Routes as trad in Melbourne and Surrounds

Scary for the grade. The L leading line 6m R of LBW. The line to the halfway ledges. Straight up the the flakes, and past these with caution and dubious protection to a large ledge.

Left hands in Steps, R to ledge then up slab between Steps and HMGS

There is a large boulder half way between Thingamejug and Elephant Rock. Climb the NW corner on sandy rock with no pro.

Traverse R from Spilt Blood to Boulderdash, staying low

Straight up to high point. No Pro

Start directly below the second leg of the dog leg crack and go up.

The right side of the steep face of the small block...

Start 5m right uphill of Weeds. Up to ledge then face to horizontal and capstone

Digital's 2d pitch until BR at top of Quartz Route. Keep going R across slab to Afternoons DF BR and then as for end of One of these Nights

Straight up from low point of slab, past crack and up steeper section. No Pro.

1m L of R arête of N face of Uphill buttress. R of Crack on big holds

Slab between overhand and corner on R hand side of East Face

Technical. Up face to next break in overhang 2m R of FSAFL. Up L past BR to crack in lip. Up to ledge.

next wide crackwith nice moves through first steepness

Climb the hanging arete on its left-hand side. Start independently right of WTWGW up the blunt front face of the arete. Crux is gaining the hanging arete from the left. Solo after top rope.

Halfway along the edge tackle the bulging overhang on it's right.

Attractive jamming. Start just R of Wet Dreams. Climb the crack R wards to a ledge. Jam the crack above and finish up the ridge.

Nose 12m right of Aging Gracefully.

The opposite side of To Bridge, R of RO. Bridge then crack.

100 m W of TA is a boulder with three large steps on it's Sth side. Climb these past the rushes in a crack near top.

30m L of Obelix. Under overhang to FH. R along break to lip. Slab to R tree.

( There is a buttress below the Amphitheatre with the next 4 climbs )

On the left side of the buttress below and right of Cella. Up and over the prominent flake.

Corner just R of FFA. Solo FA

Arete. BR

1. 40m Climb the direct start the up around the roof as for The Plunge. Instead of moving up and slightly R, move up L to the groove. Follow this and the short jam crack with its continuation to the ledge.

2. 25m Straight up

The attractive arete above the shallow pool 3m right of Hazy Monkey. Beware dangerous loose blocks near the top, as of January 2020.

Located in the gully several metres right of Myth of Tomorrow. Takes the face and rounded arete past a couple of carrots. Trad / rusty carrot belay, walk off. FA unknown

The location of the this route is a bit of a guess. The dead gum probably fell down years ago and there are no conifers on the range, except in the plantation. It may be on the scrappy grey rock just before Windemere Wall.

Halkway down the cliffline from Free Standing is a dead gum tree, 7m from the bottom on a ledge. A small conifer grows above this on the top of the cliff. (There is a dead gum 7m out from the bootom of the cliff) To the R is a smooth grey wall and corner. Jam up the crack and through the overhangs to the top.

Everyone has to take it someday. This route introduced wall climbing to the Big Cliff. Starts as for the TAM.

1. 25m 16 (crux) Climb TAM to its 1st bolt belay, swing up L around the roof, then up and slightly R to a small stance.

2. 30m Step up and L to an undercut crack which leads to TAM 2nd bolt belay, Finish up TAM

Start using L hand holds of HMGO then straight up.

Approx 10 m L of Lay it on the Lip Line and R of and above Tensor. The short, thin slab.

Corner Left of Spilt Blood. Good Gear.

On the Eastern corner of the downhill side is a nice crack. Up, trending R to seams for a few meters and then straight up.

The nice crack/offwidth 10m right of Hazy Shade Of Winter (1m right of the arête).

9m R of MS. Up diagonally to tree. No Pro

R of H, The face. BB

Starts at the back of the shallow cave on shoddy rock to the right of Pandemic Panic then traverse right out across the roof crack, feet on vertical sand, then straight up the pocketed blunt arête to finish.

Starts from the ledge, just R of the arete. Climb the wall, following a crack line ontothe diagonal ledges. Traverse off R to finish.

A neglected line. Corner on the L of the Candle buttress.

