolted section of woo woo woo was chopped, making runnel of love obsolete. The remaining bolts shouldn't be trusted. A good one to top rope! Still some very interesting insights into climbing ethics:

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/five-new-pitches-at-gibraltar-rock/ https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/new-route-at-peak-head/

"Excellent face climbing on thin edges. Start 4m left of the Lizard of Oz at the base of the large tapered runnel at the left end of the west face. Climb the left edge of runnel past nine bolts (fixed hangers) to a dbb. Tim Ball and Ryan ?? Oct 2012"

Beafy power climb. Sharp.

Climbs the face and blunt arete straight up the middle of the pinnacle. Thin and sustained.

Climbs the grey and orange wall to finish up the closed flake at the top. Locate the first carrot bolt just over a slabby bulge to start. Climb up past a second carrot then small cams in pockets to a minor ledge and the first ring bolt (avoid the potentially loose block on the left here). Climb up into the orange rock past rings and cam placements, then up the flake to the loweroffs. Take bolt plates, cams including #0.4, #0.5, #0.75 and #3 Camalots, and a couple of extendable runners. Five ring bolts in total.

This has been climbed. Starts approx 5m right of DRP at corner. needs a good clean. Would recommend staying of untill it has been cleaned.

Share 3 RB of Sexsion Conexsion then traverse right to One Way Ally RB and up to horizontal crack and traverse to Supercharged RB and straight up to anchors.

Up the L tending crack R of FT. Up to bolt, then smear like a demon through the crux. Continue up line to DBB.

SDS on pedestal with hands on the broken shelf. Up right to small ledge, match and top out left using only the offwidth. Feet aren't allowed on the starting shelf. Named for the sexy-type bikini shoot happening at time of FA.

Sit start on crimps, then into the under clings then straight up to the top.

Sit start on jugs up through the slopers into the vertical crack and top out.

Start on the right. Traverse left on good rail. Tricky top.

Lovely compression climb just left of #17.

same start as the left side but head to the right side of the nose after coming out from the underneath the boulder

Start just above Lissoo's sit start and work your way 360 around the boulder for a pumpy finish.

As before, but halfway up swing over left and top out on the other side of the crack.

Just behind, a little hidden by the Jungle Gym Boulder. Get nice and deep into the large round crack and sit start with both hands on the hidden jug on the right. Feet off the large rocks on the ground!

Start left, head up the underside right. Spicy!

Stand Start with LH on 'Starboard's' RH and Rh on smaller edge in break. Move up to small intermediate crimp then to big flat jug and top out.

Sit start as for Poole Cleaner, Make a big move with LH to a small crimp then throw RH to good slopers at the top and top out.

Sit Start on good edge and sidepull. Head straight up to big break, head right and up the arete to find some good slopers, or head straight up the face for some harder crimping, the choice is yours.

Sit start as for 'Step Ladder' or Crouch start on massive jug sidepull. Move up to opposing jug side pull then dyno to the top and mantle out.

Sit start at the bottom of the crack, quest upwards and mantle. Large pads help. Great fun!

Sit start matched on giant flake, out to 3 finger pocket, up and mantle.

Sit start. Route follows thick white quartz veins right side of slab. Try to use only the veins for holds

From the flake move up, then right or left to finish.

This problem will stretch you out as you start out reaching for the crimps and high feet. Trusting your feet will allow you to reach up to even worse holds to mantle.

LH pinch on sidepull.

Start central seated, into layback out right to top (V1 ways of doing climb if starting higher, V2 from low edges)

Start on right side of slot rail, move left and make the big move to a good edge. Watch out for the choss block near the top.

Sit start lowball matched on rail and two low spread feet. Gaston up to vert rail and then work to lip for topout.

Traverse left to right, topping out after corner. Start low on sideways edge and square foot crystal. Boulder is just up from TL.

Sit start on good blocky jugs in low mini corner. Move up series of obvious blocky features before moving onto the slab, heading up and left to a high but good edge on slab. Very nice but easy climbing on good holds.

Sit start at arete and move through good holds up and R. Top out high

Sit start mini layback, head up into thumb press and pop to edge pinch. Gain lip and topout.

These climbs are located on the 2nd wall to the right of MM & CM.

Left hand on good undercling. Right hand out wide for sidepull. Feet kinda pinching on low vertical edge. Straight up.

Stand start with right hand on good sloper and left hand on side pull crimp. Match feet on the little edge. Grovel to victory

Sit start matched on high crimp, traverse right staying below the lip. Mantle at highest point.

The ledge the boulder is perched on is not in. Sit start matched on rail.

Tiny outcrop of rock on the left, easily walked past when approaching the boulders 'proper'. Sit start, balancy rock left to the crack and up. Surprisingly good for the size of the bloc.

Stand start wide compression. Rh low on flat pinch jug. LH on obvious sidepull. Fun dynamic movement

Stand start with high slopey holds. Up and left.

Oliver Rickford

Stand start on edge on the left. Move rightwards then up the face.

Sit start the lowball arete.

Sit start with left hand on arete, and low right hand. Low foot under the roof and right heel. https://youtu.be/aoQ46s61esg?t=35

Sit start matched on obvious jug. Up the arete. A bit awkward.

Sit start and up with good holds.

Sit start with the flake. Up to the obvious large pocket jug and up.

Sit start and up. Awkward.

Stand start and up the face.

Sit start on flat slopey rail and up.

High traverse right along the jug flake then up and diagonally right with good holds

Stand start with obvious flake. Up then left onto the slab to finish as for 'Propulsion'.

Sit start with underclings and up.

Stand start with positive rail in the middle of the face and up. A little scary.

Stand start with underclings. Up the finger crack. Awesome. https://youtu.be/v7zqhY87WB0?t=12

Sit start. Up the parallel cracks and topout directly for the full value line. Escape left has also been done.

Sit start. Up the corner with interesting moves.

Sit start the crack and up. Sharp but fun.

Sit start with very low right hand juggy sidepull and left hand flat edge and up.

Sit start and up. Fun but chossy