Groove 5m right of Prickles to flake, horizontal. Vertical crack

U R of Appastic Buttress and just before the gully are a couple of obvious cracks. Jam the steep L hand crack, then take the easy corner.

From toe of slab, up vertical crack. Onto ledge and R to cracks. Up

Bulge and arête R of TFTW

The corner at left hand side of East Face

Fun - better than it looks. 'Fridge door' the hard looking roof crack and block on the extreme R of the lower tier, 2m R of GRSS.

Crack 1m right of Rainbow

Stand start just left of Birdsong and climb the left side of the arete into the scoop. Climb the wall above via the diagonal feature. Don't use the vertical crack/tree when gaining the upper wall. Solo after top rope.

Straight up the blankest tallest part of the East side of The Pap without recourse to the corner right or blocky arete left.

Mundane. Starts at the top of Spiral Architect. Clip the Bolt, mantle, then L up the line, go L to the bush. Up the crack.

Arete L of CT, placing gear in Mind Games from Flake, then straight up.

Starts 3m right of the Gymnast where the upper section of rock joins the lower section.

Narrow arête, mossy edge then either up front of tier, down left of line or up left hand side which is harder. Solo FA

LH corner of face

King Neptune is located somewhere in the upper 3/4 of this route. The description is very vague.As described below there is a direct line all the way up the R side of the cliff. Start at the R hand edge of the Big Cliff. This is the R most of 3 crack lines right of Barnacle Bill.

1. 18m 17 (crux) The crack through the buldge and past a bolt at the start of Nostromo.

2. 35m The major crack moving R past a large jammed block to the ledge. Follow the think crack up the short wall to some shaky bollards.

3. 15m The unstable rubbish above.

The slabby narrow wall immediately right of Hazy Monkey.

The name says it all. Start downhill from HSD beneath the obvious roof capping the corner.

1. 15m 16 Follow the L slanting crack past a curious detached knob. Take care with loose rock. belay in the corner.

2. 15m 16 Climb the corner to the roof, then traverse R on awkward, dangerously loose rock.

This route is at the top, or back of the crag. Something to fill in the day while putting off the walk back down. Start in the cave at the rear of the pinnacle immediately north of the Regrettably Lammentable pinnacle. Bridge out of the cave and climb the crack to the top. Abseil needed to get of the pinnacle.

Steep cracks and flakes 3m L of the original line lead up to the roof.

Up R of Spindrift

Start at lowest point of slab and follow line of grassy pockets to quartz seam.

Crack just R of tree.

Approx 2m left of Snap out of it is a series of flakes. Climb these to the arete past 1 Br

No Pro. Slab on L of buttress 25m R of WB

The overhanging line on the L side of S face of the top L boulder. BR. BB

Take the R arete of Antwerp.

1. 20m 16 Crux. Climb the arete to where the crux step L is made to belay on the block on the L face.

2. 10m 10 Move off R as for Antwerp.

Not actually on The Poet. 15m before The Poet in the area marked by the "Fuel Stove Area" there's a narrow crack half hidden behind the tree

Goes where Pirate Pete should've gone. Star as for PP.

1. 25m Go up to the Bolt on PP, and up the middle of the slab (piton) to the earthy ledge below the steep wall (piton). Move R to belay in PP.

2. 30m Traverse back L to the 1st weakness. Superb climbing leads up the slab and corner sysystem., veering R to bushes etc.

3. Up the bushes, loose rock and earth.

Seam 2m right of Eradication to horizontal and capstone

Arete R of FFV. Solo FA

Arete to R of Palisade

Crack 2m right of Next Gen. step Right at horizontal and up next crack.

Start as for WTWGW but at the horizontal break traverse left all the way to finish easily up the wide crack as for TRB. Technical crux is the start.

As for Fink but anything goes.

Corner then face just R of Scales. Small wires recommended.

Its amazing that the summit hasnt fallen off yet. Start on the pinnacle behind and almost directly in line with The Pinnacle Traverse. The pinnacle. Downclimb to get off or abseil.

As for PGBWSII, traversing right to finish.

A minor crack line with no pro on wall opposite Stegophilist.

The deep chimney opposite DFD. Squeeze exit.

Thin crack on Sth of rock